Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

wheel balancing?

Old 03-28-07, 01:53 PM
  #1  
Tappets
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wheel balancing?

hi all,
have a set of mavic equipes. fairly new. i have noticed that the rear wheel seems a bit out of balance - my (bulletproof) test is to have the bike on the workstand and then i'll spin it up and let the wheel spin down. it will get the whole bike wobbling - not horribly, but it's noticeable.

would an LBS be able to balance a wheel? or could i do it myself?

the wheel is true and although i don't have an official truing stand, it does not seem to be out of round.

it's my understanding that the weld seam is directly across from the valve stem. is it possible that the welded portion could be heavier than the portion with the stem or vica versa?

any input would be greatly appreciated.

(and i was kidding about my "bulletproof" balance test. this method is obviously not scientific, just for the record) :-)
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Old 03-28-07, 02:08 PM
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No need to balance, nobody does it, all wheels are out of balance, and it doesn't hurt anything.
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Old 03-28-07, 02:17 PM
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don't worry about it. you should that bouncing that goes on when i spin up my zipps on the bike stand. on the road nothing is felt even screaming downhill.
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Old 03-28-07, 02:23 PM
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I totally agree with the above posts.
Just a note though that if spinning the wheel is really bouncing the bike around in the stand, it can be caused by a tire bead not being correctly seated. Worth checking that both tires are properly seated.
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Old 03-29-07, 05:19 AM
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If you cruised along at 70 mph it might become an issue.

Bob
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Old 03-29-07, 06:37 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
If you cruised along at 70 mph it might become an issue.

Bob
Sarcasm aside, at high speeds, i.e. when you're going downhill too fast to pedal, brace the top tube with your knees and that should smooth out any shimmies.
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Old 03-29-07, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
If you cruised along at 70 mph it might become an issue.

Bob
I didn't notice it at 65 (behind a van, down a rockin' hill). At 70 I think I'd probably start flying, so it would be moot.
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Old 03-29-07, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
I didn't notice it at 65 (behind a van, down a rockin' hill). At 70 I think I'd probably start flying, so it would be moot.
you're kidding right?

how about wheel hops? do you guys let that go? I've started ignoring them because I can never really completely remove them.
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Old 03-29-07, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
I didn't notice it at 65 (behind a van, down a rockin' hill). At 70 I think I'd probably start flying, so it would be moot.

Doesn't your seat have the little pop up spoiler that comes out above 60 mph?
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Old 03-29-07, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by steaktaco
you're kidding right?
No, I was young and dumb(er). 65 behind SAG for the Steve Speaks benefit ride following a quick flat repair. They caught me up to the main pack really quick. The van was being driven by a local pro rider familiar with motorpacing, with the back doors to the van locked open...

Originally Posted by steaktaco
I put some black lines on the rear bumper
how about wheel hops? do you guys let that go? I've started ignoring them because I can never really completely remove them.
I get rid of anything bigger than a mm, and don't sweat it under that. (we're talking about wheel roundness, right?)
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Old 03-29-07, 08:38 AM
  #11  
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I've added a peice of lead tape(from my fishing tackle box) to a rear wheel to counterbalance the stem, but only to make it bounce less while on the stand. I never noticed it on the road.
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Old 03-29-07, 08:45 AM
  #12  
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if you wanted to, couldn't you hang the wheel and balance it that way? Kind of like the way car tires were balanced in the old days.

Just pull the QR skewer, put a length of twine through, hang it from a branch or a hook in the ceiling, and you'll have a pretty good gauge.
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Old 03-29-07, 09:04 AM
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Not important, although I usually put my wheel magnet on the lighter part of the wheel after I put the tire and tube on, just because I figure it might as well help rather than hinder (usually the stem side, for some reason, unless I use a longer stem than needed). I don't do anything more than that, and never had a problem. Remember, that balance might even change if/when you replace a tube and/or move the tire around.
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Old 03-29-07, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Doesn't your seat have the little pop up spoiler that comes out above 60 mph?
Yep, it's called my body. Fastest I went downhill was 60mph, and my bike wasn't shimmying, but I sure was!
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Old 03-29-07, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
I get rid of anything bigger than a mm, and don't sweat it under that. (we're talking about wheel roundness, right?)
this one is slightly more than a mm, maybe 1.25 mm—but it' right on the weld and I'm going to cry before I fix that so fuggedabutit.

most of my other wheels are less than that and respond to rounding better, but this one is a deeper rim so fuggedabutit.
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Old 03-29-07, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
Not important, although I usually put my wheel magnet on the lighter part of the wheel after I put the tire and tube on, just because I figure it might as well help rather than hinder (usually the stem side, for some reason, unless I use a longer stem than needed). I don't do anything more than that, and never had a problem. Remember, that balance might even change if/when you replace a tube and/or move the tire around.
+1 Oddly, balancing my rather light Rolf Prima Elan Aeros, my magnet's on the stem side also.
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Old 03-29-07, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by steaktaco
this one is slightly more than a mm, maybe 1.25 mm—but it' right on the weld and I'm going to cry before I fix that so fuggedabutit.

most of my other wheels are less than that and respond to rounding better, but this one is a deeper rim so fuggedabutit.
Yeah, at the seam, you're not going to fix it. All done
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Old 03-29-07, 01:01 PM
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well, now it's turned into one of those things where i know it's not just right so i gotta at least try to balance it a little better. i wouldn't drive around on car tires that were out of balance or build an engine without balancing everything, so why stop on the bike?

i'll give a tiny piece of the lead tape a try. move it around, try it, move it around, try it again... rinse, lather, repeat... call it OCD of some kind. it prolly won't work and i'll fuggedaboutit in a month or so anyway... or will i?

thanks for the input
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Old 03-29-07, 01:06 PM
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If you can't find lead tape anywhere else golf shops carry it. I've used it on one wheelset, but it really doesn't seem to make any diff on the road.
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Old 03-29-07, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tappets
well, now it's turned into one of those things where i know it's not just right so i gotta at least try to balance it a little better. i wouldn't drive around on car tires that were out of balance or build an engine without balancing everything, so why stop on the bike?

i'll give a tiny piece of the lead tape a try. move it around, try it, move it around, try it again... rinse, lather, repeat... call it OCD of some kind. it prolly won't work and i'll fuggedaboutit in a month or so anyway... or will i?

thanks for the input
the proper thing to do is to drill holes opposite the valve stem until it balances out. and then never switch tube brands. ever.
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Old 03-29-07, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tappets
i'll give a tiny piece of the lead tape a try.
thanks for the input

Do you realize how much this will slow you down. The cost of the rotational weight at the perimiter, while it would appear minor, when it must be accelerated hundreds of times in the course of a ride/ race will accumulate.

Better to selectively replace brass nipples with Al nipples, thereby subtracting weight, rather than adding.
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Old 03-29-07, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Do you realize how much this will slow you down. The cost of the rotational weight at the perimiter, while it would appear minor, when it must be accelerated hundreds of times in the course of a ride/ race will accumulate.

Better to selectively replace brass nipples with Al nipples, thereby subtracting weight, rather than adding.
+1 - All it costs is time. Let me know how that works out for you guys...
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Old 03-29-07, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Do you realize how much this will slow you down. The cost of the rotational weight at the perimiter, while it would appear minor, when it must be accelerated hundreds of times in the course of a ride/ race will accumulate.

Better to selectively replace brass nipples with Al nipples, thereby subtracting weight, rather than adding.
smart.
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Old 03-29-07, 03:57 PM
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"Do you realize how much this will slow you down. The cost of the rotational weight at the perimiter, while it would appear minor, when it must be accelerated hundreds of times in the course of a ride/ race will accumulate."

well... son of a... i think you're really on to something here! i didn't see the forest through the trees.
thank the gods that you guys showed up in time!
as far as replacing brass/Al nipples, how about CF? i mean, that's what that OCP biz is all about right?
has someone invented those yet?

thanks for the replies
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Old 03-29-07, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jschen
+1 Oddly, balancing my rather light Rolf Prima Elan Aeros, my magnet's on the stem side also.
Anyone know why that is? Is the seam beefed up to prevent failure or something?
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