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So expensive

Old 09-08-20, 08:08 AM
  #26  
eduskator
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
So... I bought my first ever bike with brakes and gears this year. I started cycling through BMX. Then I transitioned into riding single speed Fixed gear/track bikes. Never ran brakes on any of my bikes (except when I was a bike Messenger in downtown Miami). I've been hit 13 times in my life. Twice this year. Once in February and again in July. The accident in July totally destroyed my track bike. It was also a hit and run. A few of my friends helped me get a new 2021 Specialized Allez. The basic model. My LBS had it in stock at the time and I really needed another bike asap because I dont own a car. Getting a bike online worth buying was almost impossible. I love cycling and I get miles in. I'm not new to cycling by any means. I am new to having to spend SO damn much to upgrade these parts to gain speed. My bike is heavy. Easily weighsf 4 pounds more than my previous bike. I really want to get an entire new groupset(one by sram-rival) and new lighter and better wheels but that in itself is $2,000 +++++. So I'm forced to wait longer for more gains in speed and performance bike wise because I have to save so much more money. Is it worth getting not as expensive parts first? Or waiting to get the best?
It is most likely always more expensive to upgrade than to replace entirely. I did the math 2 times so far and always ended up buying a new bikes instead of upgrading them. If you find it too expensive already, I'd suggest to stay with your current setup & enjoy it.

It's worth getting more expensive parts if you keep the bike for a long run, which is impossible to know when you start cycling. Don't worry, road bikes don't depreciate as much as other goods (cars, for instance...).
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Old 09-08-20, 10:54 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
So what you all are saying is that I should save my money and just buy the Specialized Allez Sprint Disc? By no means will I choose to remain to ride a bike with crappy parts and not upgrade them. Thatís ridiculous. Iím not disagreeing with the fact that a power meter can help me train. Why would I put a power meter on a bike with Shimano Claris? Would you take your Toyota Yaris to a dyno?
Then you definitely don't want SRAM!
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Old 09-08-20, 11:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
So what you all are saying is that I should save my money and just buy the Specialized Allez Sprint Disc? By no means will I choose to remain to ride a bike with crappy parts and not upgrade them. Thatís ridiculous. Iím not disagreeing with the fact that a power meter can help me train. Why would I put a power meter on a bike with Shimano Claris? Would you take your Toyota Yaris to a dyno?
I don't have a power meter so I don't speak for those who do, but ... if my serious intent was to improve my power (speed) I'd have no issue with training on a bike with Claris and a power meter would be a useful tool. Certainly more useful than upgrading to 105 or Ultegra to get faster more quickly.
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Old 09-08-20, 01:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
I don't have a power meter so I don't speak for those who do, but ... if my serious intent was to improve my power (speed) I'd have no issue with training on a bike with Claris and a power meter would be a useful tool. Certainly more useful than upgrading to 105 or Ultegra to get faster more quickly.
Agreed. OP could get a pedal based power meter, which can then be moved to any other bike.
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Old 09-11-20, 02:23 PM
  #30  
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Funny that I'm often adding weight for my training rides. I am the engine and weight is just a number to be crushed by better fitness
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Old 09-11-20, 03:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JayKay3000
Funny that I'm often adding weight for my training rides. I am the engine and weight is just a number to be crushed by better fitness
Uhhh.

No.
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Old 09-11-20, 04:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JayKay3000
Funny that I'm often adding weight for my training rides. I am the engine and weight is just a number to be crushed by better fitness
If you're not getting enough resistance while climbing on a lightweight bicycle, pedal harder.
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Old 09-11-20, 04:17 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
So... I bought my first ever bike with brakes and gears this year. I started cycling through BMX. Then I transitioned into riding single speed Fixed gear/track bikes. Never ran brakes on any of my bikes (except when I was a bike Messenger in downtown Miami). I've been hit 13 times in my life. Twice this year. Once in February and again in July. The accident in July totally destroyed my track bike. It was also a hit and run. A few of my friends helped me get a new 2021 Specialized Allez. The basic model. My LBS had it in stock at the time and I really needed another bike asap because I dont own a car. Getting a bike online worth buying was almost impossible. I love cycling and I get miles in. I'm not new to cycling by any means. I am new to having to spend SO damn much to upgrade these parts to gain speed. My bike is heavy. Easily weighsf 4 pounds more than my previous bike. I really want to get an entire new groupset(one by sram-rival) and new lighter and better wheels but that in itself is $2,000 +++++. So I'm forced to wait longer for more gains in speed and performance bike wise because I have to save so much more money. Is it worth getting not as expensive parts first? Or waiting to get the best?
If you get hit a couple times a year, I wouldn't splurge that much. Besides Florida is too flat to worry about bike weight.
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Old 09-11-20, 04:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by seattle forrest
then you definitely don't want sram!
ouch
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Old 09-12-20, 07:15 AM
  #35  
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First ever bike with brakes? You can't race in any sanctioned BMX race without brakes... nor would you want to. Even if you're not racing, BMX - flatland, ramps, track - doesn't work without a free hub/wheel. So, you're saying this is your first road bike without brakes?

Forget about a power meter.
Don't upgrade your current bike.
Ride the current bike until you can afford to replace it - the entire bike.
Consider a used bike - later
Bike weight doesn't matter nearly as much as we hear, read, are told by bike manufacturers - especially in South Florida.
Body weight does matter... it also costs less to reduce

I have a lot of bikes. The two I ride the most (on the road) are:
- New Scott Foil with carbon everything and an SRM power meter.
- 1997 single speed aluminum Klein with some steel parts.

On rides under 50 miles, my average pace is virtually the same. As one of those skinny guys who got paid to ride his bike once said "It's not about the bike".
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Old 09-12-20, 07:52 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
So what you all are saying is that I should save my money and just buy the Specialized Allez Sprint Disc? By no means will I choose to remain to ride a bike with crappy parts and not upgrade them. That’s ridiculous. I’m not disagreeing with the fact that a power meter can help me train. Why would I put a power meter on a bike with Shimano Claris? Would you take your Toyota Yaris to a dyno?
Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
Then you definitely don't want SRAM!
Originally Posted by GlennR
ouch
The truth hurts, but lies are worse.
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Old 09-12-20, 01:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
The truth hurts, but lies are worse.
I've found that most of the problems are due to poor setup.

I've had 4 bikes with Sram and my son has 3. Three with Rival 10 speed, 1 with Rival CX1, Force 10 speed, Red 22 and Red eTap and never had a problem.must be over 60,000 trouble free miles.

So either i'm doing better than everyone else or some people don't know how to setup a bike.
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Old 09-12-20, 02:18 PM
  #38  
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If your friends are on Tarmacs and have years of experience on you, buying an Allez Sprint won't help. Train on the current bike until you can afford the Sprint, then you'll be on pace with them.
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Old 09-12-20, 02:55 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by GlennR
I've found that most of the problems are due to poor setup.
Either that, or a quality control issue. People say yaw derailleurs are harder to set up correctly, so more bikes with poor setup wouldn't be a surprise. But you're not the only one who it's worked satisfactorily for, proving that it can be done.
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Old 09-12-20, 10:35 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Zaskar
First ever bike with brakes? You can't race in any sanctioned BMX race without brakes... nor would you want to. Even if you're not racing, BMX - flatland, ramps, track - doesn't work without a free hub/wheel. So, you're saying this is your first road bike without brakes?

Forget about a power meter.
Don't upgrade your current bike.
Ride the current bike until you can afford to replace it - the entire bike.
Consider a used bike - later
Bike weight doesn't matter nearly as much as we hear, read, are told by bike manufacturers - especially in South Florida.
Body weight does matter... it also costs less to reduce

I have a lot of bikes. The two I ride the most (on the road) are:
- New Scott Foil with carbon everything and an SRM power meter.
- 1997 single speed aluminum Klein with some steel parts.

On rides under 50 miles, my average pace is virtually the same. As one of those skinny guys who got paid to ride his bike once said "It's not about the bike".
No. I never raced BMX. I rode street and parks and no, you dont need brakes on a BMX bike to ride lol. Obviously my Fitbikeco and WethePeople BMX had freewheels. No freecoasters though. Never got bought one and never got used to them.
I do think bike weight matters. And if it doesn't then why do poeple, like yourself, own full carbon bikes? Why dont you go to your local Walmart, buy a beach cruiser, slap Di2 on it and call it a day? Bike weight does matter a lot. The sport wouldn't be where it is today. I'm not saying that I need a sub 15lb bike. But plus 20lbs is not okay for me. Also, I'm losing weight. A few months ago I weighed 190lbs and now I'm at 180lbs. My goal is to be close to 170lbs. I do agree with just replacing the whole bike. I've looked around more and seen that I can get a Tarmac SL6 comp with Ultegra for $3,500ish. My roomate is getting the New 2021 Bianchi Aria which is around the same price I think. It's just that I have to save up so much and ride this clydesdale of a 2021 Allez that weighs 20 plus pounds for longer than I want to.
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Old 09-12-20, 10:37 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Princess_Allez
If your friends are on Tarmacs and have years of experience on you, buying an Allez Sprint won't help. Train on the current bike until you can afford the Sprint, then you'll be on pace with them.
That's where youre wrong though. I'm not a weak cyclist. This is my first road bike. Been on the TRACK BIKE. Been droppin' roadies before I was one
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Old 09-12-20, 11:24 PM
  #42  
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If you're that strong, the bike weight shouldn't matter. If you think 3lbs of bike weight is why other riders are ahead of you, then the upcoming reality check is going to be a harsh one... and from the sound of it, expensive.
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Old 09-12-20, 11:57 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
Then you definitely don't want SRAM!
Where does all this SRAM hate come from? Is it the nasty shift feel? Because aside from this inherent drawback of their escapement, the gear I've seen and used has appeared to be pretty good stuff, employing a few nice innovations, not least of which is the longer cable pull for better indexing consistency, and the Yaw FD which eliminates the need for trimming. The RDs were more accurate and elegant than Shimano's pre-shadow designs, GXP cranks look sleeker than HT2 cranks and still take standard rings, and you can have BB30 or BB386. While Shimano's 2nd-gen 10s groups were confounding their owners with that wing-and-a-prayer signal-to-noise ratio thanks to the tiny cable pull coupled with under-tape cables, SRAM riders were like, lol. Except anyone stuck with a 1st-gen RED FD, of course...

So yeah, it really seems like SRAM don't get a fair shake, to me. Was it the epic RED FD fail too? It's that still an albatross despite the supreme compensation of Yaw?

Last edited by Kimmo; 09-13-20 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 09-13-20, 12:12 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope
If you're that strong, the bike weight shouldn't matter. If you think 3lbs of bike weight is why other riders are ahead of you, then the upcoming reality check is going to be a harsh one... and from the sound of it, expensive.
I guess every rider in the Tour should ride walmart bikes then.
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Old 09-13-20, 12:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
I guess every rider in the Tour should ride walmart bikes then.
Walmart has some decent bikes now. And even the lanterne rouge in the TdF would drop me like a rock on my 18 lb bike. There's no substitute for youth, a natural engine cultivated to optimal form, and getting aero. Five lbs here or there won't matter nearly as much as those factors.
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Old 09-13-20, 01:03 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
I guess every rider in the Tour should ride walmart bikes then.
The point that people are making here isn't that bicycle quality doesn't matter at all, it's that you don't seem to understand how your priorities correlate to performance.

A Walmart beach cruiser is vastly slower than a high-end road bike, but weight is actually pretty far down on the list of reasons why. Posture, rolling resistance, and *actually working properly* are all more significant in most situations.
The weight difference between an Allez and a Tarmac SL6 Comp is a little over 2lbs. For a 180lb cyclist, that's going to cost roughly 1% in climbing speed up a steep hill, and be negligible in most flat and downhill situations. That's not to say that a Tarmac SL6 Comp isn't a better bike than a base Allez, but it's important to understand why and how.

The tricky thing with weight is that its actual performance impacts are disproportionately small compared with how easy it is to feel its presence. It matters, but much less than people think if they're gauging everything by tactile noticeability.

Originally Posted by ryan_rides
Wont run Latex tubes cause I dont want flats.
Latex tubes require more care for installation, but in my experience, if anything they get fewer flats on the road than butyl does.
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Old 09-13-20, 01:14 AM
  #47  
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Again, the bike weight doesn't matter, especially on flat terrain. I had the same speed to work (16 mile commute on flat to rolling-ish terrain) on my 22 lb CX bike as I did on my 16 lb carbon aero bike this week. It's the engine, start working on that. Or, if it's your first bike ever with brakes and gears, make sure the breaks aren't rubbing, and maybe learn to use the gears properly? Just a thought.
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Old 09-13-20, 08:35 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
I guess every rider in the Tour should ride walmart bikes then.
my man, just to reiterate my post above, I accomplish 99.999% of what most cyclists can on an allez with Claris (and I do have a power meter on it). Someone I know locally has a carbon frame, custom carbon wheels from a local builder, and is a really good masters crit racer. We ride the same loops around the same average power, and our times are generally the same. Youíre attributing way too much to gear like itíll help you leaps and bounds, But pros use gear for marginal gains, and all the entry level stuff is good enough to ride with and compete against other people.
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Old 09-13-20, 08:44 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ryan_rides
I guess every rider in the Tour should ride walmart bikes then.
Do you think if you got a Tour de France rider's bike, and they got a bike from Walmart, that they still wouldn't drop you out of the parking lot?
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Old 09-13-20, 08:46 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by hubcyclist
But pros use gear for marginal gains,
Most importantly, pros get paid to ride certain gear.

And they get paid what they get paid because of their ability to ride anything faster than everyone else.
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