Busted Carbon Rim - Thoughts?
10-24-20, 02:45 PM
#51
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Yea, I have no complaints about the vendor. Looks like they're going to ship me another wheel no questions asked. And honestly given the failure, it sounds like it's my screw up that caused it.
10-24-20, 06:51 PM
#52
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FWIW, I bought a set of these earlier this summer and understood them not to be tubeless compatible (which it looks like you are now not going to try). Mine have 2500+ miles on them with no problems. Well, the rear hub, as others have noted is LOUD, but they ride well. I've been happy with the purchase. I have a friend with a set - he's the one who recommended them to me - with a similar opinion. He loves his. I also found the vendor to be very responsive to questions.
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10-26-20, 07:35 AM
#53
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For instance - this set is specifically listed as tubeless ready:https://www.amazon.com/Superteam-Car.../dp/B07RFFWVVL
I went back and looked at the description on the set I ordered, and it does not actually say anything about being tubeless ready, so maybe I just assumed it was (which seems like is the case with most wheels these days).
10-26-20, 07:51 AM
#54
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Yea, they've been easy to work with. It wasn't so much the different listings as it was the comments talking about tubeless that got me on that track.
I haven't decided if I'm going to keep them and run them with tubes, or sell them and get a shallower set of aluminum wheels. I can't really decide if I like the look on my steel frame bike. It's an '03 Specialized Allez Cr-mo and the deep sections wheels look takes some getting used to on it.
I haven't decided if I'm going to keep them and run them with tubes, or sell them and get a shallower set of aluminum wheels. I can't really decide if I like the look on my steel frame bike. It's an '03 Specialized Allez Cr-mo and the deep sections wheels look takes some getting used to on it.
10-26-20, 09:40 AM
#55
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Yea, they've been easy to work with. It wasn't so much the different listings as it was the comments talking about tubeless that got me on that track.
I haven't decided if I'm going to keep them and run them with tubes, or sell them and get a shallower set of aluminum wheels. I can't really decide if I like the look on my steel frame bike. It's an '03 Specialized Allez Cr-mo and the deep sections wheels look takes some getting used to on it.
I haven't decided if I'm going to keep them and run them with tubes, or sell them and get a shallower set of aluminum wheels. I can't really decide if I like the look on my steel frame bike. It's an '03 Specialized Allez Cr-mo and the deep sections wheels look takes some getting used to on it.
10-26-20, 10:05 AM
#56
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I'd like to go to a SRAM 1x11 setup in the future so that's also a consideration in the wheelset I use. I already have an older set of Roval Fusee SL 25 wheels that are 1538g (but not sure if they can be converted to 11 speed; see this thread I posted here), and I have a buddy who will sell me some Vuelta Corsa Lite's with 11 speed hub, including cassette and a set of tires for $150.
10-26-20, 12:14 PM
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To clarify, on the Campy/Fulcrum wheels, you do mean aluminum, correct? Any specific models I should look at? Like many in 2020, I'm new to road cycling.... So I don't really know all the brands yet.
I'd like to go to a SRAM 1x11 setup in the future so that's also a consideration in the wheelset I use. I already have an older set of Roval Fusee SL 25 wheels that are 1538g (but not sure if they can be converted to 11 speed; see this thread I posted here), and I have a buddy who will sell me some Vuelta Corsa Lite's with 11 speed hub, including cassette and a set of tires for $150.
I'd like to go to a SRAM 1x11 setup in the future so that's also a consideration in the wheelset I use. I already have an older set of Roval Fusee SL 25 wheels that are 1538g (but not sure if they can be converted to 11 speed; see this thread I posted here), and I have a buddy who will sell me some Vuelta Corsa Lite's with 11 speed hub, including cassette and a set of tires for $150.
Just the thought of the the brakes wearing down the rim at that spot over time, and the heat that is generated on the brake track at times. More paranoia on my part. Would assume they beef that area up to deal with those stresses.
10-26-20, 12:19 PM
#59
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Yes, both are aluminum. The Roval wheels you have sound like they could work as do the Vuelta's. $150 for the Vuelta's with a cassette and tires is a pretty darn good deal (assuming everything is in good shape!).
Just the thought of the the brakes wearing down the rim at that spot over time, and the heat that is generated on the brake track at times. More paranoia on my part. Would assume they beef that area up to deal with those stresses.
Just the thought of the the brakes wearing down the rim at that spot over time, and the heat that is generated on the brake track at times. More paranoia on my part. Would assume they beef that area up to deal with those stresses.
Also, check out this video from Peak Torque on YT, where he talks about carbon clincher failures at the brake track. It addresses what you're talking about.
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10-26-20, 12:28 PM
#60
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It's only an issue for carbon rims and the lack of heat dissipation, plus the carbon softening due to high temperature. But that's just as true for clincher rims. The only differences between tubeless and older clinchers is the added shelf to lock the bead in place. But that's in the well of the rim, not in a location prone to wear.
10-26-20, 12:32 PM
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Also, check out this video from Peak Torque on YT, where he talks about carbon clincher failures at the brake track. It addresses what you're talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O95...nel=PeakTorque.
10-26-20, 12:37 PM
#62
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10-26-20, 02:20 PM
#63
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It's only an issue for carbon rims and the lack of heat dissipation, plus the carbon softening due to high temperature. But that's just as true for clincher rims. The only differences between tubeless and older clinchers is the added shelf to lock the bead in place. But that's in the well of the rim, not in a location prone to wear.
10-26-20, 07:21 PM
#64
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I mean how do you think the water got in?
Last edited by nycphotography; 10-27-20 at 02:27 PM.
10-26-20, 08:48 PM
#65
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Yeah, I'd say your experience with the rear confirms what I thought about the front. At the very least you need to replace the tape as it's compromised.
I would at least ask the vendor about drilling a drain hole. Rims have lots of holes in them already, and there are plenty of places on a rim that don't see much if any loading. A small pin hole place correctly should not affect the rim.
This is an issue that we've heard of just recently, and I believe that we will be spec'ing our rims with drain holes in the future just to be safe. We're investigating it.
Though tubeless and carbon rims have gone together for a long time, there is always the chance for new and "interesting" issues as adoption gets more widespread.
I would at least ask the vendor about drilling a drain hole. Rims have lots of holes in them already, and there are plenty of places on a rim that don't see much if any loading. A small pin hole place correctly should not affect the rim.
This is an issue that we've heard of just recently, and I believe that we will be spec'ing our rims with drain holes in the future just to be safe. We're investigating it.
Though tubeless and carbon rims have gone together for a long time, there is always the chance for new and "interesting" issues as adoption gets more widespread.
https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/12/env...-from-popping/
10-27-20, 07:14 AM
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Enve has a fluted pressure relief lock nut to the same effect as drilling a hole.
https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/12/env...-from-popping/
https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/12/env...-from-popping/
Now that I've seen the OP's wheel, I'm not sure that air pressure caused that. It just doesn't look like the others I'd seen. It looks like a void or flaw in the molding. That's a difficult area to mold correctly.
To follow up on my conversations with our manufacturer about air pressure issues, they've tested it and haven't been able to explode a rim through air pressure. Spoke holes start to leak air and the rim itself has enough porosity to regulate air pressure in their tests, so it looks like we're sticking without any holes.
10-27-20, 07:17 AM
#67
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To the OP, get the replacement wheel and run them. Lots of people love them. I did a bunch of research on them before I bought my set. Just run them with tubes and inspect regularly.
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10-27-20, 09:15 AM
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If you don't care about that, then there are definitely plenty of alloy options for similar price/weight that are arguably a less risky purchase.
It's also worth noting that in the context of cycling related purchases, $350 is not very much money. In my case, it was an easy way to try out carbon wheels without investing thousands of dollars. After riding them for 6 months or so I'd have no hesitation on buying another set, but I do not expect these to last forever.
I have been shopping for a new wheelset for my CX bike and am torn between spending $1200ish on a set of reliable and lightweight alloy wheels that will last a lifetime, or just buying another set of cheap generic carbon wheels, knowing that I'm rolling the dice on a $350-$500 purchase. On that bike I don't care about aero as much, and would be running tire sizes larger than the rim anyway, so the aero benefits are negated, but they do still look cool.
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10-27-20, 09:24 AM
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A little over a month ago I bought a set of Superteam Carbon 50mm deep wheels (these: Amazon: Superteam Carbon Wheels) and rode them for a few hundred miles with some specialized clincher tires, nbd. The specialized tires were a used pair I had, and they were getting a bit worn out, so I pulled them off the wheels and popped on a set of Schwalbe pro one tubeless tires. I seated them with one of those air dump tanks you pump up, and they seated fine. So I went to pump the front tire up with my track pump, and they're pinging and thumping as the tire is popping onto the bead, but when I hit ~50 psi something cracked and the air rushed out.... I looked over the wheel, and the wheel itself actually cracked between the tire and braking surface; it looks like several of the carbon layers separated.
So that wheel is ruined. I'm 2 days outside my 30 day Amazon return policy so I contacted the seller, and to be quite clear, they emailed me back promptly, and it looks like they're going to cover it under warranty.
But my question is, what should I do going forward? The tubeless tires were installed with little to no fuss, using park tool plastic levers, so definitely nothing out of the ordinary. These wheels are really highly reviewed and lots of people are using them with no issues. Many have set them up tubeless and are happy. However, even if I get a replacement wheel, I'm not sure I want to ride something that fragile.
So that wheel is ruined. I'm 2 days outside my 30 day Amazon return policy so I contacted the seller, and to be quite clear, they emailed me back promptly, and it looks like they're going to cover it under warranty.
But my question is, what should I do going forward? The tubeless tires were installed with little to no fuss, using park tool plastic levers, so definitely nothing out of the ordinary. These wheels are really highly reviewed and lots of people are using them with no issues. Many have set them up tubeless and are happy. However, even if I get a replacement wheel, I'm not sure I want to ride something that fragile.
- Should I chalk it up to a defect with this one wheel, and give them another shot?
- Should I ditch the tubeless tires and run a set of clinchers and be happy?
- Should I sell this set (once I get a replacement front), and stick with tried and true aluminum (because I can't afford a brand name set of carbon wheels)
Low price doesn't always equal to lower quality, but in that case, I'd say it is.
10-27-20, 09:36 AM
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What did you expect from a 400$ set of CF wheels...? I mean, even a good set of alloy wheels will run you more than that. I'd sell them & stick with a good set of alloy wheels or try your luck on kijiji, craigslist or marketplace for a used branded set of CF wheel.
Low price doesn't always equal to lower quality, but in that case, I'd say it is.
Low price doesn't always equal to lower quality, but in that case, I'd say it is.
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10-27-20, 09:39 AM
#71
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What did you expect from a 400$ set of CF wheels...? I mean, even a good set of alloy wheels will run you more than that. I'd sell them & stick with a good set of alloy wheels or try your luck on kijiji, craigslist or marketplace for a used branded set of CF wheel.
Low price doesn't always equal to lower quality, but in that case, I'd say it is.
Low price doesn't always equal to lower quality, but in that case, I'd say it is.
Here's a pic of the bike with the Rovals. Forgive the saddle bag....
10-27-20, 09:50 AM
#72
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I think the selling point of cheap Chinese carbon wheels is that they are carbon, so you can get a deep section aero wheel for the same price/weight as shallow section alloy wheels.
If you don't care about that, then there are definitely plenty of alloy options for similar price/weight that are arguably a less risky purchase.
It's also worth noting that in the context of cycling related purchases, $350 is not very much money. In my case, it was an easy way to try out carbon wheels without investing thousands of dollars. After riding them for 6 months or so I'd have no hesitation on buying another set, but I do not expect these to last forever.
I have been shopping for a new wheelset for my CX bike and am torn between spending $1200ish on a set of reliable and lightweight alloy wheels that will last a lifetime, or just buying another set of cheap generic carbon wheels, knowing that I'm rolling the dice on a $350-$500 purchase. On that bike I don't care about aero as much, and would be running tire sizes larger than the rim anyway, so the aero benefits are negated, but they do still look cool.
If you don't care about that, then there are definitely plenty of alloy options for similar price/weight that are arguably a less risky purchase.
It's also worth noting that in the context of cycling related purchases, $350 is not very much money. In my case, it was an easy way to try out carbon wheels without investing thousands of dollars. After riding them for 6 months or so I'd have no hesitation on buying another set, but I do not expect these to last forever.
I have been shopping for a new wheelset for my CX bike and am torn between spending $1200ish on a set of reliable and lightweight alloy wheels that will last a lifetime, or just buying another set of cheap generic carbon wheels, knowing that I'm rolling the dice on a $350-$500 purchase. On that bike I don't care about aero as much, and would be running tire sizes larger than the rim anyway, so the aero benefits are negated, but they do still look cool.
I will say that I have used LB wheels on my MTB for a long, long time. Close to 10 years and I have abused the heck out of them. Broken a few rear spokes but that is about it. Would recommend them to anyone. If my ICAN wheels stay the way they are for the next 3-4 years (15-20K miles), I will do the same for them.
10-27-20, 09:51 AM
#73
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I think I'd be comfortable running these with tubes, but since I'm at a crossroads, I think it may be the looks that are the determining factor for me since I didn't seem to notice any speed benefits from the deep section. I'm not saying there absolutely wasn't a speed benefit, but if it's not abundantly apparent, then it's probably not enough to worry about. So I'll prob go back with some alloy wheels as I think they fit the look of the bike better.
Here's a pic of the bike with the Rovals. Forgive the saddle bag....
Here's a pic of the bike with the Rovals. Forgive the saddle bag....
ps. Nice looking bike and like the bag.
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10-27-20, 12:47 PM
#74
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Disc brakes have changed the math on "budget" carbon rims, but you still couldn't pay me to ride budget rim brake rims. Beyond what November Dave mentioned, trusting the manufacturers to get the materials for the brake track right is asking a lot. Something to be said for perceived vs actual risk, but these rims/wheels don't seem worth the reward.
