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Immersive waxing / it should be more popular

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Immersive waxing / it should be more popular

Old 08-24-22, 05:25 AM
  #151  
eduskator
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Originally Posted by BCDrums View Post
  • I replace my chain at around 3500 miles, and it's not worn out yet, but I can afford it. Are waxers getting double that?If not, why bother to have three chains in rotation and a little crock pot? Everyone likes a ritual, but I'd rather be riding than tracking my chain/cassette/chainring wear. Is there an Excel template for all of that?
Good luck, waxers.
But why?

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Old 08-24-22, 05:52 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by BCDrums View Post
I replace my chain at around 3500 miles, and it's not worn out yet, but I can afford it.
Originally Posted by yaw View Post
Immersion hot waxing gets 4-5 times that lifespan out of a chain.
Some lab may have gotten a greater lifespan, but do real users on the real road? Did you get 4-5X?
Originally Posted by eduskator View Post
But why?
For the convenience of not having to rotate chains, running a little crock pot and boiling wax; that is why. I glean that waxers enjoy the process, and that's great. But saving a few bucks is not a compelling argument to go through all that rigmarole. To me.
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Old 08-24-22, 07:09 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by yaw View Post
Go take it up with https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Looks like he runs a pretty standardised rig and has wordy enough documentation at the bottom of that page for you to go through and point out how it cannot be.

Refer to column on the far right:

Sure, but you have to re-wax 100 times and buy 20 quick links to get it there. Not to mention the faff to get started in the first place. - Ill buy you a beer if you ever get to 25.000km on one chain :-)
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Old 08-24-22, 07:17 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark View Post
A box of wax at the hardware store costs about $3.

Silca caters to people with lots of money, or morons like me who should know better. (I am guilty. I bought their frame-pump and a couple of Ti water bottle cages for my wife, as well as two instances of their $50 handlebar tape). But I still wouldn't buy their wax or pre-waxed chains. There is a limit to my idiocy.
I would think twice about $50 bar tape, but Silca makes some damn fine pumps. I just ordered my third from them. And I still might pull the trigger on some ti bottle cages one day.
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Old 08-24-22, 07:36 AM
  #155  
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You should not necessarily take those ZFC chain lifetimes literally, they are including the fact that the chain runs through extreme contamination conditions. For dry road riding there is not much difference in chain lifetime between hot wax and one of the best drip lubes such as Silca SS. Those are the results at the end of block 3 in the table. They don't show Silca SS but its total % is 7.5% there.. almost the same as the Silca hot wax.
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Old 08-24-22, 07:58 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by BCDrums View Post
Nope. For you, maybe. While your wax is melting, I will have wet-lubed and been out the door for 10 minutes.
Originally Posted by BCDrums View Post
  • I doubt that waxing is less expensive in any substantial way than wet-lubing. And if it is, I'd rather spend a few extra bucks than have three chains in rotation and a crock pot. Waxing is certainly more time-consuming.

Again, not an apples-to-apples comparison. I don't care if what works for you is different than what works for me, but let's at least be honest about it. The following isn't really for you, I don't believe that you're open-minded enough to benefit, but this is a good jumping off point for those that might be interested in a realistic picture of what waxing entails.

Hands-on time:
  • I ride most days, we'll say 6 days per week, on average. 5.5 of those days, I do exactly zero maintenance with my drivetrain - no wiping, no lubing, no nothing.
  • Once a month or so, I'll batch wax my chains. This involves plugging in the crockpot (Chain 1 is already in there) and setting a timer for 1hr 20 min. When the timer goes off, I swish the chain, hang it, swish the quick link, hang it, pull Chain 2 off of the bike, plop it in and then swish and hang 15 minutes later (when the wax/chain have come back up to temp). I'll break the links of Chain 1 and put it back on the bike so that it's ready to roll. Total time is a couple of hours, but hands-on time is 5 minutes or so.
  • About two weeks later - so again, once per month or so - I'll swap to Chain 2 (putting Chain 1 in the cold Crockpot to sit there until the next batch wax). This takes maybe 90 seconds.
  • Once every ~1.5 years, I'll strip two new chains. This takes about an hour of hands-on time and is, by far, the least pleasant part of the process.
  • I'll eventually have to dispose of the used OMS and DNA but we, as a household, usually do a county drop-off of hazardous/special recyclable materials once every 3 years or so, and this'll get lumped in with that.
  • There is no chain wiping, cassette degreasing or flossing, jockey wheel scraping or chainring cleaning, ever - this stuff was probably what I disliked most about wet lubes. For those that ride on rainbows that don't have grit and grime, I envy you.
Recurring costs:
  • $20 worth of Molten Speed Wax lasts me 2-3 years.
  • <$20 for 1gal OMS - this'll probably last me 4+ years
  • <$10 for 1qt DNA - again, 4+ years
One time expense:
  • The Crockpot was $12 at Target

*In whole,* this is definitely saves me time and money, though neither is a hugely significant factor in my book. More importantly to me is that it is far more convenient and less icky than my experience with wet lubes. YMMV.
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Old 08-24-22, 07:59 AM
  #157  
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Have we discussed dry lubes such as this one yet?

https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
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Old 08-24-22, 08:02 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
Have we discussed dry lubes such as this one yet?

https://blasterproducts.com/product/...dry-lubricant/
Looks ok for a lock that is sticking.

I wouldn't get it anywhere near a bike.
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Old 08-24-22, 08:02 AM
  #159  
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https://bikerumor.com/best-bike-chain-lubes/
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Old 08-24-22, 08:02 AM
  #160  
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Well, we made it to page 7 without someone telling us how great chainsaw bar oil is.
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Old 08-24-22, 08:03 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark View Post
Looks ok for a lock that is sticking.

I wouldn't get it anywhere near a bike.
I put something similar on my Speedplay cleats, but that's about it.
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Old 08-24-22, 08:03 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
Advertisements disguised as "journalism."

Click on the links to the products to generate revenue for bike rumor.
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Old 08-24-22, 08:11 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark View Post
That's right. The wax essentially cleans the chain in the same way any nonpolar organic solvent would when it is in the liquid phase.

I didn't even know fork-lifts had chains, so I cannot comment further.

For the record, I don't wax my chainsaws.
I forgot to post this for you.

https://www.tvh.com/blog/lubrication...chain-our-tips
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Old 08-24-22, 08:16 AM
  #164  
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Thanks WhyFi, on bad arthritis days I now ride a recumbent trike and the new to me threading chains through tubes, long chain, etc. and your post above have convinced me to switch.
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Old 08-24-22, 08:28 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark View Post
I haven't been able to say to my wife "honey, I dropped $175 on a frame pump". But in addition to everything else, the color scheme exactly matches that of my bike (black with anodized red trim), much as my 1987 Silca pump matches my Bianchi.

So you like the saddle bag? I had my eye on it.
for the pump I have the Silca Tattico Mini Pump which is around $70.
The saddle bag is the bomb!
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Old 08-24-22, 08:54 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by easyupbug View Post
Thanks WhyFi, on bad arthritis days I now ride a recumbent trike and the new to me threading chains through tubes, long chain, etc. and your post above have convinced me to switch.
Did you say you ride a bent? Hopefully, you're not a doppelganger/sock of another BF member.
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Old 08-24-22, 09:25 AM
  #167  
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With Squirt, my chains lasted about 6500km before I'd have a big event coming up and would bin the chain despite it still being within spec, using Dura-ace 11 speed chains. I'd just like to go to the signature event of the year with a fresh chain and everything in tip top shape.
​​​​​​
UFO lube and Silca does better in testing than Squirt and are cleaner (Squirt tends to form black gunk) so the chains should last longer still, all that with the convenience of a drip on lube. If I had more time, maybe I'd start waxing but... eh.
​​​​
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Old 08-24-22, 10:41 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
You don’t have to touch the chain when you remove the rear wheel.
Sure, I could hook the chain off with a stick or whatever, but sh1t happens. Conditions at the side of the road aren't always ideal
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Old 08-24-22, 11:01 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Litespud View Post
Sure, I could hook the chain off with a stick or whatever, but sh1t happens. Conditions at the side of the road aren't always ideal
Do you have something other than a normal 1x or 2x road setup?
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Old 08-24-22, 11:12 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe View Post
Do you have something other than a normal 1x or 2x road setup?
Nope - standard 2x
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Old 08-24-22, 11:20 AM
  #171  
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Disposable gloves in the tool kit for the win?
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Old 08-24-22, 11:35 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Litespud View Post
Nope - standard 2x
If it’s a standard 2x setup (with very dropouts), then you should be able to remove the wheel without touching the chain.
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Old 08-24-22, 11:42 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
Disposable gloves in the tool kit for the win?
I do carry a pair of nitrile disposable gloves in my saddlebag. Their main function seems to be to stop the pair of CO2 cartridges clacking off each other, and any time I don't have to use them is something else that doesn't needlessly go into a landfill. I also have 10 perfectly good fingers, and while I understand that I can use a pair of gloves or finagle the wheel in and out of the frame while studiously avoiding touching anything, having a clean waxed drivetrain means that I can simply use those fingers to quickly and easily do stuff and not have filthy fingers afterward. I'm not evangelizing any particular lube approach, nor do I give a crap how others deal with this clearly thorny issue, I simply added my experience with waxing as a data point to the thread, describing the advantages as they apply to me.
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Old 08-24-22, 11:50 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by big john View Post
I wipe my chains with a rag. Takes a few seconds. I'm not big on maintenance, don't really care as long as it still works. I replace the drivetrain parts when they get trashed. Doing it that way for almost 40 years.
So, you've apparently been doing it WRONG for 4 decades. It's a wonder your chains didn't asplode.
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Old 08-24-22, 12:58 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post

Again, not an apples-to-apples comparison. I don't care if what works for you is different than what works for me, but let's at least be honest about it. The following isn't really for you, I don't believe that you're open-minded enough to benefit...
None taken!
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