Immersive waxing / it should be more popular
#151
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- I replace my chain at around 3500 miles, and it's not worn out yet, but I can afford it. Are waxers getting double that?If not, why bother to have three chains in rotation and a little crock pot? Everyone likes a ritual, but I'd rather be riding than tracking my chain/cassette/chainring wear. Is there an Excel template for all of that?
Last edited by eduskator; 08-24-22 at 05:30 AM.
#152
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For the convenience of not having to rotate chains, running a little crock pot and boiling wax; that is why. I glean that waxers enjoy the process, and that's great. But saving a few bucks is not a compelling argument to go through all that rigmarole. To me.
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#153
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Go take it up with https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/
Looks like he runs a pretty standardised rig and has wordy enough documentation at the bottom of that page for you to go through and point out how it cannot be.
Refer to column on the far right:

Looks like he runs a pretty standardised rig and has wordy enough documentation at the bottom of that page for you to go through and point out how it cannot be.
Refer to column on the far right:

#154
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A box of wax at the hardware store costs about $3.
Silca caters to people with lots of money, or morons like me who should know better. (I am guilty. I bought their frame-pump and a couple of Ti water bottle cages for my wife, as well as two instances of their $50 handlebar tape). But I still wouldn't buy their wax or pre-waxed chains. There is a limit to my idiocy.
Silca caters to people with lots of money, or morons like me who should know better. (I am guilty. I bought their frame-pump and a couple of Ti water bottle cages for my wife, as well as two instances of their $50 handlebar tape). But I still wouldn't buy their wax or pre-waxed chains. There is a limit to my idiocy.
#155
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You should not necessarily take those ZFC chain lifetimes literally, they are including the fact that the chain runs through extreme contamination conditions. For dry road riding there is not much difference in chain lifetime between hot wax and one of the best drip lubes such as Silca SS. Those are the results at the end of block 3 in the table. They don't show Silca SS but its total % is 7.5% there.. almost the same as the Silca hot wax.
#156
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Again, not an apples-to-apples comparison. I don't care if what works for you is different than what works for me, but let's at least be honest about it. The following isn't really for you, I don't believe that you're open-minded enough to benefit, but this is a good jumping off point for those that might be interested in a realistic picture of what waxing entails.
Hands-on time:
- I ride most days, we'll say 6 days per week, on average. 5.5 of those days, I do exactly zero maintenance with my drivetrain - no wiping, no lubing, no nothing.
- Once a month or so, I'll batch wax my chains. This involves plugging in the crockpot (Chain 1 is already in there) and setting a timer for 1hr 20 min. When the timer goes off, I swish the chain, hang it, swish the quick link, hang it, pull Chain 2 off of the bike, plop it in and then swish and hang 15 minutes later (when the wax/chain have come back up to temp). I'll break the links of Chain 1 and put it back on the bike so that it's ready to roll. Total time is a couple of hours, but hands-on time is 5 minutes or so.
- About two weeks later - so again, once per month or so - I'll swap to Chain 2 (putting Chain 1 in the cold Crockpot to sit there until the next batch wax). This takes maybe 90 seconds.
- Once every ~1.5 years, I'll strip two new chains. This takes about an hour of hands-on time and is, by far, the least pleasant part of the process.
- I'll eventually have to dispose of the used OMS and DNA but we, as a household, usually do a county drop-off of hazardous/special recyclable materials once every 3 years or so, and this'll get lumped in with that.
- There is no chain wiping, cassette degreasing or flossing, jockey wheel scraping or chainring cleaning, ever - this stuff was probably what I disliked most about wet lubes. For those that ride on rainbows that don't have grit and grime, I envy you.
- $20 worth of Molten Speed Wax lasts me 2-3 years.
- <$20 for 1gal OMS - this'll probably last me 4+ years
- <$10 for 1qt DNA - again, 4+ years
- The Crockpot was $12 at Target
*In whole,* this is definitely saves me time and money, though neither is a hugely significant factor in my book. More importantly to me is that it is far more convenient and less icky than my experience with wet lubes. YMMV.
#157
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Have we discussed dry lubes such as this one yet?
https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
#158
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Have we discussed dry lubes such as this one yet?
https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
I wouldn't get it anywhere near a bike.
#159
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#160
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Well, we made it to page 7 without someone telling us how great chainsaw bar oil is.
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Click on the links to the products to generate revenue for bike rumor.
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#164
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Thanks WhyFi, on bad arthritis days I now ride a recumbent trike and the new to me threading chains through tubes, long chain, etc. and your post above have convinced me to switch.
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I haven't been able to say to my wife "honey, I dropped $175 on a frame pump". But in addition to everything else, the color scheme exactly matches that of my bike (black with anodized red trim), much as my 1987 Silca pump matches my Bianchi.
So you like the saddle bag? I had my eye on it.
So you like the saddle bag? I had my eye on it.
The saddle bag is the bomb!
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Did you say you ride a bent? Hopefully, you're not a doppelganger/sock of another BF member.
#167
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With Squirt, my chains lasted about 6500km before I'd have a big event coming up and would bin the chain despite it still being within spec, using Dura-ace 11 speed chains. I'd just like to go to the signature event of the year with a fresh chain and everything in tip top shape.
UFO lube and Silca does better in testing than Squirt and are cleaner (Squirt tends to form black gunk) so the chains should last longer still, all that with the convenience of a drip on lube. If I had more time, maybe I'd start waxing but... eh.
UFO lube and Silca does better in testing than Squirt and are cleaner (Squirt tends to form black gunk) so the chains should last longer still, all that with the convenience of a drip on lube. If I had more time, maybe I'd start waxing but... eh.
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Disposable gloves in the tool kit for the win?
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#173
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I do carry a pair of nitrile disposable gloves in my saddlebag. Their main function seems to be to stop the pair of CO2 cartridges clacking off each other, and any time I don't have to use them is something else that doesn't needlessly go into a landfill. I also have 10 perfectly good fingers, and while I understand that I can use a pair of gloves or finagle the wheel in and out of the frame while studiously avoiding touching anything, having a clean waxed drivetrain means that I can simply use those fingers to quickly and easily do stuff and not have filthy fingers afterward. I'm not evangelizing any particular lube approach, nor do I give a crap how others deal with this clearly thorny issue, I simply added my experience with waxing as a data point to the thread, describing the advantages as they apply to me.
#174
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So, you've apparently been doing it WRONG for 4 decades. It's a wonder your chains didn't asplode.
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