Open Pro durability??
#1
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Open Pro durability??
Need new wheels for my "second bike"--by no means a beater or rainbike. It gets ridden regularly and seriously. In other words, a set of "training wheels".
Looking at a nice deal on Mavic Open Pros. Question: for regular riding (165lbs.) are these relatively durable rims? I don't need bombproof...just a regular set of wheels that don't feel like pot metal. don't mind going to 36 spokes.
Looking at a nice deal on Mavic Open Pros. Question: for regular riding (165lbs.) are these relatively durable rims? I don't need bombproof...just a regular set of wheels that don't feel like pot metal. don't mind going to 36 spokes.
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I am in the 150-160 range for weight. My OP's are set up with 32 DT Revolution spokes 3 cross laced to chorus hub front and rear. I have had not problems with this combination. I rode around 2000 miles on them last year and they haven't been touched since I did the final truing at around mile 100 (2-3 good rides).
I find them to be a great set.
I find them to be a great set.
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They are a real durable set of wheels I personally CX race on them each weekend and I throw everything I can throw at them and with my 185lb they are still true.
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I haven't used Open Pro's yet although I like you was looking around for information about them. Some love them and some have had cracks at the eyelets. Recently I read this article which may explain things, https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.htm
Basicaly Peter is saying that you shouldn't use straight gauge spokes on lightweight rims like Open Pro's and lightweight butted spokes are much better with light rims so this may be the answer. If your getting wheels custom built then specify butted spokes. The problem wheels are most likely the Ultegra/Open Pro specials that can be had from eBay which are most likely machine built with straight gauge spokes that are too rigid for a lightweight rim like an Open Pro.
Regards, Anthony
Basicaly Peter is saying that you shouldn't use straight gauge spokes on lightweight rims like Open Pro's and lightweight butted spokes are much better with light rims so this may be the answer. If your getting wheels custom built then specify butted spokes. The problem wheels are most likely the Ultegra/Open Pro specials that can be had from eBay which are most likely machine built with straight gauge spokes that are too rigid for a lightweight rim like an Open Pro.
Regards, Anthony
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I have nothing but good things to say about Open Pros. I use mine on my CX bike, which means they see abuse. I'm 210 lbs, and use my OPs commuting on the city streets, jumping curbs, and hitting occasional pot holes. Also, I do light mountain bike trails with the same bike. I have them lased with strait gage spokes on an ultegra rim, and I've only had to true them a few times in the last 3 years.
Obviously the quality of a wheel depends on the build quality. OPs can be had pretty cheap on mail order, but I've had some machine built wheelsets that just didn't stay true, until I re-tensioned all the spokes...for what it's worth..
Obviously the quality of a wheel depends on the build quality. OPs can be had pretty cheap on mail order, but I've had some machine built wheelsets that just didn't stay true, until I re-tensioned all the spokes...for what it's worth..
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They are basically the most reliable rims you can buy for the money. But there are other rims that are just as good and can be purchsed for a reasonable price, like Velocity aerohead. I have both and my Velocities are radial laced with DT 14-17-14 spokes except for the drive side using 14-15-14 gauge 3X. The velocities has a better aerodynamic ride to it than the Open Pro. I had a chance to test this against each other on a ride with the same friend, his same bike and mines too, "the Crest hwy". Big diff., that's my take.
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When I was planning my custom Spectrum, I asked Tom Kellogg for the best wheel that balanced weight, performance, relability and durability. He gave me Open Pros. No complaints ~7,000 miles later.
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Open Pro is a very solid rim. You might want to check out DT's RR 1.1. It's very similar, but cheaper and a little lighter.
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The reliability of the wheel is more a function of the quality of the build than any inherent characteristic of the rim itself. You can make an unrelialble wheel with an Open Pro rim and you can make a very reliable wheel with a lesser rim. The Open Pro has a good weight to cost ratio. Judge it that way rather than on reliability.
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Originally Posted by NJWheelBuilder
Open Pro is a very solid rim. You might want to check out DT's RR 1.1. It's very similar, but cheaper and a little lighter.
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I'm over 200 pounds and ride them. They are perfect for my requirements.
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Originally Posted by fmw
I like these rims as well as the Open Pro myself. They are slightly aero and will make a pretty light wheel if you choose the right componentry. Here's an image of my RR1.1 wheels.
And since fmw started it here are mine.
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Put it this way, when people discuss Velocitys and DTs, they compare them to OPs. This is partly because of the sheer volume of OPs that have been sold over the years, and partly because of the justified reasons for those sales.
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Originally Posted by pigmode
Put it this way, when people discuss Velocitys and DTs, they compare them to OPs. This is partly because of the sheer volume of OPs that have been sold over the years, and partly because of the justified reasons for those sales.
Nothing wrong with OPs but for my money I am buying the RR1.1.
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
True, the OP has been around for ever and has been the gold standard clincher for quite some time...but times change, DT Swiss is now making a road rim which is a similar design (the RR1.1) but as it wasn't designed 20 years ago or whatever it is lighter and tad cheaper while still being durable. IMO in this case new is better.
Nothing wrong with OPs but for my money I am buying the RR1.1.
Nothing wrong with OPs but for my money I am buying the RR1.1.
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Originally Posted by jbhowat
Uh. RR1.1's are more expensive than the basic model Open Pro, the silver non-ceramic ones.
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The Open Pro rims that are hard-anodized grey are the best (and cost a little more).
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ive been using open pros sice they first started making then and wsere called open 4s. the work great and have no problems with them. the set on one of my bikes probably has 30,000 miles on them. i build the wheels myself and always use brass nipples, the aluminum ones get messed up after years of truing. i like to use light spokes all around and straight 14 gauge on the drive side of the rear wheel. 320 hole works fine for me and i was up to almost 200 pounds at the beginning of last year (now ~175) and i ride them very hard (jumping off curbs, usiing them for cyclocross, etc.)
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Open Pros are good. My back up set are those. They replaced some MA2s, non anondized box shaped rims that are also still hanging in the garage and are very strong. Some people say that the MA2 being non anodized are better on the braking surface. I would say that the main thing that I don't like about my Open Pros were that the brake surface was anodized.