eduskator

Thanks. The list of hookless compatible tubeless tires isn't very long yet so I am restricted to a few models only (Pro One and GP5K S TR being two of them).

I wanted to try the GP5000 S TR but I've read reviews about how hard they are to mount and their short lifespan as well so I am not convinced enough yet that it may be worth switching. I can mount my Pro One using my thumbs only + they seat on my rims with a regular floor pump, which is great.

aliasfox

I'm running tubed, so only on regular 5000s. I thought the TR was supposed to be an improvement over the TL when it came to mounting, or am I mistaken?

eduskator

I thought that too, but I keep reading horror stories about the GP5k tire mounting experience in general. The S TR being the most recent tubeless version that's also hookless compatible, it looks like it's not any better. It's a tight tire, that's for sure!

surak

Where are you reading this? In my own experience and everything I've read confirms that the S TR is the easiest to mount by far. I can mount it by hand whereas I need to use the bead jack for pretty much every other road tire I've had going back to tube-type clinchers.

Hwnryd31

You guys are lucky then. I don't seem to get to the point to wear down the tires fully, they seem to get cuts and eventually "deadly" puncture that forces me to replace way before that.
The Schwalbe Pro One was really prone to that for me. With Pirelli TLR Zero I seem to at least get around 1500 miles - just replaced yesterday at around that mileage. Same happened last time out.
The sealant helped as this happened early in my ride and I was able to continue and finish for another hour. It's just that I noticed few small cuts after getting home in addition
to the leak and fixing the tire with a plug and taking my chances for additional rides is just not worth it to me.
Not sure if that's a matter of my roads, central NJ, or if I'm just that unlucky or maybe too heavy at 200lb. Either way, just chiming in.

rsbob 

6000 on this Conti 5000. Time for it to go to the great tire maker in the sky unless Larry is interested. 🥴

eduskator

Lucky you. My tires don't have the luxury to dry up and crack before the top portion of the tread wears down to a point where I see wires from the casing. Here's a picture of my Cadex Race tires after 2 months / 2 500kms (1500mi) of usage:


Total elevation in 2 500kms is 30 000m (almost 100 000ft).

bblair

eduskator, how can you only get 1500 miles out of a tire? I get more than that out of my tandem tires.

Those are either cheap tires or you are a big fella.

GhostRider62

GP5000 S TR does not last as long as the tubed original GP5000 due to thicker tread on the original. Something like 2400 miles vs 4000 miles. On rough chippy roads in hilly terrain in summer, the miles per tire go down. I don't really care anymore but when I rode a lot of miles, it mattered because my tire budget was only $1000 and some tires (schwalbe and Herse) are prone to early failure and that has to be taken into account as well as wear.

Jughed

2400+\- on my GP5000’s.

the rear was slightly flattened out, I just rotated them.

Sill have what looks like 50% of the tread left per the wear indicator.

Chandne

When I climb a lot, I burn through rear tires. I'll get 1,500 miles before I change them though I could prob go to 2,000. On flat ground, I'd prob get another 1,000, I guess.

eduskator

None of the above. I'm using top-tier tires (IE the Schwalbe Pro One) and my weight in the summer varies between 75-77kg.

So far, my conclusion is that there are 2 possible explanations:

1) Above average power generated resulting in the tire wearing faster.
2) I am climbing a lot (50 000m / 165 000ft of D+ so far this year after 4100kms / 2550mi)

bblair

Well, that is interesting because I recently mounted a set of Pro One tires, just for a change from my regular Conti 5000. We'll see how it goes.

But explain to me how climbing wears tires faster .Does that mean there is more slipping of the tire on the road? A mile is a mile, right?

GhostRider62

On steep hills, weight shifts almost entirely to the rear wheel and then what does up comes down fast on steep, twisty roads.

eduskator

I average 100w more when climbing than when on flat. Higher power = increased wear. Plus, there is more weight on it.

big john

As was mentioned, climbing increases the forces on the rear tire. The other thing about climbing hills is you are also descending those hills. When descending a twisty road you are braking harder and more often (at least I am) and turning at higher speeds than when riding on the flat.

bblair

Why is that? Is there more slipping of the tire on the road surface? How much of that is on a bike tire anyway?

I am not saying you are wrong, just trying to figure it out. And how would you devise a study to measure it?

eduskator

It's simple physics. The rear tire doesn't slip more, it just has more weight on it due to gravity. More weight = more friction = more wear.

Now, for the fact that I average more power during climbs than on flat, more power = more friction = more wear.

bblair

Ok, I get it. It has been a very long time since I had to analyze a diagram like that. I guess this explains why the front wheel can easily lift off the ground during a steep climb. And why the back wears more than the front.

Still, I change both together at about 5k miles.

Thanks for the explanation.

aliasfox

Update: sidewall tear on my GP4000 S2, about 1,700 mi. Tread still looked fine. Replaced with a GP5k, now 33 mi into its tour of duty…

88ss

Rotate your tires every thousand kilometers.

eduskator

Yeah, too much of a hassle when you're running tubeless. But you're right, it would help!

Rear one lasted 2000kms, the front one is still going strong after 4000kms!

aliasfox

I used to do this, but the tires I was on (Vittoria Rubinos) simply squared off far too quickly to be comfortable using in the front.

These days, my personal recommendation is to keep the front tire on the front, and replace the rear tire as-needed. That way, a slightly squared off tire is less likely to adversely affect handling, and the front tire gets more even wear side to side.

Of course, if you're a low mileage rider and can manage to work tire rotations in religiously every month, you have a shot at even wear across both tires.

big john

I seldom do any other maintenance, I'm certainly not going to switch my tires every month. 30 years ago I actually tried it a few times. Meh.

terrymorse 

I don't rotate. My front tire lasts until it's cracked and nasty looking, or it gets a fatal cut.

I am not moving that nasty thing to the rear.