Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Any other 1x road climbers here?

Notices
Road Cycling ďIt is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.Ē -- Ernest Hemingway

Any other 1x road climbers here?

Old 12-09-22, 11:54 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 450 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times in 447 Posts
Any other 1x road climbers here?

I recently built up a 1x road bike specifically for climbing and something a bit more sturdy for the winter. So far I'm really liking it. I know I'm not the fastest on the flats, but the moment I hit the hills I can really let loose. Also the 1x chainring is so much better for riding down bumpy descents. Chain drop isn't even issue with the longer chainring teeth. Right now I'm running a fairly easy 42t chainring with 165mm crank arms and an 11-32t cassette. I've been thinking of upsizing to an 11-36t so I can attack steeper hills, though I've been able to tackle most road climbs with the current setup. Also I've been considering upsizing my chainring as well, but I feel I can go all-out longer with the 42t. If I'm climbing on the big with 2x 50t (on my other bike), I definitely feel like my heart is redlining faster. I've compared my Strava times climbing the same hills with both my 1x and 2x bikes. In some areas I was faster with the 2x, but I've also PR'ed in other areas with the 1x bike.

Anyways I'm curious if there are other 1x road climbers on here. I'd like to hear your thoughts and gearing choices. Thanks!

Last edited by jonathanf2; 12-09-22 at 11:59 AM.
jonathanf2 is offline  
Likes For jonathanf2:
Old 12-09-22, 12:29 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 8,030
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7081 Post(s)
Liked 11,179 Times in 4,775 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Right now I'm running a fairly easy 42t chainring with 165mm crank arms and an 11-32t cassette. I've been thinking of upsizing to an 11-36t so I can attack steeper hills. Also I've been considering upsizing my chainring as well
These two changes are diametrically opposed: one gives you lower gearing, the other gives you higher gearing. Why would both be under consideration?

​​​​​​
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
If I'm climbing on the big with 2x 50t (on my other bike), I definitely feel like my heart is redlining faster.
Why would you be climbing on your 50t -- especially if you are "redlining"? Just shift to the small chainring and you'll be able to get about the same gearing that you have on the 1x. Oh, and by the way, pushing a higher gear has the opposite effect of what you're claiming -- it will tend to keep your heart rate a bit lower than spinning a lower gear at higher cadence.

Originally Posted by jonathanf2
I've compared my Strava times climbing the same hills with both my 1x and 2x bikes. In some areas I was faster with the 2x, but I've also PR'ed in other areas with the 1x bike.
Likely unrelated to your gearing choices.

Last edited by Koyote; 12-09-22 at 12:33 PM.
Koyote is offline  
Likes For Koyote:
Old 12-09-22, 12:48 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 450 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times in 447 Posts
Yeah, use your brain. Bigger cassette to attack the hills, larger chainring to go faster on the flats. Plus not all us cyclists are scrawny weenies who attack hills in saddle, some of us actually have muscle to power up with the big chainring.

Originally Posted by Koyote
These two changes are diametrically opposed: one gives you lower gearing, the other gives you higher gearing. Why would both be under consideration?


Why would you be climbing on your 50t -- especially if you are "redlining"? Just shift to the small chainring and you'll be able to get about the same gearing that you have on the 1x. Oh, and by the way, pushing a higher gear has the opposite effect of what you're claiming -- it will tend to keep your heart rate a bit lower than spinning a lower gear at higher cadence.



Likely unrelated to your gearing choices.
jonathanf2 is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 12:54 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Seattle Forrest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times in 6,054 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Yeah, use your brain. Bigger cassette to attack the hills, larger chainring to go faster on the flats. Plus not all us cyclists are scrawny weenies who attack hills in saddle, some of us actually have muscle to power up with the big chainring.
Dude, relax. We're talking about riding bikes up hills.
Seattle Forrest is offline  
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
Old 12-09-22, 01:10 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 450 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times in 447 Posts
Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
Dude, relax. We're talking about riding bikes up hills.
I just wanted to have a nice chat about 1x road climbing. I only responded in an equal tone.

So let's agree to go back on topic. Are you a 1x road cyclist, I'd love to hear your thoughts.
jonathanf2 is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 01:13 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,036

Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3997 Post(s)
Liked 7,484 Times in 3,011 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
I only responded in an equal tone.
Not really.
tomato coupe is offline  
Likes For tomato coupe:
Old 12-09-22, 01:19 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
mcours2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 6,208

Bikes: ...a few.

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2012 Post(s)
Liked 410 Times in 236 Posts
1x reserved for gravel and cyclocross. Round here there's no need to use 1x for road. 50-34 paired with 11-32 is more than enough for most riding situations. Personally, I have 52-36 paired with 11-28, and again, more than enough for most situations around here. But if you live in really mountainous and hilly terrain, YMMV. How's my 'tone'?
mcours2006 is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 02:51 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Dave Mayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,506
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1379 Post(s)
Liked 481 Times in 281 Posts
For climbing? Triples. The gearing becomes dead simple. Going downhill or with a tailwind, you ride in the big ring. Climbing - the little ring. The other 90% of the time, the middle ring.

Another great thing about triples is that you can run a reasonably sized cassette, say a 13-28, with close cog jumps, without having to resort to ridiculous pie-plate cassettes that weight half a kg, cost $200 and have big gear ratio jumps between the cogs.

Running say a 3 x 8 system, with 24 'gears' is that you can avoid 'upgrading' to 12 or 13 or whatever absurd number of cassette cogs required to give you an adequate gear range. Cost: at our local bike Co-op, basically new condition 8-speed cassettes cost $5, and new chains cost $15.

1 x systems may be suitable for aggressive MTB use, where dangerous stuff is coming at you so fast that you don't have the time or spare mental processing power to work a front derailleur. However, on a road system, 1 x makes no sense, except perhaps as a way for the sorry bike industry to create some new crap to sell, and cause some sales buzz. But this has been the story for the last 10 years, where inappropriate & unnecessary MTB gear is ported over to the road bike market. Such as sloping top tubes, fat tires, disc brakes, dropper posts etc.
Dave Mayer is offline  
Likes For Dave Mayer:
Old 12-09-22, 03:15 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2333 Post(s)
Liked 2,097 Times in 1,314 Posts
I use 48T and 11x36 or 11x34 12 speed cassette and it is pretty hilly here. Normal rides are 60-90 feet per mile.
GhostRider62 is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 04:21 PM
  #10  
Sock Puppet
 
Lombard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times in 573 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Yeah, use your brain. Bigger cassette to attack the hills, larger chainring to go faster on the flats. Plus not all us cyclists are scrawny weenies who attack hills in saddle, some of us actually have muscle to power up with the big chainring.
Lombard is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 04:22 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,715

Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Liked 474 Times in 328 Posts
Not a climber but I've set one of my road bikes as 1x and I run 44x12-36. I think you can get away with 42-48t up front and still be respectable on the flats. No 48t for me though as I can't really big-ring up all of the local hills with my 50t double. My 44/36 is like a 34/28 and I've considered going down to a 42t up front to get a slightly lower climbing gear (still running 10sp so 11-40t cassettes have too much gap in my opinion).
tFUnK is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 06:08 PM
  #12  
climber has-been
 
terrymorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,233

Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3532 Post(s)
Liked 3,686 Times in 1,849 Posts
No 1x here. A single chainring would be too limiting for the type of riding I do.
__________________
Ride, Rest, Repeat. ROUVY: terrymorse


terrymorse is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 07:08 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 8,030
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7081 Post(s)
Liked 11,179 Times in 4,775 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Yeah, use your brain. Bigger cassette to attack the hills, larger chainring to go faster on the flats.
Okay, I'll state this as a question: do you realize that a "bigger cassette" (I presume this means a larger cog or two) along with a larger chainring means that your low gear (to "attack the hills") probably won't change much, or may end up giving you a low gear that is actually higher? That's something to consider before you make gearing changes.

You might want to check out a calculator like this one, though there are others on the 'net.

And to reiterate a point you ignored: spinning a higher cadence generates more power and will tax your cardio system -- i.e., easier to "redline" your HR. Pushing a bigger gear at lower cadence taxes your muscles and will, ceteris paribus, have you running at a lower HR. I'm not suggesting that one way is right and the other is wrong...It's just physiology.

Last edited by Koyote; 12-09-22 at 07:13 PM.
Koyote is offline  
Likes For Koyote:
Old 12-09-22, 08:00 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8,556
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3256 Post(s)
Liked 2,567 Times in 1,529 Posts
I thought the rule of thumb was for bigger, heavier riders to stay in the saddle while climbing instead of standing. Something like >2lbs per inch you should climb seated.
seypat is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 08:05 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8,556
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3256 Post(s)
Liked 2,567 Times in 1,529 Posts
Originally Posted by Lombard
Best laugh I've had from BF in a while!
seypat is offline  
Old 12-09-22, 10:24 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 702

Bikes: '23 Poseidon Redwood, '07 Specialized Roubaix Comp Triple, '12 Gravity Fixie, '21 Liv Rove 4, '06? Giant EB Spirit

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times in 151 Posts
I prefer 3x with close spacing in the cassettes

i know itís not in fashion these days, but when it is tuned up it is awesome for climbing
Symox is offline  
Likes For Symox:
Old 12-09-22, 10:28 PM
  #17  
climber has-been
 
terrymorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,233

Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3532 Post(s)
Liked 3,686 Times in 1,849 Posts
Originally Posted by seypat
I thought the rule of thumb was for bigger, heavier riders to stay in the saddle while climbing instead of standing. Something like >2lbs per inch you should climb seated.
I donít think standing is ever metabolically more efficient than seated, at any body weight.

Common wisdom says to stay seated most of the time, standing occasionally.
__________________
Ride, Rest, Repeat. ROUVY: terrymorse


terrymorse is offline  
Likes For terrymorse:
Old 12-09-22, 10:46 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
big john's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,430
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8366 Post(s)
Liked 9,217 Times in 4,541 Posts
Originally Posted by seypat
I thought the rule of thumb was for bigger, heavier riders to stay in the saddle while climbing instead of standing. Something like >2lbs per inch you should climb seated.
The 2 pounds per inch of height is regarded as the ideal weight for climbing by some people. For some body types this is nearly impossible.

I don't think there is a rule of thumb for who stands during climbs and who doesn't, it depends on the individual, but smaller people generally can stand longer. I climbed a 9 mile canyon with a guy who stood up the whole way and he was not a little fella.
big john is offline  
Likes For big john:
Old 12-10-22, 08:09 AM
  #19  
Sock Puppet
 
Lombard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times in 573 Posts
Originally Posted by terrymorse
I don’t think standing is ever metabolically more efficient than seated, at any body weight.

Common wisdom says to stay seated most of the time, standing occasionally.
Originally Posted by big john
The 2 pounds per inch of height is regarded as the ideal weight for climbing by some people. For some body types this is nearly impossible.

I don't think there is a rule of thumb for who stands during climbs and who doesn't, it depends on the individual, but smaller people generally can stand longer. I climbed a 9 mile canyon with a guy who stood up the whole way and he was not a little fella.
Personally, I always seem to assplode when I ride standing and end up sitting after a few seconds. Not sure if I just need to train different muscles or what it is.



​​​​​​​
Lombard is offline  
Old 12-10-22, 08:56 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
big john's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,430
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8366 Post(s)
Liked 9,217 Times in 4,541 Posts
Originally Posted by Lombard
Personally, I always seem to assplode when I ride standing and end up sitting after a few seconds. Not sure if I just need to train different muscles or what it is.


I don't stand for extended periods, just enough to stretch and get blood flowing. It's something you have to train for. When I've done steep stuff I always stay seated because I'm afraid of breaking something and only stand if I feel like I have to.
big john is offline  
Likes For big john:
Old 12-10-22, 09:23 AM
  #21  
t2p
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,185

Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1439 Post(s)
Liked 1,988 Times in 1,132 Posts
Originally Posted by Symox
I prefer 3x with close spacing in the cassettes

i know it’s not in fashion these days, but when it is tuned up it is awesome for climbing
with availability of 50-34 and 46-30 doubles - paired with 10 spd ... 11spd ... and now 12 spd ... there is little reason for a triple

50-34 or 46-30 paired with 11-28 ... 11-30 ... 11-32 ... 11-34 ... etc ... will provide for climbing and top end

back in the early / mid 90's - before wide availability of 50-34 and 46-30 cranksets - many in my group installed off-road cranks on their road bikes (using just two outer rings)

Last edited by t2p; 12-10-22 at 09:33 AM.
t2p is offline  
Likes For t2p:
Old 12-10-22, 09:28 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
PeteHski's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,678
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4522 Post(s)
Liked 5,022 Times in 3,102 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2
Yeah, use your brain. Bigger cassette to attack the hills, larger chainring to go faster on the flats. Plus not all us cyclists are scrawny weenies who attack hills in saddle, some of us actually have muscle to power up with the big chainring.
Sounds like your climbs are short and not very steep.
PeteHski is offline  
Old 12-10-22, 09:38 AM
  #23  
t2p
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,185

Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1439 Post(s)
Liked 1,988 Times in 1,132 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathanf2

Right now I'm running a fairly easy 42t chainring with 165mm crank arms and an 11-32t cassette.
42t chainring ... ???

165mm crank arm length ... ???

neither would be on my list for climbing
t2p is offline  
Likes For t2p:
Old 12-10-22, 11:06 AM
  #24  
climber has-been
 
terrymorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,233

Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3532 Post(s)
Liked 3,686 Times in 1,849 Posts
Originally Posted by Lombard
Personally, I always seem to assplode when I ride standing and end up sitting after a few seconds. Not sure if I just need to train different muscles or what it is.
Are you clicking up a gear or two when you stand? The higher gear keeps the cadence lower, keeping the aerobic effort about the same as when seated.

I aim for about a 60 cadence when climbing out of the saddle.

Originally Posted by big john
The 2 pounds per inch of height is regarded as the ideal weight for climbing by some people.
I hadn't heard that before. Yours truly comes in at 1.9 pounds per inch.
​​​​​​​
__________________
Ride, Rest, Repeat. ROUVY: terrymorse



Last edited by terrymorse; 12-10-22 at 11:11 AM.
terrymorse is offline  
Likes For terrymorse:
Old 12-10-22, 11:44 AM
  #25  
Sock Puppet
 
Lombard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times in 573 Posts
Originally Posted by terrymorse
Are you clicking up a gear or two when you stand? The higher gear keeps the cadence lower, keeping the aerobic effort about the same as when seated.

I aim for about a 60 cadence when climbing out of the saddle.
Yes

Last edited by Lombard; 12-10-22 at 02:47 PM.
Lombard is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.