big john

Roscoe needs a mani-pedi.

Velo Vol 

My sister has chickens (wut) and I don't recall the eggs tasting all that different.

You should do a blind taste test--you might be surprised.

znomit

You might be more surprised to find what's in the backyard eggs.
https://arstechnica.com/science/2022...n-shop-eggs/2/

datlas 

Frayed cable inside shifter likely. What model shifter and how many miles on cable??

datlas 

Sadly, I have become quite expert in this issue. I have come to the conclusion that it's not really miles that are the best measure of cable longevity in Shimano shifters, but rather number of shifts. Because I live in a hilly area with generally SHORT "rollers" rather than real hills, I probably shift SEVERAL HUNDRED TIMES on a typical ride. For my type of riding, I am getting somewhere between 2500 and 3000 miles/cable. I expect if I lived in a flat area I would get 10x that lifespan. If I lived in an area with longer ups/downs I would probably get 3X that lifespan (based on shift frequency).

MoAlpha

And this is with the new 8000 set?

datlas 

Yes. See post above. It's enough to make me consider electronic shifting, but my bike is NOT easily set up for that (external cables, rim brakes).

Velo Vol 

Oh my, datlas .

Also they feed them all kinds of gross table scraps.

MoAlpha

Makes me wonder if it's the bike, viz. an issue with the cable routing or some fitting that's putting excess drag on it. Have you compared the upshift resistance to someone else's bike?

abshipp 

Just issues with going to the smallest cog?

I'd start with maybe a 1/4 turn CCW on the high limit screw (or what Shimano calls the Top Adjustment).

Per Shimano the upper jockey wheel is to be aligned with the outer edge of the smallest cog, if it's centered on the cog it will have issues dropping in to place.

datlas 

I have not, and I agree it could be a cable routing issue. But this happens with the Roubaix which had bike-shop installed cables, so my suspicion is that I am too shifty. It's the only explanation that really makes sense to me.

Trsnrtr

Sram? I don't know about new Sram stuff but my older Red was rim brake.

datlas 

It's an option but:

1. I am thrifty and it's way cheaper to replace a cable every few months
2. I expect their support for rim brakes is gone/going away

I do hope to get one new bike in my lifetime, and that one will likely have those fancy newfangled disc brakes and electronic shifting. I am about to turn 58 in April, so I am thinking maybe for my 60th birthday.

That said, the Habanero is young compared to the Saturn (it's 14 I believe) and may outlive its owner.

datlas 

Thanks, their exposure to music has been such a gift.

MoAlpha

Gotta keep that cadence in a 5 rpm range or something?

phrantic09

SRAM makes rim brake ETAP AXS for what it’s worth.
Frayed cables during rides was the biggest reason I pulled the trigger to upgrade. Like you, I shift hundreds of times per ride.

bampilot06

R7000 and 400 miles.

datlas 

That's pretty early for a frayed cable. The symptoms of a frayed cable is that the RD will be more "sluggish" going to the 2 or 3 smallest cogs....and eventually will "refuse" to go into those cogs. If you keep using it the cable will break and then you are stuck in your smallest cog. You may want to give us more info on what your RD is doing/not doing as it's not clear to me this is the cause.

datlas 

Did you get similar cable lifespan of 2500-3000 miles??

phrantic09

Yes. Last one was about 2700

Velo Vol 

It's a known fact.

MoAlpha

I'd check the cable anyway.

datlas 

I am glad I am not the only one. Do you like the new setup??

bampilot06

Yesterday it wasn’t shifting crisp on most cogs, however I wasn’t paying attention if it was only up or down or both. I feel like both.

I cleaned the bike, degreased and re lubed the chain and worked on the indexing.

It’s still not crisp on all the gears but it’s shifting better than it was, but the smallest cog it will not shift consistently to.

If I slam through all the gears with the bike in the stand I can get it to go, but if I start on cog 2 and shift to cog 1 it doesn’t want to go. Yesterday maybe 6 out of 10 tries.

I just wiped the chain down and tried shifting to the number 1 cog (smallest) and no dice. 5 tries and it wont go.

At this point i’m just going to take it to the shop. The front derailer is out of trim as well.

seedsbelize2

This is not a put down of modern systems; only a simple statement. I had a brifter bike in the mid nineties and liked it enough, Before and since only downtube shifters, and never more than eight cogs in the rear. I can navigate almost everything I come across on my USA rides. Think 'The Storming of Thunder Ridge'. Here, in the land of 5% grades, I go entire rides without shifting.