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"Worth" is subjective -- it depends on your preferences and your budget. Hence, no one can tell you whether moving to Di2 is "worth it" for you.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain. But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers. |
To anybody facing this decision, or a similar one: Rent a bike with Di2 (or whatever you're considering) for a day, take it for a long ride. Then make up your mind from personal experience, instead of from asking strangers who have different taste than you. Whatever you decide, you'll feel better about your decision. The knowledge is worth the rental fee.
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Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21391823)
"Worth" is subjective -- it depends on your preferences and your budget. Hence, no one can tell you whether moving to Di2 is "worth it" for you.
For me - and I write this as someone with ample funds and a new-ish Di2 bike -- I would not upgrade an existing bike. While Di2 is nice, and has a few tricks up its sleeve, it doesn't really shift any better than a good, well-maintained mechanical drivetrain. But let's be honest here: If the OP is asking, he's gonna do the upgrade. He's just looking for enablers. |
Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21392233)
Im surprised you find that Di2 is no better a shifting system than mechanical. As I follow the posts above, everybody (including myself) who has Di2 has stated they will not go back to mechanical. The presumption is that it shifts much better as the reason.
I also think that Di2 is inferior to mechanical in at least one scenario: shifting both derailleurs simultaneously, as when going from the large to the small chainring and simultaneously shifting to a smaller cog in order to maintain cadence. In a mechanical system, this is pretty seamless, while Di2 is pretty clunky; using Synchro or Semi-Synchro mode only makes it clunkier, contrary to Shimano's intention. However, I do agree that electronic is the future - I don't see myself buying a new bike without it. It does offer a few little tricks (the auto-trim for the fd, e.g.) and should be forward-compatible with OS updates. |
Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21392244)
If you think that Di2 shifts "much better" than mechanical, then your mechanical drivetrain needs some maintenance.
I also think that Di2 is inferior to mechanical in at least one scenario: shifting both derailleurs simultaneously, as when going from the large to the small chainring and simultaneously shifting to a smaller cog in order to maintain cadence. In a mechanical system, this is pretty seamless, while Di2 is pretty clunky; using Synchro or Semi-Synchro mode only makes it clunkier, contrary to Shimano's intention. However, I do agree that electronic is the future - I don't see myself buying a new bike without it. It does offer a few little tricks (the auto-trim for the fd, e.g.) and should be forward-compatible with OS updates. |
I don't think Di2 shifts a lot better than a good mechanical group. Maybe a little. The auto trim is wonderful and works better than manual. There's no maintenance required ever, except charging the battery which takes half a minute on my part. It's easier to use with thick gloves. You can add buttons. Your Garmin can term you what gear you're in and count shifts over a ride. It's overall better.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger. |
Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21392397)
2 completely unanticipated things I like about Di2, the first is my hands are pretty worn out from decades of hard labor and I find not having to swing the big STI levers inwards is much easier as it’s just a button push. 2nd is I like have the gears I’m in showing on my Garmin, no longer needing to glance back at the cassette. That’s a silly one I admit.
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21391765)
It looks like Giant had a 2019 model Defy with Di2, but nothing in 2020 lineup.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020 Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717 |
Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21392441)
I really thought that would not matter at all… But I do love it, too. This is why I recommend that, for anyone who gets Di2, the Bluetooth feature is a worthy upgrade. If you’re going to do it, do it all the way.
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3 |
Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21391765)
It looks like Giant had a 2019 model Defy with Di2, but nothing in 2020 lineup.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bi...anced-pro-2020 Also, for Gravel, Giant highlights one of their pro riders on a Revolt with GRX Di2.. but it's not a sold edition according to the bikes pages anyway. Not even available in manual GRX for that matter https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/ne...advanced/24717
Originally Posted by eduskator
(Post 21393014)
I saw that, what a shame! Better get a 2019 at 20% off then! I hope Giant is not planning on ditching Di2 from its lineups. Me no like SRAM! :crash:
Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
(Post 21392429)
I don't think Di2 shifts a lot better than a good mechanical group. Maybe a little. The auto trim is wonderful and works better than manual. There's no maintenance required ever, except charging the battery which takes half a minute on my part. It's easier to use with thick gloves. You can add buttons. Your Garmin can term you what gear you're in and count shifts over a ride. It's overall better.
Shifting more than one cog is faster and more natural with mech. You can't misplace your charger. |
Originally Posted by Rides4Beer
(Post 21393049)
Yup, they went SRAM for electronic for 2020. I wanted di2, so I bought a 2020 Advanced 1 with mech Ultegra and had the shop upgrade it. Two other changes for 2020 on the Defy, 160 rotor up front (previous years are 140 front/rear), and a little more tire clearance, 35mm officially, but I saw where a guy fit 38's on his 2020 Defy. I'm running 28's that measure at 30mm and there is ton of room. Maybe I'll test fit my gravel wheels and see how much room there is, my gravel tires measure at 39mm.
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21393042)
FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3 |
Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21393042)
FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3 |
Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21393069)
I'm thinking it's complete guess work as it's attempting to calculate what gears you are sitting in based on speed. Too many variables. As well if you click on the tiny.url link there's a column of posts from people unable to get this to work.
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Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21392397)
2nd is I like have the gears I’m in showing on my Garmin, no longer needing to glance back at the cassette. That’s a silly one I admit.
Second the recommendation to get the D-Fly Bluetooth adapter if the bike doesn't come with it. Very handy to access the system using your phone. The only caution is a lot of people recommend against doing firmware updates using bluetooth. Something I just discovered by accident last week is when adjusting the derailleurs a screen pops up on my Edge 830 showing the adjustment position. This is handy to me since I have two wheelsets that are slightly different and need just a little fine tuning for the rear derailleur when switching between the two. Once I established the best position for each now I can just go straight to that position when I switch wheels. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4c060ae2f9.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sy Reene
(Post 21393042)
FWIW, for the non-Di2 cyclist, there are apps for this as well. Can't say I've tried this out though:
https://apps.garmin.com/nl-NL/apps/f...f-3f8f94c7d6c3 I have the D Fly so I can't test it. But it's a cool idea. I wish my Garmin had the graphical display this one does. |
Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21392244)
If you think that Di2 shifts "much better" than mechanical, then your mechanical drivetrain needs some maintenance.
. Di2 - IN MY OPINION, and for the 80?? (can't remember - 8020 ?, 8050 ?) group I installed 2 years ago, shifts quicker, quietly (well except for the front cheep), and more reliably that any of the Ultegra or 105 mechanical groups. All of which were installed correctly and in the beginning, needed no maintenance. Which seems to be what the majority of users on this thread report as well. It's not about maintenance though I would change my comment to just state "better". |
Originally Posted by August West
(Post 21393249)
Something I just discovered by accident last week is when adjusting the derailleurs a screen pops up on my Edge 830 showing the adjustment position. This is handy to me since I have two wheelsets that are slightly different and need just a little fine tuning for the rear derailleur when switching between the two. Once I established the best position for each now I can just go straight to that position when I switch wheels.
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Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21392244)
If you think that Di2 shifts "much better" than mechanical, then your mechanical drivetrain needs some maintenance.
Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21394234)
I find this a humorous comment as I've used Ultegra since it was the 600 series, had STI Ultegra in it's 8-9-10 & 11 spd. series, plus 5800 and 7000 105 groups on about 15 bikes I've built up from frames.
Di2 - IN MY OPINION, and for the 80?? (can't remember - 8020 ?, 8050 ?) group I installed 2 years ago, shifts quicker, quietly (well except for the front cheep), and more reliably that any of the Ultegra or 105 mechanical groups. All of which were installed correctly and in the beginning, needed no maintenance. Which seems to be what the majority of users on this thread report as well. It's not about maintenance though I would change my comment to just state "better". Again, I am not fundamentally disagreeing: I like Di2 and will buy it (or the next iteration) on my next bike, most likely. |
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
(Post 21394258)
How does it work? Do you select a wheel set and it automatically makes the adjustments, or do you manually make the adjustments to match the numbers?
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Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 21394266)
Ah, yes, the "appeal to authority" fallacy. Even if you do have more experience than me (and we don't know if that's true!), it's still a logical fallacy.
Again, I am not fundamentally disagreeing: I like Di2 and will buy it (or the next iteration) on my next bike, most likely. |
Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 21394342)
Yeah, I realize my experience is what is called “anecdotal”, and is just my experience. I do think a 105 system is the most bang for the buck currently. I’d really live to put an XT Di2 system on my HT as I find the long lever push to get to larger dogs hard on my aged thumbs. The price though !, and for a 1x system, is just nuts,
I still don’t think it is worth replacing a perfectly good mechanical groupset... but on a new bike - sure. |
How secure is the wireless communications system? It would be fun if you could shift someone else's bike in a race with your Garmin somehow. :innocent:
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
(Post 21394595)
How secure is the wireless communications system? It would be fun if you could shift someone else's bike in a race with your Garmin somehow. :innocent:
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I’m the OP. Thanks for all the responses. One said i was going to convert and was just seeking “enablers.” Not really. i should have gone into more detail. I was having a lot of “rattling” noises that appeared to be coming from the downtube that the LBS couldn’t stop. Frustrating to have such a nice bike and hear that noise going over every bump. Had a local guy, that is amazing, look at it, and he installed dome rubber tubing around the internal cables and stopped the noise! Really quiet now.
A couple of the other posts discussed financial means. I can afford it, but really wasn’t sure if it was worth the extra cost. Most said if i was buying new, to go di2, otherwise, no. I agree. I’m going to stay with mechanical for now. Others said the bike wasn’t really set up for di2. The mechanic that fixed the noise said this Nike was really set up for fi2 more than mechanical. It does have a spot for the battery under the bottle holder mount. again, thanks for the responses. |
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