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>43.5mm Stack Height for 1" threaded fork?

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>43.5mm Stack Height for 1" threaded fork?

Old 11-12-20, 08:21 PM
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avhed
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>43.5mm Stack Height for 1" threaded fork?

Is there aluminum models with 44mm or more?

Last edited by avhed; 01-29-21 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 11-13-20, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by avhed View Post
Is there any 44mm or more?
not sure what you’re asking. Are you looking for a taller headset because the threaded section of your steerer is too long? Could you put some spacers between the top cup and the lock ring?
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Old 11-13-20, 09:49 AM
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Any what?

You talking about the stack of the nuts and washers on top your headset? I suppose you could put a thicker washer or add a spacer. Still, you'd have to find an old style stem that will have a long enough vertical post to get the wedge below the bearings.

Or get an old vintage frame with one of those hellatiously long head tubes.
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Old 11-13-20, 01:36 PM
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I'm not aware of any 1" threaded headset with a stack height over 42mm. But why do you need such a beast? If the steer tube is too long for the current headset, either trim it or stick some spacers between the threaded cup and the lock nut, as others have suggested above.

Or are we missing some other concern of yours?
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Old 11-13-20, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
I'm not aware of any 1" threaded headset with a stack height over 42mm. But why do you need such a beast? If the steer tube is too long for the current headset, either trim it or stick some spacers between the threaded cup and the lock nut, as others have suggested above.

Or are we missing some other concern of yours?
I want a riding position that is a little higher. I may used a 5mm Rene Herse Spacer but past that a higher headset looks better. Campagnolo had nice headsets at 42.1mm.

Last edited by avhed; 11-20-20 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 11-14-20, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by avhed View Post
I want a riding position that is a little higher. I may used a 5mm Rene Herse Spacer but past that a higher headset looks better. Campagnolo had nice headsets at 42.5mm.
Threaded forks typically use a quill type stem; handlebar height is set by adjusting the stem in the steer tube, not by adding spacers to the headset. Take care not to raise the stem above the minimum insertion line. If you need the handlebar higher than what your stem allows, longer stems, e.g. the Nitto Technomic, can provide this.
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Old 11-14-20, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by avhed View Post
I want a riding position that is a little higher. I may used a 5mm Rene Herse Spacer but past that a higher headset looks better. Campagnolo had nice headsets at 42.5mm.
then raise the stem.
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Old 11-20-20, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
I'm not aware of any 1" threaded headset with a stack height over 42mm. But why do you need such a beast? If the steer tube is too long for the current headset, either trim it or stick some spacers between the threaded cup and the lock nut, as others have suggested above.

Or are we missing some other concern of yours?
IRD Double Roller Drive= 40.7- I included this one even though its below a 42 stack height. There is not much nutted area up top so when adding the Rene Herse Spacer it would still look good. A needle bearing (bottom race only) still made by Tange Seiki. $100, 110g
Saavedra Super Competicion = ~42 with needle bearings and seal 1980s to ?
There is also a
Super Saavedra thats a C Record Clone but with needle bearings
Velo Orange Grande Cru = 42.0 still made, sealed bearing cartridge. $52 115g
Origin 8 Pro-Fit = 42.5 still made, chunky looking but @ $39 120g
Suntour HS-SA00, Sprint 9000= 42.5 1987-1990 120g
Stronglight B-10, 1984-86 =43 the black delrin is very light, but a ugly mix with the silver aluminum. It would be decent all black.
Chris King 1980s headset=43.5 very expensive seal bearing
Tange-Sekei G-Master 2000=45 1980s-2000s Has a ugly top nut.126 g

The stem is all the way up. I do not want to use the ugly Technomatic. I want to add a 5mm spacer to the largest stack height to keep a nice look.

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Old 11-21-20, 09:48 AM
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You could convert it to a 1" threadless headset and just have the steerer tube of the fork extended. Then you won't be limited by other things like total steerer tube length or having to find one of those old "7" style stems that are long enough to get the wedge below the top headset bearing.

It's not difficult for a welder to cut off the steerer tube a few inches above the fork and then using an inside union, braze a longer section of non-threaded tube onto it.

Of course it's going to require more parts, but they'll be easier to come by. The pista type stem will let you change bars easier or stem length easier with less hassle.

Seems a better topic for the mechanics section though. Maybe framebuilders.
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Old 11-21-20, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by avhed View Post
Stronglight B-10, C-11(Delrin) =43
Tange Falcon (Steel)=43.5
Chris King 1980s headset=43.5
Tange-Sekei G-Master 2000=44

The stem is all the way up. I do not want to use the ugly Technomatic. I want to add a 5mm spacer to the largest stack height to keep a nice look.
Adding another 5mm of spacers won't make your steerer any longer, and that's what matters for the stem. Add another 5mm of spacers and maybe the top nut of the spacer won't even thread on, let alone actually have enough purchase work properly.
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Old 11-21-20, 07:34 PM
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I purchased a slighty smaller high end frame (55.5 cm c-t-c) that had a mismatched fork. The fork is for a low end frame, so I bought a nice fork for it. The fork happens to be for a 58cm frame, and I like to keep it long enough for a 57cm frame in case I want to put the fork on a 57cm frame in the future.
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Old 11-21-20, 09:35 PM
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Okay, so are you saying that the steerer is too long for the headset? Can't you just add spacers between the nuts? That's what the wrench did with my Battaglin, where the steerer was too long for the Chris King headset without spacers.
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Old 11-24-20, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
You could convert it to a 1" threadless headset and just have the steerer tube of the fork extended. Then you won't be limited by other things like total steerer tube length or having to find one of those old "7" style stems that are long enough to get the wedge below the top headset bearing.

It's not difficult for a welder to cut off the steerer tube a few inches above the fork and then using an inside union, braze a longer section of non-threaded tube onto it.

Of course it's going to require more parts, but they'll be easier to come by. The pista type stem will let you change bars easier or stem length easier with less hassle.

Seems a better topic for the mechanics section though. Maybe framebuilders.
Is the extended section brazed on the inside of the steerer? If so wouldn't that make it too small in diameter?
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Old 11-25-20, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by avhed View Post
Is the extended section brazed on the inside of the steerer? If so wouldn't that make it too small in diameter?
You use the same diameter steerer tube. It can be from an old fork if you have one. Just make certain the internal and external diameters are the same.

I'd cut the tube off the fork you are going to use somewhere about midway up the top tube. Using a 1-1/2" section of the drop you can make an internal couple to fit inside the new and remaining steerer tube. If you make a cut completely up one side, you should be able to squeeze it to a smaller diameter. An angle grinder might give you just the right width on the cut to allow it to be put inside the tube remaining on the fork with half sticking out and then put the new length of steerer tube on that. Braze it all up with silver solder or brass. Dress down the tubes where they were brazed and everything should fit and likely be as strong as a steerer that wasn't cut.

It's what I was going to do for my old Raleigh just before I decided to get a new bike instead. All the welder friends of mine said it seemed a good way and several posts from others, including frame builders suggested the same to other people with that question.

Last edited by Iride01; 11-25-20 at 11:52 AM.
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