Chorus Shifter Question
 

Hi, I'm a newbie to indexed shifting and have a couple of questions. I bought a used bike (2005) with Chorus shifters and gears. When shifting into easier gears, the shift lever has about 1 inch of play before actually meeting resistance and beginning to shift. The left shifter is like this also, so is it normal ??

Also, compared to Dura-Ace, which is easier to shift into a higher gear while on the drops, especially during a sprint ?? Campy has the button on the side, while DA uses the brake lever. For example, starting a sprint in a 15t and dropping to 14 or 13 while out of the saddle.

I was reading another thread about "dumping gears" - the ability to drop 3 or 4 gears at a time. I think the Chorus on this bike drop 3, but other people seemed to have varying results with different models of Campy. Is it a function of how it was adjusted ?? TIA

Uh, your shifters need some serious tuning. Sounds like the cable tension is WAY off. If that's not it, the shifter is broken. I'd have a shop check it out if you're not sure.

I too would agree that based off of what Homebrew posted it sounds like the cable tensions are way off. It wouldn't be a bad idea though to take your bike to a mechanic that has experience with campy to go over your bike ti make sure there isn't more going on then slack in the cables.

i have same year centaur - lower line - and yesterday i verified that it could drop (upshift) at LEAST 8 gears.

freeplay before downshifting (shorter gear ratio)? yeah, there should be *some

thumb lever? i agree - prefer shimano's dual levers

Correction. I've only ridden the bike once. I just tried it on the bike stand and it dumped 6 gears just now.

More importantly, I've always done my own work on bikes, and would like to do the same on my new bike. The cable itself is tight, no slack when in the 12. In looking at the lever, the "play" is as it engages to push the index tab. OK, so I don't know the correct terms but I pulled up the hood and see that the play is from it not having hit the ratchet mechanism yet. Having not used new Campy levers I don't have anything to compare to. Thanks for the feedback.

how about you take out the cables, reset the barell adjusters on the down tube and the rear deraileur, push the thumb shifter down all the way, and re-cable. just a note, I find that campy uses less cable tension than shimano.

that SHOULD fix it.

Believe you mean disconnect the cables at their respective derailleurs. OP lets start with the rear derailleur. Thumb down all the way to the smallest cog. Tighten the barrel adjuster on the downtube as mentioned, and pull the cable taut in back and then tighten the allen pinch bolt. That will get you in the ballgame. If you have 1 inch of play in your cable, you will not be able to reach your largest cogs in back....will run out of ergolever clicks first. Go to Campy's website and download their PDF's for adjustment if you really want to dial it in. Sweet spot as mentioned on their site is adjusting for the fourth cog up...getting the chain on the centerline in the third clip. Owning a bike stand is a great asset to adjusting a bike properly. A well adjusted Campy bike is an absolute pleasure.
George

Hmmm .... everything seems fine cable-wise. I'm getting all the gears. It just seems as though there's too much play in the shifter before it even engages the cable. That the shift lever has unnecessary travel before it hits the ratchet mechanism. Maybe I need to find a new bike to compare against. It rode & shifted fine, so it may be that "they all do that".
Again ... thanks for all the replies !!

I don't think there was any big change in this over the years, but my '07 Chorus levers start pulling cable almost immediately. If there's as much play as you're describing, there may be some problem with the innards of the lever.

just checked—I see what the brewster is talking about and it's normal. there is a little play there, about an inch of movement on the tip of the lever.

Really? I mean, mine has some travel before it clicks, but nothing that I would call "play."

E-mail me your bike and I'll try it out. :D

I checked my girl's shimano shifters and those have them as well.

my guess is that "give" reassures the fingers that it IS the shift lever that they are touching. also might be easier to exert effort from that angle as opposed to from the starting point. kinda like brake levers are easier closer to the drops than from the resting position.

both centaur and record... but the doc is correct—I shouldn't call it play, it does have minor tension that springs it back.

Do you have nice defined clicks as you shift? If not, it may be that your Chorus shifters need a rebuild.

"Play" might not be the right word. How about "Non-functional spring loaded travel" !!
And like the other posters, I measured an inch down at the very tip, and perhaps it is just to give it some movement to get in the right position.

Any comments about shifting during sprinting ... ie conveniece while hammering on the drops... Campy vs Dura Ace ??

sure... campy is far superior to shimano.

ok ok seriously it took a while to get used to thumb shifting while sprinting in the drops—especially since I was used to sprinting on a track bike. but you get used to it and should be able to do it one sweeping motion.

the problem I have right now is getting carried away. typically when attacking I upshift (to higher gears) 3 cogs while maintaining my cadence... but sometimes I get sOoOo excited that I overdo it and shift 2-3 cogs too much. still in the end of the day I'm happy I have the option to overshift.

2005 Record levers here and I get the same play. About an inch of movement before the lever engages. I think it's normal.

New cables, housing and shifter rebuilt time.

Its amazing how much new cables can improve shifting performance.