New to tubeless
#1
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New to tubeless
Shakedown ride went great today, should I expect similar pressure drop over time compared to my tube setup? Used 95 psi with 25c’s on my old bike, 77 front, 79 rear on new bike with 28c’s. Even though I was concentrating on the new bike and new drivetrain I ended up going quicker on each segment.

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#2
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I lose about the same amount of pressure with tubeless, as tubed. I prefer orange seal endurance sealant. For pressure, see the zipp pressure calculator. https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure
I'm switching over to all hookless rims for the lowest pressure. I have 23mm and 25mm IW hookless rims.
I'm switching over to all hookless rims for the lowest pressure. I have 23mm and 25mm IW hookless rims.
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#3
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I lose about the same amount of pressure with tubeless, as tubed. I prefer orange seal endurance sealant. For pressure, see the zipp pressure calculator. https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure
I'm switching over to all hookless rims for the lowest pressure. I have 23mm and 25mm IW hookless rims.
I'm switching over to all hookless rims for the lowest pressure. I have 23mm and 25mm IW hookless rims.
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it depends I am using a new sealant that was made for cars and such and reformulated for regular bikes. I have gotten over a month without any air loss. last time I had air los was when the temps went from the 40s to the 20s. thats at a bit lower pis around 50 to 60.
#5
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My experience was that pressure loss got better. I did two bikes at the same time. My wife's bike had a moderate amount of loss that over time became the same as tubes. I assume because of better setting of the bead and spreading of the sealant. My bike had more loss that went away when I added sealant (I assume because I got the bead set better the second time around). Now both bikes don't lose anymore air than tubed bikes.
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If you are losing a significant amount of air between rides with tubeless, you usually have a problem with the taping job. My tubeless wheels stabilize once properly installed and maintain rideable pressure over longer periods of time. My other bike is latex tubed and thus loses 10-20 psi overnight thus necessitating re-inflation each time.
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Also check the valve stem, and the core is tight as well. I had a small leak that ended up being the core was not tight enough.
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Pressure loss will depend on how well your tires beads are sealed on the rim. The type, and especially the quality of the sealant used will make a huge difference.
I always ride 20-25kms immediately after installing new TL tires and sealant. It helps create a nice seal. In fact, some tire manufacturers like Schwalbe have included this step in their mounting instructions.
I always ride 20-25kms immediately after installing new TL tires and sealant. It helps create a nice seal. In fact, some tire manufacturers like Schwalbe have included this step in their mounting instructions.
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I've been playing with tubeless tires since 2012 - mtn, road, gravel. Currently have 5 bikes, 3 of them are tubeless. I've had bootleg tubeless conversions, factory taped, self-taped (1 and 2 layers), hookless, hooked...
I can offer one sweeping generalization regarding pressure loss: Compared to Tubed, Tubeless tires lose more pressure over the same time period.
Factors include: Everything the guys already mentioned plus (or maybes its multiplied by) the installer's skill level.
I can offer one sweeping generalization regarding pressure loss: Compared to Tubed, Tubeless tires lose more pressure over the same time period.
Factors include: Everything the guys already mentioned plus (or maybes its multiplied by) the installer's skill level.
Last edited by Zaskar; 02-08-23 at 01:05 PM.
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Same here as far as pressure goes. I've had many tubeless setups since 2016 and pressure loss overnight is a given for me. No big deal as I check pressure before every ride.
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Hey my guy at the LBS showed me a trick to seal tires. Get a 5 or 3 gal bucket. After the tire is aired and has sealant, set wheel and tire flat on bucket for a couple hours and then turn over for a couple hours let sit over night turn over etc. This really did the trick for sealing a stubborn tire that did not want to stay aired.
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^ That's a good tip. Will have to remember that one.
I've always use the "bounce and rotate" method to splash sealant all around inside the tyres, then pop the wheels back on the bike and go for a short ride!
This is a good Tubeless Install and Tips video:
I've always use the "bounce and rotate" method to splash sealant all around inside the tyres, then pop the wheels back on the bike and go for a short ride!
This is a good Tubeless Install and Tips video:
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Hey my guy at the LBS showed me a trick to seal tires. Get a 5 or 3 gal bucket. After the tire is aired and has sealant, set wheel and tire flat on bucket for a couple hours and then turn over for a couple hours let sit over night turn over etc. This really did the trick for sealing a stubborn tire that did not want to stay aired.
#14
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So…
I mounted the tires on a new build about 2 weeks before I finished the build. I seated them using an air compressor and kept them inflated to around 90 psi needing to refresh about every 2 days.
Monday AM was the time for the shakedown ride so I put 2 ozs in each tire with them off the bike, shook them back and forth then put them on the bike and spun them around good. Then I took them for a 15 mile ride.
It’s Wednesday night and they still have the pressure I set them at Monday AM. I used regular Orange Seal sealant. Tires are Schwalbe Pro One 28mm rims are Campy Shamal Carbons.
…
I mounted the tires on a new build about 2 weeks before I finished the build. I seated them using an air compressor and kept them inflated to around 90 psi needing to refresh about every 2 days.
Monday AM was the time for the shakedown ride so I put 2 ozs in each tire with them off the bike, shook them back and forth then put them on the bike and spun them around good. Then I took them for a 15 mile ride.
It’s Wednesday night and they still have the pressure I set them at Monday AM. I used regular Orange Seal sealant. Tires are Schwalbe Pro One 28mm rims are Campy Shamal Carbons.
…
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#15
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Great tips above. another tip if you haven't already... add a Valve core tool to your saddle bag. the little plastic ones will do, or the full sized one is still very small. check the VC when airing up before a ride.I converted my gravel bike with tubeless road tires the other day and had my second shakedown ride today and last night I checked and rear was flat. it was a loose valve core which I did not remove for installing the road tires but it was loose. I just replaced it entirely. Also pick up a package of replacement valve cores. I had them for my mt bikes. this is my first tubeless road set up. Enjoy your ride!
#17
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I've been playing with tubeless tires since 2012 - mtn, road, gravel. Currently have 5 bikes, 3 of them are tubeless. I've had bootleg tubeless conversions, factory taped, self-taped (1 and 2 layers), hookless, hooked...
I can offer one sweeping generalization regarding pressure loss: Compared to Tubed, Tubeless tires lose more pressure over the same time period.
Factors include: Everything the guys already mentioned plus (or maybes its multiplied by) the installer's skill level.
I can offer one sweeping generalization regarding pressure loss: Compared to Tubed, Tubeless tires lose more pressure over the same time period.
Factors include: Everything the guys already mentioned plus (or maybes its multiplied by) the installer's skill level.
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But, those car wheels don't have spoke holes. Hmm... Seems like that tape job is pretty important.
#19
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I buy wheels with no spoke access holes whenever possible. Many Fulcrum/Campy wheels and my BTLOS wheels require no rim tape. My Zipp wheels require tape.
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#20
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No rim tape needed on the Shamal’s either.
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#21
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thank you to Tempo for that vid. I have no tubeless bikes nor plans to have any, but I enjoyed learning.
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I lose 5-10psi per day on most of my tubeless installs, which is comparable to what I see with regular butyl tubes on higher pressure road tires.
The main difference is that tubeless tires seem to keep losing air until they go completely flat, so if left untouched for a month or so they will go completely flat. My tubed setups will lose a lot of air, but never go completely flat.
On lower pressure setups like gravel and MTB I get a lot less pressure drop, which is also true of tubed setups. My kid's bike has tubes, and at 35psi I won't need to touch them for many weeks.
The main difference is that tubeless tires seem to keep losing air until they go completely flat, so if left untouched for a month or so they will go completely flat. My tubed setups will lose a lot of air, but never go completely flat.
On lower pressure setups like gravel and MTB I get a lot less pressure drop, which is also true of tubed setups. My kid's bike has tubes, and at 35psi I won't need to touch them for many weeks.
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I lose 5-10psi per day on most of my tubeless installs, which is comparable to what I see with regular butyl tubes on higher pressure road tires.
The main difference is that tubeless tires seem to keep losing air until they go completely flat, so if left untouched for a month or so they will go completely flat. My tubed setups will lose a lot of air, but never go completely flat.
On lower pressure setups like gravel and MTB I get a lot less pressure drop, which is also true of tubed setups. My kid's bike has tubes, and at 35psi I won't need to touch them for many weeks.
The main difference is that tubeless tires seem to keep losing air until they go completely flat, so if left untouched for a month or so they will go completely flat. My tubed setups will lose a lot of air, but never go completely flat.
On lower pressure setups like gravel and MTB I get a lot less pressure drop, which is also true of tubed setups. My kid's bike has tubes, and at 35psi I won't need to touch them for many weeks.
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I use a 20 year old floor pump gauge, so we're not talking NASA accuracy here.
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Campagnolo 2Way fit wheels really shorten the learning curve when it comes to adopting road tubeless. I have owned my Shamal Ultra wheels for over 12 years now and setup has always been fairly easy. The earliest Hutchinson Fusion2 tires were more difficult to install than current offerings, but I quickly learned to mount them without tools and I have never had a problem getting them off either. Most of the bad experiences I have seen in this forum seem to be related to installation of rim tape which Campagnolo eliminated for their tubeless compatible wheels. BTW I also ride a LOOK
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