I need to get better on the hills
08-28-23, 09:02 PM
#51
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There are several videos. They seem to be a perennial favorite of the GCN. Here is one:
The gist is the Alp Du Huez is a real place. The video game creators took real data, & recreated it for the simulator.
You need a Wahoo Kicker, a TacX Neo, A Saris H3, or some other interactive smart trainer to click your bike in to. What you are after here is interactivity...for the game world to translate to real life effort. The better smart trainers replace the bikes rear wheel. You will also need a Zwift subscription, the app on your bluetooth/ant+ computer/smartphone or other device and perhaps a heart rate monitor, as suggested elsewhere in the thread.
One popular option is to screen share between a phone with the app running and a compatible tv to display the game world. I run the app on a mac mini connected through an HDMI cable to a 72inch television. But pretty much any modern computer/laptop/smart device will work.
The gist is the Alp Du Huez is a real place. The video game creators took real data, & recreated it for the simulator.
You need a Wahoo Kicker, a TacX Neo, A Saris H3, or some other interactive smart trainer to click your bike in to. What you are after here is interactivity...for the game world to translate to real life effort. The better smart trainers replace the bikes rear wheel. You will also need a Zwift subscription, the app on your bluetooth/ant+ computer/smartphone or other device and perhaps a heart rate monitor, as suggested elsewhere in the thread.
One popular option is to screen share between a phone with the app running and a compatible tv to display the game world. I run the app on a mac mini connected through an HDMI cable to a 72inch television. But pretty much any modern computer/laptop/smart device will work.
Last edited by base2; 08-28-23 at 09:25 PM.
08-28-23, 10:40 PM
#52
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I don't subscribe to the "hard man" ideas in this thread, possibly because I don't do any serious rides of less than about 60 miles. OTOH, I've climbed 18% grades on a 400k, so there is something to the hard man theory. Problem is, it takes time to develop that level of strength and many people never will.
On long rides, it's all about HR and cadence. Those are the only two things I watch. I don't care about speed or distance except for navigation. I have a readout for gradient but mostly to fight discouragement - hey, it's not really that hard. I have a lower limit on cadence of about 75. If I find I have to drop below that limit due to gradient or being tired, I'll put on lower gearing. I've gone from a low gear of 30X25 (32 g.i.) in my 50s to 26X30 (23 g.i.) in my 70s. Gearing is the secret, not getting tough. Gearing will allow you to get stronger aerobically, which is what matters. Moreover, with simple gearing changes you can ride anythng you want, right now.
You were wobbling on the bike because your cadence was too low. Riding at 4 mph shouldn't be a problem. It's vastly more energy efficient to ride rather than walk and also much faster. On long rides, I see many inexperienced riders slowly, painfully turning their cranks when they could be comfortable and faster.
If you don't know what gear-inches (g.i.) means, google. That's necessary knowledge.
On long rides, it's all about HR and cadence. Those are the only two things I watch. I don't care about speed or distance except for navigation. I have a readout for gradient but mostly to fight discouragement - hey, it's not really that hard. I have a lower limit on cadence of about 75. If I find I have to drop below that limit due to gradient or being tired, I'll put on lower gearing. I've gone from a low gear of 30X25 (32 g.i.) in my 50s to 26X30 (23 g.i.) in my 70s. Gearing is the secret, not getting tough. Gearing will allow you to get stronger aerobically, which is what matters. Moreover, with simple gearing changes you can ride anythng you want, right now.
You were wobbling on the bike because your cadence was too low. Riding at 4 mph shouldn't be a problem. It's vastly more energy efficient to ride rather than walk and also much faster. On long rides, I see many inexperienced riders slowly, painfully turning their cranks when they could be comfortable and faster.
If you don't know what gear-inches (g.i.) means, google. That's necessary knowledge.
I definitely think the op needs to climb more hills to get the hang of it. We’ve all been there at some point.
08-29-23, 03:35 AM
#53
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This. Once you know what gearing works for you it's down to fitness and lower weight, IMO.
08-29-23, 03:36 AM
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You were wobbling on the bike because your cadence was too low. Riding at 4 mph shouldn't be a problem. It's vastly more energy efficient to ride rather than walk and also much faster. On long rides, I see many inexperienced riders slowly, painfully turning their cranks when they could be comfortable and faster.
.
I have a modern compact double on my road bike (35/33 lowest gear) and even that is marginal on the steepest gradients I encounter (which to be fair are >20%). But I often make use of the lowest gear on gradients <10% without spinning out.
Lower gears are your best friend when climbing gets tough. Even the pros have figured that out in recent years.
08-29-23, 04:00 AM
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That 10% difference also allows you to ride with 10% less minimum power at your minimum cadence before stalling. On a steep slope that 10% power reduction could make the difference between riding just below your limit and completely blowing up. I certainly make full use of 1:1 or near gearing on my road bikes and I’m a relatively strong climber for my weight.
08-29-23, 04:47 AM
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If we assume the steep portion is 500 feet at 15% and the rider is moving at 4.2 mph, that would be 3.3 W/Kg. It would be an 83 second effort. For most riders, this effort would be above threshold. Therefore, it would be imperative to arrive at the kicker-type wall with the "anaerobic" energy stores topped up. The way to do that is to control your pace on the lower and less steep sections. On the initial portion of the climbs, the gradient is under 3% and this is where you really have to keep your pace well below FTP, actually below LT1. Once it hits 10% just before the kicker, that 4.2 mph takes 2.2W/Kg. If 2.2W/Kg is functional threshold or higher, once the wall arrives, you are already half toast, meaning you have consumed a large portion your functional reserve capacity or W'. One can think of our cycling motors as a car hybrid, once you exceed the gas motor's limits, the battery kicks in but it has a limit amount of energy to put out before needing to recharge. The battery has to be saved for the wall.
With a power meter and knowing one's limits and sticking to them, it is almost impossible to blow up (on "normal" roads) even with less than ideal gearing. A heart rate meter is only partially helpful due to delays (V·O₂ slow component) once type 2 muscle fibres are being substantially recruited. Without a PM, if one has a Garmin that provides gradient and if one has a wheel sensor showing speed, one can approximate power levels and pace off that. So if you know 5 mph is a good limit on a 10% gradient, you watch your speed and the gradient indication. Of course this takes some mental juggling but that is how I did pacing on climbs when I did not have a PM.
Gearing lets you spare those type 2 muscles for when you need them. More type 1 fibers (endurance) are recruited at 90 rpm than say 60 rpm where more type 2 fibers proportionally are recruited, but paradoxically the lower cadence is more energy efficient (fat oxidation of type 1 fibers used more O2). For me, the easier I ride, the slower my cadence. The harder I ride, the faster my cadence.
With a power meter and knowing one's limits and sticking to them, it is almost impossible to blow up (on "normal" roads) even with less than ideal gearing. A heart rate meter is only partially helpful due to delays (V·O₂ slow component) once type 2 muscle fibres are being substantially recruited. Without a PM, if one has a Garmin that provides gradient and if one has a wheel sensor showing speed, one can approximate power levels and pace off that. So if you know 5 mph is a good limit on a 10% gradient, you watch your speed and the gradient indication. Of course this takes some mental juggling but that is how I did pacing on climbs when I did not have a PM.
Gearing lets you spare those type 2 muscles for when you need them. More type 1 fibers (endurance) are recruited at 90 rpm than say 60 rpm where more type 2 fibers proportionally are recruited, but paradoxically the lower cadence is more energy efficient (fat oxidation of type 1 fibers used more O2). For me, the easier I ride, the slower my cadence. The harder I ride, the faster my cadence.
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08-29-23, 05:06 AM
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This is true. I see a lot of riders struggling on steep grades with gearing too high for their ability. Their relatively high gearing forces them to ride at a power level they cannot sustain and they end up forced to walk. They would do much better with lower gearing.
I have a modern compact double on my road bike (35/33 lowest gear) and even that is marginal on the steepest gradients I encounter (which to be fair are >20%). But I often make use of the lowest gear on gradients <10% without spinning out.
Lower gears are your best friend when climbing gets tough. Even the pros have figured that out in recent years.
I have a modern compact double on my road bike (35/33 lowest gear) and even that is marginal on the steepest gradients I encounter (which to be fair are >20%). But I often make use of the lowest gear on gradients <10% without spinning out.
Lower gears are your best friend when climbing gets tough. Even the pros have figured that out in recent years.
08-29-23, 06:22 AM
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If we assume the steep portion is 500 feet at 15% and the rider is moving at 4.2 mph, that would be 3.3 W/Kg. It would be an 83 second effort. For most riders, this effort would be above threshold. Therefore, it would be imperative to arrive at the kicker-type wall with the "anaerobic" energy stores topped up. The way to do that is to control your pace on the lower and less steep sections. On the initial portion of the climbs, the gradient is under 3% and this is where you really have to keep your pace well below FTP, actually below LT1. Once it hits 10% just before the kicker, that 4.2 mph takes 2.2W/Kg. If 2.2W/Kg is functional threshold or higher, once the wall arrives, you are already half toast, meaning you have consumed a large portion your functional reserve capacity or W'. One can think of our cycling motors as a car hybrid, once you exceed the gas motor's limits, the battery kicks in but it has a limit amount of energy to put out before needing to recharge. The battery has to be saved for the wall.
With a power meter and knowing one's limits and sticking to them, it is almost impossible to blow up (on "normal" roads) even with less than ideal gearing. A heart rate meter is only partially helpful due to delays (V·O₂ slow component) once type 2 muscle fibres are being substantially recruited. Without a PM, if one has a Garmin that provides gradient and if one has a wheel sensor showing speed, one can approximate power levels and pace off that. So if you know 5 mph is a good limit on a 10% gradient, you watch your speed and the gradient indication. Of course this takes some mental juggling but that is how I did pacing on climbs when I did not have a PM.
Gearing lets you spare those type 2 muscles for when you need them. More type 1 fibers (endurance) are recruited at 90 rpm than say 60 rpm where more type 2 fibers proportionally are recruited, but paradoxically the lower cadence is more energy efficient (fat oxidation of type 1 fibers used more O2). For me, the easier I ride, the slower my cadence. The harder I ride, the faster my cadence.
With a power meter and knowing one's limits and sticking to them, it is almost impossible to blow up (on "normal" roads) even with less than ideal gearing. A heart rate meter is only partially helpful due to delays (V·O₂ slow component) once type 2 muscle fibres are being substantially recruited. Without a PM, if one has a Garmin that provides gradient and if one has a wheel sensor showing speed, one can approximate power levels and pace off that. So if you know 5 mph is a good limit on a 10% gradient, you watch your speed and the gradient indication. Of course this takes some mental juggling but that is how I did pacing on climbs when I did not have a PM.
Gearing lets you spare those type 2 muscles for when you need them. More type 1 fibers (endurance) are recruited at 90 rpm than say 60 rpm where more type 2 fibers proportionally are recruited, but paradoxically the lower cadence is more energy efficient (fat oxidation of type 1 fibers used more O2). For me, the easier I ride, the slower my cadence. The harder I ride, the faster my cadence.
-Learn the grades before the ride - I like to use Gravel Maps and manually put in a route over the sections of the climbs - it will give you grades.
-Bike Calculator website - put in weights, speed and grade and it will give you required power.
-BikeCalc website - will allow you to put in gear ratios and get RPMs in X gear at X Speed.
I recently did this for the Manayunk Wall (climb on the Philly national bike race). 8-10%, 17%, 8-10%. That = threshold - VO2 max - threshold to make it up the climb. Numbers were spot on. I was at 350W, 4.1 MPH, 60RPM on the 17% section. If I went above threshold on the lower part of the climb, I would have blown up on the 17% section.
Did the same for Mt Mitchell. Took a bit of time, but better than blowing up 1/2 way up the mountain.
08-29-23, 08:58 AM
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I’ve only been a “dedicated” cyclist about 4 years and when I first started I HATED hills. As my conditioning and gearing knowledge changed I now seek them out. However the best thing I did to get better at hills was to ride hills.
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08-29-23, 09:01 AM
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The very first tri(sprint) I did had a flat bike course with the exception of a steep hill about 500 yards long right before the halfway turn around. My bike had a 52/42 12-28 on it. On the pre race ride the week before I never got off the 52 ring until that hill. I got up the hill, but struggled. It was a momentum killer. The rest of the route was back on the 52. So, for race day I added a longer BB spindle, a 30T 3rd ring, adjusted the derailleurs and ran my left shifter as friction. That was it. Got to that hill and shifted the FD quickly to the 30T. Didn't mess with the rear. Rolled right up the hill and turned around. Passed a lot of entrants walking their bikes. Got back on the 52T and blasted back down the hill. That 3rd ring never left the bike after that. Same for the rest of my bikes.
Last edited by seypat; 08-29-23 at 09:22 AM.
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08-29-23, 09:53 AM
#61
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Statement of the thread! You can never have too much low gearing. Technique, HTFU, etc all become moot at some point.
The very first tri(sprint) I did had a flat bike course with the exception of a steep hill about 500 yards long right before the halfway turn around. My bike had a 52/42 12-28 on it. On the pre race ride the week before I never got off the 52 ring until that hill. I got up the hill, but struggled. It was a momentum killer. The rest of the route was back on the 52. So, for race day I added a longer BB spindle, a 30T 3rd ring, adjusted the derailleurs and ran my left shifter as friction. That was it. Got to that hill and shifted the FD quickly to the 30T. Didn't mess with the rear. Rolled right up the hill and turned around. Passed a lot of entrants walking their bikes. Got back on the 52T and blasted back down the hill. That 3rd ring never left the bike after that. Same for the rest of my bikes.
The very first tri(sprint) I did had a flat bike course with the exception of a steep hill about 500 yards long right before the halfway turn around. My bike had a 52/42 12-28 on it. On the pre race ride the week before I never got off the 52 ring until that hill. I got up the hill, but struggled. It was a momentum killer. The rest of the route was back on the 52. So, for race day I added a longer BB spindle, a 30T 3rd ring, adjusted the derailleurs and ran my left shifter as friction. That was it. Got to that hill and shifted the FD quickly to the 30T. Didn't mess with the rear. Rolled right up the hill and turned around. Passed a lot of entrants walking their bikes. Got back on the 52T and blasted back down the hill. That 3rd ring never left the bike after that. Same for the rest of my bikes.
08-29-23, 11:16 AM
#62
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True, but when you are bogged down close to your minimum cadence any reduction in gearing makes life easier. It becomes more a matter of riding vs walking rather than optimum cadence. I think the OP would do much better with gravel gearing, at least on the hilly part. Walking half a mile is a big time loss and very inefficient.
08-29-23, 12:42 PM
#63
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I think it's best to adjust our gearing to allow us to get as close to a 70 rpm cadence or where ever we achieve near max sustainable power as practical while climbing long steep hills. In the op's case that would require some serious low gearing of about 20 gear inches. 26/34 cogs with a 27" tire. If he can't make close to max power at 70 rpm, he'll need even lower gears. By all means practice climbing with these gears. More torque is a good thing too, But gearing is king for climbing in my book.
it would help if we knew what gears he was using, and what are available on the bike. Unless he's on a mountain bike, I think it unlikely he has this kind of gearing.
it would help if we knew what gears he was using, and what are available on the bike. Unless he's on a mountain bike, I think it unlikely he has this kind of gearing.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 08-29-23 at 02:28 PM.
08-29-23, 12:45 PM
#64
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Also, the OP sort of indicated they might not have been in the lowest gear ratio.
So what also might need to be cleared up is what the OP thinks is a decent rate to spin. I consider my legs to be weak, so I compensate by spinning a high cadence and sitting for most all my climbs. My climbing cadence is often faster than my cruising cadence. So typically 90 rpm or faster. As another pointed out, at 4.5 mph someone with typical road bike gearing isn't spinning a very high cadence. In a 36-30 the cadence would be less than 50. And if there was a lower gear that could be shifted to, then for shame, because as also pointed out by another a faster cadence just helps with balance. On our MUP, I have no issue following walkers at 3.0 mph until they clear the oncoming traffic and I can pass.
As well the actual grade and ascent distance would be nice to give us some perspective as to whether it was what others might consider a hard climb or just a long climb requiring some constant grinding away. The OP has been riding for a while. So unless they only ride irregularly and just one day a week or less, they should be in acceptable riding shape.
I think the gearing is OK, I guess. It's not like I ever ran out of gear. I could keep spinning at a decent rate, but I was going so slowly that I was wobbling all over the place.
As well the actual grade and ascent distance would be nice to give us some perspective as to whether it was what others might consider a hard climb or just a long climb requiring some constant grinding away. The OP has been riding for a while. So unless they only ride irregularly and just one day a week or less, they should be in acceptable riding shape.
08-29-23, 10:38 PM
#65
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OK, guys. I didn't intend to abandon this thread, I just got caught up with work the last couple days. But I took a minute and went out to the garage and checked my gearing. Now this is ONLY the tooth count for the lowest (highest?) gear, but I have 30 teeth on the front and 23 on the back.
As far as the fitness, I don't think it's so much that I'm not fit, at least from an endurance or strength perspective. It's that I'm carrying too much weight. I got pics from the event tonight. I have virtually no fat on my arms or legs but I hate to admit I'm pretty soggy around the mid section. Don't want to give too much away but I'm carrying a whole extra bike worth of weight that's not doing any work.
OK, I don't want to come off like a ***** but I can tell you that will probably never happen. First, it sounds way above my pay grade. Sounds like a lot of investment in just getting that set up. I buy old, used bikes because I can't afford even entry level (quality) new bikes. Second, I am a loud and proud technophobe. I barely get online and post on forums, and you're talking about bluetooth and apps and connectors. Just too far beyond my capabilities. Sounds interesting and all, but just too overwhelming to me.
As far as the fitness, I don't think it's so much that I'm not fit, at least from an endurance or strength perspective. It's that I'm carrying too much weight. I got pics from the event tonight. I have virtually no fat on my arms or legs but I hate to admit I'm pretty soggy around the mid section. Don't want to give too much away but I'm carrying a whole extra bike worth of weight that's not doing any work.
There are several videos. They seem to be a perennial favorite of the GCN. Here is one:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YaoqPzDtRbs
The gist is the Alp Du Huez is a real place. The video game creators took real data, & recreated it for the simulator.
You need a Wahoo Kicker, a TacX Neo, A Saris H3, or some other interactive smart trainer to click your bike in to. What you are after here is interactivity...for the game world to translate to real life effort. The better smart trainers replace the bikes rear wheel. You will also need a Zwift subscription, the app on your bluetooth/ant+ computer/smartphone or other device and perhaps a heart rate monitor, as suggested elsewhere in the thread.
One popular option is to screen share between a phone with the app running and a compatible tv to display the game world. I run the app on a mac mini connected through an HDMI cable to a 72inch television. But pretty much any modern computer/laptop/smart device will work.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YaoqPzDtRbs
The gist is the Alp Du Huez is a real place. The video game creators took real data, & recreated it for the simulator.
You need a Wahoo Kicker, a TacX Neo, A Saris H3, or some other interactive smart trainer to click your bike in to. What you are after here is interactivity...for the game world to translate to real life effort. The better smart trainers replace the bikes rear wheel. You will also need a Zwift subscription, the app on your bluetooth/ant+ computer/smartphone or other device and perhaps a heart rate monitor, as suggested elsewhere in the thread.
One popular option is to screen share between a phone with the app running and a compatible tv to display the game world. I run the app on a mac mini connected through an HDMI cable to a 72inch television. But pretty much any modern computer/laptop/smart device will work.
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08-29-23, 10:45 PM
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OK, guys. I didn't intend to abandon this thread, I just got caught up with work the last couple days. But I took a minute and went out to the garage and checked my gearing. Now this is ONLY the tooth count for the lowest (highest?) gear, but I have 30 teeth on the front and 23 on the back.
As far as the fitness, I don't think it's so much that I'm not fit, at least from an endurance or strength perspective. It's that I'm carrying too much weight. I got pics from the event tonight. I have virtually no fat on my arms or legs but I hate to admit I'm pretty soggy around the mid section. Don't want to give too much away but I'm carrying a whole extra bike worth of weight that's not doing any work.
OK, I don't want to come off like a ***** but I can tell you that will probably never happen. First, it sounds way above my pay grade. Sounds like a lot of investment in just getting that set up. I buy old, used bikes because I can't afford even entry level (quality) new bikes. Second, I am a loud and proud technophobe. I barely get online and post on forums, and you're talking about bluetooth and apps and connectors. Just too far beyond my capabilities. Sounds interesting and all, but just too overwhelming to me.
As far as the fitness, I don't think it's so much that I'm not fit, at least from an endurance or strength perspective. It's that I'm carrying too much weight. I got pics from the event tonight. I have virtually no fat on my arms or legs but I hate to admit I'm pretty soggy around the mid section. Don't want to give too much away but I'm carrying a whole extra bike worth of weight that's not doing any work.
OK, I don't want to come off like a ***** but I can tell you that will probably never happen. First, it sounds way above my pay grade. Sounds like a lot of investment in just getting that set up. I buy old, used bikes because I can't afford even entry level (quality) new bikes. Second, I am a loud and proud technophobe. I barely get online and post on forums, and you're talking about bluetooth and apps and connectors. Just too far beyond my capabilities. Sounds interesting and all, but just too overwhelming to me.
for comparison, I ride with 36 in the front and 34 in the back, which is about 20% “easier” to pedal than your setup - and my bike is only 7% of my body weight. some of us need all the help we can get going uphill!
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08-29-23, 11:20 PM
#67
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30 in the front and 23 in the back is likely too high of a gear for someone with your (assumed) power to weight ratio to maintain an efficient cadence on a steep-ish climb. I know that I wouldn’t be happy with that gearing, and I ride a very, very light bike without a lot of extra weight on me. simple first step would be to see if you could put a cassette in the back with a bigger big cog, which shouldn’t be expensive, even if you need a new derailleur cage.
for comparison, I ride with 36 in the front and 34 in the back, which is about 20% “easier” to pedal than your setup - and my bike is only 7% of my body weight. some of us need all the help we can get going uphill!
for comparison, I ride with 36 in the front and 34 in the back, which is about 20% “easier” to pedal than your setup - and my bike is only 7% of my body weight. some of us need all the help we can get going uphill!
08-29-23, 11:31 PM
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So ya gotta make a decision. What is going to be faster or allow you to continue on competitively in the race?
Mashing up to the top of the hill, spending every last bit of reserve energy you have?
Or
Hoisting that bike to your shoulder and sprinting to the top?
I have no Cone Of Shame. I'll drop into my BiPedal Gear in a heart beat.
My bikes are set up with a 34T cog and a 34T ring. When I get to that 1:1 ratio and find myself slowing down then its time for me to go to my Size 12D gear... Ha
Mashing up to the top of the hill, spending every last bit of reserve energy you have?
Or
Hoisting that bike to your shoulder and sprinting to the top?
I have no Cone Of Shame. I'll drop into my BiPedal Gear in a heart beat.
My bikes are set up with a 34T cog and a 34T ring. When I get to that 1:1 ratio and find myself slowing down then its time for me to go to my Size 12D gear... Ha
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08-30-23, 05:08 AM
#69
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So ya gotta make a decision. What is going to be faster or allow you to continue on competitively in the race?
Mashing up to the top of the hill, spending every last bit of reserve energy you have?
Or
Hoisting that bike to your shoulder and sprinting to the top?
I have no Cone Of Shame. I'll drop into my BiPedal Gear in a heart beat.
My bikes are set up with a 34T cog and a 34T ring. When I get to that 1:1 ratio and find myself slowing down then its time for me to go to my Size 12D gear... Ha
Mashing up to the top of the hill, spending every last bit of reserve energy you have?
Or
Hoisting that bike to your shoulder and sprinting to the top?
I have no Cone Of Shame. I'll drop into my BiPedal Gear in a heart beat.
My bikes are set up with a 34T cog and a 34T ring. When I get to that 1:1 ratio and find myself slowing down then its time for me to go to my Size 12D gear... Ha
Invariably IME when guys get off their bike during a steep climb they are done and never to be seen again. They certainly don’t come running past with their bike over their shoulder 😂
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08-30-23, 05:33 AM
#70
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Heart rate monitors are cheap. You can get one on AliExpress for about $15 IF you have a bike computer that receive the input. They have those too for cheap.
As stated above, it is all about power to weight. The less weight you have to move the more competitive you will be, I’m 6’1” and have been working for the last 6 months to get my weight down to ideal precisely to help climbing. Have half a pound to go. But then I do it by half pounds rather than making huge goals which can feel defeating when I don’t hit them.
At 68, my max heart rate is 192 but that is unusually high.
As stated above, it is all about power to weight. The less weight you have to move the more competitive you will be, I’m 6’1” and have been working for the last 6 months to get my weight down to ideal precisely to help climbing. Have half a pound to go. But then I do it by half pounds rather than making huge goals which can feel defeating when I don’t hit them.
At 68, my max heart rate is 192 but that is unusually high.
08-30-23, 06:34 AM
#71
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But I took a minute and went out to the garage and checked my gearing. Now this is ONLY the tooth count for the lowest (highest?) gear, but I have 30 teeth on the front and 23 on the back.
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OK, I don't want to come off like a ***** but I can tell you that will probably never happen. First, it sounds way above my pay grade. Sounds like a lot of investment in just getting that set up. I buy old, used bikes because I can't afford even entry level (quality) new bikes. Second, I am a loud and proud technophobe. I barely get online and post on forums, and you're talking about bluetooth and apps and connectors. Just too far beyond my capabilities. Sounds interesting and all, but just too overwhelming to me.
==============================
OK, I don't want to come off like a ***** but I can tell you that will probably never happen. First, it sounds way above my pay grade. Sounds like a lot of investment in just getting that set up. I buy old, used bikes because I can't afford even entry level (quality) new bikes. Second, I am a loud and proud technophobe. I barely get online and post on forums, and you're talking about bluetooth and apps and connectors. Just too far beyond my capabilities. Sounds interesting and all, but just too overwhelming to me.
To the Zwift: If you have pretty much any device with an internet connection it is an option. Then it's up to the smart trainer. I'm including a link so that you can see the options on the used market in your local area are quite a bit cheaper than new prices, not because I expect you to buy one. The GCN do tend to come off as Elite & I'm seeking to show that a smart trainer is remarkably affordable and readily available. https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/sear...rch=1~grid~0~0
Indeed, they can be a$$-kickers. I abandoned this weeks Alp Du Zwift attempt last night. It was just too damn hard for what I had in me at the time. That's sort of the point. It's a useful training tool for all riders at all abilities & the workouts are tailored to your specific abilities with real world likeness. Had I tried such an attempt in the real world, I'd be by the roadside walking, too. Instead, I failed from the comfort of my own back-bedroom.
The real goal is the structured interactive workouts in a controlled environment available anytime. There is an entire game world available. The Alp is but one small area.
Last edited by base2; 08-30-23 at 06:49 AM.
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08-30-23, 07:10 AM
#72
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Ya. This is the stuff I'm still learning about. It's hard for me to get a good grip on what I need for these types of climbs since my current gearing is more than adequate for the modest hills in my immediate area. I have to drive a good 30 miles or more to get some place where I can duplicate the kind of grades I rode last Saturday.
Keep in mind there are folks out there riding a single speed bike with a 60+ gear inch cog set who are climbing most of the hills we do. There may in fact be some merit in riding both a single speed bike, or use only one gear of 60+ gear inche to increase high load stamina for accelerating and hills, and alternating with a 18+ speed bike for sustaining the cadence required to maintain optimal power on the flats.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 08-30-23 at 07:29 AM.
08-30-23, 08:38 AM
#73
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The advantage of better gearing for climbing like an 11-34 cassette mated with a compact or subcompact double crankset, is you will be able to tackle those 8%+ pitches, switchbacks and inclines with more variety in your cadence and remain fresher longer.
Heck, you may even be able to rest on shallower climbs because you find your sweet spot in your cadence and power output that does not overly tax your CV or muscular chains.
A 30-23 combo would not work for me at 6'2" 210 lbs if I wanted to climb in the mountains.
I would want a 1:1 ratio although I have ridden up mountains with a 34-27 climbing gear.
Heck, you may even be able to rest on shallower climbs because you find your sweet spot in your cadence and power output that does not overly tax your CV or muscular chains.
A 30-23 combo would not work for me at 6'2" 210 lbs if I wanted to climb in the mountains.
I would want a 1:1 ratio although I have ridden up mountains with a 34-27 climbing gear.
Last edited by CAT7RDR; 08-30-23 at 08:44 AM.
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08-30-23, 08:52 AM
#74
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Even with a 11-34 cassette, OP's cadence would still be very low if he climbs at 4.2MPH. A gravel bike or MTB would be needed to accommodate this speed and reach a ''reasonable'' cadence (80+).
I use a 10x28 cassette on a 35/48 crankset and 10kph (6.2mph) is the slowest I can go if I want to maintain a reasonable cadence.
I use a 10x28 cassette on a 35/48 crankset and 10kph (6.2mph) is the slowest I can go if I want to maintain a reasonable cadence.
Last edited by eduskator; 08-30-23 at 08:59 AM.
08-30-23, 08:58 AM
#75
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Ya. This is the stuff I'm still learning about. It's hard for me to get a good grip on what I need for these types of climbs since my current gearing is more than adequate for the modest hills in my immediate area. I have to drive a good 30 miles or more to get some place where I can duplicate the kind of grades I rode last Saturday.
Getting better at climbing is one of the most rewarding activities in cycling. You got this.
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