djgonzo007

I'm currently riding on the stock "Bontrager Selects" that came on my Klein Aura V which I purchased 3 weeks ago. I just hit 100 miles on the bike and was just wondering how long will/should these tires last me?

Matt Gaunt

Ages. Like 1000 miles or so. Except if you hit the edge of a pot-hole. Found a VERY large gash down one of my Conti tyrewalls today and had to order another from the LBS. Not impressed. Only had 700 on it and was in pretty good nick. Damn those potholes!

johnny99

I get upwards of 2000 miles on Michelin and Continental lightweight tires. Touring tires will last somewhat longer. Sometimes road debris can seriously shorten that, though.

shnapper

Body weight is also a contributing factor in tire life. I'm on the heavy side for a rider(198lbs)I can flat spot a rear tire in 1,800 miles.

djgonzo007

Besides mileage when looking at the tire what are the "signs" it's time to replace the tire ?

martin_j001

If the sidewalls have cracks, if you can see the threads, if the center section of the tire is flat or balded...you'll be able to tell....

johnny99

A flat center section is nothing to worry about, on the rear tire at least. I replace tires when the rubber has worn down to the threads or when road debris has cut a hole down to the threads.

martin_j001

When you replace the tire is ultimately up to you, but when the tread is gone and the center section of it is flat, you are losing a lot of the features you buy the tire for in the first place: low rolling resistance, dual tread technology (in many, not all tires), better grip on the surfaces you ride on, and of course the tread itself is gone too.

johnny99

That may be true if you use touring tires with tread. Most racing/training tires these days are bald to begin with.

martin_j001

^^True, but everything else still applies to all tires. If a tire with a flat center section was better in any way, they'd be sold that way too though. Its usually a good indicator that it is time to replace the tires soon....

johnny99

My rear tires start developing a flat spot at about 1000 miles. I usually replace them at somewhere over 2000 miles. The flat spot has never been a problem for me, even on long fast switchbacked downhills.

martin_j001

I'm glad that works for you--I'd be pretty happy to get 2k on a tire. Being a bigger guy (around 230 or so), I don't get that much life out of tires, and I tend to choose tires that ride well and aren't known specifically for lasting that long in the first place (like the Vittoria Open Evo CX--great ride, not long life ). I retire mine shortly after they square off for use on my "trainer wheel". In the end, when you change your tires will really be up to you--other people can offer their tips and advice, which may or may not work well for you.... I find that I can greatly affect the way the bike handles and rides by keeping fresh, high quality tires on the wheels, and I don't have a problem replacing tires when I feel they need to be replaced.

djgonzo007

I agree, I've done the same with car tires and bike tires are pennies compared to what I've spent on performance tires for my car.

No Exit

Hey, I just ordered a Trainer and was wondering if I should order an extra wheel for the bikes that will be on it. I can see the benifits of having a wheel with a cheap skewer to toss on. This is gonna sound freakin ******** to some of you but what all would I need to get? wheel, cassette, etc. And will getting lower end stuff for the spare wheel make any difference?

martin_j001

I use a seperate wheel for the trainer. You can usually find one for around $60 or so from Nashbar or Performance, or even online. There won't be much load placed on the wheel while its on your trainer, so it doesn't have to be of excellent build quality either. I don't think this is absolutely necessary by any means, but I prefer to have a trainer specific wheel. I've got the wheel and a 105 9s cassette and skewer that I use with my trainer....

krazyderek

You should see the gouges in my tufo's, looks like someone took a hole punch to it lol, but with tubless, and high tpi count i have no worries pushing 60km/h on down hills.



My tires feel, ok, i'm sure i'll feel a difference when i put a new rear on, i'm more of a chain person though, nothing floats my boat like the feel of a silky smooth new chain *mmmm*. Anyways, i have about 1500k on my c-elites, and i'm hopping my rear will make it to the fall so i can wear it out on my rollers over the winter. Kinda stupid to put a new tire on for winter

No Exit

Another ignorant question.. I've got a 10s DA on my bike... will it matter if I get a trainer replacement thats 9s or 105... anything else for that matter? Or will any wheel and cassette do?

johnny99

If you want to be able to shift gears, then you need a 10 speed cassette to match your 10 speed shifters. 9 speed Shimano wheels should work with 10 speed cassettes.