What Ever Happened to Threaded Forks?
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What Ever Happened to Threaded Forks?
What Ever Happened to Threaded Forks? And headsets?
I mean, I know they're still around, but you don't really see them at all on new bikes.
Are threadless forks that much better? Are they that much lighter?
Honestly, I think the old style threaded headset at least has the potential to be much more attractive.
Perhaps this should be in the "Classics and Vintage" thread.
I mean, I know they're still around, but you don't really see them at all on new bikes.
Are threadless forks that much better? Are they that much lighter?
Honestly, I think the old style threaded headset at least has the potential to be much more attractive.
Perhaps this should be in the "Classics and Vintage" thread.
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Damn good questions. I have two bikes from the 1980s with threaded forks, and I think the campy headset and cinelli stem and handlebars ARE more attractive.
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Originally Posted by Blackberry
I have two bikes from the 1980s with threaded forks, and I think the campy headset and cinelli stem and handlebars ARE more attractive.
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Back when I went threadless on my road bike ('93-ish) I did it because I figured I could work on the headset with my existing tools, and not have to be bothered buying the proper headset wrench. Never thought threadless would take off on road bikes though.
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Originally Posted by sydney
That plays well with the classic and vintage crowd,but don't try selling it to the weight weenies, bling addicts, and poseur's.
Also plays well with the "I have more money in the bank" crowd 'cause they don't cost much at all.
I can sort-of see the point about tools, but how often do you need to pull the whole headset? Up and down I can do with a alan wrench. Actually, the whole headset to, really. Just have to have the cups taken out by my LBS which they'll do for free if I ask nice.
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At first it was much simpler for manufacturers to produce only one production fork. With threaded, they had to cut and thread several length fork stems. 220, 240, 260, etc
With threadless, the customer cuts the steerer to their desired length. They also did not have to calculate stack heighth anymore. Just install the threadless headset of choice and cut to fit. Spacers provided safety margin for error.
Eventually, the simplicity of changing stems became more of an advantage. Especially true for bicycle fittings. I can change rise and reach in just a few minutes. WIth removeable endcaps, the bars can come off without unwrapping the tape. And threadless stems offer so many choice that were unavailable with quilltype stems. 90,100mm, 110, 120, 130, 140
Rise or drop can be accomplished just by flipping the stem over upside down.
With threadless, the customer cuts the steerer to their desired length. They also did not have to calculate stack heighth anymore. Just install the threadless headset of choice and cut to fit. Spacers provided safety margin for error.
Eventually, the simplicity of changing stems became more of an advantage. Especially true for bicycle fittings. I can change rise and reach in just a few minutes. WIth removeable endcaps, the bars can come off without unwrapping the tape. And threadless stems offer so many choice that were unavailable with quilltype stems. 90,100mm, 110, 120, 130, 140
Rise or drop can be accomplished just by flipping the stem over upside down.
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It's mostly about weight. I replaced a threaded fork, steel steerer, CF legs with an all carbon fork, mag stem, and took a full pound off the bike. But it would have been a lot more cost effective to take a full pound off the engine.
Al
Al
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Apart from the convenience factor threadless stems are secured much more firmly than the old quill type stems. Quill stems are only secured at one narrow point by a split bolt (EDIT: or would you call it a wedge. What ever its called). I remember reading somewhere that the threadless system was developed for mountain bikes because they needed more strength and the plain commonsense of the design made its way to road bikes.
Regards, Anthony
Regards, Anthony
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Originally Posted by AnthonyG
Apart from the convenience factor threadless stems are secured much more firmly than the old quill type stems. Quill stems are only secured at one narrow point by a split bolt (EDIT: or would you call it a wedge. What ever its called).
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I have never had a Quill come loose, however if impact crashed, the stem and handle bar will twist in the steerer.
Threadless stems are lighter, however not as adjustable in height as a quill (given the 1" max height) Also the exposed bolts remind me of something that belongs on a MTB, really not as sculpted and pretty IMHO.
However I suppose in the end function before form if it really matters
Threadless stems are lighter, however not as adjustable in height as a quill (given the 1" max height) Also the exposed bolts remind me of something that belongs on a MTB, really not as sculpted and pretty IMHO.
However I suppose in the end function before form if it really matters
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sydney is right on. Threadless on big diameter tubes arewithout a doubt stiffer which if you know what fits and have your position down it fantastic. Performance wise, it's much better than a quill stem. All that said, a threadlessIt is much more difficult to tweek your way into a good riding position with a threadless rig as a flipped stem is often much to big an increment of adjustment. Sure, you can stack and unstack spacers, but it's not quite as nice as a quill stem in that regard. Threaded headsets are more difficult to adjust, but not all that hard really.
And it's true...lugs, brazed steel, threaded stems, etc.... just take more labour for largely aesthetic returns. Of course for many that's the point, and that's OK! Late model Ferrari's are slick, but there's not much sweeter than a 63 corvette or a 66 Jaguar E type.
And it's true...lugs, brazed steel, threaded stems, etc.... just take more labour for largely aesthetic returns. Of course for many that's the point, and that's OK! Late model Ferrari's are slick, but there's not much sweeter than a 63 corvette or a 66 Jaguar E type.
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Originally Posted by ViperZ
I have never had a Quill come loose, however if impact crashed, the stem and handle bar will twist in the steerer.
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I replaced a threaded fork, headset, quill stem on my merlin extralight with a threadless headset, carbon fiber steerer tube. It saved over a pound of weight off the bike. Also the stem is much stiffer than the quill stem was.
Big advantage of a threadless set up is that it allows carbon fiber steerer tubes.
I have to agree that the quill stem is more attractive. The Cinelli stem on my Paramount is far more graceful, than the Newton on the Merlin.
Big advantage of a threadless set up is that it allows carbon fiber steerer tubes.
I have to agree that the quill stem is more attractive. The Cinelli stem on my Paramount is far more graceful, than the Newton on the Merlin.