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SRAM Force Road Disc Brake Pad ?'s

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SRAM Force Road Disc Brake Pad ?'s

Old 05-12-21, 09:27 AM
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Mattyb13
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SRAM Force Road Disc Brake Pad ?'s

2021 Specialized Tarmac SL7 Pro.
SRAM Force Disc Brakes.
Brake pads needed replacing. Replacing with SRAM OEM Pads.
At full open I have some rub and my wheel does not want so spin free. is there a way to open the calipers up a little more to accommodate for the thicker pads? Tried loosening the caliper, gripping the brakes to center and then re-tightening. No luck. Have the engagement screw/adjustment on top of brake hood opened all the way out too. Thanks for any advice.
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Old 05-12-21, 10:21 AM
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Remove the pads and use a tyre lever to reset the pistons
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Old 05-12-21, 12:43 PM
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Might be too much oil in the system.
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Old 05-13-21, 05:57 AM
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Thanks @Elvo. Tried. Didnt work. Cant back the pistons off far enough. Hmmm?
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Old 05-13-21, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
Might be too much oil in the system.
Thanks. I loosened the bleed screw, and tried to push the pistons back with the bleed screw out. Helped a little but still have some rubbing. Im wondering if I need to do this again? Dont want to let too much fluid out of the system.
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Old 05-25-21, 11:32 AM
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SRAM's video instruction on bleed procedure ends with pressing the DOT fluid back and forth and finally adding a bit more pressure at the lever. I have done this procedure a few times, and the brakes work well.
I dont think you have too much fluid.
Force and Red are hard to get right - there's not a lot of tolerance - the pads don't move a lot.
It usually takes me quite a few trys to get the alignment right - undoing the calipers, centering and tightening. I have always been able to get it right in the end. The discs are probably ever so slightly warped. You could try to straighten them with the right tool.
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Old 05-25-21, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattyb13 View Post
2021 Specialized Tarmac SL7 Pro.
SRAM Force Disc Brakes.
Brake pads needed replacing. Replacing with SRAM OEM Pads.
At full open I have some rub and my wheel does not want so spin free. is there a way to open the calipers up a little more to accommodate for the thicker pads? Tried loosening the caliper, gripping the brakes to center and then re-tightening. No luck. Have the engagement screw/adjustment on top of brake hood opened all the way out too. Thanks for any advice.
It's really an alignment issue, i'm pretty sure. What i normally do, is loosening the calipers, then sliding a thin card (a thin business card or index card) between the pad and rotor on either side, then press the lever while tightening. Sometimes i used a card only on one side to force (no pun intended) the caliper a little to one side. For me, as i said, it always takes a few trys.

Careful with the SRAM torx bolts - they are super fragile, and the torx interface is shallow, so they're easy to strip.
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Old 05-25-21, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
Might be too much oil in the system.
This is not the correct answer. It is possible but seeing how the OP's system worked before this is highly unlikely.
Originally Posted by Mattyb13 View Post
Thanks @Elvo. Tried. Didnt work. Cant back the pistons off far enough. Hmmm?
Lubricate the pistons w/ DOT fluid and clean them w/ a Q tip. Then push them back in. They will go in. You might have to get them out a little further to really get them clean.
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Old 05-28-21, 01:45 PM
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Hydraulic brakes self compensate for wear. You have to put the pistons back all the way into the bore.
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Old 05-28-21, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattyb13 View Post
Thanks. I loosened the bleed screw, and tried to push the pistons back with the bleed screw out. Helped a little but still have some rubbing. Im wondering if I need to do this again? Dont want to let too much fluid out of the system.
Totally the wrong thing to do.

Everyone chiming in on here that doesn't actually work with these daily is really just handing you a loaded weapon without educating you on how to safely use it.

SRAM brakes... Well...let me just say I know enough of the engineers that design them that I don't like to publicly talk a lot of smack abut them but let's just say there's lots of opportunities to practice and become a subject matter expert with them.

Because of the design the pistons WILL eventually stick. Did 4 or 5 bikes this week with that problem. I have disagreed with the engineer that designed the lipseal setup. This seals are designed to have a little friction with the piston and flex as well as slide so that there is some back force to help with retraction.

It's a great idea but in the real world it's complete trash. The seals will eventually dry out enough that they essentially weld themselves to the pistons. Usually happens further down in their life. Most road users have the problem towards the end of their first full set of pads if it's taken more than a season or so. When they stick most riders don't even realize it because they end up just losing some throw towards the end of the pad life. They assume they need new pads and swap them. Then get into this situation.

You can put some oil on the pistons (to state the obvious - make sure the pads and rotor are nowhere near that oil) then cycle the pistons in and out a bunch. Saw a hack somewhere that was something along the line of putting a 4mm hex wrench in between the pistons to help keep them from popping too far out. I just do it by eye and sometimes use a half cut bleed block.

I cover a way to do it with their DOT grease in one of my YouTube channel's videos on their systems (yes Anthony couldn't hold the camera still and I apologize). I was confronted after doing that video regarding the grease. Engineer who designed it said, "don't use the grease. It will reduce the retraction." My response was along the lines of, "the brakes just won't work without it." The engineering manager said, "I have a feeling this is one of those 'it was designed to be one way but the mechanic in the field knows how it really works. Both are valid.' situations." He's a great person and an immense asset to SRAM.

End of the day - your pistons are stuck. Push them back. The master cylinder is build to bypass the fluid. No fluid was added to your system. There is a reservoir. Anyone who said you had too much fluid is so wrong it hurts. Instead, now, you don't have enough fluid and probably introduced air into your system and now need a bleed.

If you have to take it to a shop because you don't have the tools to do the bleed please know this: The vast majority of shops have absolutely no skills or ability to work on, troubleshoot, or fix SRAM brakes. They will call it in to service after trying to bleed the system 4-5x without success and SRAM will warranty them and replace them. With the current part shortages that could leave you stranded for a long time. Get them to someone that knows what they're doing.

If you had put a tiny bit of oil on the edge of the pistons and cycled them at the start you'd be done. BTW when they are floating well then be sure to clean off the excess DOT fluid with rubbing alcohol.
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