jdishner

I'm working on figuring that out - looking on Sheldon's gear site and trying to get an understanding of how fast each configuration will be, then going to look at cost and performance differences. If it helps I'm in Camden, Maine, rode 19.7 miles today with nearly 2000 ft of elevation, whereas in Illinois I would ride 40+ miles with about 800 ft. Looking for a more balanced gearing that allows me to use more of the big ring, not just climb easier.

phrantic09

FWIW I changed from an 11/28 on a 52/36 a couple of years ago to a bike w/ 50/34 and an 11/34 cassette, I was actually slower climbing with the latter

jdishner

Thanks again - very helpful questions. I don't know yet how fast I'll be riding here, and it doesn't look like there will be many groups in my area, or that many riders at all based on Strava activity. I would typically average about 19.5 and about 90 avg cadence, thats solo and group rides, no races. There's a lot more elevation here so it will be take a while but it will average out, probably between 18-19. There aren't a lot of flat calm conditions in midcoast Maine, but as a group we would be in the mid 20's to upper 20's depending on wind and group.

I think the 48 would be good change, what I really want (which I realized after reading the responses here) is to be able to spend more time in the big ring, and the low end climbing capability will be helpful as well.

jdishner

Interesting. I used to kind of power up the hills in Illinois, never had to sit and spin and endure. Are you riding in hills or mountains? Here the climbs are pretty long and all over the place, and I want to be able to use more gears on the big ring as well as spin faster at lower speeds.

noodle soup

I don't want to be "that guy", but maybe just ride a little more in the area before you try to buy climbing ability. It's never easy to climb hills at first, but you'll get faster.

We used to say "HTFU", but some people get offended by that now.

jdishner

You're absolutely right, and if it wasn't raining/snowing right now I would be going out again tomorrow to try again. I know I will get faster, my form is crap right now, that's my own fault, not the bike's or the gearing. What I did realize though is that I want easier gearing on the big ring primarily, I like to ride on the big ring, but with my set up right now I'm not ever going to be able to use the 56/11 - the downhills that could use that are the backside of mountains and it's fine just tucking and coasting. So that's my primary motivate to change, the slightly easier gearing may help on the big climbs, but easier big ring gears will help for all the inclines that aren't true mountains.

jdishner

Steve in your first post you suggested a 48/31 GRX - but here you say a 48 isn't the solution - does the GRX have different configurations? If I could keep my current rear cassette/ derallieur the same and just get the new crank that might work as well.

HTupolev

If you're riding with people who push a paceline tempo at 25+mph, you might not want to go too low on the top-end, in case someone decides to drill out a huge effort on a shallow descent.

If you're just trying to keep a strong steady solo pace, this probably doesn't matter much at all: how soon you switch from pedaling to tucking-and-coasting on steep stuff isn't a massively important issue. Some people say they can't stand not being able to slow-pedal the downhills, and that's how I feel too when I'm on a bike with a high top-end... but then when I ride a bike with a low top-end, like the 52-14 on my '79 Fuji (which is like if your road bike had a 41-tooth chainring), it doesn't really bother me.

Nearly all 11-speed cassettes start with an 11T cog, so putting a lower gear out back generally means using a wider-spaced cassette. So what this come down to is: how much would you be bothered by a loss of top-end versus by having more widely-spaced gears on the cassette.

xroadcharlie

The 46/30 chainring's are a popular conversation with an 11 -32 cassette, and for good reason. However I like the close ratios of the 11-28 and would not change it, at least not yet. This gives 29 gear inches for climbing some pretty steep hills, a 113 gear inch top gear so you can still hit the downside at dangerous speeds, and can stay in the big chainring longer then a 48t ring.

It's all about tradeoffs. But I think the 46/30 is the best ballance for most folks.

woodcraft

Roadlink is a bit of metal that hangs the RD lower, allowing a bigger cassette to fit, for $20. The other part of the equation is taking up the slack chain on the small/small end.

Road RDs typically would have a short cage- the part with the pulley wheels, newer ones may have mid cage- longer & able to take up the chain for wider gear range, or long cage-

usually found on mtn bikes. GS means the same as mid-cage.


phrantic09 says he was slower with lower gears, & that's understandable- he might have been faster still on a single speed, as you have to turn the pedals fast enough to avoid stalling,

but it's also what you're adapted to. I've had that experience- faster up 18% grades with the 28 than 34, but the price is paid by the end of a long ride.


48/11 gets you to 35 mph at just over 100 rpm, where a good tuck will give more speed than more pedaling (assuming that one is not a monster going over 35 on the flats). 52/11 goes to 37 or 38 mph.

Plus, Eddy Merckx.


IMO, all the fuss about close ratios doesn't amount to much, as the middle & lower end of the cassettes are much the same, but I live in a hilly area, YMMV.

phrantic09

Big hills I guess?? Usually about 500-1k feet of climbing every 10 miles? But on long sustained climbs (20-30m) I was faster on the 11-28 52/36

phrantic09

Don’t buy upgrades. Ride up grades.

DaveSSS 

With a 48/11 top gear, like I have, it takes about 113 rpm to hit 38 mph, so riding in the 25-30 mph range is no problem. You should not be changing gearing to use the big ring more. Only change if your lowest gear is not low enough to get up the steepest climb. Use each ring where it's appropriate. If the 52 and next to largest sprocket is too much gear, then shift to the little ring. That transition speed will probably be about 15 mph. The big ring isn't for climbing.

I ride plenty of 10-12% grades and at my advanced age, a 34/29 was not low enough, so I first changed to the largest sprocket available, which is a 32 for Campy 11. That worked, but I wanted lower, so a year later the 12 speed Chorus 48/32 crank and 11-34 cassette was just what I needed

Steve B.

GRX also comes in a 46/30, but as you stated you want speed, going from a 52 big ring to a 48 or 46 is going to have you spin out earlier. These are as BTW, the Shimano cranks. FSA also makes similar cranks. My Cannondale Topstone came with an FSA 46/30, works just fine with a 105 derailer. An FSA Omega ME is $131 https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/omega-crankset-4659

But really only YOU know what gearing is going to work so for know I'd pay attention to how often you fine yourself in the 52/11, ask if you need that, maybe do a gear chart to plot out the options.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

jdishner

Good call, I've been using the gear calculator and after sleeping on it I think what I'm going to do for now is just change the chainrings, keeping as much of what I have now as possible. I very rarely used the 52/11 even in Illinois, which had long flat roads and big winds. It wasn't that useful then and it certainly isn't useful now, so I'm going to look into just chainrings, and change the crank if necessary. I can always change the cassette etc later if need be.

Steve B.

First step is to verify you can lower the front derailer as it has to be lower to work with smaller rings. Not likely to be a problem, as modern systems since about 9 spd. have been using 50/34 cranks as standard, but never hurts to check. Only older frames where a 53/39 crank and using a braze-on mount had issues.

kingston 

Sounds to me like you need a new chainset. Gearing is pretty personal, but 46/30 is good if you are riding mostly solo rides and don't need to keep up with a group. 46x11 is over 40 mph @130 rpm, which is fast enough for me. I just got an Easton EC90 with a 46/30 to replace a 50/34 on one of my bikes. EA90 is a much cheaper version of the same thing. One nice thing about the Easton crank is that it's very easy to swap rings if you decide you want different gearing.

woodcraft

Don't agree with this, & since that is what 1x is, the powers that be also don't agree.

For other posters suggesting 46t chainring, I have the on the cx bike, & it definitely limits keeping up with a fast group.

AdkMtnMonster

If it’s so hilly that you can’t ride it with a 52/39 and 11/32, well, you’re unlikely to average 18-19 mph with smaller gearing unless you’re just pulling our leg. You’re going to spend a LOT of time on those climbs, and you said there are no flat sections... I’ve been to Maine plenty of times. It’s not the Alps, nor is it the Rockies. Sure, there are some serious grades, and they also go DOWNHILL, too. Keep your taller gearing available for using on the gravity-assisted sections. (On which you will spend far less overall time, but still need to pedal.)

Or HTFU.

Cypress

Radical idea:

Sell your current bike and get a Canyon Endurance CF SL Disc.

What goes up, must come down, and discs are ****** for steep twisty descents. The Endurance comes with a 52/36 x 11/34.

Iride01 

I can't believe I'm suggesting this, but didn't 105 5800 have a triple front DR version? Or was this the previous 10 speed 105's? Since I've been up and down the Maine coastline several times sailing, I know there are some pretty long climbs and maybe a triple would be a better way to adapt the current bike if there isn't room for a new bike.

Of course a triple might be more severe with noise cross chaining. Hopefully those will only be gears needed briefly. Also, the shifer will be an added cost along with other changes.

And in case I missed it, I'm still not certain the OP's bike is 11 on the rear, so I may just be prattling nonsensical stuff. Please don't tell me I always do that...... <grin>

DaveSSS 

I have no clue what you're saying. My post does not mention 1x. Who are the powers that be?

I noticed when I switched to a 48/32 crank that it did increase the time I could spend in the big ring by a small amount, but that was not there purpose for the change. It was to get lower gearing for steep climbs. I went from a 34/32 low gear to a 32/34, which is about 12% lower. I also gained a bit of top gear with the 48/11 instead of a 50/12.

kingston 

There are many reasons for running different gears and they're all valid. The important thing is that we're all getting new bike parts.

abshipp 

I've noticed a similar phenomenon when I ride my fixed gear. Since I'm stuck in 44x17 I just get out of the saddle and stomp my way up rather than shift, sit, and spin.

I fully endorse the idea of going to smaller chainrings. I have a 46/30 on one of my bikes and I more or less treat it as a 1X plus granny. 98% of my time is on the big ring in the middle of the cassette.

Racing Dan

Imo, just stick with your current crank and get a 11-34 cassette, a new chain and GS rear DR. Only if that is not adequate I would replace the crank. As mentioned the GRX line is suitable, but the 48/31 is a bit pricey and requires a GRX front DR as well. 48/11 is plenty for most. The GS rear DR is not an "upgrade", its has a longer cage to accommodate the bigger cassette.