ceramic bearings
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ceramic bearings
Anyone have any real world experience with ceramic bearings? Are they as good as advertised, or is it just hype. I ride on a pair of fsa rd 600 wheels, which i love, and the outlay to upgrade to ceramics is not huge, just wondering if anyone has actually used them? Thanks in advance.
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Have seen them on scambay for around $250 for a kit for the FSA wheels. Supposed to be the next thing that will make you faster. NO experince with them however.
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Yes, ceramic bearings can be way better than metal ones. Will it make a damn bit of difference to your riding? No. Bearings are about .000000001% of the resistance you're fighting on your bike.
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You won't notice a difference unless you're going 80000 rpm at 1200 degrees.
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Presuming you ride with your wallet, you'll be much faster on the climbs.
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Velonews did a very good test on ceramic bearings on BB and found that in most cases there was a noticeable difference. I have an FSA MegaExo BB and the cost to change over is around 200 bucks. This would give the BB about the same smoothness as a Campy square taper Record BB. What the test showed was that the new BB systems don't spin as freely as the old style systems, unless you add expensive ceramic BB. I figured for the price of the ceramic upgrade I could sell my FSA crank/BB system and buy a set of square taper Campy carbon cranks and BB. FWIW the new Campy BB was very close to the FSA/Shimano system with ceramic bearings.
The guru at my LBS says the best hubs he's seen have been Shimano DA and Campy Chorus and Record. In his experience these hubs spin as freely as the ceramic bearing hubs. You do give up some weight savings with these hubs, so if you are concerned about the weight you might consider going the ceramic bearing rout.
The guru at my LBS says the best hubs he's seen have been Shimano DA and Campy Chorus and Record. In his experience these hubs spin as freely as the ceramic bearing hubs. You do give up some weight savings with these hubs, so if you are concerned about the weight you might consider going the ceramic bearing rout.
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
Velonews did a very good test on ceramic bearings on BB and found that in most cases there was a noticeable difference. I have an FSA MegaExo BB and the cost to change over is around 200 bucks. This would give the BB about the same smoothness as a Campy square taper Record BB. What the test showed was that the new BB systems don't spin as freely as the old style systems, unless you add expensive ceramic BB. I figured for the price of the ceramic upgrade I could sell my FSA crank/BB system and buy a set of square taper Campy carbon cranks and BB. FWIW the new Campy BB was very close to the FSA/Shimano system with ceramic bearings.
The guru at my LBS says the best hubs he's seen have been Shimano DA and Campy Chorus and Record. In his experience these hubs spin as freely as the ceramic bearing hubs. You do give up some weight savings with these hubs, so if you are concerned about the weight you might consider going the ceramic bearing rout.
The guru at my LBS says the best hubs he's seen have been Shimano DA and Campy Chorus and Record. In his experience these hubs spin as freely as the ceramic bearing hubs. You do give up some weight savings with these hubs, so if you are concerned about the weight you might consider going the ceramic bearing rout.
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
But wasn't it like 1 or 2 watts in the Velon News testing?
They also felt that at higher loads they felt that the loss would have been greater. I can tell you that there is a huge difference in how freely my Campy square tape BB spun compared to my FSA MegaExo spins. I look at it this way, it's easy to say that X=2w and that is not significant. But if you apply that to everything on your bike then you could be losing 5-10w. I really keep on top of my bikes maintainence, I'm quite anal about how it's adjusted, how clean it is, what condition the chain, and cassette are in etc etc. As for the value of ceramic bearing that's a question that only the buyer can answer. If a 2w gain is worth 200 bucks to you then the question is answered. I'm not one to judge how others spend their money. I have teammates who train on Reynolds DV clinchers and Zipp 404 clinchers. Do they need them? Would Open Pro's laced to 105 hubs do the job? Of course they would, but these guys are well off and the financial impact for them is probably less than the Open Pros are for most others.
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
Yeah the wattage wasn't significant but the amount of time the cranks spun was.
They also felt that at higher loads they felt that the loss would have been greater. I can tell you that there is a huge difference in how freely my Campy square tape BB spun compared to my FSA MegaExo spins. I look at it this way, it's easy to say that X=2w and that is not significant. But if you apply that to everything on your bike then you could be losing 5-10w. I really keep on top of my bikes maintainence, I'm quite anal about how it's adjusted, how clean it is, what condition the chain, and cassette are in etc etc. As for the value of ceramic bearing that's a question that only the buyer can answer. If a 2w gain is worth 200 bucks to you then the question is answered. I'm not one to judge how others spend their money. I have teammates who train on Reynolds DV clinchers and Zipp 404 clinchers. Do they need them? Would Open Pro's laced to 105 hubs do the job? Of course they would, but these guys are well off and the financial impact for them is probably less than the Open Pros are for most others.
They also felt that at higher loads they felt that the loss would have been greater. I can tell you that there is a huge difference in how freely my Campy square tape BB spun compared to my FSA MegaExo spins. I look at it this way, it's easy to say that X=2w and that is not significant. But if you apply that to everything on your bike then you could be losing 5-10w. I really keep on top of my bikes maintainence, I'm quite anal about how it's adjusted, how clean it is, what condition the chain, and cassette are in etc etc. As for the value of ceramic bearing that's a question that only the buyer can answer. If a 2w gain is worth 200 bucks to you then the question is answered. I'm not one to judge how others spend their money. I have teammates who train on Reynolds DV clinchers and Zipp 404 clinchers. Do they need them? Would Open Pro's laced to 105 hubs do the job? Of course they would, but these guys are well off and the financial impact for them is probably less than the Open Pros are for most others.
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
Velonews did a very good test on ceramic bearings on BB and found that in most cases there was a noticeable difference. I have an FSA MegaExo BB and the cost to change over is around 200 bucks. This would give the BB about the same smoothness as a Campy square taper Record BB. What the test showed was that the new BB systems don't spin as freely as the old style systems, unless you add expensive ceramic BB. I figured for the price of the ceramic upgrade I could sell my FSA crank/BB system and buy a set of square taper Campy carbon cranks and BB. FWIW the new Campy BB was very close to the FSA/Shimano system with ceramic bearings.....
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
the irony to me in the article is the fact that you've got to put ceramic bearings in an external bearing BB to make the "better, improved bb" spin as freely as an ancient square taper design.
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
the irony to me in the article is the fact that you've got to put ceramic bearings in an external bearing BB to make the "better, improved bb" spin as freely as an ancient square taper design.
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The new FSA K-Force Light crankset comes with ceramic bearings. I was planning on getting that one anyway so now I'll just go with the 2007 model.
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i just saw in a magazine that the K-Force Light rings are 38/52, not 39/53
-smoke
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Your bearing drag will increase as you put them farther from the axis (same force, longer moment arm). That's what you pay when you want stiffer crank. Larger bearings also wear better even if they aren't as good in the short term. Also, if you properly preload a bearing so that it lasts longer and has less drag under load it will NOT spin as long under no load. I'm not a defender of ceramic bearings but I want to point out that there are other issues to bear in mind.
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in my experience:
best sealed BB and hubs = phil wood
best non-sealed hubs = dura ace track hubs (smoothest thing I've ever felt)
best sealed BB and hubs = phil wood
best non-sealed hubs = dura ace track hubs (smoothest thing I've ever felt)
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Originally Posted by smoke
i just saw in a magazine that the K-Force Light rings are 38/52, not 39/53
-smoke
-smoke
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
Yeah the best spinning BB in the test was a 11 year old Veloce BB. Go figure.
Just spinning a bearing and seeing how long it takes to slow down is just a function of the bearing seal drag or the viscosity of the bearing grease. If you removed the seals, and squirted in light oil, that bearing would win. Given that they acknowledged the flaw of the test, why didn't they just do it right?
I switched to a ceramic BB (ISIS), and did not really notice a difference, but what remains to be seen is if these bearings wear any better than steel bearings.
My advice: wait.
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According to my calculations, if you crank it up to 400 watts, the ceramic bearings will improve your 40K TT time by approximately 24.375 seconds.
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wow did you just say montgomery wards!!! hahahaha oh wow.... who remembers montgomery wards!!!
oh wait.. boo.. i remember montgomery wards... that means im old...
gosh i remember purchasing a home entertainment like tvstand / cabinet.. and i had to carry it up 3 flights of narrow stairs...
ok sorry back to the discussion...
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These bearings cannot be seen, so many pro teams are going through a lot of trouble. I would guess it's for a good reason.
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I have them in my White Industries hubs and they spin forever. They are way smoother than any other wheels in the quiver.
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Once again we have the usual criticism from people who've never used the item in question. Not as many as I expected though - I've usually got to wade through pages of insults and sweeping statements here on Bike Forums!
I put a Ceramicspeed upgrade kit on my Ksyrium ES after about a thousand miles and also ceramic bearings on my rear derailleur jockey wheels. I upgraded these from Record which feel sticky in comparison. I've done about another thousand miles since upgrading.
The ES's are now way smoother than my Camapagnolo Neutrons (Record class hubs) and they weren't before. The drivetrain feels like it's gone from dry to oiled.
I noticed the improvement before I'd even reached the end of my street.
Better than standard? Yes. Worth the money? Only you can decide.
I put a Ceramicspeed upgrade kit on my Ksyrium ES after about a thousand miles and also ceramic bearings on my rear derailleur jockey wheels. I upgraded these from Record which feel sticky in comparison. I've done about another thousand miles since upgrading.
The ES's are now way smoother than my Camapagnolo Neutrons (Record class hubs) and they weren't before. The drivetrain feels like it's gone from dry to oiled.
I noticed the improvement before I'd even reached the end of my street.
Better than standard? Yes. Worth the money? Only you can decide.