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My NEW road bike... well...

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

My NEW road bike... well...

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Old 09-14-05, 01:16 AM
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my58vw
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Well... it is not really a road bike but it will spend nearly 90% of the time on the road so...

I just picked up a Giant Boulder for under 200 dollars, almost 240 with a new rack, clips, kickstand, etc. A few wekks back I broke the old beater (steel) that I had been doing errands on ect and the boulder was dirt cheep and I like the ride of the steel over the aluminum in the cheeper frames (abit heavier, but who cares).

Here are the pics of the bike... my new commutter and errand bike





It is running shimanos 7 speed setup with some wierd 14-34 setup (like a 14-22 or something with a 34 ring... yuck!) It has some crappy suntour cranks that I suspect will last less than 2 months under my riding habits (I broke the suntour cranks on my steel bike at work in under 45 days) and mashing. I never touch the small ring on the MTB (a 22 or something), I ride mostly in high middle or in big ring (22-32-44), the top gear is a 44-14. I personally find anything below a 32-21 basically unsuable on the steet (except when climbing).

Shimano makes a 14-32 cassette (14-15-18-21-24-28-32) which I think would use the gear spread better and is cheep (about 25 dollars). My LBS is recommending though that I go with a road triple on the bike vs the MTB triple I was looking at. I can get one realitlvly cheep and have a 30-42-52 gear system. That leads me to some questions though.

1. DO I need to change the FD?

2. Can I go any smaller with the middle ring (say a 38 or 39)?

3. Are their BB problems or other shifting issues with this setup?

BTW a 42-32 is roughy equaivlent to a 32-24 (34.5 gear inches) and the 30 goes down to 24 gear inches compared to 18 gear inches for the MTB cassette (only for the nastiest hills).

4. Should I make the conversion after all?


Thanks as always!

BTW for those who will ask, my commute is direct 8.9 - 9.2 miles depending on which street I take, and can be as long as 16+ miles each way with one "little" hill on the long route, the direct route is basically flat (not really but). I commute at around 10:30 pm for a midnight to 8 am shift.

Also before anyone asks why a MTB vs a used roadie... I have crappy roads at work, I also want something that can handle dirt, sand, curbs, etc, and be comfortable and upright (to a point) because I carry a backpack on my commutes (right before school)...
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Old 09-14-05, 01:25 AM
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One more question...

5. Nashbar makes the following crankset... 48-38-28 triple would that be a better combo tham say a 53-39-30 or 52-42-30?

Here is the link to the "touring" crankset...

Clickie

And here is a chart of the gearing for the back of the bike.

WEIGHT------258 GRAMS (WEIGHT TAKEN FROM 13X23)
MATERIAL----STEEL COGS WITH A SILVER MATTE FINISH. SPACERS/PLASTIC
CHAIN-------ANY 7/8 SPEED CHAIN. BEST CHAINS (SH-CNHG91 OR SH-CNIG90)
GEAR SIZE---(12-28T) 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28
(13-30T) 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 30
(14-32T) 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32
(13-26T) 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 26
(13-23T) 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23
(13-21T) 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21
(12-21T) 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21
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Old 09-14-05, 01:41 AM
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ivan_yulaev
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This is probably something that should go in the commuting forum.

Aside from that, I think a road crankset would be in order. On my dad's converted MTB, I run out of gears fast, as spinning out a 44x12 (or whatever the top gear is) is really not that hard.

14-22 with a 34 is the best, gives you more room to play, with a super-nice granny gear :-P My dad's hybrid, Giant Cypress, has one like this. Small chainring + granny cog gives you something like 24" gear...
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