10 degree stems look just fine pointing down. It's what most bikes have.

Well thats exactly what I would expect to here from an Aussie being down under. LOL Of course it looks fine to you.
Seriously, I'll give it a flip this week end and post before and after pics to gather a consensus opinion. Stay tuned

Generally, folks are referring to the bar end of the stem when they say which way the stem points... Are you?

If not, well, it kinda blows aesthetically. Just ordered a 0 degree stem.



I think that's a 6 degree stem too

With no spacers on fork steertube, you are limited to flipped one angle vs another in stem/handlebar height adjustment.
I usually leave at least 30-40mm of extra steertube to allow fine adjustments of stem/handlebar height.

Also, aesthetic may not be compatible with riding comfort or performance.
I adjust my riding position throughout the riding season, early in the season I'm less flexible, need more upright riding position.
As I ride more outdoors, get in better physical shape, more flexible, I adjust my stem/handlebar position accordingly.
Flip the stem or move steertube spacers from below the stem to above the stem.

I didnt have a chance to mess with it today just by flipping the stem into the 10 degree neg or down position from where it is now (see post #6 ) at +10 degrees. I did use a couple of 5mm and 1-10mm spacer below the stem on the fork tube. I think I will probably just try a cheap 0 degree stem for a few miles and see how that works.Btw...I really dig your ride and was wondering what the cost was to build it. I was initially wanting to go with a disc bike aero frame but Im not so sure now.

Thanks, the original frameset purchase (include frame, fork, seatpost, headset, bottom bracket & misc frame hardware) was something around $380 shipped from China, that was back in 2018 AUG or SEP.
I had a bunch of eBay rebates that allowed me to purchase the frameset for less than $200.

The eBay seller sent me the wrong size frame, I was fighting with seller for over a month to get partial refund to keep the wrong sized frame or full refund including return shipping cost.
Ultimately, eBay stepped in and gave me full refund. Since the refund was from eBay, not from the seller, I just kept the smaller sized frame and built it to a complete bike.

The one I finished building recently is the replacement frame from the eBay seller, sent to me free of charge for not leaving him a negative feedback.
Since I have a few sets of high end rim brake, road wheelsets, I just kept building these cheap Chinese carbon frames into complete bikes.

Normally, I would expect a complete built from these frames under $2k. Ride quality is excellent for recreational or century type road riding, but probably not stiff enough for club racing.
I'm 5'10", about 170 lb., not cranking out 700w in sprints if I can avoid it (I have other bikes for that type of riding). My purpose for these builds are just for fun, casual type riding.

Until I wear out the rim brake wheelsets that I already have, not likely that I will build a disc brake carbon road bike, since I already have a titanium disc road bike.

You have a positively gorgeous titanium disc bike.

+1 on Goldie-lochs comment (hehe hey buddy!) I came so close to building a TI cross disc bike last year but I just could'nt afford the bike I wanted to build and shelfed the idea till next year.

I bought that Lynskey (R240 I think) ti disc road frame for under $500 back in 2017, $80 carbon disc fork, $320 carbon disc wheelset, built with misc parts I have in my basement, sort of a zombie apocalypse, do-it-all road bike.

Yeah no chance I could get a TI disc frame for under &1k. When it was all said and done what I had priced out was close to $3k for a bike I would only use part time. I do so much enjoy building I just wish I had the funds to support it. Must be patient!

You gotta ask yourself, what does the T1 frame offer that a less expensive ti frame does not?
Do you really need to have that T1 vs a less expensive ti frame?

IME of owning/riding over 10 different titanium frames in the last 3 decades; there are very subtle difference in ride quality & performance between the most expensive ti vs less expensive ti frame.
But the desire for lightweight, minimal maintenance, no paint to chip or scratch, very little frame care is consistent between the high-end & less expensive ti frames.

BTW, the eBay carbon frameset that I got for free is still available, for $320, but only in 58cm size.. or whichever size the seller send to you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/123688344905

Please .... my wife and I are on good terms today ... don't be telling me that stuff ......

So today Im gonna move the spacers above the the stem to drop my bars down ever so slightly. After meeting with the bike fitter yesterday and getting my saddle back in place he suggested I go in search of a 165mm left crank arm so as to not over extend old "peggy". Anyone have a 165mm Ultegra left crank arm laying around collecting dust in the garage?

Which year Ultegra?

I have 165mm FSA SLK carbon crankset avail.

When I built this bike back in the summer of 2016 I used an Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Groupset 170mm - 50.34t - 11-28 - SS - Grey. I have a leg length discrepancy of 1 and 3/4 inch on my left leg so Im going with a 165mm left crank arm with a 170mm crankset. That why Im looking for just a 165mm left crank arm. I do appreciate the offer though.

I have both 170 & 165mm FSA SLK carbon cranksets avail.

tbh...as long as it will work with my https://wheelsmfg.com/bbrighttm-outb...nks-black.html bottom bracket Id be willing to give it a shot. PM me with perhaps a couple of pics and your asking price including shipping to 20164. Again I want to be clear I intend to use a 165mm left crank arm with a 170mm right side crank.

Some progress with my Chinese TT bike project:

Let there be brakes:







Still trying to figure out a way to have a front derailleur shifter near the brake lever.. but may need to replace the current front brake lever and go with something like:

where would the shifters go normally?

Hi there, could you please provide a link to purchase that wheelset? Could I also please have your impressions, durability, braking performance etc. Thanks alot.

Here's one of many similar eBay listings: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173846721371

Barend shifters at the tip of clip on aero bar.. cable routing is not ideal, especially with all the cables tucked inside the stem.
Also I wouldn't do my shifting of front derailleur from aero tuck position..

Okay, now that I use my brain ... yes I have seen those of TT bikes.

I think i'd want my rear shifter on the aero bar at least .... but whatever works.

Rear shifter is going to be the wireless xshifter.
Xshifter buttons will be at the clipon barend.
Just need to figure out where to put the shifter unit near the rear derailleur.

Had a first test ride on the cheap Chinese TT bike build with Xshifter...

Remote wireless shifting works great, I really wanted to fit the cable pull unit inside the frame, but there isn't a large enough opening on the frame to insert the unit into the frame.
Finishing up with some adjustments after the test ride, will take it out tomorrow to get a decent ride in.