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Addiction 2021.1

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Addiction 2021.1

Old 02-18-21, 12:35 PM
  #6601  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
Bad batch of steel? Just for ***** and giggles, you could put a multi-meter between them and see if there's a voltage.
Bad batch of steel? Or cheap-as 26 year old hub that's never been serviced?
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Old 02-18-21, 12:42 PM
  #6602  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
I've always wanted to get one of the older Cannondale frames and put modern components & carbon fork on it. Especially something like a Black Lightning or any of the models with cantilevered dropouts.

Ever since my mountain bike cracked though, I've become very leery of used aluminum bikes.
Excellent reason not to buy the R600 that guy's dangling at me.

This morning I immunized myself against buying it by letting Mrs. GeneJockey know that I was restoring my old R500 as my winter project, and mentioning that R600 while saying I need another bike like I need a hole in the head. Since she DIDN'T say, "Go ahead! You deserve it!", it has now been moved firmly into the "Don't do that!" category. By contrast, last year when I mentioned that the rear rim on the Bianchi was full of cracks and I wanted to buy a new wheelset, she essentially said, "Well, duh. Of course!"
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Old 02-18-21, 12:50 PM
  #6603  
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize
Yes, that too. But I had an al bike once and wasn't fond of it. I don't know if the bigger tubes make for a nicer ride or not.
Not. Definitely not. Aluminum bikes with small tubes tend to be noodly. The point of the big tubes is to make them stiffer, and you can make bigger tubes with Aluminum than steel because it's so much less dense, so you can have a really stiff frame without a huge weight penalty. Older Cannondales are notoriously stiff, and I REALLY noticed this when I got the Ritchey and rode over the same rides I'd done on the Cannondale. There were some corners on my favorite descent with iffy pavement, and the rear wheel of the C'dale would hop a bit going over those. The Ritchey just carved them, no hop, just a little rumble.

SO, the restored R500 will NOT be used as a mountain goat. Strictly flat and rolling, with only short climbs and short smooth descents. Especially since the largest cassette I can put on it is a 12-25. I can't do 3 miles of 8% on 39 x 25 these days.
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Old 02-18-21, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
Bad batch of steel? Or cheap-as 26 year old hub that's never been serviced?
Why just one cone with all that spalling, then?
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Old 02-18-21, 01:06 PM
  #6605  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
Why just one cone with all that spalling, then?
And only on half of it. Who knows? One thing I noticed was that the non-drive side cone and lock nut might have been a little loose. Don't know if that would do it. As it is, once I eliminated any play in the rim when clamped in the forks, there's still a slight crunchiness, which I hope the new cone will cure.

The Dura Ace hubs on the Ritchey are as old, and have gone thousands of miles more without service, but they're still great. I'm afraid to mess with them, but also afraid not to.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:15 PM
  #6606  
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Where is the censor when you need it?
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People here don't get it.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
And only on half of it.
Likely BF thread: "Is it okay to rest my bike with the wheels in one position for a week or do I need to rotate them periodically?"
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Old 02-18-21, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
Where is the censor when you need it?
Shhhh.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
So pour cold water into freezing cold sewer pipes and what happens?
Pipes almost never pop at the freezing location - expanding ice is an indirect cause of burst pipes, not a direct cause. Rather than the ice swelling and bursting the pipe, it's the ice expanding and pressurizing the water trapped in the line (between the freezing point and a shut-off). Since water doesn't have much squish, it only take a little expansion within a sealed volume to make the line pressure skyrocket to several times the rated pressure of the lines. This is why it's advised to let a faucet drip when there's a danger of freezing pipes - you're not looking to prevent the freezing, you're looking to provide a pressure relief.

None of these things would be a problem in a sewer.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
I need another bike like I need a hole in the head.
This is the source of my current frustration. I want a comfortable, reasonably quick, and reasonably light bike for the upcoming season but I have neither room nor money for another bike. So I am trying to think of the best way to play musical components with the stuff I have. There's no really good options IMO.

The most handwringing I'm doing is due to the replacement fork on the 716. Its' large offset allows for good handling with a handlebar bag but it is shorter than the stock fork and the top tube is ever so slightly sloping downwards. It's been like that all last year and I've never gotten over it.

I could swap back to the stock fork, but the frame has cantilever bosses brazed on for 650b wheels and the stock fork has no bosses and isn't powdercoated to match the frame.

So I either have the stock fork modified with 650b cantilever posts and powdercoated to match, or I slice the canti posts off of the frame and re-powder both frame and fork but have to go back to sidepull brakes. But then I have the option to run the original spec 700c wheels and I seem to remember liking how it rode with the wheels it was designed to run from the factory...imagine that...

But then that leaves the question of what to do with the chrome SLT....

Last edited by abshipp; 02-18-21 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:29 PM
  #6611  
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
You could get rewards.
I've traveled woth folks with reward cards. They become a slave to that card. No thanks.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by abshipp
This is the source of my current frustration. I want a comfortable, reasonably quick, and reasonably light bike for the upcoming season but I have neither room nor money for another bike. So I am trying to think of the best way to play musical components with the stuff I have. There's no really good options IMO.

The most handwringing I'm doing is due to the replacement fork on the 716. Its' large offset allows for good handling with a handlebar bag but it is shorter than the stock fork and the top tube is ever so slightly sloping downwards. It's been like that all last year and I've never gotten over it.

I could swap back to the stock fork, but the frame has cantilever bosses brazed on for 650b wheels and the stock fork has no bosses and isn't powdercoated to match the frame.

So I either have the stock fork modified with 650b cantilever posts and powdercoated to match, or I slice the canti posts off of the frame and re-powder both frame and fork but have to go back to sidepull brakes. But then I have the option to run either 700c or 650b wheels...

But then that leaves the question of what to do with the chrome SLT....
Sell all of them and get the quiver-killing Caledonia.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Pipes almost never pop at the freezing location - expanding ice is an indirect cause of burst pipes, not a direct cause. Rather than the ice swelling and bursting the pipe, it's the ice expanding and pressurizing the water trapped in the line (between the freezing point and a shut-off). Since water doesn't have much squish, it only take a little expansion within a sealed volume to make the line pressure skyrocket to several times the rated pressure of the lines. This is why it's advised to let a faucet drip when there's a danger of freezing pipes - you're not looking to prevent the freezing, you're looking to provide a pressure relief.

None of these things would be a problem in a sewer.
I was thinking more of whatever you flush not making it very far down the pipe before it freezes. Then the next flush freezing on top of it, and so on, eventually blocking the pipe. But of course, I may be full of **** here. Plumbing and electricity I leave to others.

Here in Earthquake Country, that's also dry 8 months or more of the year, you think about what to do if the city water fails and you still need to deal with bodily functions. Hence, Mrs. GeneJockey buying a 5 gal bucket with a toilet seat lid. You line it with a garbage bag. But you can do the same with a toilet. Saves water, because a 1 gallon flush would need 8 lbs of melted snow.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Sell all of them and get the quiver-killing Caledonia.
I'm flattered that you think the heap of old steel in my garage is worth anything close to that

Also, rude of you to make me look and see that the stack/reach of the 61cm frame is basically the same as the 716
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Old 02-18-21, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyD
In the stock photos I see some strange arm-like extension coming off the passenger side mirror . . . What the hell is that?
I assume that's a pic of a snorkel; that's not only not stock but very rare.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
Likely BF thread: "Is it okay to rest my bike with the wheels in one position for a week or do I need to rotate them periodically?"
My understanding is that you actually DO have to do that if you go tubeless.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by big john
Well...the CAAD5 in that picture was extremely stiff with a jarring, jolting ride on rough roads. Great handling bike, other than that. To go the other way I bought the Gunnar and whenever I pulled the CAAD5 out for a ride I wondered how I tolerated it for the 5 years it was my main bike. I sold it cheap to a friend's brother.

After the Gunnar was my main bike for a while I bought the Seven used. It reminds me of the CAAD5. Quick handling, responsive climber, and brutal on the rough stuff.

The Cannondale touring bike was a nice smooth ride. It had a steel fork and long wheelbase with slack angles.
My bike buying days are over. I haven't even ridden in almost two weeks. I find myself wondering if my riding days are over too. I'm not riding much, in part because the drivers in my area become more aggressive by the day. I am the only recreational road rider in 20 miles in one direction, and hundreds of miles in the rest of the directions. Off road or nothing. I get run off the road right here in town.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
My understanding is that you actually DO have to do that if you go tubeless.
I do give my tubeless wheels a spin once a month or something. I've never had them unseal, though.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize
I've traveled woth folks with reward cards. They become a slave to that card. No thanks.
Said folks were doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
People here don't get it.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:45 PM
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Work on the Murphy bed began in earnest over the long weekend. Damn, I just want this thing to be done. Getting close - waiting on the final coat of paint to dry on the cabinet carcass. It's already mounted to the wall seven ways to Sunday, and it's drilled for all of the mounting hardware and assist pistons to secure and articulate the metal frame (which I've already assembled). I should have it functional either tonight or tomorrow and then I can get things squared away and return to a bit of normalcy. I'll probably start on the decorative door panels next week or so, but that won't involve turning the house upside down.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:47 PM
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Anyone else watching today?

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Old 02-18-21, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by abshipp
Nope, but I am watching this.

https://www.nasa.gov/multimedia/nasa...ex.html#public
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
People here don't get it.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
And only on half of it. Who knows? One thing I noticed was that the non-drive side cone and lock nut might have been a little loose. Don't know if that would do it. As it is, once I eliminated any play in the rim when clamped in the forks, there's still a slight crunchiness, which I hope the new cone will cure.

The Dura Ace hubs on the Ritchey are as old, and have gone thousands of miles more without service, but they're still great. I'm afraid to mess with them, but also afraid not to.
I got some old Campy hubs that hadn't been serviced for many years, and not used either. Like a fool I opened them up. Don't do it.
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Old 02-18-21, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
Ah that's a much better feed. YouTube is being very glitchy today.
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Old 02-18-21, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by genejockey
I was thinking more of whatever you flush not making it very far down the pipe before it freezes. Then the next flush freezing on top of it, and so on, eventually blocking the pipe. But of course, I may be full of **** here. Plumbing and electricity I leave to others.
I suppose it's possible, but waste pipes are considerably larger, they have to be buried deeper than the lowest sink/toilet/shower in the house, and, other than the traps in the house, they've got a pitch to keep stuff moving along. The smaller, always full water mains would be much, much more prone.
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