low back pain
#26
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I think what we are all forgetting here, is that really, the most important measurement is the top tube length for proper fitting. I personally have a little bit longer leg with a shorter torso, so a 58cm top tube fits me fine, but may be totally differant for other of the same height.
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"Read this. A low stem is for people with strong legs. If yours need work, then a higher stem will probably be more comfortable. There are more adjustments you can make. If you don't understand it all, the try some professional help."
A low stem is for people with greater flexibility (hips flexors, lower back), and no belly. Anyone can train themselves into this position given time, a stretching regime/program, core strengthening, and appropriate weight loss even if they're not the owner of particulary powerful legs.
to the original poster, I'd say stop by the shop and ask one of them to jump on a bike for five minutes (or put your bike on a trainer) and watch you spin. I'm sure they'll figure out if there's a basic fit problem pretty quickly.
A low stem is for people with greater flexibility (hips flexors, lower back), and no belly. Anyone can train themselves into this position given time, a stretching regime/program, core strengthening, and appropriate weight loss even if they're not the owner of particulary powerful legs.
to the original poster, I'd say stop by the shop and ask one of them to jump on a bike for five minutes (or put your bike on a trainer) and watch you spin. I'm sure they'll figure out if there's a basic fit problem pretty quickly.
#28
grilled cheesus
Thread Starter
stopped by and had the stem flipped and man it looks funny. the trek 1000 has the bontrager select stem with 17 degree rise. its pointing to the sky. i am sitting more upright but dont feel any more compact then before. the shop really wasnt that helpful and its a pain to lug the bike over there all the time. basically they do the stand over top tube fitting technique. if you have clearence then the fram is the right size. i am thinking that a shorter stem with less rise would be a better option?? that could shorten up the reach for me then i can work on my core to get the back in shape? what do you think? thanks.
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Stem really aren't that expensive. You might want to buy a shorter one and put it on yourself. If only take a few second and one hex wrench.
If the shop that you bought the bike at is inconveneint or not willing to help, stop going there and either learn to do it yourself or take it to a better shop.
I had to put a shorter stem, plus one with some rise to make it feel better. I also have the hood much higher than what came stock. The bike is very comfortable for me now.
If the shop that you bought the bike at is inconveneint or not willing to help, stop going there and either learn to do it yourself or take it to a better shop.
I had to put a shorter stem, plus one with some rise to make it feel better. I also have the hood much higher than what came stock. The bike is very comfortable for me now.
#30
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I got a shorter stem [10 mm less] and it made the world of difference...
Try that with moving the seat forward... see what it feels like on mile 20...
Good Luck
Try that with moving the seat forward... see what it feels like on mile 20...
Good Luck
#31
grilled cheesus
Thread Starter
yeah thats my next move a shorter stem with less rise. the specs for the bike on treks site dont tell me how long the stem is for a 63cm bike? i measured it at just over 5 inches so guess its the bontrager select 130mm which is the longest one the make. i plan to get the select os 120 mm with only 7 degree rise. thanks for the help.
#32
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Originally Posted by aham23
yeah thats my next move a shorter stem with less rise. the specs for the bike on treks site dont tell me how long the stem is for a 63cm bike? i measured it at just over 5 inches so guess its the bontrager select 130mm which is the longest one the make. i plan to get the select os 120 mm with only 7 degree rise. thanks for the help.
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#33
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Originally Posted by aham23
stopped by and had the stem flipped and man it looks funny. the trek 1000 has the bontrager select stem with 17 degree rise. its pointing to the sky. i am sitting more upright but dont feel any more compact then before. the shop really wasnt that helpful and its a pain to lug the bike over there all the time. basically they do the stand over top tube fitting technique. if you have clearence then the fram is the right size. i am thinking that a shorter stem with less rise would be a better option?? that could shorten up the reach for me then i can work on my core to get the back in shape? what do you think? thanks.
Are you able to bend your elbows when in the hoods?
If you lower the stem, you'll be putting more pressure on your back. Plus if you plan to get a new stem to shorten the reach, make sure you know the effective (horizontal) lengths of the stems you are comparing. You could end up with a longer reach going from 17 to 7 degree rise.
Last edited by Post42K; 07-12-05 at 10:45 PM.
#34
grilled cheesus
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Post42K
In this position, is the top of the bars higher or lower than the top the the saddle? How much?
Are you able to bend your elbows when in the hoods?
If you lower the stem, you'll be putting more pressure on your back. Plus if you plan to get a new stem to shorten the reach, make sure you know the effective (horizontal) lengths of the stems you are comparing. You could end up with a longer reach going from 17 to 7 degree rise.
Are you able to bend your elbows when in the hoods?
If you lower the stem, you'll be putting more pressure on your back. Plus if you plan to get a new stem to shorten the reach, make sure you know the effective (horizontal) lengths of the stems you are comparing. You could end up with a longer reach going from 17 to 7 degree rise.
the top position is even with the stem flipped up in its 17 degree position. i am able to bend the elbows in this flipped position as well as the previous flat or normal position. i dont really feel too stretched out in either position but this is my first attempt at road biking. the back pain must just be from the poor shape my core is in. must do more sit ups.
my stem is 130mm and of course its listed on the stem. who knew? anyway, i hope to pick up a shorter one today say 120mm with only 7 degree rise and give that a try. i would like to not have to flip it and just get my arse in shape. thanks.
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6'3'' on a 63cm bike?!!!! That sounds WAY to big to me. My 6'2'' -6'3'' friends are riding 58-60cm. Too late for a new frame, but a shorter stem might do wonders. I popped a shorter stem on my bike and low back pain vanished overnight. Your spine should support your weight (i.e. it should be nicely centered over your hips) so your back muscles dont have to. You should be able to ride using the handlebars to guide the back rather than actually weighting the bars.
stems go as short as 50cm (i am 5'4'' with the leg length of someone who is 5'7''-8'' so tip tube length has been a huge problem for me)
start high and work your way to lower positions over time. gradual core strength
stems go as short as 50cm (i am 5'4'' with the leg length of someone who is 5'7''-8'' so tip tube length has been a huge problem for me)
start high and work your way to lower positions over time. gradual core strength
Last edited by racergirl; 07-13-05 at 10:14 AM.
#36
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I have to agree with others that mention the bike may be to big for you. I ride with a 16 year old 6'2 kid that we put on a low cost fuji that's a 61cm. This kid has an extremely long torso and fairly long arms and he sits very well on the 61. I just can't imagine your arms being that much longer than this kids, especially if your about the same height.
I personally don't like the stand over-top tube fitting, it's about as effective as pushing your thumb over your big toe and saying those shoes fit, but what if you have a wide foot? Also the trek1000 is aluminum and I would assume a harsh riding frame, I know my Guru Flite rides fairly rough. It sends everything right up the seat stays into my %&^ and up my spine. I added an Easton Carbon fiber seat post to reduce vibration and shock, you may want to consider that.
I have 2 herniated disc @ L3 & 4 and recently broke one of those fins off one of my vertibra(fins the piece of the vertebra that sticks out each side don't know the tech term)in a dirt back accident. Needless to say back pain comes naturally for me and bike fit no matter how perfect will not cure, only minimize. Do as others say on here and stretch as much as you can it's crucial, but don't cause yourself more pain contorting your body. Do easy stretches and consider taking a day or two off until your back feels better.
Good luck and Happy Riding..............
I personally don't like the stand over-top tube fitting, it's about as effective as pushing your thumb over your big toe and saying those shoes fit, but what if you have a wide foot? Also the trek1000 is aluminum and I would assume a harsh riding frame, I know my Guru Flite rides fairly rough. It sends everything right up the seat stays into my %&^ and up my spine. I added an Easton Carbon fiber seat post to reduce vibration and shock, you may want to consider that.
I have 2 herniated disc @ L3 & 4 and recently broke one of those fins off one of my vertibra(fins the piece of the vertebra that sticks out each side don't know the tech term)in a dirt back accident. Needless to say back pain comes naturally for me and bike fit no matter how perfect will not cure, only minimize. Do as others say on here and stretch as much as you can it's crucial, but don't cause yourself more pain contorting your body. Do easy stretches and consider taking a day or two off until your back feels better.
Good luck and Happy Riding..............
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Originally Posted by aham23
the top position is even with the stem flipped up in its 17 degree position. i am able to bend the elbows in this flipped position as well as the previous flat or normal position. i dont really feel too stretched out in either position but this is my first attempt at road biking. the back pain must just be from the poor shape my core is in. must do more sit ups.
my stem is 130mm and of course its listed on the stem. who knew? anyway, i hope to pick up a shorter one today say 120mm with only 7 degree rise and give that a try. i would like to not have to flip it and just get my arse in shape. thanks.
my stem is 130mm and of course its listed on the stem. who knew? anyway, i hope to pick up a shorter one today say 120mm with only 7 degree rise and give that a try. i would like to not have to flip it and just get my arse in shape. thanks.
It sounds to me as if you just need to spend more time on the bike to get used to it. It does take a while to get used to the road bike position especially if you're coming from a mountain bike. If you're able to standover the bike with some clearance, you're able to bend your elbows when in the hoods and you say you don't feel stretched, it sounds like the bike in not too big. If your handlebars are now at the same height as your saddle, I would leave the stem as-is for a while -- don't worry about how it looks. If you change to a stem with less rise, your going to be bent over more which puts more stress on your back.