what compact ratio do you use, and why?
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what compact ratio do you use, and why?
i'm just curious , what compact gear ratio people here prefer, and what cogs to you use with it? and why?
i'm asking because i was thinking of trying out a compact, and i've read that some people prefer the 36 over the 34 because they claim the 34 is useless, and others claim the they spend most of the time in the 50 anyway. now, if you spend most of the time in the 50, i take it you only use the smaller gear for climbing. if that's the case, why not go with the 34, because i would think it would be better for climbing?
and that's only the crank gearing, i'm sure there is a big differences between 12-23 and 12-25 cogs too. also, with the 50 up front, would an 11 in the rear be useful? i personally wouldn't consider it with a standard double, because a 12 would be fine for me, but is it something to consider with a compact?
i'm about 190 pounds, and i think i climb pretty decent for a big guy with a standard double, but i'm also thinking that a compact may be a wise choice on my next bike. now keep in mind i live on LI, and there aren't that many steep climbs here, but i would still like to get over them easier so i can keep up with the better riders. i can keep up with the "AA" riders on the flats, but like most heavier riders, once we hit hills it's just too much for me to keep up with the lighter guys...
i'm asking because i was thinking of trying out a compact, and i've read that some people prefer the 36 over the 34 because they claim the 34 is useless, and others claim the they spend most of the time in the 50 anyway. now, if you spend most of the time in the 50, i take it you only use the smaller gear for climbing. if that's the case, why not go with the 34, because i would think it would be better for climbing?
and that's only the crank gearing, i'm sure there is a big differences between 12-23 and 12-25 cogs too. also, with the 50 up front, would an 11 in the rear be useful? i personally wouldn't consider it with a standard double, because a 12 would be fine for me, but is it something to consider with a compact?
i'm about 190 pounds, and i think i climb pretty decent for a big guy with a standard double, but i'm also thinking that a compact may be a wise choice on my next bike. now keep in mind i live on LI, and there aren't that many steep climbs here, but i would still like to get over them easier so i can keep up with the better riders. i can keep up with the "AA" riders on the flats, but like most heavier riders, once we hit hills it's just too much for me to keep up with the lighter guys...
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50/36 and 12-23.
I didn't want to deal with chain drop issues with a huge gap between the front rings, so I went with 36. I'm 135lb and built like a climber and the main reason I went compact was for tighter gear spacing.
I spend all of my time in the 50 unless it's steep climbing or I'm working on spin. Even with the compact, I rarely find myself wishing I had the 11: I'm happier with the closer ratios at the other end of the cassette.
I didn't want to deal with chain drop issues with a huge gap between the front rings, so I went with 36. I'm 135lb and built like a climber and the main reason I went compact was for tighter gear spacing.
I spend all of my time in the 50 unless it's steep climbing or I'm working on spin. Even with the compact, I rarely find myself wishing I had the 11: I'm happier with the closer ratios at the other end of the cassette.
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I use 50/34 and 12/27 or 11/26. Dont really need the 27 or 26 but I already had the cassettes before I bought the compacts and just havent invested in newer cassettes.
I may pick up a 12/25 which would be about right for the riding I do.
I may pick up a 12/25 which would be about right for the riding I do.
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I use a 50/36 and 12-27 on my Shimano bike, and an 11-26 on my SRAM bike (my Trek 2100 has some weird gearing on it)
I prefer the 36T chainring to the 34T, as it just works better all around - better shifting performance, less spacing between the 50 and 36 chainrings, and I haven't "missed" not having the gearing of the 34T. Granted, I still have my 34T chainrings kicking around in the event I do some insanely hilly ride....but for the most part, the 50/36 is great for what I need.
My favorite cassette is the 12-27.
I prefer the 36T chainring to the 34T, as it just works better all around - better shifting performance, less spacing between the 50 and 36 chainrings, and I haven't "missed" not having the gearing of the 34T. Granted, I still have my 34T chainrings kicking around in the event I do some insanely hilly ride....but for the most part, the 50/36 is great for what I need.
My favorite cassette is the 12-27.
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I'm on a 50/34 and 12/25. I have around 2500 miles with the compact crank and have spent around 5 miles in the 34t ring. While climbs can get around to 10-12% around here in MA, these steeper ones are short and can easily be powered out in the 50t ring. Even though I switched to the 12-25, I still rarely use the 25 tooth cog and keep it in reserve.
I find the 12t cog just fine, since I don't tend to power down hills anyway. I can usually coast faster with a good tuck than I could spin a 50-11.
I've been thinking about switching to a 36t inner ring, but realized "why" when I never use the 34t anyway.
The best part is you stay in the 50t more and don't need to shift to the small ring at the start of a hill. 95% of the time in a large group ride, everyone shifts down but doesn't compensate enough with a suitable rear shift. They then lose momentum and slow down. Meanwhile, staying in the 50t ring, I lay in a bit more power, fly by everyone like they are standing still, and end up having to hang back at the top to wait for the group. Its not that I'm any more powerful, its just more effective use of it.
I find the 12t cog just fine, since I don't tend to power down hills anyway. I can usually coast faster with a good tuck than I could spin a 50-11.
I've been thinking about switching to a 36t inner ring, but realized "why" when I never use the 34t anyway.
The best part is you stay in the 50t more and don't need to shift to the small ring at the start of a hill. 95% of the time in a large group ride, everyone shifts down but doesn't compensate enough with a suitable rear shift. They then lose momentum and slow down. Meanwhile, staying in the 50t ring, I lay in a bit more power, fly by everyone like they are standing still, and end up having to hang back at the top to wait for the group. Its not that I'm any more powerful, its just more effective use of it.
Last edited by teterider; 04-18-07 at 11:29 AM.
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My setup is 50-34 with a 12-27 cassette.
My favorite crusing on the flat gear is 50/19, my favorite climbing gear is 34/21. I rarely use the 24 or 27, but I'm sure glad to have them when I need them.
Low gears are our friends on long climbing rides and steep grades. They don't make us faster, but they do make our legs last longer.
My favorite crusing on the flat gear is 50/19, my favorite climbing gear is 34/21. I rarely use the 24 or 27, but I'm sure glad to have them when I need them.
Low gears are our friends on long climbing rides and steep grades. They don't make us faster, but they do make our legs last longer.
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Not meaning to hijack the thread, but here goes anyway...
I'm new to this whole compact thing, been on a triple for the last 2 years. Right now I'm running a 50/34 with a 12-27 in the back. I have the FSA SL-K cranks, so I assume if I want a 36T on the front I can just pickup any 36T ring that has the same BCD, right?? For now I will stick with the 34, since I've only done 2 rides, but I have noticed the major drop when going from the 50 to the 34. The shift is fine, but I have to shift the rear down at least 2-3 so I don't spin out like a madman...BTW how much cross-chaining is ok in the big ring ring??
BTW, so far I love the compact because the triple I had was causing my to grind up hills in the middle and my 25 in the back. I hated shifting into the granny so I just ground it out, now I can spin away. Actually I see the 27 as probably being a bit of overkill for the terrain I have around here, except for 1 or 2 climbs. That might make the 36T a better go too.
Sorry to ramble on...
Rich
I'm new to this whole compact thing, been on a triple for the last 2 years. Right now I'm running a 50/34 with a 12-27 in the back. I have the FSA SL-K cranks, so I assume if I want a 36T on the front I can just pickup any 36T ring that has the same BCD, right?? For now I will stick with the 34, since I've only done 2 rides, but I have noticed the major drop when going from the 50 to the 34. The shift is fine, but I have to shift the rear down at least 2-3 so I don't spin out like a madman...BTW how much cross-chaining is ok in the big ring ring??
BTW, so far I love the compact because the triple I had was causing my to grind up hills in the middle and my 25 in the back. I hated shifting into the granny so I just ground it out, now I can spin away. Actually I see the 27 as probably being a bit of overkill for the terrain I have around here, except for 1 or 2 climbs. That might make the 36T a better go too.
Sorry to ramble on...
Rich
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I've been using a 50/34 and 11/25 for about a month and really like it. I do use the 11 every now and I rarely need the 25 even in the foothills and canyons around here. I wouldn't say the 34 is useless, I'm 195# and it can get steep out here, but if I wasn't in CO or another hilly place I wouldn't need it.
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I run 50/34 and 12-27 and 12-28. I rode Moab's La Sal Loop last October which has some disgustingly steep grades (3000' in 7.5 miles) with a 36/28 low gear, and I wished and cursed myself for not having the 34. At 4mph, a couple more rpm would have saved my legs big time.
My local climbs are mtn passes; having the 34 is good. What Terry said on the legs lasting longer...
My local climbs are mtn passes; having the 34 is good. What Terry said on the legs lasting longer...
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
My setup is 50-34 with a 12-27 cassette.
My favorite crusing on the flat gear is 50/19, my favorite climbing gear is 34/21. I rarely use the 24 or 27, but I'm sure glad to have them when I need them.
Low gears are our friends on long climbing rides and steep grades. They don't make us faster, but they do make our legs last longer.
My favorite crusing on the flat gear is 50/19, my favorite climbing gear is 34/21. I rarely use the 24 or 27, but I'm sure glad to have them when I need them.
Low gears are our friends on long climbing rides and steep grades. They don't make us faster, but they do make our legs last longer.
I also run this gearing. Its all about where you ride. I ride alot of the same area's that Terry does and for this area it just makes since.
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Originally Posted by teterider
I'm on a 50/34 and 12/25. I have around 2500 miles with the compact crank and have spent around 5 miles in the 34t ring. While climbs can get around to 10-12% around here in MA, these steeper ones are short and can easily be powered out in the 50t ring. Even though I switched to the 12-25, I still rarely use the 25 tooth cog and keep it in reserve.
I find the 12t cog just fine, since I don't tend to power down hills anyway. I can usually coast faster with a good tuck than I could spin a 50-11.
I've been thinking about switching to a 36t inner ring, but realized "why" when I never use the 34t anyway.
The best part is you stay in the 50t more and don't need to shift to the small ring at the start of a hill. 95% of the time in a large group ride, everyone shifts down but doesn't compensate enough with a suitable rear shift. They then lose momentum and slow down. Meanwhile, staying in the 50t ring, I lay in a bit more power, fly by everyone like they are standing still, and end up having to hang back at the top to wait for the group. Its not that I'm any more powerful, its just more effective use of it.
I find the 12t cog just fine, since I don't tend to power down hills anyway. I can usually coast faster with a good tuck than I could spin a 50-11.
I've been thinking about switching to a 36t inner ring, but realized "why" when I never use the 34t anyway.
The best part is you stay in the 50t more and don't need to shift to the small ring at the start of a hill. 95% of the time in a large group ride, everyone shifts down but doesn't compensate enough with a suitable rear shift. They then lose momentum and slow down. Meanwhile, staying in the 50t ring, I lay in a bit more power, fly by everyone like they are standing still, and end up having to hang back at the top to wait for the group. Its not that I'm any more powerful, its just more effective use of it.
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I have a 50/36 with a 12-27. I would like a 34t in front. I am pretty slow and have trouble with hills due to my weight, so I really need the lower gearing.
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I'm using 50/34 and 12/27. sometimes I really miss 52/11 but I really do need that 27 sometimes. Maybe next year, my left leg would be strong enough to go to a 11/23
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Originally Posted by FIVE ONE SIX
i'm just curious , what compact gear ratio people here prefer, and what cogs to you use with it? and why?
i'm asking because i was thinking of trying out a compact, and i've read that some people prefer the 36 over the 34 because they claim the 34 is useless, and others claim the they spend most of the time in the 50 anyway. now, if you spend most of the time in the 50, i take it you only use the smaller gear for climbing. if that's the case, why not go with the 34, because i would think it would be better for climbing?
and that's only the crank gearing, i'm sure there is a big differences between 12-23 and 12-25 cogs too. also, with the 50 up front, would an 11 in the rear be useful? i personally wouldn't consider it with a standard double, because a 12 would be fine for me, but is it something to consider with a compact?
i'm about 190 pounds, and i think i climb pretty decent for a big guy with a standard double, but i'm also thinking that a compact may be a wise choice on my next bike. now keep in mind i live on LI, and there aren't that many steep climbs here, but i would still like to get over them easier so i can keep up with the better riders. i can keep up with the "AA" riders on the flats, but like most heavier riders, once we hit hills it's just too much for me to keep up with the lighter guys...
i'm asking because i was thinking of trying out a compact, and i've read that some people prefer the 36 over the 34 because they claim the 34 is useless, and others claim the they spend most of the time in the 50 anyway. now, if you spend most of the time in the 50, i take it you only use the smaller gear for climbing. if that's the case, why not go with the 34, because i would think it would be better for climbing?
and that's only the crank gearing, i'm sure there is a big differences between 12-23 and 12-25 cogs too. also, with the 50 up front, would an 11 in the rear be useful? i personally wouldn't consider it with a standard double, because a 12 would be fine for me, but is it something to consider with a compact?
i'm about 190 pounds, and i think i climb pretty decent for a big guy with a standard double, but i'm also thinking that a compact may be a wise choice on my next bike. now keep in mind i live on LI, and there aren't that many steep climbs here, but i would still like to get over them easier so i can keep up with the better riders. i can keep up with the "AA" riders on the flats, but like most heavier riders, once we hit hills it's just too much for me to keep up with the lighter guys...
Why????
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50/34 with 11-29 cassette. I live in a hilly area and like hilly centuries. And at 50 I would like to preserve my knees. Most of my climbs are with the 34/19-23 range but I occasionally use the 26 and 29 cogs on very long or steep hill. Coming back home from a ride means climbing a 1.25 mile street with a section at a 22% grade and most of the rest around 15% and 18%.
Last edited by gpelpel; 04-18-07 at 01:27 PM.
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i ride a 50/34 with a 12-25 in the back....i spent most of the time up in the 50 and save the 34 for the climbs...i weigh around 205 so i i wanted the 34 vs the 36......go with the 34 if u have some serious hills like i do in western PA
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Seattle Area
I run a 50/36 with a 12-27. I live in Seattle
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50/34 with 12-15. heavy guy; not a great climber; very hilly area.
If I lived in a rolling hills area I'd go 53/39 but here I need the 34. When I get to 220 or so I would probably prefer the 36 for smoother shifting.
If I lived in a rolling hills area I'd go 53/39 but here I need the 34. When I get to 220 or so I would probably prefer the 36 for smoother shifting.
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Originally Posted by Dial_tone
50/34 with 12-15. heavy guy; not a great climber; very hilly area.
If I lived in a rolling hills area I'd go 53/39 but here I need the 34. When I get to 220 or so I would probably prefer the 36 for smoother shifting.
If I lived in a rolling hills area I'd go 53/39 but here I need the 34. When I get to 220 or so I would probably prefer the 36 for smoother shifting.
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50/34t CT
11-23 cassette
Best broad range of gears for overall riding I have found yet. It's a little better than the standard 53/39 w/12-25t cassette without having too much change in gear inches. The only thing that may be a little better is going with the newer 11-25 cassettes to assist in climbing.
11-23 cassette
Best broad range of gears for overall riding I have found yet. It's a little better than the standard 53/39 w/12-25t cassette without having too much change in gear inches. The only thing that may be a little better is going with the newer 11-25 cassettes to assist in climbing.
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I have an old suntour bike with the 36 (who says compacts are a new concept),with its 28cog in the back,it's marginal at best for hilly terrain,not to mention loading the bike at all or fatigue. Getting away from a triple,having a 34t is a welcome advantage.Where I live now,by the coast,it doesn't matter.In the mountains of NYS or New England,say what you will, having a triple OR a set-up with 34ring and 26cog is a welcome feature.Hey ,you're in LONG ISLAND,I've riden there,not any hills.You have many choices !!