White Lightning - Goop on Chain?
#1
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White Lightning - Goop on Chain?
I started using White Lightning about 2 weeks ago. While the chain noise is down, I've noticed a paste building up on the links. I thought this dirty wax was supposed to fall off. What's the deal. Is this normal?
PS - I ride on pretty clean streets. So it's not like I'm riding over packed dirt or anything.
PS - I ride on pretty clean streets. So it's not like I'm riding over packed dirt or anything.
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You need to wash off the old WL every time you re-lube. This isn't a problem for mountain bikers who regularly hose off their bikes. On a road bike, WL can really gum up your drivetrain.
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I like WL but you have to real wipe the extra off after it dries or this is what you get. It is prety good at self cleaning if you shake it up good then apply. I normally just put the drops on the links and wipe down a few seconds latter.
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Just wrap a rage around the chain and crank is around a few times them re-lube, this will work fine until you just have to clean the chain and start over.
I run the crank backwards and put a little WL on it first, this loosens up the old WL that will then wipe right off.
I run the crank backwards and put a little WL on it first, this loosens up the old WL that will then wipe right off.
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Ralph (not Ralphie) on a Roubaix in
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I had the same problem with ProLink. I was wiping the chain down, then applying lube to each roller, then leaving it to dry. Wrong! A week later, the chain would look pretty grungy. I realized that, after applying the lube, you also have to thoroughly wipe off all the excess. It really only takes a tiny fraction of a drop per roller to achieve good lubrication; any extra just provides a lot of tackiness to collect dust and dirt.
- Warren
- Warren
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I dont like White Lightning. I like the green stuff( I think its Finish Line)...
Green stuff seems to lube much better imo
Green stuff seems to lube much better imo
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Originally Posted by chroot
I had the same problem with ProLink. I was wiping the chain down, then applying lube to each roller, then leaving it to dry. Wrong! A week later, the chain would look pretty grungy. I realized that, after applying the lube, you also have to thoroughly wipe off all the excess. It really only takes a tiny fraction of a drop per roller to achieve good lubrication; any extra just provides a lot of tackiness to collect dust and dirt.
- Warren
- Warren
George
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I had the same experience of "paste buildup" with WL. Now I only use it to lube my Speedplay Frog cleats.
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Originally Posted by chroot
I had the same problem with ProLink. I was wiping the chain down, then applying lube to each roller, then leaving it to dry. Wrong! A week later, the chain would look pretty grungy. I realized that, after applying the lube, you also have to thoroughly wipe off all the excess. It really only takes a tiny fraction of a drop per roller to achieve good lubrication; any extra just provides a lot of tackiness to collect dust and dirt.
- Warren
- Warren
There's no reason to wipe off excess. It also dosn't build up if you put it on in moderation. I just put it on like I said above every couple hundred miles. I never have problems with buildup or drivetrain noise.
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My LBS talked me out of White Lightning when I first went in for chain lube citing exactly this issue. The guy was actually working on a bike and showed me exactly what happens with that gumed up stuff. Great so it is easy to get off your chain with a rag but the RD was totally gummed up. He said that he and the owner use Boeshield T-9 on their drivetrains. I have been using it for a year now and love the stuff.
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[QUOTE=StanSeven]Whoa. Way too much lube. All it takes is sqeezing a few drops at maybe three of four spots on the chain. Run the crank backwards and it gets the chain lubricated.
QUOTE]
I do the same thing cbroot does. This is also what the Master Tech at the local REI store taught me.
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???
QUOTE]
I do the same thing cbroot does. This is also what the Master Tech at the local REI store taught me.
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???
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[QUOTE=SesameCrunch
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???[/QUOTE]
No. I meant squirt some out on 3 or 4 spots on the chain and run the chain backwards while it's wet. I'm talking about like a few drops each time. WL is a parrafin based lube. It gets worked into the chain and on the cogs with use.
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???[/QUOTE]
No. I meant squirt some out on 3 or 4 spots on the chain and run the chain backwards while it's wet. I'm talking about like a few drops each time. WL is a parrafin based lube. It gets worked into the chain and on the cogs with use.
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[QUOTE=StanSeven]
No. I meant squirt some out on 3 or 4 spots on the chain and run the chain backwards while it's wet. I'm talking about like a few drops each time. WL is a parrafin based lube. It gets worked into the chain and on the cogs with use.
Stan,
I understood you the first time and do not buy that at all. There is no way a few drops spaced around the chain will gravitate to all the links, least of all the metal to metal areas between the rollers and the connectors. I've been using WL for a year now and get NO build up on the RD and the chain cleans up very nicely. Some bike mechanic or a "Master Tech" can be just as wrong as I can be and also be just as prejudice and gullible to the suggestions of sales reps (or the owner) as anyone.
Originally Posted by SesameCrunch
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???[/QUOTE
How would 3 or 4 drops on the chain would lubricate the rest of the links???[/QUOTE
No. I meant squirt some out on 3 or 4 spots on the chain and run the chain backwards while it's wet. I'm talking about like a few drops each time. WL is a parrafin based lube. It gets worked into the chain and on the cogs with use.
Stan,
I understood you the first time and do not buy that at all. There is no way a few drops spaced around the chain will gravitate to all the links, least of all the metal to metal areas between the rollers and the connectors. I've been using WL for a year now and get NO build up on the RD and the chain cleans up very nicely. Some bike mechanic or a "Master Tech" can be just as wrong as I can be and also be just as prejudice and gullible to the suggestions of sales reps (or the owner) as anyone.
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Originally Posted by biker7
I have read that but we may have to agree to disagree. I too have been a long time White Lightening user. I wipe the chain down with Simple Green on the bike and let it dry a bit and then apply White Lightening to the chain.
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I stay away from the WL stuff except for use on pedals and cleats. On the drivetrain, I use either Finish Line Teflon or Rock-n-Roll Gold.
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I noticed the same thing. I thought wax-based lubes were better, so I tried White Lightning and then Pedro's Ice Wax. Dirt City! And yes, I still wiped down the chain after a good lube. Not to mention after 70 miles my chain was noisy again.
I use Pedro's Road Rage now and it works great. No complaints. Switching to an SRAM PC-89R Hollow Pin chain seemed to help (on the noise), too.
I use Pedro's Road Rage now and it works great. No complaints. Switching to an SRAM PC-89R Hollow Pin chain seemed to help (on the noise), too.
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Originally Posted by johnny99
Standard Simple Green is corrosive. You need to rinse it off after use.
George
Last edited by biker7; 10-13-05 at 10:36 AM.
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I'm going to go back to using Castrol GTX to lube my chain when I finish my bottle of White Lightning. It seems to get about as dirty as when I use Castrol GTX...however, it does not lubricate as well nor as long as Castrol GTX (at least in dry weather)...
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Originally Posted by biker7
Nope...anti-corrosive properties of White Lightening neutralize Simple Green's acidic assault on metal which incidentally is virtually negligible when evaporated. Also hardened steel used for chains...sprocket materials vary...but chains...with either high nickel or stainless but always high tensile steel are more impervious than softer metals and in particular Aluminum.
George
George
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Originally Posted by zooropa530
I noticed the same thing. I thought wax-based lubes were better, so I tried White Lightning and then Pedro's Ice Wax. Dirt City! And yes, I still wiped down the chain after a good lube. Not to mention after 70 miles my chain was noisy again.
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Originally Posted by johnny99
You need to wash off the old WL every time you re-lube. This isn't a problem for mountain bikers who regularly hose off their bikes. On a road bike, WL can really gum up your drivetrain.
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I tried the White Lightning (white stuff) and did not like it. However, they have another product called White Lightning Epic, which is clear and non-waxy, which I like a lot better. Less goop buildup.
I don't know if it *works* any better or worse, but it *looks* better
I don't know if it *works* any better or worse, but it *looks* better
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Originally Posted by johnny99
You need to wash off the old WL every time you re-lube. This isn't a problem for mountain bikers who regularly hose off their bikes. On a road bike, WL can really gum up your drivetrain.
What kind of mileage you getting out of our chains?
Care to share?
George
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use the white lightning metal prep (the aerosol) to clean and some other thing to lube (T9 is good stuff) doesnt leave that crappy residue on the chain, leaves your chain all shiney and quiet running.