Does Stans Dart work with Muc Off No Puncture
 

The dart is supposed to have an extra reaction to stand, but realized I just switched to muc off sealant. Will the darts still work as intended? Any experience would be helpful.

Maybe...that the challenge with these (claimed) proprietary solutions. They might work, but there's no way to know (because they have no interest in testing their products with other brand's products), and the worst way to test it is in the field at a moment when you need it to work without doubt. The Muc-Off sealant is good stuff, though. Maybe just carry a normal bacon kit and be done with it? Or switch back to Stan's?

It’ll definitely work. There’s no magic to Dart, it’s just material for sealant to cling to. I mean, what’s the alternate narrative here? That Dart contains some special chemical impregnated in the fabric which helps Stan’s sealant solidify but is an anti-coagulant for other sealants? Seems highly unlikely.

Stans and Muc-Off sealant are different, but they are both latex based and work the same way. You should be fine.

If the Muc-Off sealant is decent, you should have *knock on wood* very few opportunities to use a product like the Darts, but, as mentioned by others, both sealants (and most on the market) are silicone based, so I don't see why Stan's would have some special sauce adhesion that others wouldn't.

Heaven forfend. There's a reason that Stan's developed the Dart - their sealant sucks.

I haven't had to jam bacon in my tires since muc-off...either fantastic luck or it works pretty good. And, there's a lot of crap on the roads here in the winter. My experience, others' may vary.

I switched from Giant (Stans = Giant (or the other way around?)) to Muc-Off this year and Muc-Off is clearly thicker. It also has crystal particles in the mix to help seal a puncture.

So far so good! The only thing I'm not sure of is lifespan. I have a feeling that Muc-Off will dry / go bad faster than Stans.

I can't compare to Stan's (never used it). But, with Muc-Off, I do "sealant" maintenance after 3-4 months. Seems to keep things working well.

Orange Seal can last for that long, too, but a big part of the maintenance schedule is expected puncture frequency. In the meaty part of my riding season, I get punctures at a rate that I need to top off every 4-6 weeks or there's a chance that all of the sealant will be used up by unnoticed punctures. I found that out the hard way.

EEEEK.... I gotta be honest, I don't puncture very often...which is surprising where I've been riding for the last 5 years, based on the amount for glass and other bull-shazzle I see on the ground. Of course, my luck could all change tomorrow...

Totally agree, though, losing air though the tread means losing sealant. My biggest problem is usually that whatever I've got in the tires (Orange Seal, Mud-Off, Peaty's...) gets gummy at some point, and I figure with a regular interval of popping a bead and digging out the "boogers" and generally pulling the latex "film" off, and then dropping 50-60mL of new back in, I'm good in the event that I do get a puncture.

I got bored last year and I pulled off the sealant snakeskin of an end-of-life 28mm tire (it had ~3500 miles or so on it) and weighed it - it was under 20g.

At another time, I pulled off that snakeskin when refreshing the sealant and then re-mounted the tire - it spewed in half a dozen places; I had effectively pulled out a bunch of plugs and had to re-seal all of them. It made a mess.

Between those two learning experiences, I no longer worry about build-up in the carcass, not on the road bike, at least - I mount a new tire, use a sealant syringe to remove/add sealant and never break the bead unless it's EOL or takes a cut that needs to be internally patched (pretty rare).

Intereresting. I had considered replacing my valves with ones from a Swiss company called Milkit, and getting their syringes for removal and fill....I think you just convinced me to modernize my approach!

I have Milkit valves on one of my bikes - IMO, you only need/want them if your tires don't stay bead-locked to your rims when deflated. In that case, the Milkits allow you to keep enough pressure in the tire to keep it seated while you do your thing.

If your tires do stay locked, which is the case the vast majority of the time, Milkits can add a little fussiness without any real benefit over a regular valve with a large/smooth bore. The problem is that not all valves will pass the ~3mm tube on the syringe - it's about a coin flip, in my experience. Muc-Off's aluminum valves will pass the tubes, and that's what I've been using.

As far as the syringe, they're widely available - I got mine for $12 on Amazon. My understanding is that all of the parts are common in the medical industry and would cost a couple bucks/euros, at most, if you knew where to look.

Even better info...saves me changing out valves! Going to Amazon now.

I switched from Stan's to Orange Seal after reading the positive comments on the forums here. Will be interesting to see/hear how the Muc-Off sealant works.