cat4ever

I know less than nothing about these wheels...

https://edinabike.com/page.cfm?PageID...ils&sku=WE8031

I can get Open Pros for the same price. Which would you go with and why?

OR

What other options are out there with an SL build for roughly the same price (if any)?

NomadVW 

Haven't heard of the Quality Wheelhouse wheels, but I can say I'm content to have my SL on an open pro rim, and if you can get it for $920ish, it's a good price.

cslone

Bryan, if you can get it for the same price, I personally would go with the Mavics. They have been tested and proven to hold up, whereas you would be the guinea pig on the Quality Wheelhouse wheels.

damocles1

It's just a wheel built by QBP. They have in house builders. Everything is done by hand and probably as well, or better than your LBS. That wheel is built on a DT Swiss hoop, which is about the same as an Open Pro.

waterrockets 

The rim on that build looks like a DT Swiss 1.1, which is a fine rim. I think it's comparable to the Open Pro, so I wouldn't sweat it either way.

I've wondered about Quality Wheelhouse wheels. To be safe, when you get it, stress relieve it yourself. Push hard on the outside spoke bends to make sure no stresses remain (the outside spokes force the elbow to bend further, but you have to cold-set it so the elbow doesn't live its life fighting the bend). Check drive-side spoke tension to ensure it's around the 110kgf range. Then check that each side's spokes pluck the same note. If they don't, tension it so they do, then stress relieve again.

Hopfully all you have to do is push near the elbows and stress relieve -- the tensioning should be handled by the builder. If you ensure all of this is in order, then this wheel will probably outlive its braking surface

cat4ever

Alright, thanks everyone!

damocles1

Quality wheels come pre-stressed. of course there will be a bit of pinging when you ride it the first time, but they won't lose tension or come out of true. I've ridden QBP built wheels for a long time. My rear 'cross training wheel is a QBP wheel and I've never touched it.

Building wheels are what the guys at Quality Wheelhouse do. They have no other job at QBP. They build wheels, by hand, all day, everyday. They have 12 people who build the house wheels and 6 custom builders. Dead cost on that wheel is $790 and it weighs 1080 grams (measured). The DT wheel will last just as long as a Mavic OP...

waterrockets 

It sounds like they do a nice job. Good to hear.

One note: there should not be any pinging on first ride. The spokes should develop no wind-up during the build. If they ping, then that means that the spokes are under a twisting torque, and when it relieves with a ping, the tension of the spoke changes. It's not a big tension change, but it still shouldn't be happening.

When tightening a spoke, it's important to track how much it winds up before the threads break loose, then back off that much after the adjustment is complete. Another trick is to sharpie-dot all your spokes on the same side before tensioning, and after each adjustment, make sure the dot goes back to the right rotational position.

garysol1 

I just ordered mine today. It is the cheapest that I have found for a built SL. I am sure now that I have placed my order I will find it cheaper in about 5 minutes though....

brianappleby

I own that wheel and although the parts are good quality, I've had bad experiences with the build. First, individual non-drive spokes would come loose, then the entire non-drive side lost enough tension to cause my rear derailluer to rub the spokes. I've since added tension and it seems to be fixed, but that was only 1 week ago. This would have been fairly expensive had I paid a LBS to do it.

I'm a little heavy, 185 lbs.

garysol1 

Love HOW these posts ALWAYS happen after I order...LoL

DrPete 

I have a Quality Wheelhouse-built PT SL/RR 1.1 setup as well. I had to have it rebuilt after a crash...

Any wheel that can't withstand a 30mph sideways skid and getting hit by another rider is crap, and Quality Wheelhouse should go out of business.

garysol1 

LoL.....I am assuming you were happy with yours until the destruction?

DrPete 

Yeah, I was, and continue to be happy with the rebuilt version. I guess I've just spent too much time over in the "Campy sucks" thread.

brianappleby

i'm not saying that I regret my purchase, or that yours will be the same. Just keep an eye on spoke tension and maybe carry a spoke wrench for the first few hundered miles... just in case..

garysol1 

Good tip and I do appreciate the heads up.

Grasschopper

I read the first couple of posts and just said fk it and haven't been reading that one...total waste of time.

obstacle

You can never go wrong with Open Pros...ever!

garysol1 

I figure for the price of the DT build from Edina I can always get the wheel rebuilt with a Open Pro if needed and still be ahead of the game financially or maybe break even at worst. I have not heard much bad about the DT 1.1's though so I don't think it will be necessary unless I pull a Dr Pete on mine....

rkymthiker

I know several people that have that same Wheelhouse wheel and they are happy with the build. I have the PT SL / DT 1.1 but had it handbuilt at locally, since they gave me a good price.

garysol1 

I received and did most of the install on my PT SL today. Setting up the CPU is a bit of a *****. I am guessing they have updated the CPU but not the book. The book shows 4 setup modes and my CPU has 5 plus many of the screens on my cpu just do not correspond with what the book shows. One other question I have is this. The package came with what I guess is a tool of some sort. It looks like a plastic brass knuckle almost. Maybe a puller of some sort**********

garysol1 

Install is complete and I am very impressed. The kit was first class even though the manual leaves a bit to be desired. You have to read in between the lines in a few places during install and setup. The wheel appears to be of very nice quality with the DT rim and spokes. Test ride on the wheel was very uneventful. No noises or anything out of the ordinary. Edina bike shipped the same day I ordered and the price was indeed the lowest I have yet found.

Went out for a ride today and everything worked great except.....the speed was way off. It worked fine to 9.9mph then it went back to 0 then 1 then 2...etc.....until I got to 20.0 mph.At 20.0 it read c0.0. Turns out the LED display was missing 3 lines. The c that I saw at 20mph was the lower part of the 2 and the 1 was non-existent. I called Saris and I have a new CPU on the way. There CS has been very fast and very helpful.

WCroadie

I am thinking of getting a Powertap SL wheel built up as well, thanks for the info

NattyTerp

A few questions...

1) Can you get the Powertap built into any wheel (like the Easton Orion II)? If not, is there a list of compatible wheels?

2) If I get the deal from edina as listed above, would I need to get the same wheel for the front or can you use mismatching wheels? Again, I would prefer to get the Orion II.

3) Any problems using the Powertap in the rain?

4) If I do get a new rear wheel, is it a good idea to get a new cassette as well so I can switch between my new and old wheels if needed?

Thanks

waterrockets 

1) Can you get the Powertap built into any wheel (like the Easton Orion II)?

You can use any rim with a compatible spoke pattern. Talk to a wheel builder about a specific rim, but there are some limitations with symmetry and spoke count.

2) If I get the deal from edina as listed above, would I need to get the same wheel for the front or can you use mismatching wheels? Again, I would prefer to get the Orion II.

you can use any front, but don't tell the OCP brigade

3) Any problems using the Powertap in the rain?

Short story: "no," but I'd avoid it. How valuable are data from a rain-slicked ride?

4) If I do get a new rear wheel, is it a good idea to get a new cassette as well so I can switch between my new and old wheels if needed?

saves you some time, but not necessary