Perplexing paint chip problem.
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Perplexing paint chip problem.
Paint has been sloooowly chipping on topside of my chainstay. It seems to be localized just to the rear of the protector. Do you think pic 2 is causing pic 1?
Luckily I have some good black matte paint to touch it up, but would like to prevent it before fixing it. Anyone know where can I get a new steel freehub body (not the whole hub obviously)?
Luckily I have some good black matte paint to touch it up, but would like to prevent it before fixing it. Anyone know where can I get a new steel freehub body (not the whole hub obviously)?
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Originally Posted by Mothra
They're unrelated. The dents on the cassette body is caused by a loose lock-ring. This lets individual cogs push on the body with all of your pedaling force. With a tight lock-ring, all the cogs are clamped together and force on a single cog tends to pull the others forward as well and distributes the force across a larger surface area of the splines.
The chips on the chainstay is caused by the chain. Never, ever use the small-ring, small-cogs combination. The minimal spring-tension from the derailleur lets the chain slap around on bumps and causes it to hit the chainstay. I actually avoid the three smallest cogs completely when in the small-ring up front as those ratios can be duplicated with a big-ring/big-cog combination. So on my 8-speed setup, I'll only use the 5 biggest cogs with the small ring and the 5 smallest cogs with the big-ring for about 10 unique gear-ratios.
The chips on the chainstay is caused by the chain. Never, ever use the small-ring, small-cogs combination. The minimal spring-tension from the derailleur lets the chain slap around on bumps and causes it to hit the chainstay. I actually avoid the three smallest cogs completely when in the small-ring up front as those ratios can be duplicated with a big-ring/big-cog combination. So on my 8-speed setup, I'll only use the 5 biggest cogs with the small ring and the 5 smallest cogs with the big-ring for about 10 unique gear-ratios.
I never crosschain so I'm thinking with the 50/34 compact the chain may be slapping even in 50/12. I'm gonna take a few links out of the chain.
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The notches have nothing to do with a loose lockring. Aluminum 8/9spd compatible Shimano freehubs will get notches because aluminum is relatively soft and there isn't enough area to support the pressure. Shimano redesigned the 10spd freehub with taller splines so there is more contact area, which prevents notching. Someone on the forums recently posted pics of MG wheels with a 10spd specific freehub. That would fix your problem, but I have no idea if it can be retrofitted to older hubs.