2 Canyon Ultimates - Wondering which one to get?
#1
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2 Canyon Ultimates - Wondering which one to get?
Fellow roadies, first of all I hope everyone is well and healthy.
I'm in the market of a new road bike and have narrowed down my search to 2 Canyon Ultimate models. I'm currently torn of which one to get.
First, about my style of riding, I do not race. But I really enjoy challenging myself and riding tempo in most rides. I'm also a big fan of structured training (ala Trainer Road). This year, I have signed up on a couple of century races in the summer, one of them with 10,000 ft of climbing. I live in Illinois, so other than a couple of race and event here and there, I typically do not climb that much (on average about 2,000 ft per ride). I also do not ride in the rain or wet condition. I have my gravel bike with knobby tires for that condition.
So, these are my 2 options:
My only concern is the ETAP version is almost 1 lbs heavier than the rim brake version. But my buddy told me that the ETAP version could be faster in overall, because of the better wheelset.
Appreciate if you could share your feedback.
Thanks,
Richard
I'm in the market of a new road bike and have narrowed down my search to 2 Canyon Ultimate models. I'm currently torn of which one to get.
First, about my style of riding, I do not race. But I really enjoy challenging myself and riding tempo in most rides. I'm also a big fan of structured training (ala Trainer Road). This year, I have signed up on a couple of century races in the summer, one of them with 10,000 ft of climbing. I live in Illinois, so other than a couple of race and event here and there, I typically do not climb that much (on average about 2,000 ft per ride). I also do not ride in the rain or wet condition. I have my gravel bike with knobby tires for that condition.
So, these are my 2 options:
- Canyon Ultimate CF SLX Disc 8.0 ETAP: 7.44kg, SRAM Force eTap, DT Swiss ARC 1400 Dicut 48mm deep wheelset, Disc Brake, SRAM Force D1 Power Meter - $5,399
- Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 8.0 Di2: 6.8kg, Ultegra Di2, Reynolds AR41 41mm deep wheelset, Rim Brake, No Power Meter - $4,499
My only concern is the ETAP version is almost 1 lbs heavier than the rim brake version. But my buddy told me that the ETAP version could be faster in overall, because of the better wheelset.
Appreciate if you could share your feedback.
Thanks,
Richard
#2
Destroyer of Worlds
This is just based on what you said you want to do...not trying to go pro or being a Cat A racer. You seem to have a similar riding mentality as I do. But take what I say with a grain of salt.
I can't tell you anything about whether the wheelset will offset the added weight of ETAP, but what I can say is this....after having had regular and Di2...I could never go back. The shifts are so crisp, accurate, and fast it's insane. On top of that, it's just so darn easy...but it's not simple. You can change so much with the system, how you want it to work based on your experience as a rider, but also your personality or preferences. I have mine set up in "full auto" where it automatically goes between the small and large chainring for me based on what cog/sprocket I'm in on the cassette...and even though that sounds tacky, I've found it really helps me a lot. It then auto-adjusts what cog/sprocket I'm in so the jump in RPM/effort isn't too dramatic. I really like that. So while you may lose a tiny bit of speed with the electronic shifting system and same wheelset...you may also gain a bit of speed in both the shifts that you never miss (due to not fully sliding the lever, or whatever), as well as the ability to focus on other things instead of gearing all the time. For climbing that's a pretty big thing. I have nothing but hills where I live, and just being able to "own" the hill and not worry about anything else is probably one of the things I like most. Plus, I feel like the extra little bit of "effort" I save from being able to push a button instead of sliding a lever under tension "feels" better to me (this is definitely in my head, I'm sure there's no real benefit there).
Finally, I'm not an expert on groupsets or anything like that, just want to share my thoughts based on my experiences! YMMV and I hope you are able to make the right choice for you!
I can't tell you anything about whether the wheelset will offset the added weight of ETAP, but what I can say is this....after having had regular and Di2...I could never go back. The shifts are so crisp, accurate, and fast it's insane. On top of that, it's just so darn easy...but it's not simple. You can change so much with the system, how you want it to work based on your experience as a rider, but also your personality or preferences. I have mine set up in "full auto" where it automatically goes between the small and large chainring for me based on what cog/sprocket I'm in on the cassette...and even though that sounds tacky, I've found it really helps me a lot. It then auto-adjusts what cog/sprocket I'm in so the jump in RPM/effort isn't too dramatic. I really like that. So while you may lose a tiny bit of speed with the electronic shifting system and same wheelset...you may also gain a bit of speed in both the shifts that you never miss (due to not fully sliding the lever, or whatever), as well as the ability to focus on other things instead of gearing all the time. For climbing that's a pretty big thing. I have nothing but hills where I live, and just being able to "own" the hill and not worry about anything else is probably one of the things I like most. Plus, I feel like the extra little bit of "effort" I save from being able to push a button instead of sliding a lever under tension "feels" better to me (this is definitely in my head, I'm sure there's no real benefit there).
Finally, I'm not an expert on groupsets or anything like that, just want to share my thoughts based on my experiences! YMMV and I hope you are able to make the right choice for you!
Last edited by N00b_Cyclist; 04-12-20 at 10:49 PM.
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#3
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For your type of riding that you do, the 1 lb weight difference isn't going to make noticeable difference, either way, and I think that disc brakes are well worth the added weight. However, base on my (very positive) experience with Di2, and the numerous less-than-stellar reviews of Sram's shifting smoothness (i.e. lack thereof), I'd be hard pressed to purchase a bike with etap...thus the dilemma. Actually, I was considering Canyon last summer when I was shopping for a new bike, but ended up going with Cervelo, simply because I wanted disc brakes, and di2. If they offered the SLX disc with Ultegra Di2, it'd most likely be sitting in my garage right now (I'm very happy with my R5, so I'm glad it isn't, tho
).
But, if I had to choose between those 2 bikes, I'd do with the SLX disc, with etap because of the disc brakes and the power meter...both of which, I think, are worth the added cost, and weight. If you decide you don't like the etap, you can sell it and pick up a di2 groupset...you'd probably even make a couple hundred bucks in the process.

But, if I had to choose between those 2 bikes, I'd do with the SLX disc, with etap because of the disc brakes and the power meter...both of which, I think, are worth the added cost, and weight. If you decide you don't like the etap, you can sell it and pick up a di2 groupset...you'd probably even make a couple hundred bucks in the process.
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Ultimately, the decision is up to you.
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I'd probably get the Ultegra Di2 model and buy a powermeter with the price savings, and later get a second wheelset (training tires on the AR41 and nicer tires on whatever you get).
However, if i had to pick one of the two listed with no option for upgrading for a while, I'd get the Force eTap version. Purely as presented, the nicer wheels and powermeter would edge out the weight difference.
Edit - oh wait, rim brakes on the Di2 model. No, I'd get the disc brake version.
However, if i had to pick one of the two listed with no option for upgrading for a while, I'd get the Force eTap version. Purely as presented, the nicer wheels and powermeter would edge out the weight difference.
Edit - oh wait, rim brakes on the Di2 model. No, I'd get the disc brake version.
Last edited by guadzilla; 04-13-20 at 05:21 AM.
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Is there no way to get disc/Di2? Because neither of those bikes feels clearly correct...
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There’s the CF SL 8.0 disc w/ Di2 for $3700 that comes in at 7.5kg. The wheels aren’t great, but an easy upgrade.
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I'd get the CF SLX Disc 8.0 ETAP. Yes there is some added weight, but you're getting better wheels, extra gearing, and a power meter...which if used properly is going to make you much faster than that extra 1lb of weight.
In general I think the extra gearing of the ETAP AXS stuff makes it an obvious choice over Di2 from a future proofing perspective.
In general I think the extra gearing of the ETAP AXS stuff makes it an obvious choice over Di2 from a future proofing perspective.
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- Canyon Ultimate CF SLX Disc 8.0 ETAP: 7.44kg, SRAM Force eTap, DT Swiss ARC 1400 Dicut 48mm deep wheelset, Disc Brake, SRAM Force D1 Power Meter - $5,399
- Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 8.0 Di2: 6.8kg, Ultegra Di2, Reynolds AR41 41mm deep wheelset, Rim Brake, No Power Meter - $4,499
The emphasis of your post is about weight and speed. You aren't going to notice those differences riding these bikes. But the difference between carbon wheels with rim and disc brakes, you will definitely notice.
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In the spirit of completely not answering the OP's question and recommending a whole different direction, I'd rather have R7000 hydro, nice wheels, and a Quarq.
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I would buy the model in the link below. At $3699, you get an Ultegra Di2 hydraulic group-set, and around 2k left-over for a decent carbon wheelset.
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road-bi...nfarbe=BU%2FWH
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road-bi...nfarbe=BU%2FWH
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You're worried about a 16 1/2 lb, disc brake bike being heavier?
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Like the OP, I ride road geometries (e.g., my old bike is a Felt "F" series, not the "Z" series, my new bike is a Canyon Ultimate). I'm not a racer or a racer wannabe, but I do want to be as fast as I can be, given my abilities and training. The road geometry is comfortable for me. At one point, when shopping for the Felt, I test road some endurance bikes (Felt "Z", Specialized Roubaix) and they felt dull to me.
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Well yes, I also ride on the hoods when I want to be serious, not holding the handlebar, but the same idea still applies, no? With the 'race' geometry, being on the hoods would mean being a little further away and a little further down, compared to the the 'endurance' geometry, putting the back in a different position.
Worse for whom? Not for me. Not for many others. Maybe for you.
I've heard it said that as one gets older, the lower position is harder on the back. But unless I am stricken with covid-19 or something, I will turn 59 next month and so far so good. Maybe at some later point it will be "worse" for me, but to generalize this as being true for everybody is perhaps presumptuous, no?
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From a scientific point of view, the angles and thus stresses on the muscles, etc. Supposedly. But you may be right, and that's just a marketing thing that bike manufacturers have jumped on to, or is just true for some people, who knows. I for one in my 20s and already have lower back issues, that do come up when I cycle too long (a short rest stop can help wonders though, the other day just waiting a minute at a red light got rid of them for the entire rest of the ride).
It took me a couple of days of laughing before I could respond to this.
You really believe that there's something called science that has decided that one particular bike position is best for all bodies?
Welcome to bf, btw. You'll get along fine here if you learn not to over-generalize.
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Are we actually arguing that a lower, more aggressive position can be just as (if not more) comfortable, than a more upright position (which is a different statement from saying that it is possible to be comfortable in a more aggressive position, and also different from what one prefers, mind you).
I just wanted to make sure i was interpreting this correctly.
I just wanted to make sure i was interpreting this correctly.
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Are we actually arguing that a lower, more aggressive position can be just as (if not more) comfortable, than a more upright position (which is a different statement from saying that it is possible to be comfortable in a more aggressive position, and also different from what one prefers, mind you).
I just wanted to make sure i was interpreting this correctly.
I just wanted to make sure i was interpreting this correctly.