Originally Posted by cubewheels (Post 21836473)

The biggest compromise of 1x is losing the top end speed.

Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21836573)

Spinning out in the 50/10, eh? Yeah, me too.

Originally Posted by cubewheels (Post 21836676)

We're talking about gravel bikes so a 50T ring didn't cross my mind at all. I was thinking more of a 36T or less.

Originally Posted by growlerdinky (Post 21837419)

i hate to be the one to do this, but could we please keep it on topic? This thread is about shifting into the small ring, not removing it entirely from the system.



Please stop attempting to hijack this sublime thread.




EDIT: Yes, I know that you could be talking about removing the big ring. Don't get smart.

Originally Posted by DaveSSS (Post 21828051)

I've been using a 16T difference at the crank since since 2008. I have no issues with the compensating shifts. If the shift is timed right, where your cadence has dropped from the climb, you can shift to the little ring with no compensating shifts. It all depends on how quickly the grade is increasing. I rarely need a 3 sprocket shift. If the change in grade is slow, and you shift well ahead of need, shifting 2 sprockets smaller immediately before the shift to the little ring can work, but on a fast increase, you can get bogged down and have a poor chain ring shift.

I'm not impressed at all with electronic sequential or compensating shift modes because it contributes to chain drops and can make unwanted chain ring shifts. I use SRAM force axs 12 speed and never use the compensating or sequential modes. I limit my shifts to 2 sprockets if I hold the shift lever, there's no over compensating. I also don't use a sram crank because I want the extra range of a 16T difference.

Originally Posted by JoeO (Post 21833405)

When it comes time for it, first upshift one ring in the rear immediately followed by the downshift up front immediately followed by another upshift in the rear. As rapidly in succession as you can. With practice this becomes really smooth.

And if you are running 50/34 up front consider replacing the 34 with a 36...
.

Originally Posted by growlerdinky (Post 21837419)

i hate to be the one to do this, but could we please keep it on topic?

Originally Posted by tomato coupe (Post 21838701)

Why? Several solutions to the OP's problem were offered early on page 1. There's no new "on topic" advice to add.

Originally Posted by ls01 (Post 21838205)

I was thinking similar, but move to a 48 34,

Originally Posted by ls01 (Post 21838176)

Dave how did you work around the oversized rollers in the chain if you are running a different crank?
I have sram axs force also, I was not happy when I learned of all the proprietary changes sram made on this groupset.

Originally Posted by DaveSSS (Post 21836976)

The reason to use a 1x setup on a gravel bike is to avoid chain drops, just like an MTB. Sram has a 12 speed 1x gravel setup with 36-46 chain rings and up to a 10-36 cassette.

Campy's 13 speed offers chain rings of 38 to 44 to go with the 9-36, 9-42 and 10-44 cassettes.

https://www.campagnolo.com/US/en/Mec...s/ekar/gravel2

Originally Posted by JoeO (Post 21842431)

This can't be the main reason can it? Any decent chain catcher will prevent chain drops. No need to lose all the extra gearing for it.

Originally Posted by DaveSSS (Post 21842605)

You're probably thinking of chain drops that occur while shifting. On really rough terrain, the chain can drop just from all the bouncing around. Single chain rings are wide/narrow to aid in retention and some use additional chain retention devices on top of that. MTB and gravel don't interest me, so I'm no expert, but that's why MTBs have 10-52 cassettes. They have a 520% range. I've got 552% with closer sprocket spacing, with a 10-36.

Do you see any double or triple cranks here? https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...-bikes/c/B511/

Originally Posted by JoeO (Post 21842753)

Yeah but I thought we were talking about road bikes here?

In the 20-or-so years I've ridden a road bike with a chain catcher, I've never once dropped a chain. There's nowhere for it to go.

Edited to add: I do understand other reasons why someone might want 1x on a road bike. No front shifts at all means none of that big change in gears that causes us all to be careful about shifting up front. I just don't understand why dropping a chain would be one of them. There's no need on a road bike

Originally Posted by mcours2006 (Post 21826978)

Are you shifting them simultaneously? Because that's what I usually do and I've never had problems with spinning. I can dump three gears on the back with three quick clicks of the shifter, though I do ease up on the pedal for a fraction of a second to allow for this to happen smoothly. During this split second my legs are spinning at the rate that I think I ought to be in once the gears engage, and once they do engage you are right there. Sounds like a lot, but it's really only a fraction of a second for it to happen. It does take some practice. It doesn't matter if it's 53/39, 52/36, 50/34, 46/36, 50/39/28...I have all of these.

Originally Posted by Het Volk (Post 21856555)

Yeah - usually learn to shift to the small ring before you actually need to. In other words, before the the big ring becomes too difficult or uncomfortable, and where you have enough momentum that you can kind of stop pedaling (or soft pedal it) while you adjust the RD before dropping into the small ring.

Or - with modern drive trains, just learn to always ride the big ring. Cross chaining is less of an issue nowadays, and rear cassettes large enough that you are not mashing the gears when in a 53 x 28 (might be a little different if in a 10/11/12 speed crit cassette on the back).