Chain fell off mid pack
11-16-21, 10:59 AM
#26
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Based on what I have read in the singlespeed section of a MTB-focused discussion forum, there are quite a lot of folks who use NW rings on their rigs. Personally, I find a standard non-ramped ring to work just fine.
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11-16-21, 12:04 PM
#29
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Idea: Next time you adjust your chain, mark around the axle nuts with a Sharpie and go ride. That will tell you if the wheel is slipping, even if just a little.
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11-16-21, 06:07 PM
#30
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you prolly better asking this in 'Single & Fixie' forum...
.but.
$150 bike or $1K bike - are you sure of the chainline ? Wheels ? alignment ?
rr wheel might not be properly dished ?
rr wheel cog might not be set to proper chainline ?
Frame is fudged and the dropout alignment is screwed ?
How would you know ?
A quick check which can start the diagnosis... bike on bike stand - visually center the rear wheel between the chainstays....
Assuming the rear wheel axle is straight - measure both sides distance center of crank/BB to forward or back edge of the axle
each side should be same - if a measurement is off, by more than 1mm - it's one of 3 above...
easiest to determine is to have wheel checked with a dish tool...
and/or mount wheel with axle each side spaced equal distance from center crank/BB and check 'chainline'
Sheldon Brown (bless his soul...) as usual, has good intell... https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
I prefer using a straight Alu bar to check chainline vs my dubious visual sightline...
...could eventually mean 'the frame'... but go there last...
... wondering why the bike was $150 ?
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT - and obviously check the chainring for 'faults' like a wobble or bent/munched teeth, single speed cog Teeth and extremely wobbly freewheeling? Is the BB/axle properly adjusted so there's no woblle in the driveside crank ?
.but.
$150 bike or $1K bike - are you sure of the chainline ? Wheels ? alignment ?
rr wheel might not be properly dished ?
rr wheel cog might not be set to proper chainline ?
Frame is fudged and the dropout alignment is screwed ?
How would you know ?
A quick check which can start the diagnosis... bike on bike stand - visually center the rear wheel between the chainstays....
Assuming the rear wheel axle is straight - measure both sides distance center of crank/BB to forward or back edge of the axle
each side should be same - if a measurement is off, by more than 1mm - it's one of 3 above...
easiest to determine is to have wheel checked with a dish tool...
and/or mount wheel with axle each side spaced equal distance from center crank/BB and check 'chainline'
Sheldon Brown (bless his soul...) as usual, has good intell... https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
I prefer using a straight Alu bar to check chainline vs my dubious visual sightline...
...could eventually mean 'the frame'... but go there last...
... wondering why the bike was $150 ?
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT - and obviously check the chainring for 'faults' like a wobble or bent/munched teeth, single speed cog Teeth and extremely wobbly freewheeling? Is the BB/axle properly adjusted so there's no woblle in the driveside crank ?
Last edited by cyclezen; 11-16-21 at 06:13 PM.
11-16-21, 07:14 PM
#31
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Chain might be a little slack.. I've been wrestling with the rear disc brake rubbing and thought it was a bit better when not fully back. Doesn't really make sense but I'm at a loss, hate disc brakes. Going to get it serviced now. Also this is a standard training ride, it's offseason so I bet that's why the fixie is out there. I'm on the single speed to increase my cadence
11-16-21, 07:25 PM
#32
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Fwiw: I once had a bum FSA Vero crankset that somehow got a single arm of the crank spider bent. I bent the ring back as flat as I could. The bent arm & counter-bent ring never manifested into a problem unless I was laying down watts & usually only then when powering down a steep grade at 30+ in the small end of the cassette. Fun times in WTF(!?) Land...
A new crankset solved the issue.
I now run an oval road ring with perfect chainline. The tension is all over the place because, oval. Not a single dropped chain. Ever.
Did you recently switch to a new chainring & place it in the inboard or outboard position differently than the previous one that was removed? That would move it from "perfect" to off by at least more than 5mm & less than 10mm. That's a wicked mis alignment.
I question that chain tension is the root cause unless the chain/cog is so worn that it can climb over the cog teeth. What does a chain wear tool suggest?
Even then, it would need a reason to want to misalign & hop off. It could be a combination of both. Hence, the above.
EDIT: Now that I see a picture was posted while I was typing my reply...Chain tension is totally what your problem is. Tighten that ish up, man! Good gawd.
A new crankset solved the issue.
I now run an oval road ring with perfect chainline. The tension is all over the place because, oval. Not a single dropped chain. Ever.
Did you recently switch to a new chainring & place it in the inboard or outboard position differently than the previous one that was removed? That would move it from "perfect" to off by at least more than 5mm & less than 10mm. That's a wicked mis alignment.
I question that chain tension is the root cause unless the chain/cog is so worn that it can climb over the cog teeth. What does a chain wear tool suggest?
Even then, it would need a reason to want to misalign & hop off. It could be a combination of both. Hence, the above.
EDIT: Now that I see a picture was posted while I was typing my reply...Chain tension is totally what your problem is. Tighten that ish up, man! Good gawd.
Last edited by base2; 11-16-21 at 08:40 PM.
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11-16-21, 07:35 PM
#33
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Chain might be a little slack.. I've been wrestling with the rear disc brake rubbing and thought it was a bit better when not fully back. Doesn't really make sense but I'm at a loss, hate disc brakes. Going to get it serviced now. Also this is a standard training ride, it's offseason so I bet that's why the fixie is out there. I'm on the single speed to increase my cadence
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11-16-21, 08:05 PM
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Chain might be a little slack.. I've been wrestling with the rear disc brake rubbing and thought it was a bit better when not fully back. Doesn't really make sense but I'm at a loss, hate disc brakes. Going to get it serviced now. Also this is a standard training ride, it's offseason so I bet that's why the fixie is out there. I'm on the single speed to increase my cadence
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11-16-21, 10:50 PM
#35
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I understand that you're taking it in to have it serviced and that's probably for the best. Chain jumping aside, in the future, you might find it better to make brake adjustments on the brake housing, pads, etc and not by moving the wheel around. Good luck,
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11-17-21, 12:47 AM
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Damn I feel dumb, knew I should have made it tigher. i blame my disk brakes which are being serviced now. But yeah that's kinda boneheaded of me to run the chain that slack, thanks y'all.
11-17-21, 06:51 AM
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Didn't someone in the group give you some road pedals?
11-17-21, 07:08 AM
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11-17-21, 09:13 AM
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11-17-21, 09:44 AM
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yeah but I really don't want to fall while clipped in, had surgery in my neck 3 months ago. I don't know when I'll start riding my road bike clipped in, might be a year from now. And no I don't wear a shirt, I'm in California, doesn't get cold. Too fat for spandex anyways
11-17-21, 10:12 AM
#42
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I know that wheel rim you're using. Very cheap, very heavy, very durable. I know because I have the same rims. It has survived many vehicular collisions, giant potholes, pinch flat with very sharp steel grate, and one big crash without damage.
Paint the rim dark brown to make it look a bit more expensive and distinct. Might make it less probable to drop chain.
Paint the rim dark brown to make it look a bit more expensive and distinct. Might make it less probable to drop chain.
- Why would painting the rim dark brown reduce chain drop?
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11-17-21, 10:20 AM
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11-17-21, 12:17 PM
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yeah but I really don't want to fall while clipped in, had surgery in my neck 3 months ago. I don't know when I'll start riding my road bike clipped in, might be a year from now. And no I don't wear a shirt, I'm in California, doesn't get cold. Too fat for spandex anyways
11-17-21, 12:35 PM
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Why are you falling? It will hurt just as much whether you are clipped in or not. You must have found a very unique group. It's never happened but I can't imagine any group I've ridden with welcoming a rider who won't wear clothes. Especially one so fat he can't get in cycling kit. Weird.
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11-17-21, 01:19 PM
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Why are you falling? It will hurt just as much whether you are clipped in or not. You must have found a very unique group. It's never happened but I can't imagine any group I've ridden with welcoming a rider who won't wear clothes. Especially one so fat he can't get in cycling kit. Weird.
DUDE! You're not that fat. There's others out there WAY tubbier than you in spandex. Wear a shirt, for cripes sake!
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11-17-21, 04:59 PM
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Don't need one, I swim in the pacific year round without a wetsuit too. I like feeling the elements. Did I wave at you? Hope I did
Last edited by LarrySellerz; 11-17-21 at 05:13 PM.
11-17-21, 05:25 PM
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This was on Canada, at Edgewood, two Saturdays ago. You (if it was you) were headed North and I was on the opposite side of the road, by the stone wall. I only saw you from the back as you passed - there are TONS of cyclists on Canada on Saturday! More than on Sunday, which surprised me.
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11-17-21, 05:57 PM
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Yeah, now you mention it I had seen - and heard! - the Spectrum ride roll by a bit before that. Yeah, they were FAST! And holy hell, that's a LOT of cyclists! I also saw them later, as I was coming down upper Alpine towards Portola, they were making the left onto Alpine. I'm just glad I wasn't in front of them. I can hold a line, but I think I'd have been a little freaked.
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