Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

How Can I Make This Bike Fit? Breezer Venturi

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

How Can I Make This Bike Fit? Breezer Venturi

Old 04-12-20, 09:04 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 14 Posts
How Can I Make This Bike Fit? Breezer Venturi

The bike is Breezer Venturi in size 54. Now before you tell me to sell it because it doesn't a few points:
a) They don't make this bike anymore
b) It's a really really nice bike and I got it for a song.

Here is the issue with this bike.

My size is 54 but the ETT on this bike is 57.5cm. Breezer compensate by giving a very upright stem (see https://archive.breezerbikes.com/2012/Breezer/venturi-). I love this bike. It puts a smile on my face when I ride it, its smooth, stiff. Hard to believe it is steel.

But my hands get tingly after a 10 miles because of the elongated position. I've tried using a shorter stem (60mm stem vs original 120mm stem) but it doesn't help because the 120mm original stem has an 21 degree angle and the 60mm stem is typical 8 degree).

Any suggestions beyond building up my core muscles more?

Thinking outside the box, will aero bars help? I don't ride in group rides much.
UsedToBeFaster is offline  
Old 04-12-20, 09:42 AM
noodle soup
Senior Member
noodle soup's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,442
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4385 Post(s)
Liked 1,442 Times in 801 Posts

This thread will end well.
noodle soup is offline  
Old 04-12-20, 09:50 AM
Senior Member
WhyFi's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 30,670

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 338 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13614 Post(s)
Liked 2,878 Times in 1,543 Posts
I know this guy online that's an expert with a fabulous success rate - I'll try to put you in touch with him.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 04-12-20, 09:53 AM
mstateglfr's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 10,763

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4250 Post(s)
Liked 1,274 Times in 790 Posts
The original stem is a just a 12 degree rise.

Its a really nicely spec'd bike that has a very aggressive fit. I don't know why it didn't last long in terms of multiple models, but I can sure guess the geometry, which doesnt work for most, might not have helped keep it around.

You have already reduced the stem by 60mm. I guess find a short stem with a lot of rise? Maybe get some bars that have wings where the tops are higher than the clamping area?
...or get yourself a bike that fits.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 04-12-20, 10:03 AM
Senior Member
woodcraft's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 5,283
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1484 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 519 Times in 307 Posts
Aero bars and a fast forward seat post?
woodcraft is offline  
Old 07-26-20, 10:27 AM
Random Internet Person.
base2's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,348

Bikes: 5 good ones, and the occasional project.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 691 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times in 164 Posts
I presume this is the Breezer from the other thread about seat posts...

There is a relationship between stem length & handlebar width.

The trend in many bikes lately is to have really wide bars and super short stems. There is a reason for this & is is aporopriate for All‐Mountain or similar mountain bikes.

But a decade or 3 ago the trend was long stems & narrower bars. What we would now call "cross-country" mountainbikes comes to mind.

I mention this to emphasize that stem length alone is unlikely to be the complete solution. If the bike is a bit long in the top tube, narrower bars can help by taking some of the reach & help to put the force more directly in line with your arms.

Anecdote time:
My wife normally rides a size 54 bike, but she has a size 56 vintage road bike I built up for her. Like you, a zero offset seat post went a long way to shrinking the frame. Then switching from the 42cm width handle bar to the same bar in size 38cm was (I'm told) like magic in terms of fit.

Similarly, I normally ride a size 57 endurance/cross/cx bike, but bought a size 58 endurance road bike. Over a few years, after swapping out for a slightly shorter stem, I swapped out the 44cm wide bars for 42cm bars & inspite of the shifters being 5mm further away, the fit improved beyond what the stem alone could account for. (Stems come in 1cm/10mm increments) I wouldn't say it was "like magic" but the bike effectively "feels" a bit smaller & the wear patch from my wrist bones on the bar tape has not returned.

My kid who is 5 foot 10 also has a bike with a 60cm (!) top tube & 100mm stem. His bars are 40cm wide & he comfortably churns out 100 miles per week. alá old-school fitting orthodoxy. Like you, the zero offset seatpost was the first step to shrinking the bike.

Even on my ideally sized 57 cx/cross/endurance bike, I went with old school orthodoxy with a slightly longer stem & narrower bars than OEM. Not to fix frame size, but because it fit better & allowed for more time in the drops.

Ideally, you'd want the offset, whatever it is to not be at either extreme of the saddle rails & still be an appropriate relation to the crankset. Combination of stem length & bar width comes next.

Current design trend is for shallow drops & 100% of time to be spent on the hoods. A combination of stem length & narrower bar width could get you a more classic fit. Your frame may be too large by todays standards, but isn't crazy by the way bikes used to be sized.

Food for thought.

Last edited by base2; 07-26-20 at 11:38 AM.
base2 is offline  
Old 07-26-20, 11:01 AM
genejockey's Avatar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,239

Bikes: Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 612 Post(s)
Liked 763 Times in 403 Posts
Okay, so looking at Breezer's page on the bike, it's a Large, not a 54. That means it's really a 56-58. Based on ETT, I'd say 58. You don't say how tall you are, or your inseam, but I think the problem is you're thinking of this as a size 54, instead of a 58. Is a 58 really your size? There are a number of fit calculators online that you can input a few measurements into to tell you what size bike you really want. Wrench Science has one, so does Competitive Cyclist.

I'm no expert, but I do think that having already gone for a zero setback seatpost, on a frame with a 73.5 degree STA, AND a 60mm stem on a frame with a 74 degree head tube angle, you're trying to force a fit on a bike that's way too large, and in doing so you're probably compromising the handling, all in quest of comfort you've so far failed to achieve.

EDIT: IOW, sorry to say, but my advice would be to get a bike that fits.
genejockey is online now  
Old 07-26-20, 11:18 AM
Senior Member
Iride01's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 4,383

Bikes: '20 Tarmac Disc Comp '91 Schwinn Paramount '78 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1648 Post(s)
Liked 530 Times in 407 Posts
It's probably going to be that your body has to get used to it if you insist on riding it. If you are going to ride it anyway, then some of the things base2 said seem worth trying.

I rode a 25 inch Schwinn varsity for over 35 years and I am only 5'11". But I started on the wrong size at an age that I was still adaptable. <grin> I now ride a 56 cm frame, about 8 cm smaller.

Not sure if you can get there on that bike, but for me, dropping the bars lower seemed to relieve the pressure on my hands simply because my body can only bend so far while keeping my back straight. However if your saddle isn't as high as the pic in your link, then even a stem change giving you a lower angle won't help.

I still have a few issues with numb hands if I don't change from hoods to drops every so often during the ride. I've also wondered if my handle bars are too wide. My current two bikes have the bars at 42cm wide which is about my shoulder width. I really think that makes my stance or what ever you call it too rigid and maybe going back to the width of the bars on my Raleigh Competition which are an inch or more narrower will help get rid of that rigidness side to side. I know that people say your bars should be your shoulder width, but I've bucked a few long time established conventions and been happier. After all, the convention are based on average people and I'm not average! <grin>

Good luck trying to make if fit you well. My old steel Varsity was very comfortable, stable and forgiving ride. But I even had to let it go for bikes that gave me better ways to make my stat's look better. Simply can't climb a long 6 percent grade as fast on a 46 pound bike as you can on a 18 pound bike. Hopefully yours is at least 22 to 23 pounds.
Iride01 is online now  
Old 07-26-20, 12:32 PM
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,172
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1810 Post(s)
Liked 1,182 Times in 672 Posts
Maybe these can be merged. Zero offset seat posts
shelbyfv is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.