UmneyDurak

So I pick up continental sprinter with gator skin tubulars from LBS yesterday at the end of my ride. I get home, and realize that they have short valves. My new wheels are deep rim. I mentioned these to LBS when I ordered my tubulars. So I assumed that they would order the correct ones. I drive there (it's about to close), and basically told that continnental doesn't make tubulars with long valves and my only option is some kind of extenders. Is this true? Also what is the disadvantage of extenders?

These wheels have been nothing, but trouble for me. I'm stil waiting for Ritchey to sent me the rear tubular wheel. Since the first time they sent me front tubular and rear clincher (I ordered two tubulars).
Thanks.

2Rodies

They all use extenders. I use the Tufo extenders on my Reynolds Stratus DV's with Vittoria CX's with no problems.

chzman

i use vittoria valve extenders on my corsa cx tyres for zipp 404 rims... some manufacturers like tufo have different length of extenders for optimum exposure outside the rim, just fyi

fogrider

I like to use a little teflon tape on the treads...most of the extenders come with a little gasket.

Cleave

Hi,

Yes you need extenders. All of my deep section tubular wheels, Mavic and Zipp, came with extenders. Zipp recommends leaving the extenders on all of the time. Also, my Mavic clinchers came with extenders.

A little OT, but a LBS person told me that clincher tubes only come in medium and long valve stems now. My normal clinchers (Mavic Open Pro rims) don't need the extra valve lenght and I typically find that using long valve tubes on those wheels leads to valve failue where the valve attaches to the tube. I am guessing this is because of the higher forces (leverage) when removing the pump head from the valve stem.

UmneyDurak

How is that teflon tape working out? I should have checked more closely, my front wheel (still waiting for the back) did came with a metal extender, but not with any gasket. So air escapes where it screwes to the valve, so it's impossible to pump it to more then 30 psi.

pinky

You don't need a gasket on the extender, since the extender protects the valve, it can't be pressed and no major leak. Just screw it on tight and you should be fine, and if you're really worried just check it every ride. And if that doesn't work...I'll buy them for a 100 off EP price...

UmneyDurak

I did screw it tightly, and air doesn't escape because vale is depressed. It escapes because pressure inside the extender is high enough to push the air through where it screws on to the valve. Now back to my question.

merlinextraligh

+1 on the teflon tape. Also I like the aluminum valve extenders that also extend the core so you can open and close the valve, as opposed to the plastic ones that come with Zipps. I've had occassions where the valve stuck closed and it was virtually impossible to get it open with just air pressure. The aluminum valve extenders that screw into the core solve this problem

DannoXYZ 

I just use a little screwdriver to tap on the valve down in the extender to make the little psffft before pumping just like normal...

2Rodies

This is why I use tubulars with removable valves. The extender then goes into the valve stem and the valve is on top where I can get to it.

UmneyDurak

Hmm, any particular brand/tyre?

UmneyDurak

So since we are on the subject of Tubulars and me asking stupid questions. What are some of the good glues out there, and why? Also any suggestions for someone who will be gluing tubulars for the first time?
I heard you need to clean new rims with aceton, but how well will it work with carbon wheels?

Thanks.

DannoXYZ 

THe acetone's only to clean off the mould-release compound from the tread. Or else you're gonna slip & slide around the first couple corners if you're not careful. No need to clean off the base-tape with acetone.

You'll want to lightly sand the rim with 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. I do this even with carbon-rims to create a rough surface for the glue to stick. No heavy-grinding needed, just wipe it across the entire mating-surface about 3-4 times until the gloss is gone.

The glue I like to use is the harder track glues or 3M Fastak Super Weatherstripping adhesive (#08014, 08015, 08031 or 08034). Follow the instructions on the tube. Typically, you spread a thin even layer on both the tyre and rim and let dry slightly unit it's tacky. Then spread one more wet thick layer on the tyre and immediately install.

To actually put the tyre on, I put the valve-stem on first, then flip the wheel over with tyre on opposite side of whee. Put my toes through the spokes on both sides of the valve to hold the wheel down. Then I pull and stretch the tire away from the stem on each side and slowly pull out and up. If you grip just the sidewalls with your fingertips, you don't get all messy with glue. The trick is to stretch the entire tyre, starting at the valve-stem. Then the last bit won't be too hard to get on. Pump up to 5psi and straighten out the tyre on the rim, pump up halfway and let sit for a while to dry (15-20 minutes for Fastak, overnight for track/road glue). Then pump up fully and you're set to go!

steve_wmn

I'm just switching my clincher wheels over to Tufo tubular clinchers and I used the Tufo extenders. They're aluminum and they're designed for a removable valve body. So you remove the valve body from the tire valve stem, screw the extender down into the stem and screw the valve body into the end of the extender. On one of mine the valve body threads didn't seal well against the aluminum extender so I used teflon tape. On the other one I got a good seal without it. Tufo also provides a little plastic wrench thingie that is real handy for screwing and unscrewing the valve body and extender.

2Rodies

I use Vittoria Cx's. For two reasons one they were one of the tires that had a lot of recommendations and two my sponsor/LBS had them in stock and pre stretched. I'm not sure but the other tire that came with high recommendations, the Conti Competition, doesn't have removable valve stems.