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Busted Carbon Rim - Thoughts?

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Busted Carbon Rim - Thoughts?

Old 10-22-20, 09:49 AM
  #26  
November Dave
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
Just out of curiosity, where are you vendors placing the drain hole? Just in case I hypothetically have to place my own....
Again, it's not something we're doing yet. But the drain holes I've seen have been placed just inside of where the brake track would be - inside of the tire bed but placed such that the hole is as low in the rim cavity as possible when the hole is at 6 o'clock.
Whether anyone chooses to use rims not specifically made/designed for tubeless is up to them. There's plenty of precedent for doing it, but it's something that the user takes responsibility for.
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Old 10-22-20, 09:53 AM
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FWIW, I have that same wheelset in 38mm depth. I've got about 500 miles on them an no complaints, other than the rear hub being super loud.

I was also wondering about tubeless on them, and I think this thread confirmed that I will stick with tubes.
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Old 10-22-20, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by msu2001la View Post
FWIW, I have that same wheelset in 38mm depth. I've got about 500 miles on them an no complaints, other than the rear hub being super loud.

I was also wondering about tubeless on them, and I think this thread confirmed that I will stick with tubes.
Yea dude, the rear hub is loud as hell! I use it as sort of a horn to let slower riders know I need to pass, lol. Also, yea, it seems like tubeless may not be the way to go on these....
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Old 10-22-20, 10:15 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
To be fair, one guy in the Q&A says it's not "tubeless compatible", however several other people comment stating they are running them tubeless. Regarding carbon tubeless wheels, yea, I didn't know that at the time. Do you know if aluminum wheels can be converted to tubeless without being "tubeless ready/compatible"?
Iíve successfully done so with my old Mavic Ksyriums. Aluminum and carbon have very different material properties. Aluminum is uniformly strong in every direction whereas carbon is on strong in certain directions (think splitting wood along the grain). Therefore more intentional design is needed to make them tubeless.

See Rovalís new Rapide CLX. They intentionally made it non tubeless to save on weight.
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Old 10-22-20, 10:19 AM
  #30  
Nixhex
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Originally Posted by jockstick View Post
Iíve successfully done so with my old Mavic Ksyriums. Aluminum and carbon have very different material properties. Aluminum is uniformly strong in every direction whereas carbon is on strong in certain directions (think splitting wood along the grain). Therefore more intentional design is needed to make them tubeless.

See Rovalís new Rapide CLX. They intentionally made it non tubeless to save on weight.
Makes sense, just hadn't really thought about it.
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Old 10-22-20, 10:35 AM
  #31  
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Oh, we're talkin' ghetto tubeless. Yeah, that's a horse of a different color. I'd stick with tubes.
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Old 10-22-20, 11:30 AM
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$369 (shipping included) for tubeless, deep carbon wheels that failed after one month. Live and learn ...
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Old 10-22-20, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
$369 (shipping included) for tubeless, deep carbon wheels that failed after one month. Live and learn ...
They're not marketed as tubeless compatible, from what has been reported in this thread.
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Old 10-22-20, 11:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
$369 (shipping included) for tubeless, deep carbon wheels that failed after one month. Live and learn ...
Hey, man, super helpful! Thanks for the reply!

But in all seriousness, there are many people running these with no issues. I have a hunch that it was my attempt at tubeless that did them in. But whether you want to blame that on the wheels or me, I'll leave up to you.
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Old 10-22-20, 11:49 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
Hey, man, super helpful! Thanks for the reply!

But in all seriousness, there are many people running these with no issues. I have a hunch that it was my attempt at tubeless that did them in. But whether you want to blame that on the wheels or me, I'll leave up to you.
You find it offensive that I suggested that there is something to be learned from your experience?
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Old 10-22-20, 11:55 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
You find it offensive that I suggested that there is something to be learned from your experience?
Not outright. Just meeting sarcasm with more sarcasm. I think it would be a bit shortsighted to simply chalk this entire experience up as a loss based on the price of the wheel as these wheels are generally regarded as decent quality without many issues.

Though I do think learning from the experience is a good idea.
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Old 10-22-20, 02:31 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
Not outright. Just meeting sarcasm with more sarcasm.
My post was not meant to be sarcastic.
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Old 10-22-20, 02:33 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
My post was not meant to be sarcastic.
Well no harm, no foul. No bitterness on my part.
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Old 10-22-20, 04:42 PM
  #39  
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So I had a set of Superteam 50mm wheels the same as yours. I had them on tubes for a month but wanted to run tubeless so started setting them up. When setting the beed I got to about 80 psi and the wheel literally exploded. They replaced it under warranty but shipping was like 100 bucks, it really wasn't all that much of a replacement lol. I ended up setting them up with tubes again and sold the bike without riding them after that. I have FFWD and Reynolds wheels now and I would never go back to Superteam wheels but that is just me. I found out the hard way that I don't want cheap wheels on my bikes.
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Old 10-22-20, 07:28 PM
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I'd really like to see a photo of the failure.

And +1 on drain holes. I live in a tropical climate so I have always put drain holes on all my carbon rims. It's never been an issue.
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Old 10-23-20, 07:23 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by InvertedMP View Post
So I had a set of Superteam 50mm wheels the same as yours. I had them on tubes for a month but wanted to run tubeless so started setting them up. When setting the beed I got to about 80 psi and the wheel literally exploded. They replaced it under warranty but shipping was like 100 bucks, it really wasn't all that much of a replacement lol. I ended up setting them up with tubes again and sold the bike without riding them after that. I have FFWD and Reynolds wheels now and I would never go back to Superteam wheels but that is just me. I found out the hard way that I don't want cheap wheels on my bikes.
At the very least it sounds like these superteams shouldn't be run tubeless.... But yea, I believe I'll be going back to my plain jane aluminum wheels and selling these Superteams once I get the replacement.

I finally was able to get some pictures last night. It's a really small crank, but it does appear to be between the layup that makes up the inner portion and the wall of the wheel, so I'm inclined to agree with November Dave's theory.



Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina View Post
And +1 on drain holes. I live in a tropical climate so I have always put drain holes on all my carbon rims. It's never been an issue.
Bob, are you drilling the drain holes yourself? If so, what size, and where on the rim?

Last edited by Nixhex; 10-23-20 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 10-23-20, 08:37 AM
  #42  
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It's kind of hard to see, but that doesn't look like the profile of a tubeless compatible rim. If the rim bed doesn't have a well running down the middle of the rim bed, and clearly defined shoulders above, there's no way I'd attempt to run them tubeless.
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Old 10-23-20, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
It's kind of hard to see, but that doesn't look like the profile of a tubeless compatible rim. If the rim bed doesn't have a well running down the middle of the rim bed, and clearly defined shoulders above, there's no way I'd attempt to run them tubeless.
+1

definitely doesnít look like a tubeless rim.
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Old 10-23-20, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
It's kind of hard to see, but that doesn't look like the profile of a tubeless compatible rim. If the rim bed doesn't have a well running down the middle of the rim bed, and clearly defined shoulders above, there's no way I'd attempt to run them tubeless.
I certainly wont be trying these again tubeless. That said, isn't Stan's entire business based on converting any old rim to tubeless with just some tape and sealant? Specifically I have a set of nicer aluminum wheels I'd like to try tubeless on.

Last edited by Nixhex; 10-23-20 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 10-23-20, 08:53 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
That said, isn't Stan's entire business based on converting any old rim to tubeless with just some tape and sealant?
No. Also, Stan's is primarily suitable for MTB, I wouldn't recommend looking to them for road tubeless.
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Old 10-23-20, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
I certainly wont be trying these again tubeless. That said, isn't Stan's entire business based on converting any old rim to tubeless with just some tape and sealant? Specifically I have a set of nicer aluminum wheels I'd like to try tubeless on.
See previous -

Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
If the rim bed doesn't have a well running down the middle of the rim bed, and clearly defined shoulders above, there's no way I'd attempt to run them tubeless.
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Old 10-23-20, 10:56 PM
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That's could also be a flow issue.

Depending on how they fold or end the prepreg at that lip, it can be difficult to get a good flow to the very edge of the rim. This can be caused by drifting in the mold, temp/time not being managed right or the layup itself.

We saw this happen A LOT from one vendor who changed to higher TQ resins but hadn't learned how to manage the bake, quite yet.
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Old 10-23-20, 11:01 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
Bob, are you drilling the drain holes yourself? If so, what size, and where on the rim?
Yes, I just hand drill them myself with my trusty Dremel. I can't remember what size the bit is (I've used the same one for years). A 1mm hole certainly would be a good start (but you could start smaller and work up if you needed to). There's no way that would impact the rim structure but it helps with drainage. I drill 2 at opposite sides of the rim, as close to the rim bed as possible,
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Last edited by Bob Dopolina; 10-23-20 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 10-24-20, 12:53 PM
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Doesn't look like tubeless rim tape either?
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Old 10-24-20, 02:41 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Nixhex View Post
I use the tape that was in there based on an answer in the "questions" stating it was tubeless tape. However, I'm pretty sure that is not the case now.... That said, if the only difference between me and a compromised wheel is the seal between tape and wheel, I think I may bail and run clinchers.
Yeah, those wheels are NOT tubeless comparable and I would not use them without a tube. Honesty, it is pretty good of them to warranty them under the circumstance.
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