jim p

I would like some suggestions on starting points for the drop bar position as far as how it should be rotated in the stem. I pretty much like the top of the bar to be horizontal to having the bar rotated so that the front of the bar is rotated slightly down. My problem is that with the bar in this position I have trouble breaking from the drops. I have to move my hands up in the curve of the drop to reach the brakes.

Also when braking from the hoods I don't have as much leverage as when braking from the drops. Is this pretty much the same case for everyone?

Should I just setup the bars and brakes for comfort and then just learn how to move my hands to get the the brakes when needed?

I have taken the tape off the bar and I am riding and moving things around during the ride hoping to find the best solution. But it may be that I just need to set things up like most riders do and make the necessary adjustments myself. The problem is that I don't even know how most have their bars and brakes set.

I am going to go ride now and maybe when I get back someone will have answered my question and eased my mind.

zimbo

I personally like to have the top of the bar horizontal, as shown below. When I'm in the drops, I keep my hands on the curve of the drop. And yes, you'll have more leverage when braking from the drops.



If it's not comfortable to keep your hands near the brakes when riding it is likely indicative of a fitment issue.

--Steve

jim p

Thanks for the picture, and for the help. I am pretty much decided on how to set up my bar and brakes and it is pretty much as your picture shows. My bars or of the old type which has a smooth u bend alway the down to the drops. I think that the bend in your bar is much more useful than mine.

Thanks again.

Reynolds 

The standard position for brake levers is generally considered to be with the tip at same level than the bar low section, but some riders like them slightly upper. Some brifters have options to position them nearer the bar, for people with smaller hands.
While you do have more leverage when braking from the drops, the grip from the hoods would suffice for any normal braking situation short of a real panic stop.

nocondorfx

play around with it and see what seems the most comfortable

NOS88

+1 This is a very good starting position. It has the advanatage of keeping your wrists in a relatively neutral (straight) position, which can help reduce the possibility of injury.

a77impala

My LeMond came with the brake levers set on the bars so I couldn't reach them from the drops or shift either. I moved then only 1/2 inch forward and what a difference, I can now shift and brake from the drops easily. I can still brake from the hoods also.
You might try the same if you can't reach brakes from the drops.

AnthonyG

Well If your having trouble braking from the drops then ergo bars will only make things harder. Traditional curve bars are much easier to brake in the drops with. The reach is shorter.

Maybe the levers are up too high on the handlebars. Try moving them down a little which is what I did and it works well for me. Also I don't get much braking strength from the hoods so basicaly I always brake from the drops. Now actualy I only brake with the front anyway. I leave the other hand on the hoods and quickly position the braking hand into the curve of the drops and brake.

Here's my setup,



Regards, Anthony

operator

Yes, Hillbrick frame!

AnthonyG

Yes Paul Hillbrick is a custom frame builder in Sydney, Australia and he makes very nice frames too. Mines made from Columbus Zona tubing and lugged. Despite the name it gets up hills pretty quickly

Regards, Anthony

zimbo

In a word, Yikes.

--Steve

AnthonyG

Whats there to go yikes about?

The front wheel does all the braking anyway. You only need a rear brake for emergency braking if the front fails or you break a spoke and have a buckled wheel to contend with.

Regards, Anthony

zimbo

It sounds like you're saying that whenever you want to brake you're having to move your hand from the tops to the drops. Did I misunderstand?

--Steve

AnthonyG

If I'm on the hoods and I want to brake hard I move ONE hand and hook my thumb behind the curve of the bar. I spend a fair amount of time in the drops anyway. If I'm in a bunch then I can apply the force required from the hoods as you shouldn't brake hard in a bunch anyway.

Regards, Anthony

miked528

I just my drops like this and I seem to like the ride so far. Cool!!

jim p

Thanks for all the help. For now I am going to set up the bar with the top flat and the brakes up high on the bar. This seems to be the most comfortable position. I will ride like this until I can determine what I need to do next. I have even tilted the top of the brakes about 5 degrees to the inside which seems to keep my wrist in a more relaxed position. It appears that only a centimeter of movement of the brakes can make a big difference so it is going to take a while to decide exactly what the placement should be. It looks like that I will be leaving the bar tape off for a while during all this testing.

ollo_ollo

Depends on the bike geometry & the particular stem/bar/lever combination: The orange & the yellow bike have a more traditional setup with bar ends parallel to the top tube, the other bikes are setup closer to having the tops horizontal as you prefer. I always move the levers around to find the most comfortable riding position after I get the bars set.
(edit)Sometimes I wrap some old tape scraps just around the hoods until I get everything set(edit). Don