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Clearcoat Ate My Testors Paint

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Clearcoat Ate My Testors Paint

Old 03-08-07, 06:36 PM
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Clearcoat Ate My Testors Paint

OK - instead of using the Mercian "stove" paint that requires significant heating to dry, I opted for Testors for some small touch-ups. It's an enamel. I let it dry 24 hours and it was dry to the touch. Applied some clearcoat I got from auto store - it' sold in a tocuh-up kit with filler, primer, and clearcoat plus some fine grip paper and polishing compound. I applied the clearcoat and it promptly removed the Testors. Dissolved it cxompletly.

Why???

Does Testors sell a clearcoat for their enamels???
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Old 03-08-07, 06:41 PM
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testors sells laqcuer, and enamel clearcoats.




i don't know how good, or durable they are. model master is better than the cheap stuff, of course

there's a million different degrees of gloss for the model master stuff however.
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Old 03-08-07, 06:42 PM
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They do, it is in the model car section of walmart or any other craft store, with the other testors paints. I have never used it on metal before though, you should be ok.
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Old 03-08-07, 06:42 PM
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The thinners in the clearcoat dissolved the Testors because Testors is an enamel that does not use a chemically catalyzing hardener. If you want to apply clear over testors, you need a clear lacquer made by testors or similar.

The best way to have done it would have been to use two part automotive paint that matches the original color, then use automotive clear coat over the top.
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Old 03-08-07, 06:45 PM
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stop. stop now.



find someone who sells it. use it.

http://www.1shot.com/home.html
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Old 03-08-07, 07:08 PM
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1. You need to check the drying time for your basecoat. They may have a window where you can't recoat, say between 1 hour and 24 hours.
2. You probably mixed enamel and lacquer. If you spray lacquer over an enamel, no matter how long it has dried and cured, you are asking for trouble. Enamel basecoat = enamel clearcoat, touchups, etc for life. You can, however, spray enamel over a fully cured lacquer.
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Old 03-08-07, 07:41 PM
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Testors is enamel. I thought that a lot of BF roadies use it for touchups. I did not spray it - it's a touch up job dabbed on with a brush. I then used the automotive clear coat (again with a brush for touch up) which ate the Testors up.
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Old 03-08-07, 07:51 PM
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Brushing the clear coat on over an enamel is a bad idea, as it softens the enamel, and will smear it. You can put auto clear over enamel, but it needs to be sprayed on in light dusted coats, and allowed to fully dry between coats. Too much can also cause it to run until it is fully sealed under the new clear coat.

An airbrush with a small cup is the best way to do it, in this case. You can polish out the faded edges later when it's fully dry.

Trust me, I know, and so does doghair. We've both done quite a bit of painting. Him more so than me.
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Old 03-08-07, 09:33 PM
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was the auto clear coat an enamel or lacquer? even if enamel you still need to observe basecoat drying times, and brushed will take longer to dry than sprayed.
+1 I agree with Patriot that spraying is much better than brushing the clearcoat.
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Old 03-09-07, 01:17 AM
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I'm just going to add here that laquer is the worst stuff to use on a bike frame.
You're better off with rattle can enamel.
Just let it sit for 4-6 weeks before assembling.

For more of my years of bike painting experience, do a forum serach for the word PAINTING.
I've posted about every manner of bike painting and the requisite foibles!

And as always, PM me if you have questions, BEFORE you start!
 
Old 03-09-07, 05:52 AM
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Potentially stupid question:

Could one use clear fingernail varnish to put on those little scrapes that you want to keep the rust away from?
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Old 03-09-07, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Treefox
Potentially stupid question:

Could one use clear fingernail varnish to put on those little scrapes that you want to keep the rust away from?
Sure you can, it dries fast and holds up well. It even comes with the little brush.

I find color matched fingernail polish. With practice and patience it comes out great.
I have been able to match a few bikes but not all. Try it on something else first to see what shade it is when dry.
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Old 03-09-07, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 2manybikes
Sure you can, it dries fast and holds up well. It even comes with the little brush.

I find color matched fingernail polish. With practice and patience it comes out great.
I have been able to match a few bikes but not all. Try it on something else first to see what shade it is when dry.
Tragically, my bike is an odd metallic greyish-lavender. I've never seen a colour like it anywhere on anything. But I'd like to ward off the rust that comes to bare steel in this damp country.

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Old 03-09-07, 07:39 AM
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RE: Nail polish
It works great for touchups. We buy those assorted nail polish sets you find at stores like CVS, Walmart, etc. They have a selection of 30 to 50 different little bottles of nail polish, plus some clear. We can usually find a close enough color to make small touch-ups look ok. A lot of the nail polish colors have sparkles in them, which helps with metal-flake style paints.
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Old 03-09-07, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Treefox
Tragically, my bike is an odd metallic greyish-lavender. I've never seen a colour like it anywhere on anything. But I'd like to ward off the rust that comes to bare steel in this damp country.

A good auto body shop should be able to match it and sell you a pint or so. My brother is a painter and has a couple of shops. He can match about anything i take in to him. It is at least worth a shot.
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Old 03-09-07, 07:59 AM
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odd metallic greyish-lavender
Looks similar to my Bertoni's color. Found a Hyundai paint that matched pretty well. My Sherwin-Williams auto paint dealer had a hand held color "scanner" that helped match it.
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Old 03-09-07, 08:11 AM
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Well I'm not bothered enough to make it perfect - it's more a worry about those little nicks and scrapes starting to rust.
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Old 03-09-07, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Treefox
Well I'm not bothered enough to make it perfect - it's more a worry about those little nicks and scrapes starting to rust.
Find a female who spends a lot of time on her nails and ask for a place to look. You never know. Just being close may look good enough. The clear will certainly do the job.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:34 AM
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I've used auto touch enamel in small applicator bottles. It's hard to get a color match but most stores will let you exchange for another shade of the same colour. I had to try 4 different shades of red before I got it right. The semi-gloss shine on the enamel is a pretty close match to the original paint job on the bike so I didn't bother with the clearcoat.

Autobody places can also make up custom matched enamels for you too.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
I'm just going to add here that laquer is the worst stuff to use on a bike frame.
You're better off with rattle can enamel.
Just let it sit for 4-6 weeks before assembling.
This is not intuitively obvious. I searched your posts, and was unable to find a clear explanation why automotive lacquers were bad. Care to expand on it?

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Old 03-09-07, 12:31 PM
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I am changing direction. I am going to try acrylics made for model RC cars. Label says can be used on metal, plastics, ceramics etc. Since it's for RC model cars and some of them are for off-road, it should be a durable finish. I bought Fastkolor pearescents in turquoise, and white, so I can lighten it to match my frame. I also bought an acrylic clear coat by Temina. This should dry more quickly than Testors enamel and the clearcoat should work better. At least that's what I hope.
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Old 03-09-07, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Treefox
Tragically, my bike is an odd metallic greyish-lavender. I've never seen a colour like it anywhere on anything. But I'd like to ward off the rust that comes to bare steel in this damp country.

um.. you're worried about color matching on that bike?
 
Old 03-09-07, 12:41 PM
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That's not my bike. Mine is an IF Crown Jewel built as a show bike in 2000 with a custom paint job. I nicked the forks when my pliers slipped while adjusting the brakes.
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Old 03-09-07, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by eandmwilson
This is not intuitively obvious. I searched your posts, and was unable to find a clear explanation why automotive lacquers were bad. Care to expand on it?
lacquers are self-etching, which means they are designed to eat into plastics in order to adhere better to certain surfaces. this is why it's best not to apply them over enamels - because it tends to liquify them.
lacquers are GREAT for base coats on plastics.
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