Alternative crankset for Campy 10?
 

I have taken the plunge and ordered a new frame, partly based on the experience and postings of Forum member "blandin" (thank you for your helpful advice!). It is a Titanium Sports, and I am eagerly anticipating its arrival. Now, I need to think about components.

In order to have wheels interchangeable with my current bike, I will stay with the Campy 10 drivetrain. But, I would like to use a different crankset/bb and instead use a crank with either 110 or 130 bcd. This will allow me a greater selection of chainrings, like a 48 or 50 tooth outer ring, not possible with Campag (with possible exception of expensive TA rings).

So, my question is, what crankset/bb should I choose? Is 110 or 130 bcd the better choice for availability of quality chainrings? Is "octalink" to be embraced or avoided? Which crankset would have the same Q-factor as Campy (I want to avoid different fit between bikes)?

Thanks for your input!

Why not go with a Campy Record CT compact, 110 BCD? There are 3 optional chainring sets, 50/36, 50/34, 48/34, and also compact specific front derailleurs.

Al

I wasn't aware of a compact Campy crank until your post. Now that I've googled it, I see it is around $700, way too much.

Octalink is in the Shimano bin for planned obsolesence.

No way... Shimano DA 7800 all-the-way.

I use an FSA Carbon Pro compact crankset; it has a 110 BCD. It works beautifully with my Campy 10 setup. No idea about the "Q" factor. My setup uses an ISIS bottom bracket -- I've heard some issues concerning reliability of the ISIS internal-bearing models. I'm at 4,000 miles without a problem, but you might want to also consider the MegaExo models to get external bearings and their suppossed benefits.

Thanks Kevin. I have just looked at the FSA website and I am impressed with their products. They have a good selection of chainrings, and even list Q factor for each crankset. I see they have aluminum models too.

The chainline is important, too, and it sounds like yours is fine. Not always the case when mixing different vendor's drivetrain components.

How about these FSA cranksets on ebay with "buy it now" prices, some under $250?

http://sporting-goods.search.ebay.co...Z1QQsofocusZbs

The Campy stuff has an MSRP out there, but retail is more like 350 - 400. Look around a bit, I think you'll be surprised.

Hey 95RPM - Glad to hear you decided to take the plunge on the TST frame and I hope you're as happy with yours and I am with mine. As to cranks, I'm full DA 9 on my TST, but I do own an FSA carbon crank that's been great, very high quality, light and stiff. Also, I just put a Ritchey compact crank on one of my bikes, enjoy it a lot, and have been wondering how a compact would work on my Ti. I will likely try it out sometime next summer. Hope to see pictures when you're finished with your build.

Compacts? FSA K-force Mega-Exo 50/34, w/Chorus 11-23 cassette. If not the K-Force, my wife has the FSA Carbon Pro-Elite. Got it on sale for $220. Awesome crank. OF course, there ar elots out ther. But, for the money, those are the best bang for your buck.

There is however, a new player on the field for price. Performance has a new 50/34 Compact carbon crank that is apparently really nice. I haven't heard many reviews on it though, but it can be gotten on sale for under $200. Imay just give that one a shot for giggles on my next bike. We'll see.

Campy alloy crank all the way. Unless you're doing uphill time trials professionally, you won't notice the difference except in your wallet.

Otherwise, Stronglight Pulsion (vanilla or CT2) or Stella Azurra make good alternatives. If compact is a must, Campy Centaur has an alloy compact crank ~$150.

My new bike arrived with a Deda Elementi D-Force compact 50/34. I did not want or expect it, but now that I have a couple of thousand Km on it, I love it. See it here: http://perso.wanadoo.fr/masong4/casati

Campy will have newer less expensive and all AL compact cranks this year. They are releasing a Veloce and Centaur AL compact crank for 06, look for it in the next several months. Don't know the pricing but you can assume that they will be WAY cheaper than the CF versions that they have been selling.

If you can't wait that long the Ritchey WCS compact is very nice, this is the one I am using. The only issue which really isn't an issue at all is that it uses a Shimano Octalink BB. I haven't had any issues with the Octalink BB so I don't consider it an issue really.

http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets....&cid=7&pid=228
http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets....&cid=7&pid=226
http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets....&cid=7&pid=220

http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=CR3254

I've been using the Ritchey WCS Compact with Octalink on one of my bikes all summer. It's a great crank and I've never had trouble with this or any other Octalink BB. The nice thing about this crank is that it's available from aebike for $125.99 http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=CR3253

Truvativ Roleur carbon with their GigaX Pipe bb, 53/39 (130 bcd, 44.5 mm chainline) here. Works beautifully with the Miche 10s cassette, Centaur derailleurs and Veloce 10s brifters....

I run FSA SL-K's with the Mega-Exo external BB on one of my bikes with Chorus 10. Easy install and it works great. I went for the bling factor of carbon for less than $300, but FSA has a number of cheaper models with more chainring options.

I just sold a NIB Mavic 631, known to have very low Q, and is an absolutely gorgeous high quality item. Had it laying around for 14 years, and recently thought about putting together a complete gruppo. Felt a twinge of regret while boxing it up, but what the heck. The new owner will use it with Campy.

I got a Gossamer FSA Megaexo Compact crank to put on my bike. It will be used with Chorus DR's front and rear... Record shifters. I got it for $125 from fullcycles.com and thought it would be a great way to see how I liked a compact for not a lot of cash. I figured I could get a nicer crank in the future if I really liked the compact and wanted to get an upgrade. If not... I could either stick with the Gossamer, or get a traditional double.

I appreciate all of your responses. I have two 'finalists' choices, based on the gearing they would give me. One is a Ritchey cyclocross crankset, with 38x48 rings and a 12-23 cassette. The other is a Chorus crankset, with 42x52 rings, and a 13-26 cassette. Both have about the same gearing and have the advantage over my current setup (39x53, 11-23) of good midrange gearing on the large ring, and about the same range on the small ring as my current setup.

Practical considerations are that the 42x52 Chorus crankset is not easily found. Also, the Q-factor of the Ritchey crank is likely about 4mm less than that of my other bike (with Chorus). I do not want to make my knees unhappy as I switch between bikes with different Q-factor. Does anyone have experience with this? Is 4mm peanuts or is it substantial to one's knees?

Also, for those using the Miche 10-sp cassette, is the quality about the same as Chorus? It looks like I can get a 12-23 10-sp Miche cassette from RepartoCorse that gives me an 18-cog in place of the (useless) 11 on an otherwise 11-23, a good substitution.

Thanks!

I don't know why people are afraid of triples. I just bought a Centaur 52/42/30 triple crankset for $89 brand new and the Centaur FD was around $40. Yes it adds the weight of a small chainring but my new build will still weigh less than 19 lbs and I'm using relatively heavy Vento wheels. Yes, some say that triples don't shift as well. My only experience is with my Campy triple Veloce and it outshifts my Ultegra double whatever difference must be very subtle. If, like me, you aren't a pro racer and you need some low gearing for the harder hills, the triple is a very practical solution. I'm building my new triple as we write. Congratulations on the build project. Post some images as you move along.

95RPM - I don't understand why you would go from a 53/39 to a 52/42 for lower gearing. Just change the cassette and skip the front crank change.

Because I am happy with with range of my current 39x(11-23), but find the 53x(11-23) too high. If I take your suggestion, I get gearing on the 39 that is lower than I want. If I go with 42x52 and 13-26, or 38x48 and 12-23, I preserve my inner ring gears, while getting nice mid-range gearing on the large ring.