Importance of foot retention
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1. Global Cycling Network - search YouTube for "Clipless Pedals Vs Flat Pedals - Which is Faster? | GCN Does Science.
2. A Comparison Of Three Bicycle Pedal Types And Power Output - 2012 study by Brandon Kuhn of Ft. Hays State.
I'm not allowed to attach anything or post links yet so you'll have to Google search them. Excellent views/reads.
Track riders have a different issue as their bikes are fixed gear, direct-drive. Staying clipped in is not only for power improvement, but also for safety as the only braking is by back-pressure. Loss of footing on a track bike can be very dangerous. For sprinters, the amount of torque and power they apply can usually pull out the cleats from a clipless pedal no matter how tight you make them. So they prefer the strap-in type in order to stay in the pedal at the start of their sprint. This isn’t as critical with TT or pursuit riders since they have smooth, sustained power compared to the explosive power of a sprinter. In my days on the track, some of us even bolted in.
Hope my comments help.
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People! Could we please try to stay on topic?
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Rubbish. Already made a post in this thread telling folks how they can build the skills to avoid that.
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There are two good studies comparing the effect of clipless pedals to flat pedals. The first one relates to road bikes, the second for mountainbikes.
1. Global Cycling Network - search YouTube for "Clipless Pedals Vs Flat Pedals - Which is Faster? | GCN Does Science.
2. A Comparison Of Three Bicycle Pedal Types And Power Output - 2012 study by Brandon Kuhn of Ft. Hays State.
I'm not allowed to attach anything or post links yet so you'll have to Google search them. Excellent views/reads.
Track riders have a different issue as their bikes are fixed gear, direct-drive. Staying clipped in is not only for power improvement, but also for safety as the only braking is by back-pressure. Loss of footing on a track bike can be very dangerous. For sprinters, the amount of torque and power they apply can usually pull out the cleats from a clipless pedal no matter how tight you make them. So they prefer the strap-in type in order to stay in the pedal at the start of their sprint. This isn’t as critical with TT or pursuit riders since they have smooth, sustained power compared to the explosive power of a sprinter. In my days on the track, some of us even bolted in.
Hope my comments help.
1. Global Cycling Network - search YouTube for "Clipless Pedals Vs Flat Pedals - Which is Faster? | GCN Does Science.
2. A Comparison Of Three Bicycle Pedal Types And Power Output - 2012 study by Brandon Kuhn of Ft. Hays State.
I'm not allowed to attach anything or post links yet so you'll have to Google search them. Excellent views/reads.
Track riders have a different issue as their bikes are fixed gear, direct-drive. Staying clipped in is not only for power improvement, but also for safety as the only braking is by back-pressure. Loss of footing on a track bike can be very dangerous. For sprinters, the amount of torque and power they apply can usually pull out the cleats from a clipless pedal no matter how tight you make them. So they prefer the strap-in type in order to stay in the pedal at the start of their sprint. This isn’t as critical with TT or pursuit riders since they have smooth, sustained power compared to the explosive power of a sprinter. In my days on the track, some of us even bolted in.
Hope my comments help.
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Not able to find your post in this thread or any other about avoiding getting your foot stuck. I stand by my comment but would love to see your post. (I searched through your posts on your page and did a page search on the forum results for "skills" as you mentioned. No luck. Maybe I am blind.) Since I have broken my ribs due to this issue I would very much love to learn.
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Not able to find your post in this thread or any other about avoiding getting your foot stuck. I stand by my comment but would love to see your post. (I searched through your posts on your page and did a page search on the forum results for "skills" as you mentioned. No luck. Maybe I am blind.) Since I have broken my ribs due to this issue I would very much love to learn.
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I don't know if that is what he is talking about but I appreciate you tellling me. That technique looks interesting for a traffic light but it will do little for situations where balance is lost, your bike is falling and you are trying to get your feet out of the pdeals to stop the fall. But thank you.
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I don't know if that is what he is talking about but I appreciate you tellling me. That technique looks interesting for a traffic light but it will do little for situations where balance is lost, your bike is falling and you are trying to get your feet out of the pdeals to stop the fall. But thank you.
Important tip #2: Don't set the tension too high. I don't know about you, but I'm not a world class sprinter, and so all I need in the way of tension is enough to hold my cleat when I'm putting out my very unimpressive power. I've been buying used pedals, and they ALL have had the tension set WAY high
Important tip #3: Choose a side to unclip, and unclip that side every time. I do the right, because then I can rest that foot on the curb if there is one. A lot of times I unclip a second or more before I come to a stop, which also lets drivers know you are stopping and are not about to run a red light illegally while they make a left turn in front of you legally on a green light (for example)
Important tip #4: See Important tip #1.
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Important tip #1: Practice, practice, practice.
Important tip #2: Don't set the tension too high. I don't know about you, but I'm not a world class sprinter, and so all I need in the way of tension is enough to hold my cleat when I'm putting out my very unimpressive power. I've been buying used pedals, and they ALL have had the tension set WAY high
Important tip #3: Choose a side to unclip, and unclip that side every time. I do the right, because then I can rest that foot on the curb if there is one. A lot of times I unclip a second or more before I come to a stop, which also lets drivers know you are stopping and are not about to run a red light illegally while they make a left turn in front of you legally on a green light (for example)
Important tip #4: See Important tip #1.
Important tip #2: Don't set the tension too high. I don't know about you, but I'm not a world class sprinter, and so all I need in the way of tension is enough to hold my cleat when I'm putting out my very unimpressive power. I've been buying used pedals, and they ALL have had the tension set WAY high
Important tip #3: Choose a side to unclip, and unclip that side every time. I do the right, because then I can rest that foot on the curb if there is one. A lot of times I unclip a second or more before I come to a stop, which also lets drivers know you are stopping and are not about to run a red light illegally while they make a left turn in front of you legally on a green light (for example)
Important tip #4: See Important tip #1.
If Kimme can tell me how to get out of that situation I will be both astounded and pleased.
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Broken ribs hurt terribly. I'm so sorry to hear that. Mine wasn't related to the bike, but getting in or out of bed was enough to make me want to die. I wouldn't wish it on anybody.
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not able to find your post in this thread or any other about avoiding getting your foot stuck. I stand by my comment but would love to see your post. (i searched through your posts on your page and did a page search on the forum results for "skills" as you mentioned. No luck. Maybe i am blind.) since i have broken my ribs due to this issue i would very much love to learn.
those who are leery about foot retention should try learning to trackstand. It seems impossible at first, but try it while leaning on a pole or something. Helps a lot if you're on a steep camber and/or a bit uphill. Also spend a bit of time above the bars on the front brake, finding your balance up there where you'd be just after an emergency stop. You can flick the back wheel around a bit like that for extra manoeuvrability at low speed. That way you'll be a lot more comfortable with your feet glued to the bike. Practice not putting a foot down.
I rode for decades on toeclip pedals, with the straps loose enough that i could just step out by lowering my heel. Like this, it's all the security without being stuck on, it feels freer then clipless. Granted, flicking the pedal around and stepping in is a tough one to master, but it's worth it.
Normal shoes plus foot retention - toeclips should be more popular, imo.
I rode for decades on toeclip pedals, with the straps loose enough that i could just step out by lowering my heel. Like this, it's all the security without being stuck on, it feels freer then clipless. Granted, flicking the pedal around and stepping in is a tough one to master, but it's worth it.
Normal shoes plus foot retention - toeclips should be more popular, imo.
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#214
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I find it tragic that so many folks reckon their intuition or what their mate says can possibly trump hard science.
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I am not ungrateful and I really do appreciate everyone's advice. I just think there are times where getting out of clips is impossible. First there is not tension setting. My toe clisps come on and off by rotating your foot. Second, I remove my clips every time I come to a stop. That is both clips not just one. I do that so it becomes natural for me to undo them. After my break in period of learning I have not fallen over stopping my bike. I have however fallen. The last time when my ribs were broken (about 2 months ago and still not healed), I pulled up between a car at a stop light and a handicapped ramp on the curb. My plan was to pull up on the sidewalk so I could push the walk signal. Because of the car I came at the ramp at a very shallow angle and I did not see the 1/2 in high lip along the edge of the ramp. My tire caught and I fell. I guarantee you there was no way to rotate my foot and disengage the pedal in that moment while falling.
If Kimme can tell me how to get out of that situation I will be both astounded and pleased.
If Kimme can tell me how to get out of that situation I will be both astounded and pleased.
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If that advice doesn't sound good enough, fit a larger front tyre.
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Your sprint numbers are similar to my experience. With non-grippy flat pedals the best I can muster for 5 seconds is about 750W and I've topped 1000W exactly once and that was with clipless and 800-950 several other times. I may be less efficient, but it's a sprint and I don't really care.
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Looking at my power curves for 2019 when I started riding clipless in the second part of the year and comparing it to the first part of the year when I didn't - and I can't say I went every bit as hard on one or the other, and the bikes weren't the same, so it's just informative values but interesting nevertheless;
5s power was 950W with clipless and 732W with flats.
1 min power was 505W with clipless and 400W with flats.
5 min power was 297W with clipless and 280W with flats
8 min power was 285W with clipless and 270W with flats
20 min power was 262W with clipless and 240W with flats. (first number was done as part of an uphill race)
1 hour power was 252W with clipless and 212W with flats. (first number was also done as part of the same race)
2 hour power was 202W with clipless and 205W with flats.
Weight was about constant at 72kg all the time, and of course I was somewhat more fit in the second part of the year especially being into cycling for less than two years at that point, so there's that. Anyway, while there's a substantial advantage in a sprint and the 1 minute maximum, already at the 5 minute mark where it's oxygen which is the limiting factor rather than maximal force, there's really not all that much to it.
I wouldn't ride a proper road bike with flats because there are just disadvantages to it for road riding and no real advantages. However, outside of really short efforts or those times when you simply run out of gears and getting up some steep ramp becomes a grinding anaerobic effort, there's not all that much in it. For a commuting / touring bike (which is going to have lower gears available typically) flats can be a bit more practical.
Doesn't hurt to have multiple bikes
5s power was 950W with clipless and 732W with flats.
1 min power was 505W with clipless and 400W with flats.
5 min power was 297W with clipless and 280W with flats
8 min power was 285W with clipless and 270W with flats
20 min power was 262W with clipless and 240W with flats. (first number was done as part of an uphill race)
1 hour power was 252W with clipless and 212W with flats. (first number was also done as part of the same race)
2 hour power was 202W with clipless and 205W with flats.
Weight was about constant at 72kg all the time, and of course I was somewhat more fit in the second part of the year especially being into cycling for less than two years at that point, so there's that. Anyway, while there's a substantial advantage in a sprint and the 1 minute maximum, already at the 5 minute mark where it's oxygen which is the limiting factor rather than maximal force, there's really not all that much to it.
I wouldn't ride a proper road bike with flats because there are just disadvantages to it for road riding and no real advantages. However, outside of really short efforts or those times when you simply run out of gears and getting up some steep ramp becomes a grinding anaerobic effort, there's not all that much in it. For a commuting / touring bike (which is going to have lower gears available typically) flats can be a bit more practical.
Doesn't hurt to have multiple bikes

Last edited by Branko D; 08-04-21 at 07:16 AM.
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Looking at my power curves for 2019 when I started riding clipless in the second part of the year and comparing it to the first part of the year when I didn't - and I can't say I went every bit as hard on one or the other, and the bikes weren't the same, so it's just informative values but interesting nevertheless;
5s power was 950W with clipless and 732W with flats.
1 min power was 505W with clipless and 400W with flats.
5 min power was 297W with clipless and 280W with flats
8 min power was 285W with clipless and 270W with flats
20 min power was 262W with clipless and 240W with flats. (first number was done as part of an uphill race)
1 hour power was 252W with clipless and 212W with flats. (first number was also done as part of the same race)
2 hour power was 202W with clipless and 205W with flats.
Weight was about constant at 72kg all the time, and of course I was somewhat more fit in the second part of the year especially being into cycling for less than two years at that point, so there's that. Anyway, while there's a substantial advantage in a sprint and the 1 minute maximum, already at the 5 minute mark where it's oxygen which is the limiting factor rather than maximal force, there's really not all that much to it.
I wouldn't ride a proper road bike with flats because there are just disadvantages to it for road riding and no real advantages. However, outside of really short efforts or those times when you simply run out of gears and getting up some steep ramp becomes a grinding anaerobic effort, there's not all that much in it. For a commuting / touring bike (which is going to have lower gears available typically) flats can be a bit more practical.
Doesn't hurt to have multiple bikes
5s power was 950W with clipless and 732W with flats.
1 min power was 505W with clipless and 400W with flats.
5 min power was 297W with clipless and 280W with flats
8 min power was 285W with clipless and 270W with flats
20 min power was 262W with clipless and 240W with flats. (first number was done as part of an uphill race)
1 hour power was 252W with clipless and 212W with flats. (first number was also done as part of the same race)
2 hour power was 202W with clipless and 205W with flats.
Weight was about constant at 72kg all the time, and of course I was somewhat more fit in the second part of the year especially being into cycling for less than two years at that point, so there's that. Anyway, while there's a substantial advantage in a sprint and the 1 minute maximum, already at the 5 minute mark where it's oxygen which is the limiting factor rather than maximal force, there's really not all that much to it.
I wouldn't ride a proper road bike with flats because there are just disadvantages to it for road riding and no real advantages. However, outside of really short efforts or those times when you simply run out of gears and getting up some steep ramp becomes a grinding anaerobic effort, there's not all that much in it. For a commuting / touring bike (which is going to have lower gears available typically) flats can be a bit more practical.
Doesn't hurt to have multiple bikes

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Xpedo Spry (just looked, they were much cheaper at the time, anyway a nice and light set of pedals) and a cheap skating shoe which I found both grippy, pretty thin soled, and comfortable to ride with for long periods.
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I can feel it when sprinting up a steep hill. I pull up. I agree, and have confirmed for myself, that for steady state riding clips make no difference to power or efficiency. I haven't seen any studies that look at pedal mechanics while sprinting, they generally are looking at steady state type efforts. But even if you're properly unweighting the pedal while standing and sprinting it's not very comfortable if your feet aren't secured. I didn't notice a huge difference, but something like 100-200W extra when clipped in. Most noticeable going up a short steep hills which we usually see a number of on any given ride.
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Most people would stay clipped when standing on their pedals, and the clip system keeps them from slipping off.
I may be alone in this, but when I'm cycling up an incline, I unclip. For me, I've choked a couple of times on inclines early in my clip experience, where the bike embarrassingly falls over at zero mph. Maybe it's a mental block I can't get over, but then again, I don't have problems slipping off pedals.
FWIW, I ride on Crank Brothers Candy, which is are SPD with a smallish pedal platform around them. Could ride on them with regular shoes, though that is not ideal.
I may be alone in this, but when I'm cycling up an incline, I unclip. For me, I've choked a couple of times on inclines early in my clip experience, where the bike embarrassingly falls over at zero mph. Maybe it's a mental block I can't get over, but then again, I don't have problems slipping off pedals.
FWIW, I ride on Crank Brothers Candy, which is are SPD with a smallish pedal platform around them. Could ride on them with regular shoes, though that is not ideal.
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!
Don’t forget these, “foot retentioners”! Yup! They held your feet reeeal good! Too good! They could be tenacious! Just doin’ my job…

Very GRIPpy…

…did the job, though…

Very GRIPpy…

…did the job, though…