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I was wondering about how I would go about upgrading components on my bike. I get dismall shifting from my Sora shifters ect. (it's on a trek 1000) What would you guys recommend doing? Is it possible for me to upgrade one component at a time? I'm too the point were I think I'd rather have friction style shifter because I can't achieve gear combinations that should be attainable. I've tried adjusting my derailers and I just am not getting results. Should I try adjusting them again, or?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Andrew

operator

Don't waste your money upgrading. Depending on the component you want to upgrade, you maybe able to do it alone, or it may entail several other purchases.

What do you mean by "achieve" gear combos? It doesn't shift into those gears or it won't stay into them? What?

the beef

Upgrading an entry-level bike is almost never really worth the money. For example, a $200 upgrade (say, new shifters and a rear derailleur) to a $700 bike to improve shifting a little simply doesn't make sense. Sora shifters should work fine - so what you would want to do is tune em up. What exactly do ya mean by 'attain' those gear ratios? Some ratios are considered 'cross-chaining' and aren't really supposed to be used, if that's what you mean. If it simply won't shift into some gears (such as lowest or highest), it could be limit screws. If it's skipping around, try adjusting cable tension.

johnny99

Get a good book on bike maintenance and learn to adjust your shifters properly.

badkarma

If sora is properly adjusted, it'll shift fine.

If you decide you want something better than sora, just buy a new bike, don't upgrade a Trek1000.

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ha! wish I had money to buy a new bike. I'm in college, and had to save a reallly long time just to be able to afford my current bike w/ pedals and shoes. I had them adjusted pretty good, and then I took it into my local bike shop for a 'tune-up' (I assumed that they would make it shift smoother) and when I got it back it was worse. I know about cross chaining, but this is like middle chainring and any of the gears closer to the wheel (excluding the farthest which I'm not sure if it's supposed to work or not) in the back cause clicking noises (the chain hitting the front derailler). The lower limit screw is wayyyy off, I was hill climbing in traffic and I went to down shift. It jumped, I fell. What was the name of the site that had the tutorials for tuning front and rear deraillurs?? I have a zen guide, but it's in my room at home, and I'm in another part of the state.

Also would you guys recomend wheel and tire upgrades or just waiting until I can get a new bike?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Andrew

BTW badkarma are you located on the MCB forum under the same name??? If it might just be random.

badkarma

I'm in the cyclingforums.com as badkarma, but that's it.

If you were to save up to buy new wheels, then you can easily take those wheels with you if you were to buy a new bike, so yes wheels are a worthy upgrade if you can afford them. I'm a proponent of riding quality tires, I've always found that I flat a lot when I try to get away with cheap tires. But if you're not flatting on your current tires, keep rolling with them.

parktool.com has tips for bike maintenance as does sheldonbrown.com

spiderbike

I learned how to do a tune-up myself and do a much better job then any LBS will do...performance has some cheap tools if your looking

dtrain

First, I'd suggest taking the bike back to the place that did the tune-up and explain what's going on. If it hasn't been too long, they should stand behind their work and take another look at the derailleur adjustments.

I've done a few things to my 6-year old Trek 1000, but mostly things that were worn out and really needing attention. A new BB made a big difference, but it was time as the old one was really grinding. A Tiagra FD replaced a badly bent Sora one from a fall. There's some rust forming on my headset, so I may be replacing that sometime soon. I did 'upgrade' from a Sora RD to a 105, but I got it for around $20 on ebay. The shifters aren't worth doing until they are shot...but if you have that 2200 FD, keep your eyes out for a cheap Tiagra one to match your RD. It will hold adjustments better - but triples are never shift perfectly 'clean'. Be sure to check your chain for stretch as well.

Wheels and tires would be a good call if you have the budget. Nashbar has silver Mavic Cosmos right now for under $190 (plus shipping with the web coupon), or something along the lines of a OP/Ultegra set is a solid buy. Like others have said, those can always go on a new bike.

scot

Buy a book and remember you will need to play a bit back and forth to get it right, at least I do on the front deraileur. Rear is a peice of cake.

There are a ton of websites too, but a book will have more info about a ton of other maintenance items that you will need at some point when your internet connection is down.

Mariner Fan

Not all bike mechanics are good. I'd take the bike back to the shop where you had the tune up done and see if they will stand behind their work.

munkyv22

I would suggest a two-pronged aproach.

1. Buy a Madone with Ultegra Gruppo.
2. Learn to adjust it properly.

That way you have TOL equipment AND you know how to keep it working correctly. I know from experience that the components on the Trek 1000 Triple are a pain to keep adjusted properly.

badkarma

To get true TOL, why not just get the Madone SSLx?

munkyv22

There is expensive and then there is SSLX, I think it falls into the "if you are not racing professionally, this is a waste of money" category.

mpd224

When your chain rubs against the front deraillur, can you push your left brifter almost like you are going to switch to your big ring but not shift and see if that helps. I think it's called "trimming"

cat4ever

Maybe that's your problem.

the beef

Not with Sora.

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No my adjustments were functional and it was the best they'd ever acted. I took it too Cookeville Bicycle and they re-adjusted them, and they are now el perfect-oh. They also noticed that as my brakes wear trek missmatched my components, and they are starting to rub the tire as opposed to the rim. Trek is sending me a new matched set so I'm good to go

Thanks for the help. Yes I know how to adjust them myself, no I don't have my tools or a work area to do it in. Living in the dorms has it's downside.

Now let me pose the question. What is the massive difference between the higher end and lower end bikes?? I can understand that they are lighter, etc, etc? I just don't see the problem in upgrading a slightly lower end bike if it get's results? From what you tell me that there will be no difference between the low end components and the high end components?

Again thanks!

Sorry for the silly questions, I've just never understood some things, and I've never ridden with an expierenced biker; always alone

Maybe I can find a group to go ride with down here.

Andrew

munkyv22

OK, here is the real answer. Most roadies consider it sacrelige to put high end components (Ultegra, Dura-Ace, Campy) on a cheap frame (Trek 1000, Specialized Allez). Why? The same reason guys who drive Porsches consider Honda tuners to be idiots. They like their expensive toys and want everyone else to either pay the entry fee or don't play.

If you uppgraded your 1000 to full Ultegra and replaced the headset / wheels, you would have a nice-a$$ bike for like $1300 in upgrades. Add to that what you paid for the bike, probably around $700 and you have a $2000 bike. Guess how much you can get a 2006 Madone for? $2000. That is where the "it's not worth it" reasoning comes from.

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Hmmm, so that begs the question, can I upgrade componets one at a time? Is there compatibility issues between the low end comps and the high end?

Also this might be a ridiculously dumb question, but what is the headset and what would upgrading it do for performance?

Andrew

DMF 

"Don't buy upgrades. Ride up grades."
- Eddie Merckx

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Hahaha!

That's kinda what I was getting at, I was wondering what the big deal was about these 'higher end' bikes when it seems like you guys are saying that upgrading doesn't help performance too terribly.

I just wanted, primarily to get a nice front deraillur. I've always had problems with it, but it seems to be shifting quite nicely after I had it tuned. When I did it, it was functional and quite nice for my first tune, but the gentleman at the store did a much nicer job than me. (quicker too )

Thanks for all the posts, they've been quite enlightening.

Andrew

munkyv22

As for compatability, gruppos are designed to work together. The Shimano FD works best with a Shimano Chainring and chain, which works best on a Shimano casette, which is shifted best by a Shimano RD, all of which is best controlled by Shimano STI levers. Same for Campy. Will they work a la carte? Sure. As well as all together? No.

Your headset is the bearing set that lets you turn your handlebars. The stock one on the 1000 is a little weak and will wear out and allow too much flex.

If you upgrade your FD, I would also upgrade your crank / BB too. I am dissappointed with the BB on the 1000. It seems very flexy to me.

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Alright ... what's a BB?

Ha ... sorry, I've tried to look up a bicycling glossary, but the ones I tried had dead links or just didn't work.

Andrew

dtrain

BB = Bottom Bracket