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Dissapointed in my Compact :(

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Dissapointed in my Compact :(

Old 04-16-07, 10:43 PM
  #76  
cccorlew
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I just set up my Ultegra 10 speed with a 50-34 and 13-25
I spin out downhill sometimes, but I don't care.
I crosschain by accident sometimes and don't notice, more noise or problems, though I shift out of it it asap.
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Old 04-17-07, 01:26 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Blue Jays
Hi botto-



Received your ad hominem, non sequitur attack response, thanks.

Doing 100 r.p.m. or more just isn't my style. In my earlier post about a "mashing" pedal style, my preference is to hang around 85 r.p.m. It can go higher and can go lower during the course of a ride. You won't have to worry about my strength as I was all-state soccer in high school (later helped finance college tuition) and currently still play. Our coaches had us nearly living on the squat rack, leg press, leg extension, calf raise, and hamstring curl machines both during the season and off-season.

~ Blue Jays ~
Hi BJ -

Don't take it so personally.

I'm sure you're not the only guy/gal in a yellow jacket with mirrors attached to his/her helmet, grinding/mashing/and plodding away on the MUP.

~if you don't know who i am, look to the left~

Last edited by botto; 04-17-07 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 04-17-07, 02:10 AM
  #78  
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Hi botto-

Received your follow-up insults and additional ad hominem attacks. Your behavior to fellow BikeForums posters is abusive in nature and others have taken notice.

~ Blue Jays ~

Last edited by Blue Jays; 04-17-07 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 04-17-07, 02:14 AM
  #79  
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To others, my pedaling RPMs probably averages around 85 RPMs based on what I've casually observed on my computer. I would really need to pay attention to the CatEye to get a true picture measured over lots of rides on varying terrain. Based on my higher-than-average strength, I'm inclined to push a bigger gear and move forward a greater distance with each pedalstroke since it doesn't leave me tired towards the end of the day on 80-mile days. My highest single-day performance last season was 125 miles and I essentially felt OK after a good recovery meal. This was using a traditional crankset coupled with a 11-23 cassette with no specific concentration on spinning or pushing bigger gears. It was with whatever felt comfortable.

I'll be doing multi-day rides in Colorado later this year and I'm thinking of making minor cassette changes and reducing intensity to see if that results in higher overall speeds during the whole event. Either way, I'm retaining a 170mm crank and keeping the 53 x 39 up front.

~ Blue Jays ~

Last edited by Blue Jays; 04-17-07 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 04-17-07, 02:23 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Blue Jays
Hi botto-

Received your follow-up insults and additional ad hominem attacks. Your behavior to fellow BikeForums posters is abusive in nature.

~ Blue Jays ~
Hi BJ -

lighten' up francis.

i wasn't insulting you, merely trying to point out that a little leg speed would not go amiss.

~lif you don't know who i am, look left~
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Old 04-17-07, 02:58 AM
  #81  
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Am I the only one who thinks that those short chain stays are the main culprit? BTW, nice looking bike.


Tim
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Old 04-17-07, 03:18 AM
  #82  
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short chain stays and compacts are not the evil mix that some think they are. if you get them well set up, with the correct amount of chain links from the get-go, and pay careful attention to front derailleur alignment, then comapct cranks are an excellent option for peope who ride around in the hills a lot.

50/34 and 11/23 is a very capable combination on my TCR (that'd be a size Small: pretty short stays). cross-chaining is not ideal, but no worse than on a 53/39 combo.... and I actually get a more useful range of ratios with my gearing than i would on a 53/39 to 12-27. sure, the range you ride in will be different from a standard set up but get used to it and stop thinking about the gears all the time and just ride the damn thing.
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Old 04-17-07, 05:39 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Heck ya! Hey at least the spacers are two-toned.

I'm starting to think I will swap the front chainring and pick up a 12-25 or 11-25 cassette. I'll probably be happier. The post about the ratios between chainrings is exactly what's going on. I'm diggin deeper on the cassette so that there's more to play with on both ends.
I'd go for more width on the back -- i.e. 11-25.

One thing you might want to consider is decreasing the size of the big ring to a 48 rather than increasing the size of the small ring. The problem with compacts is although they have a nice gear inch range, if you like to cruise around 20 mph, the big ring is too big and the small ring is too small.

If you widen the cassette to the 11-25 and drop the big ring size, you'll find that you're closer to the middle of the cassette more often when you're on the big ring. In other words, you'll have reasonably tight gear ratios you can actually use. With the 48T in front, you'll have to go over 40mph before you come close to spinning out. Then, you only need the small ring for winds and some hills.

Even on flats, a small ring can be nice. If you ever have much distance to ride against sufficiently strong headwinds, 34T will not seem that tiny.
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Old 04-17-07, 05:59 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001

Also if I had a bigger max cog then I would still have a bailout on a 36 and could use at least a 50X24 while hanging in the big ring...instead of the 50X22 I'm stuck with now.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to up the chainring to a 36, and convert the cassette.
I've said it a few times over the last few months....one of the best all-around combos for a multitude of terrain types is a 50/36 w/ a 12-27 cassette for your "average" rider. Or 11-26 isn't half bad either, but that leaves me with a 50x23 for my big ring "climbing" gear, and I like the 50x24 better.

I rarely use the 27T cog around here for anything other than A) base miles when I'm climbing, B) recovery days, and C) the steepest climbs when my legs are all done. But...it's nice when it's there.

You will also find that the multiple shifting/speed drop tends to go away a bit going from the 34T to the 36T when starting to climb - it obviously has better gear spacing wth the 50/36 over the 50/34. However...on a particularly hilly climb in the Berkshires last year, I was damn glad to have that 34x27 combo. I still have my 34T 'rings handy in my basement in the event I need them.

Try the 50/36 w/ 12-27 for a month, and then draw some conclusions.
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Old 04-17-07, 06:01 AM
  #85  
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I really don't get all this complaining about compacts not shifting well. I run Campagnolo Record w/FSA SL-K cranks 50/36 (11/23) and a standard front DR. I don't have any cross chaining issues, my bike shifts perfectly and is very quiet.
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Old 04-17-07, 06:02 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
I really don't get all this complaining about compacts not shifting well. I don't have any cross chaining issues, my bike shifts perfectly and is very quiet.
+1
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Old 04-17-07, 06:04 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Blue Jays
Hi botto-

Received your follow-up insults and additional ad hominem attacks. Your behavior to fellow BikeForums posters is abusive in nature and others have taken notice.

~ Blue Jays ~
Hi Blue Jays-

Your overly sensitive reactions to the slightest of criticisms are showing your insecurities. Others have noticed.
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Old 04-17-07, 07:33 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
I really don't get all this complaining about compacts not shifting well. I run Campagnolo Record w/FSA SL-K cranks 50/36 (11/23) and a standard front DR. I don't have any cross chaining issues, my bike shifts perfectly and is very quiet.
Your 50/36 shifts better then any 50/34 by design and the OP is b!tching because his likely isn't adjusted perfectly which is required because he rides a little bike with higher X-chain angles then bigger bikes.
Also...you shouldn't defend a troll like botto to Blue Jays who is a good guy.
Other then that, carry on as usual.

George
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Old 04-17-07, 07:35 AM
  #89  
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El Diablo Rojo, thanks for your input.
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Old 04-17-07, 07:38 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by biker7
Your 50/36 shifts better then any 50/34 by design and the OP is b!tching because his likely isn't adjusted perfectly which is required because he rides a little bike with higher X-chain angles then bigger bikes.
Also...you shouldn't defend a troll like botto to Blue Jays who is a good guy.
Other then that, carry on as usual.

George
"...lol"

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Old 04-17-07, 07:47 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
I really don't get all this complaining about compacts not shifting well. I run Campagnolo Record w/FSA SL-K cranks 50/36 (11/23) and a standard front DR. I don't have any cross chaining issues, my bike shifts perfectly and is very quiet.
same here. campy centaur ct cranks and 11-23 (with a standard front dr) and i have no problems at all.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:10 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
I really don't get all this complaining about compacts not shifting well. I run Campagnolo Record w/FSA SL-K cranks 50/36 (11/23) and a standard front DR. I don't have any cross chaining issues, my bike shifts perfectly and is very quiet.
Criminy...For the 1000th time I'm not complaining about the SHIFTING on my compact setup. It shifts like a dream. Any numbnut whose spent more than 5 minutes working on a bike can set up a compact to shift correctly.

The issue is the limitation of the equipment caused, most likely, by my short chain stays, cassette selection, ratio between the rings, and the friggin new (stiff) Wippermann.

For the last time folks...it shifts beautifully.

The cross-chaining is NOT FD RUB.

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Old 04-17-07, 08:11 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by biker7
Your 50/36 shifts better then any 50/34 by design and the OP is b!tching because his likely isn't adjusted perfectly which is required because he rides a little bike with higher X-chain angles then bigger bikes.
Also...you shouldn't defend a troll like botto to Blue Jays who is a good guy.
Other then that, carry on as usual.

George
You're a fool.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:15 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
You're a fool.
george just got



"...lol"

Last edited by botto; 04-17-07 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:28 AM
  #95  
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I think you need to adjust your rear gear railer. And stuff.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:35 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Mo'Phat
I think you need to adjust your rear gear railer. And stuff.
I did! I used a hammer. When it made noise I hit it. That's how that works right?
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Old 04-17-07, 08:41 AM
  #97  
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I dunno how you guys can climb 15+% grades with a 39x23 or even 34x25

I was suffering with a touring crank (46/36/26) and 12-27 on my first 200k on saturday, grades up to 21% and 8400ish feet of elevation gain.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:43 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Criminy...For the 1000th time I'm not complaining about the SHIFTING on my compact setup. It shifts like a dream. Any numbnut whose spent more than 5 minutes working on a bike can set up a compact to shift correctly.

The issue is the limitation of the equipment caused, most likely, by my short chain stays, cassette selection, ratio between the rings, and the friggin new (stiff) Wippermann.

For the last time folks...it shifts beautifully.

The cross-chaining is NOT FD RUB.

well then you should change your title...

"Disappointed with the limitation of the equipment caused, most likely, by my short chain stays, cassette selection, ratio between the rings, and the friggin new (stiff) Wippermann."
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Old 04-17-07, 08:44 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by ggg300
well then you should change your title...

"Disappointed with the limitation of the equipment caused, most likely, by my short chain stays, cassette selection, ratio between the rings, and the friggin new (stiff) Wippermann."
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Old 04-17-07, 08:48 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by ggg300
well then you should change your title...

"Disappointed with the limitation of the equipment caused, most likely, by my short chain stays, cassette selection, ratio between the rings, and the friggin new (stiff) Wippermann."
Indeed...
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