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tubeless tires setup. Your LBS labor charge.

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tubeless tires setup. Your LBS labor charge.

Old 02-14-21, 10:02 AM
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noodle soup
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tubeless tires setup. Your LBS labor charge.

What does your LBS charge for setting up your wheelset tubeless, if you buy the parts(valves, tape, and sealant) from them?

Last edited by noodle soup; 02-14-21 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 02-14-21, 10:07 AM
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phrantic09
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
What does your LBS charge for setting up your wheelset tubeless, if you buy the parts from them?
If I buy tape, valves and tires? $0
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Old 02-14-21, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by phrantic09 View Post
If I buy tape, valves and tires? $0
I should have said "excluding tires".
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Old 02-14-21, 10:27 AM
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I think the shop owner I ride with occasionally mentioned $20/wheel. I don't know anyone who actually pays a shop to do this but apparently it's not unusual.
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Old 02-14-21, 10:37 AM
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I've never had the shop do the whole set up for me, but I have brought in wheels/tires when I've had difficulty seating them. Never a charge for that, though.
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Old 02-14-21, 10:40 AM
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prices for labor vary widely by region. I would expect a job like this to cost 1.5 to 2 times what a tube replacement would cost.
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Old 02-14-21, 11:15 AM
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I bought a new set of wheels and tyres from my LBS last June. They set them up tubeless for me,and did not charge me labour. Same for a set of wheels and tyres I bought last year for my winter bike. As long as I buy from them, they are quite happy to do the set-up free of charge.
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Old 02-14-21, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
I think the shop owner I ride with occasionally mentioned $20/wheel. I don't know anyone who actually pays a shop to do this but apparently it's not unusual.
I had never needed a shop to mount tires for me in 20+ years of riding, but the tire / rim combo I just got proved to be difficult. I could have fought it and probably won, but decided going to my LBS rather than risking any damage to the rims was worth it. I did not buy my most recent bike from this shop (they are having supply constraints and I found a bike in my size that I wanted at a friend's shop in another town). In the past, they've done small things for free on bikes I've purchased from them. I expected to pay for this - it was $20 / rim. I could have fought with it longer, but the price was worth it to me rather than battling it for a few hours. Talked to the person that did the mounting - she showed me the crank brother levers she used. She might have been trying to make me feel better, but noted that these were a particular pain in the ass. I'll be getting a set of the levers she used for the future. I also don't mind paying this shop for service on occasion because a) they do good work; b) humor me when I have questions; and c) I like their shop.

I should note - I mounted the rotors and cassette before taking it in - that took all of five minutes.

edited for a really weird word substitution.

Last edited by ericcox; 02-14-21 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 02-14-21, 01:09 PM
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My LBS quoted $25/wheel after buying tires and everything else from them. Seemed high to me so decided to do it myself. Even with never doing it before it didn't warrant spending that much and it'll take a lot less time in the future.

I like supporting my LBS and buy some stuff from them even when I know I could get it cheaper on line but I can't get myself to pay to have them do something I am comfortable doing myself.
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Old 02-14-21, 02:25 PM
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If you're going to use tubeless, you better know how to fix a big puncture by installing a boot and a tube. I recently made sure that the fulcrum tire levers I carry would break one bead so a tube can be installed, then seat the bead, so it could be reinflated. To install new tires a bead jack might be needed.


https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...54439296&psc=1
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Old 02-14-21, 03:46 PM
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You walk in the shop I work at and want the 'set up' done...clean/tape/valve install/tire install w/ sealant it's $40.00/wheel. If it's a bike or set of wheels you buy from us, no charge.
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Old 02-14-21, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS View Post
If you're going to use tubeless, you better know how to fix a big puncture by installing a boot and a tube. I recently made sure that the fulcrum tire levers I carry would break one bead so a tube can be installed, then seat the bead, so it could be reinflated. To install new tires a bead jack might be needed.


https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...54439296&psc=1
In my case, the Schwalbe tubeless tires were way easier to put on the rims than the GP5000 clincher, which was a major PITA even with a kool-stop jack.
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Old 02-14-21, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ericcox View Post
... she showed me the crank brother levers she used....
When I was in the LBS I got my domane at, I noticed one of the service chaps have a rough time mounting some gp5k on a set of Enve rims. One of the other guys went to his car, grabbed the crank brothers lever he had just gotten in the mail at home and got he time mounted. He ordered 6 for the shop to have and said it was worth it as tubeless can be a major pain to mount. I bought one just in case, but I did not have any issues with my tire\rim combo putting mine on.
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Old 02-14-21, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jaxgtr View Post
When I was in the LBS I got my domane at, I noticed one of the service chaps have a rough time mounting some gp5k on a set of Enve rims. One of the other guys went to his car, grabbed the crank brothers lever he had just gotten in the mail at home and got he time mounted. He ordered 6 for the shop to have and said it was worth it as tubeless can be a major pain to mount. I bought one just in case, but I did not have any issues with my tire\rim combo putting mine on.
My combo was gp5k / ffwd rims.
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Old 02-14-21, 09:53 PM
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I never had any issues mounting gp4k or its variants on any of my rims in the past, but I have heard nothing but horror stories on the gp5k getting them mounted, the first time at least, so this has led me to avoid for the time.
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Old 02-15-21, 08:10 AM
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Is it common, Iíve read that itís done, but how much I donít know, to convert any wheel to tubeless? Or are we talking tubeless ready rims?

I have c24s cl, c40 (35 really) DA, and some Bora one.

Would it be a good idea to convert any or al of these to tubeless?

After 10 years I think Iím very sick of flats.
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Old 02-15-21, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Greatestalltime View Post
Is it common, I’ve read that it’s done, but how much I don’t know, to convert any wheel to tubeless? Or are we talking tubeless ready rims?

I have c24s cl, c40 (35 really) DA, and some Bora one.

Would it be a good idea to convert any or al of these to tubeless?

After 10 years I think I’m very sick of flats.
We're talking about setting up wheels and tires that are tubeless ready/capable.

Converting non-tubeless rims to tubeless is known colloquially as "ghetto tubeless." I'd consider it at MTB pressures, but not at road pressures. I doubt that any self-respecting wrench would set someone up with ghetto tubeless.

Edited to add: if any of the wheels that you've mentioned were bought in the last few years, they're likely tubeless-ready. take a look at the rim bed profile -



I only know of one or two rims that have the distinctive center well that aren't tubeless ready (the new Rovals).

Last edited by WhyFi; 02-15-21 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 02-15-21, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
We're talking about setting up wheels and tires that are tubeless ready/capable.

Converting non-tubeless rims to tubeless is known colloquially as "ghetto tubeless." I'd consider it at MTB pressures, but not at road pressures. I doubt that any self-respecting wrench would set someone up with ghetto tubeless.

Edited to add: if any of the wheels that you've mentioned were bought in the last few years, they're likely tubeless-ready. take a look at the rim bed profile -



I only know of one or two rims that have the distinctive center well that aren't tubeless ready (the new Rovals).
Thank you.
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Old 02-15-21, 10:00 AM
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Ive only taken a set in once- about 5 months ago. It was already taped and the tires simply would not seat regardless of all the insane internet tricks I tried.
It took 2 guys 15 min each with constant high pressure air(more than my pump chamber blasts or a gas station pump) and a lot of grunting to seat the tires.
I hadnt brought any sealant since I figured they would just snap the tires in place and I would pay whatever they asked for labor. They ended up filling the tires and charged me for a couple small bottles of Stans. So $12 or so in total?


If I brought them wheels to fully set up- I would expect to pay $20 per tire for them to set the wheels up, even if I bought the products from them. Taping is not tough, but it is a time suck.
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Old 02-15-21, 10:36 AM
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$30/wheel for labor alone.
I paid that (outrageous) price for four wheels and then invested ~$150 total in a 6 gallon compressor on sale from Amazon and a Prestaflator Pro gun. I do it myself now, it's easy.
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Old 02-15-21, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Taping is not tough, but it is a time suck.
As with most things, technique and materials matter. With a little practice and good tape (DT Swiss is awesome), taping shouldn't take more than a couple minutes per wheel (assuming the rim is clean).
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Old 02-16-21, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
As with most things, technique and materials matter. With a little practice and good tape (DT Swiss is awesome), taping shouldn't take more than a couple minutes per wheel (assuming the rim is clean).
Shops charge for adjusting brakes, adjusting shifting, changing flats, etc and all those also shouldnt take more than a couple minutes each.
In my mind, the taping taking time is if/when they need multiple layers for some tires. Its trial and error and though once take a couple minutes, it adds up when you need multiple layers.
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Old 02-16-21, 10:58 AM
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This is a good reason to buy tires and such from your LBS -- mine will generally not charge for the mounting labor if I have purchased the tires from them...Especially if the bike is in for other service anyway. And the tires I use the most (WTB, Rene Herse) aren't really available at any significant discounts on the 'net, so I might as well get them from my shop.
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Old 02-16-21, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Shops charge for adjusting brakes, adjusting shifting, changing flats, etc and all those also shouldnt take more than a couple minutes each.
In my mind, the taping taking time is if/when they need multiple layers for some tires. Its trial and error and though once take a couple minutes, it adds up when you need multiple layers.
It really takes time when the customer uses tire levers and screws up their previously perfect tape. Then sealant gets under the tape and inside the rim. They bring the wheel in because the tire won't hold air and you remove the tire to find the damaged tape. Then you swear a little, remove the tape and sealant starts dripping out of the spoke holes in the rim, meaning you can't put new tape on til it's clean and dry. That takes time. Multiple layers of tape don't take much time at all.
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Old 02-16-21, 11:42 AM
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Cost my buddy around $50, brought all the supplies and tires with him so it was just labor.
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