Holy cow, aerodynamics makes a huge difference.
#1
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Holy cow, aerodynamics makes a huge difference.
I ripped this off of someone else who ripped it off of someone else who translated this month's issue of Tour magazine.
They put Uwe Peschel on a normal bike:
Needed Watts for Speed = 45 km/h :
Stevens San Remo bike with normal handlebar 465 Watts needed to go 45 km/h
Same bike Hands down the drops: 406 watts needed
Same bikeEaston Aeroforce bar: 369 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards): 360 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards) and
carbon Tri spoke wheels front and rear: 345 Watt
Cervelo + Tri spoke front 328 Watts
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel : 320
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet: 317
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit: 307
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit +
saddle 3 cm further back: 293 Watts
From 465 to 293 watts... That's a lotta savings.
They put Uwe Peschel on a normal bike:
Needed Watts for Speed = 45 km/h :
Stevens San Remo bike with normal handlebar 465 Watts needed to go 45 km/h
Same bike Hands down the drops: 406 watts needed
Same bikeEaston Aeroforce bar: 369 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards): 360 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards) and
carbon Tri spoke wheels front and rear: 345 Watt
Cervelo + Tri spoke front 328 Watts
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel : 320
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet: 317
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit: 307
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit +
saddle 3 cm further back: 293 Watts
From 465 to 293 watts... That's a lotta savings.
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I'm most interested in why moving the saddle back 3cm in the last setup saved an additional 14 watts. It's like going from a 78 degree STA back to a more standard 75 STA. I wonder if they were able to do that without raising the bars. That would close his hip angle but flatten his back some more. I guess that position is more aero but can he stay there for a while and does it cost him power to be in that position. It's all a compromise and only testing will determine which setup is faster on the road.
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Originally Posted by BikeWNC
I'm most interested in why moving the saddle back 3cm in the last setup saved an additional 14 watts. It's like going from a 78 degree STA back to a more standard 75 STA. I wonder if they were able to do that without raising the bars. That would close his hip angle but flatten his back some more. I guess that position is more aero but can he stay there for a while and does it cost him power to be in that position. It's all a compromise and only testing will determine which setup is faster on the road.
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Originally Posted by slvoid
Needed Watts for Speed = 45 km/h :
Stevens San Remo bike with normal handlebar 465 Watts needed to go 45 km/h
Same bike Hands down the drops: 406 watts needed
Same bikeEaston Aeroforce bar: 369 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards): 360 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards) and
carbon Tri spoke wheels front and rear: 345 Watt
Cervelo + Tri spoke front 328 Watts
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel : 320
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet: 317
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit: 307
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit +
saddle 3 cm further back: 293 Watts
Stevens San Remo bike with normal handlebar 465 Watts needed to go 45 km/h
Same bike Hands down the drops: 406 watts needed
Same bikeEaston Aeroforce bar: 369 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards): 360 Watts
Same bike Triathlon position (5.5 cm lower bar, saddle forwards) and
carbon Tri spoke wheels front and rear: 345 Watt
Cervelo + Tri spoke front 328 Watts
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel : 320
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet: 317
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit: 307
Cervelo + Tri spoke front + disk rear wheel +Giro helmet + speed suit +
saddle 3 cm further back: 293 Watts
#11
Aluminium Crusader :-)
just in case anyone hasn't seenthe Kreuzotter calculator:
https://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
Check out the difference that riding on the drops makes compared to riding on the hoods
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
I've plugged in some Hour Record numbers (Indurian's stats, for eg), and the output & speed come out similar to other sources.
https://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
Check out the difference that riding on the drops makes compared to riding on the hoods
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
I've plugged in some Hour Record numbers (Indurian's stats, for eg), and the output & speed come out similar to other sources.
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The biggest key to reducing the wattage is putting one's body in an aerodynamic position. A TT bike makes that easier to do than modifying a road bike but even the latter can be improved upon by switching out the stem, using aero bars, etc.
All of the big improvements in that list are due to lowering/flattening the back and stretching/thinning out the torso. The wheels, skin suit, and helmet only account for 20 watts or so (still significant, of course).
--Steve
All of the big improvements in that list are due to lowering/flattening the back and stretching/thinning out the torso. The wheels, skin suit, and helmet only account for 20 watts or so (still significant, of course).
--Steve
#13
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie
just in case anyone hasn't seenthe Kreuzotter calculator:
https://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
Check out the difference that riding on the drops makes compared to riding on the hoods
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
I've plugged in some Hour Record numbers (Indurian's stats, for eg), and the output & speed come out similar to other sources.
https://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
Check out the difference that riding on the drops makes compared to riding on the hoods
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
I've plugged in some Hour Record numbers (Indurian's stats, for eg), and the output & speed come out similar to other sources.
no doubt... that why we're always telling people to flip the stem over so theyre not sitting so upright on their $5000 road bikes..
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"You should already be aware that riding with people who steer with their elbows, stick food to the top tube of their frames and ride around in dick togs is not a great idea." -- Classic1
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Originally Posted by Smoothie104
no doubt... that why we're always telling people to flip the stem over so theyre not sitting so upright on their $5000 road bikes..
And not only that, people have to actually stretch (off the bike) and ride in the drops to get used to it....not just drop down to 'em on a big downhill and "go for it".
Having the handlebars adjusted correctly helps too....many people, and I used to be one of them, will rotate their handlebars up to flatten out the tops of the bars/hoods to make it more comfortable riding in the hoods. While this was great, the reach was a bit too far forward to comfortably ride in the drops for any length of time (in the past, I would do most of a ride in the drops, save for climbing). Have to make sure that the position is efficient and comfortable. To do it properly, move the levers up and re-wrap the handlebars.
Last edited by GuitarWizard; 01-17-07 at 06:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie
...
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
...
And see how little effect bike weight has on speed, even on hills
...
#16
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Originally Posted by Smoothie104
no doubt... that why we're always telling people to flip the stem over so theyre not sitting so upright on their $5000 road bikes..
Guys, it really is OK just to ride for fun. Try leaving all your performance measuring devices at home once in a while and just ride!
*Except of course guys who wouldn't listen to me when I said they needed a triple and are caught pushing their $5000 bike up hills.
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Good comments by everybody. I read someplace that 80% of power expenditure riding a road bike at 20mph is due to wind resistance. I am a tallish guy that is going to be a bit more aero for '07. Yes it will take strengthening and a bit more flexiblity. I am used to riding with my bars only 1-2 inches below my saddle. Now building a new bike, the bars will be about 3 inches below and a bit closer in. I have ridden quite a bit with TT riders and guys who ride with big bar drop and flattish back. They have a big advantage and therefore my goal is to ride a bit more aero. As to pain in lower back and neck due to lower bars....my view is it is based upon conditioning and flexibility. Both can be increased. An older rider like myself will not likely be as comfortable with a 6" drop to the bars as a young racer but I would like to strike a happy medium at least to ride a bit faster.
George
George
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Originally Posted by zimbo
The biggest key to reducing the wattage is putting one's body in an aerodynamic position.
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Originally Posted by BikeWise1
What good is an aero position if you can't stay in it for the duration of your ride? I have done numerous fits on guys that have "image issues" regarding the orientation of their stems because of crap like that! Arm length and ride length are what determine stem height and angle, not some arbitrary fashion. The proof is having customers riding farther and more pain-free than they ever thought possible. Racers (and those who wish to appear as though they are racers) need every bit of power they can scrounge. That's fine. But bikes are already the most efficient transportation device yet invented. Even if you are sitting upright and going slow. On whatever bike you choose to ride.*
Guys, it really is OK just to ride for fun. Try leaving all your performance measuring devices at home once in a while and just ride!
*Except of course guys who wouldn't listen to me when I said they needed a triple and are caught pushing their $5000 bike up hills.
Guys, it really is OK just to ride for fun. Try leaving all your performance measuring devices at home once in a while and just ride!
*Except of course guys who wouldn't listen to me when I said they needed a triple and are caught pushing their $5000 bike up hills.
George
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Nice post. Very informative and useful data.
Great to have some facts on BF once in a while.
Great to have some facts on BF once in a while.
#21
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From that list, you save 59 watts just going to the drops, but only 14 watts for aero wheels.
Riding in the drops costs less.
At pro crits you will see standard and aero bikes, standard and aero wheels, but universally the guys pulling at the front never come out of the drops.
Riding in the drops costs less.
At pro crits you will see standard and aero bikes, standard and aero wheels, but universally the guys pulling at the front never come out of the drops.
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Originally Posted by biker7
Depends what your objective is. I am no racer but a decently fast old guy. I like to compete with my younger riding friends...no big deal. It is horses for courses. One will not be able to ride an aggressive bike as far comfortably as more of a cruiser set up. All what you want and both are good.
George
George
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Bear in mind that this is at 45 kph, and that wind drag increases geometrically with speed. The slower I am, the less significant those additional expenses are...
If you can haul along at 45 kilometers in a TT, then the wheels/helmet/etc. make a huge difference. I wonder how much of a difference it would be for a slower pace.
Not denying the validity of the numbers, but it seems like it goes to show the difference between priorities and value for money for the pros versus a schmoe like me.
If you can haul along at 45 kilometers in a TT, then the wheels/helmet/etc. make a huge difference. I wonder how much of a difference it would be for a slower pace.
Not denying the validity of the numbers, but it seems like it goes to show the difference between priorities and value for money for the pros versus a schmoe like me.
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28mph, -8 watts to go from 'standard' wheels (assumed) to full disc
so, 20mph, from 'standard' wheelset to rims with 10mm taller profile and "aero" spokes means savings of...... half a joule?
so, 20mph, from 'standard' wheelset to rims with 10mm taller profile and "aero" spokes means savings of...... half a joule?
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Originally Posted by Smoothie104
no doubt... that why we're always telling people to flip the stem over so theyre not sitting so upright on their $5000 road bikes..
if i flip it down, i can get more aero on the hoods, but i can't stay in the drop as long. if i flip it up, i'm not as aero on the hoods, but i can stay in the drops longer for a better overall ride...
i've been meaning to flip it down and take 2 tylenol before i go out, and see the results, but it's been too cold lately to try it out...