Help in selecting cassette size???
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Help in selecting cassette size???
I am in the process of buying the components for the new road bike I am putting together. I have decided to go with the campy record gruppo. There are several choices in cassette size. I am wondering what size cassette you guys might recommend and why. what are the advantages and disadvantages of each. The choices are 11-23, 12-25, 13-26, and 13-29. the area where I intend to ride has some hills.
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Firstly excellent choice of group set. It all depends i'm running a 11-23 and love it (though it's seems to be a macho coffee shop discussion the old "what cassette are you running 13-29! you girl?") , but every now and again especially on tired days would love the extra two teeth to get up a hill. And rarely put it into the 11 except for motoring. You would have to access how fit you are (stresses especially on kness) , cadence, terrain, racing or training. It's only my opinion but there is no simple answer, explain to your bike store what you intend doing and stlye of riding and they will put on the appropiate. And pretty sure that the cage lengths of your rear mech will change, so if you go the 13-29, and a year latter you want the 11-23 it may not work with that mech.
Good luck
Good luck
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It all depends on the length and gradient of the hills. If the hills are 7% or less, a 23 tooth should be OK. If they are steeper than this for long periods than a 25 might be necessary. I live in the hills and use a 12-25 and have never found a hill I can't get up with this. Although on longer rides (100km/60miles) it would sometimes be nice to have an extra gear for the last few hills on the way home.
CHEERS.
Mark
CHEERS.
Mark
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thanks for the info guys,
are there ant disadvantages in going with the 13- 26??? I know that if you go with the 13-29 you have to get a larger rear derailleur.
are there ant disadvantages in going with the 13- 26??? I know that if you go with the 13-29 you have to get a larger rear derailleur.
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12-25 is the do-all, cogset for me. great range. the 13-26 is fine but you might miss the 12 on fast rides or downhill/ sprints/etc.
the 39x25 has worked for me on the steepest grades and have never needed anything more.
If you feel that you will be hitting alot of difficult climbs, go for the 26. If you just think you need a bailout gear, you will end up missing the 12 and never use the 26.
the 39x25 has worked for me on the steepest grades and have never needed anything more.
If you feel that you will be hitting alot of difficult climbs, go for the 26. If you just think you need a bailout gear, you will end up missing the 12 and never use the 26.
#6
Just ride.
Go for the 13-26. I find that I spend a lot more time in the low gears than I do in the high ones. The few times that I use my 53/12 it's rare that I catch myself pushing levers and wishing for a higher gear. But on long, hot climbs, when I'm in my 39/27, I'm almost always wishfully pushing the lever to get into that 39/29 that doesn't exist.
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what gears someone else uses has nothing to do with what you need.Do they know your strength or conditioning or how steep or long the hills??Would I ask some total stranger what gears I need?Really! Hell no!If you think you need low gears from some experience with riding ,then base the decision on that. Otherwise,go with the 13x29. If that's too low then the 13x26 is a do everything set for most people.
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Pokey is actually on to something here... Cassette choice is a very personal thing. I have 11-23 on my road bike. I find the 23 perfectly adequate for most of the climbing I do, and since I'm moistly a flatlander, I actually appreciate having that way-high-gear. I don't use the 11 all that often, maybe a few times a year, and I'll never be able to spin it, but it's nice to have to grind out of the saddle in a sprint.
On the other hand, I have a 13-26 on my cyclocross bike. I do more climbing, the tire pressure is lower and I'm grinding through dirt on that, so I don't need the very-high-end [my highest gear there is 48x13].
I think 12-25 is a perfect, all-around block, if you don't live in a particularly moutainous area. That would give you 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25. The Record cassette is mostly loose cogs, though the last two pairs are bolted together. That means that, if all else fails, you can always replace the 23-25 cog pair with a 23-26 pair if you find you REALLY want that low gear.
Personally, I think the 29t cog is overkill unless you live in the mountains.
On the other hand, I have a 13-26 on my cyclocross bike. I do more climbing, the tire pressure is lower and I'm grinding through dirt on that, so I don't need the very-high-end [my highest gear there is 48x13].
I think 12-25 is a perfect, all-around block, if you don't live in a particularly moutainous area. That would give you 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25. The Record cassette is mostly loose cogs, though the last two pairs are bolted together. That means that, if all else fails, you can always replace the 23-25 cog pair with a 23-26 pair if you find you REALLY want that low gear.
Personally, I think the 29t cog is overkill unless you live in the mountains.
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The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
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when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.
The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
Cycling irregularly since 2002
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considerations when choosing cassette:
~what chainrings am I using? [flyefisher]
~how strong is my conditioning? [pokey]
~what terrain do I intend to ride? [dutchy, pokey]
~note also: lighter wheelset means less rotational inertia--->means easier pedaling--->means higher gears--->means capable of smaller cogs.
~weight of cassette if you are counting grams (circa 150-300g)
~ability to modify/upgrade by changing out cogs [velocipedio]
~what chainrings am I using? [flyefisher]
~how strong is my conditioning? [pokey]
~what terrain do I intend to ride? [dutchy, pokey]
~note also: lighter wheelset means less rotational inertia--->means easier pedaling--->means higher gears--->means capable of smaller cogs.
~weight of cassette if you are counting grams (circa 150-300g)
~ability to modify/upgrade by changing out cogs [velocipedio]
#11
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Go with 13-26. You'll surely spend more time in the low gears than the high ones. Moreover, it'll give you a bit more room to keep a higher cadence in the climbs.
Assuming an average wheel size (here 700x23C), A 53X13 would allow to do 51 kmh (34.4 mph) at 100 rpms, a 53X12 would give you 55 kmh (32 mph).
A 39x25 would give you a speed of 15.7kmh (9.8 mph) at 80 rpms and a 39x26 would give you 15.1 kmh (9.4 mph).
Although that makes the difference seem much smaller in the low gear area, I think you'll notice the difference more when you are on the road.
Cheers,
Jamie
Assuming an average wheel size (here 700x23C), A 53X13 would allow to do 51 kmh (34.4 mph) at 100 rpms, a 53X12 would give you 55 kmh (32 mph).
A 39x25 would give you a speed of 15.7kmh (9.8 mph) at 80 rpms and a 39x26 would give you 15.1 kmh (9.4 mph).
Although that makes the difference seem much smaller in the low gear area, I think you'll notice the difference more when you are on the road.
Cheers,
Jamie
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Why not get both?, the 13X26 for longer tougher hills and/or early season and the 11X23 for when you're in better shape or for flatter rides? Is there a 12 or 13X23 available? Very, very few people are strong enough to really need/use an 11, and you'd gain a more usable gear in the middle of the cassette you might miss with an 11.
I have- 13X21, 13X23, 12X25 and a 13X26 (8-spds) for my main ride and use them all! and I wish I could still get a 12X19, 21 and 23. I'd only need the 12 on some sprints, to "keep-up" on fast descents or time-trials with some downhill grades.
When I get bike with a 10 spd set- up, I"ll get a group of casettes for it too!
My faves are the 13X23 and 13X26 in my present fatness.
(No, you don't have to change chain length for them)
Ride Many Gears
Pat
I have- 13X21, 13X23, 12X25 and a 13X26 (8-spds) for my main ride and use them all! and I wish I could still get a 12X19, 21 and 23. I'd only need the 12 on some sprints, to "keep-up" on fast descents or time-trials with some downhill grades.
When I get bike with a 10 spd set- up, I"ll get a group of casettes for it too!
My faves are the 13X23 and 13X26 in my present fatness.
(No, you don't have to change chain length for them)
Ride Many Gears
Pat
Last edited by pat5319; 08-27-02 at 01:20 AM.
#13
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Good point, Pat.
All you'd need is a lockring tool, a chainwhip and the cassettes. You're going to end up replacing cassettes and cogs every couple of years [more frequently if you don't keep your chain clean] anyway, so it might actually pay to have a couple of cassettes. Campy makes a 12-25, which I think is an ideal everyday spread. I personally use a 11-23, and I was at the LBS yesterday, having my chain and cogs checked. The wrench looked at the wear on my 11t and said "wow... you actually use that?" Yep... I do...
All you'd need is a lockring tool, a chainwhip and the cassettes. You're going to end up replacing cassettes and cogs every couple of years [more frequently if you don't keep your chain clean] anyway, so it might actually pay to have a couple of cassettes. Campy makes a 12-25, which I think is an ideal everyday spread. I personally use a 11-23, and I was at the LBS yesterday, having my chain and cogs checked. The wrench looked at the wear on my 11t and said "wow... you actually use that?" Yep... I do...
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when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.
The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
Cycling irregularly since 2002
when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.
The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
Cycling irregularly since 2002
#14
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I ride a 12x27 (Ultegra) in the spring and move to an 11x23 in May or June. Since it's hilly where I live I use the 12x27, which sits on a spare wheel, for recovery rides.
However, if forced to choose I'd take a 12x25 as the best all-around choice.
However, if forced to choose I'd take a 12x25 as the best all-around choice.
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Can't you get a wider range? My old 10 speed road/touring bike (the Sentenal) has 11-31. I use 11 a lot more than the 31, but it is nice for a break on a long hill.
Joe
Joe
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Just my .02 but I'd go with both cassetts. I'm a big guy 6'3" 225-230. I had a 12-23(shimano) and rode a century in East Tenn. 3 state 3 mountain. I about died. I got home and upgraded to a 12-27, and it made an incredible difference in my riding. It even made me a faster rider. Cause now I could motor easier up the local hills, and then take off at the top. Before I was in recovery longer and would get dropped most every time.
I can't say I'm looking forward to that ride again, but I know I'll do better with the proper gearing for my size.
Good Luck
Mike
I can't say I'm looking forward to that ride again, but I know I'll do better with the proper gearing for my size.
Good Luck
Mike
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I suggest the following approach using gear inches:
1. Determien the highest gear inches you are comfortable with, typically 100 to 104. This defines the small cog if your large chainring is already fixed.
2. Detemrien the lowest gear inches you need, typical 27 for sport touring on steep hills and lower if doing loaded touring. This defines the largest cog if your smallest chain ring is already fixed.
3. Pick the casette with the above high and low cogs and ensure the intermediate cogs are properly spaced.
A triple may provide the following:
The needed granny chain ring while giving closer spacing on the larger 2 rings.
Allow for a smaller large cog.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
1. Determien the highest gear inches you are comfortable with, typically 100 to 104. This defines the small cog if your large chainring is already fixed.
2. Detemrien the lowest gear inches you need, typical 27 for sport touring on steep hills and lower if doing loaded touring. This defines the largest cog if your smallest chain ring is already fixed.
3. Pick the casette with the above high and low cogs and ensure the intermediate cogs are properly spaced.
A triple may provide the following:
The needed granny chain ring while giving closer spacing on the larger 2 rings.
Allow for a smaller large cog.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ