feethanddooth

i have a cannondale r400 that i use for benefit tours and my own personal riding. ive never done races and dont think i plan on one. the back rim has a small hair line crack in it and i have never replaced any of the main parts other than the tires and seat on this bike. here is what im looking for...

1. obviously light weight. ive grown more of a love for climbing but know i need to shed some weight from the bike for me to get up some hills easier.

2. i would like to spend no more than $250-$300. price is a big issue for me. if i had the money, i would buy "the best" but i dont so i need whats good but practicle.

3. something sturdy. i hate having to true a wheel every time i hit a couple bumps.


thanks for any insight. im very new to bike language.

Al1943

MAVIC Open Pro rim, DT Competition 2.0-1.8-2.0 double butted spokes, 3-cross pattern (assuming you'll be using a 32 or 36 hole hub).

nitropowered

Are you sure its really a crack? You may be mistaking the crack for the rim joint. The rim joint is usually opposite of the valve hole.

Bobby Lex

Mavic OP rims are pretty well the gold standard. Light enough to climb and go fast. Durable enough to use as an everyday wheel. Reasonably priced. The build is going to determine how long it lasts and how true it stays. But I built an OP wheel 2 years ago that has over 5000 miles on it and it hasn't needed any truing so far (my weight fluctuates between 170 lbs. and 180 lbs.).

A slightly stronger (and slightly heavier) rim is the Mavic CXP 33 is also a good choice.

Bob

KevinF

As others have already mentioned, Mavic Open Pro's are pretty much the standard. Mount them onto some good hubs (i.e., Ultegra / Chorus) and they're pretty close to boutique wheels in terms of weight.

Another option to consider is the Velocity Aerohead Off-Center rim. Rear wheels are a little tricky to tension properly because the drive-side spokes are under much higher tension then the non-drive-side. Off-center rims help alleviate that problem by not mounting the spokes directly under the tire. Spoke tension is much more even throughout the wheel, so the wheel should stay in true longer. Same ballpark weight as the Open Pro's; not sure about the price. If you've historically had to true your rear wheel regularly, I'd recommend going this route. Their website is: https://velocityusa.com/rims/road-rims.php.

feethanddooth

will i have to put the rim together myself?

waterrockets 

You can build the rim yourself if you like, but there is an inexpensive option:
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5320

I'd get this rim retensioned and stress relieved, and adjust the hub (which will be too tight from the factory). The wheel above should last many, many years.

KevinF

Do you plan on re-using your current hub? The hub can easily be the most expensive part of a new wheel; if the hub is still good, I'd re-use it. Take the old wheel down to your LBS and ell them you want to rebuild it with a different rim. Let them order the new rim and spokes. Pick it up in a few days and you should be good to go.

MichaelW

Check that the hairline crack is not the join in the rim. A visible join is quite normal on some rims.
The advice to fit a Mavic OP rim to your current hub is the best and most cost effective option. You may need a new set of spokes as well, your wheelbuilder can advise.
You need to find a bike shop where they can build wheels. Look for a recomendation from a local club. The quality of the build (ie correct and even tension, prestressing spokes) is more important than having the very best components. Good components make the job easier.
Building a wheel yourself is possible but it takes practice and is best practiced on a junk wheel.

feethanddooth

so whats the difference on how many holes are in the wheel? i am looking at all these sites but it is all a different language to me

Bobby Lex

The more holes there are in a rim, the more spokes it will take. The more spokes it has, the stronger it will be.

The number of holes in the rim should match the number of holes in the hub.

Generally speaking, a 32 spoke rear wheel should be quite sturdy. 36 spokes will be bomb-proof.

Bob

Mothra

The variations in weight between various clincher-rims aren't that great anyway, so even if you were to pick the lightest or heaviest rim compared to your current one, the weight-differences won't be noticeable at all.

First, try to figure out what caused the crack in your existing rim. Any dents on the edge of the rim near the crack from hitting things? Does the crack bulge in or out? Replacing just the rim without finding the cause may result in another cracked rim down the line in a year or two. What size tyres and pressure are you using? Rims made for heavy-duty touring with 32-45mm tyres have to be thicker and stronger to deal with the loads generated by the air-pressure and extra surface-area of the tyre pushing the sidewalls apart.

Then gain, buying a new rim at a shop and having them install it on your existing wheels shouldn't cost more than $100-150 anyway (including cost of rim). They just tape the rim next to the old one, and move the spokes over with new nipples. Takes about 1-hour max including the truing time. If they're training a new mechanic and showing him how to build and true wheels for the very first time, it might take 2-hours.

operator

Bottomline. 36 holes.