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Tiagra FC-4700 vs 105 FC-5800 Chainring Compatibility

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Tiagra FC-4700 vs 105 FC-5800 Chainring Compatibility

Old 12-15-20, 03:53 AM
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spilot101
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Tiagra FC-4700 vs 105 FC-5800 Chainring Compatibility

Greetings. I'm thinking about replacing my 4700's outer chainring (Tiagra 4700 110mm 50-34T 10spd) - it appears to be pretty beat up after just 4000km...surprisingly - and I found a slightly cheaper 105 version. (1) So I'm curious, can the 105 FC-5800 110mm 50-34T 11spd be used instead... and is there really a difference when it comes to outer rings in terms 10 vs 11 speed (given the other specs are the same)? I'm still in the learning stage, as you can tell.

(2) In the back, I have the Shimano HG500 11-34 10s cassette. Would this be compatible with any of the above-mentioned variations?

Cheers!

Last edited by spilot101; 12-19-20 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 12-15-20, 07:56 AM
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To the best of my knowledge the parts are interchangeable. The 105 might be a fraction of a fraction of a millimeter thinner, but should work just fine with the 10-speed chain.

Changing the gearing has nothing to do with compatibility. it is all about gearing. Every gear will be a little higher with the larger rings. Do you like your current gearing? Do you frequently ride in the top portion of the cassette and with you had higher gears? or do you frequently get into the lower portion of the cassette in the small ring and are glad for the lower gearing when climbing?

If you get a bigger chain ring you might need to add links to the chain. The rear derailleur shouldn't be affected no matter what.

Everything I said here could be wrong.
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Old 12-15-20, 10:25 AM
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Such shameful behavior! <grin>

Chainrings compatibility

double posting. At least you changed up the title.
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Old 12-16-20, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
To the best of my knowledge the parts are interchangeable. The 105 might be a fraction of a fraction of a millimeter thinner, but should work just fine with the 10-speed chain.

Changing the gearing has nothing to do with compatibility. it is all about gearing. Every gear will be a little higher with the larger rings. Do you like your current gearing? Do you frequently ride in the top portion of the cassette and with you had higher gears? or do you frequently get into the lower portion of the cassette in the small ring and are glad for the lower gearing when climbing?

If you get a bigger chain ring you might need to add links to the chain. The rear derailleur shouldn't be affected no matter what.

Everything I said here could be wrong.
Thank you, and I think you're spot on. This is coming from a Shimano expert:

"A 52/36 with 11-34 can be used but it is not recommended by Shimano. The chain will need to be longer to accommodate this and will cause a bit of chain slap when using the 36 ring on the front and the higher gears on the rear. In short yes, it will work but will work better with a 32t cassette"
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Old 12-16-20, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
Such shameful behavior! <grin>

double posting. At least you changed up the title.
Guilty as charged

To my defense, I didn't see the "Mechanical" forum until later, so thought it would be more appropriate to post it there before the mods came down on me.
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Old 12-17-20, 09:33 PM
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Switching the ring for 105 is a good move; that Tiagra ring is an absolute boat anchor.
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Old 12-17-20, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Switching the ring for 105 is a good move; that Tiagra ring is an absolute boat anchor.
Is that right? I'm curious, in what sense...? Perhaps this might explain why it looks so beat up, already, after just 4,000km...

Mine vs...

the new one

Will keep it in mind, thanks.

Last edited by spilot101; 12-17-20 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 12-17-20, 11:45 PM
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Another interesting detail I noticed with my "basic model" Endurace is that Canyon cheaped out by going with the KMC chain, instead of a Shimano one. Supposedly, the Shimano chains run smoother (with Shimano rings , which makes sense).... But I can't complain about a $970 bike, I suppose ... which still gets me a KOM, here and there.
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Old 12-20-20, 12:09 PM
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105 likely will fit, but it may look odd on account of different shaping of the arms.
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Old 12-20-20, 04:22 PM
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What the heck is going on to do that in 4000km?
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Old 12-23-20, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by spilot101 View Post
Is that right? I'm curious, in what sense...? Perhaps this might explain why it looks so beat up, already, after just 4,000km...

Mine vs...

the new one

Will keep it in mind, thanks.
Hang on, maybe I'm thinking of Sora. It was a four-arm number in steel and plastic that was the boat anchor.

That Tiagra ring looks fine to me - a little bit of bare ally where the anodising has been worn off here and there, totally normal. Perhaps you're mistaking the tooth profiling for wear?
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Old 02-28-21, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post

That Tiagra ring looks fine to me - a little bit of bare ally where the anodising has been worn off here and there, totally normal. Perhaps you're mistaking the tooth profiling for wear?
Thanks!
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Old 02-28-21, 08:41 AM
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How often (KMs) do you replace your chain and does your cassette have similar wear?
Do you spend a lot of KM's grinding in the hills?
I'm no expert but have managed to ruin chainrings in short order and trying to learn from my mistakes.
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Old 03-01-21, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT7RDR View Post
How often (KMs) do you replace your chain and does your cassette have similar wear?
Do you spend a lot of KM's grinding in the hills?
I'm no expert but have managed to ruin chainrings in short order and trying to learn from my mistakes.
I changed my chain in less than 4000km (since i bought this bike). I do suspect that I've done some cross chaining in my early kms. Not whole lotta time on the hills but I've had some. It's definitely been a learning process
Out of curiosity, what's the fastest you've managed to ruin your chainring(s)?
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Old 03-01-21, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT7RDR View Post
How often (KMs) do you replace your chain and does your cassette have similar wear?
Do you spend a lot of KM's grinding in the hills?
I'm no expert but have managed to ruin chainrings in short order and trying to learn from my mistakes.
The thing that causes drivetrain wear is contamination inside the chain, which wears the pins, which elongates the chain, and that's what kills your cogs and rings.

Measure the chain regularly, pin to pin with a ruler. If you ditch your chains before they get to 100.5%, your cassettes and rings will outlast your chains pretty well. Leave it to 100.75\, and you often need a new cassette. Past 101%, your rings start getting chewed up pretty hard.

Always keep your chain lubed, and always keep it wiped as dry as you can be bothered. Poor chain care makes black plates and shiny rollers; you want shiny plates and black rollers. Keeping it clean stops crap sticking to it and working inside. Don't spray stuff at the chain, spray it on the rag. Don't go near it with any emulsifiers like degreasers or detergents, since traces will remain, ready to mix your lube with rain.
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Old 03-01-21, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by spilot101 View Post
I changed my chain in less than 4000km (since i bought this bike). I do suspect that I've done some cross chaining in my early kms. Not whole lotta time on the hills but I've had some. It's definitely been a learning process
Out of curiosity, what's the fastest you've managed to ruin your chainring(s)?
Under 10K miles over two years. Poor maintenance and if memory serves, no chain replacement. Live and learn. That was my first bike in 30 years.
Now I change the chain every 2K miles no matter what. Chains get cleaned and re-lubed every 150 miles. I no longer ride in the wet.
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Old 03-02-21, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT7RDR View Post
I no longer ride in the wet.
It makes a lot of sense to have a rain bike - mudguards number one. Heavier chain lube like Chain-L helps keep water out. I've heard punctures are more likely in the wet, and fixing a flat in the rain sounds crap, so more puncture protection in the tyres... And maybe disc brakes, MTB hubs for more sealing, and so on... I wonder how many points of rain-specific spec you could come up with?
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Old 03-02-21, 08:23 AM
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I have a heavy 29er I use for the wet with urban tire treads. Mudguards help a lot. Problem is there was not a true raining season so far this year in SoCal. I store my bikes inside so I am not too crazy any longer about riding in the wet because I have to clean before bringing in the bike and that might take an hour or longer by itself. I switched to a dry lube and that seems to help keep the drivetrain cleaner in SoCal.

Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
It makes a lot of sense to have a rain bike - mudguards number one. Heavier chain lube like Chain-L helps keep water out. I've heard punctures are more likely in the wet, and fixing a flat in the rain sounds crap, so more puncture protection in the tyres... And maybe disc brakes, MTB hubs for more sealing, and so on... I wonder how many points of rain-specific spec you could come up with?
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