sherbornpeddler

Greetings,
Your advice please!
Retired this January, I bought my first new bike in 25 years (Cannondale R5000 58cm). After 250 miles and two stem changes I switched LBS to one who did a great job fitting me. Now I’ve put 300 miles on his IF loaner-demo and decided to buy a Serotta Fierte (steel) as the geometry works dramatically better for my 56 year old, short torso, long legged body. My typical rides are 25-40 miles, 16-18 mph and getting longer and faster as I lose weight, gain fitness and the summer approaches. By mid summer I'll do a few centuries and the local PMC fundraiser. One goal is to stay up with the skinnier of my fellow geezers on the hills during our annual week bike tour.

Now, wise bikologists: Do I fit the new frame with the gear from the Cannondale R5000 and sell off the frame or invest in wheels and a new Campy, Shimano groupo. Strip the "old" new or buy all new? The original LBS declines to take the Cannondale back with 250 miles on it.

The R5000 has Dura Ace derailleurs, Truvativ Rouleur carbon cranks, Ksyzium elite wheels, Fi'zik Arione saddle, FSA bar and Ritchey Axis stem. I’ll need a new fork and different front derailleur clamp as the seat tube is different diameter.

My previous bikes are '82 Raleigh Pro and '70 Lygie (Bilenky rebuilt with SS couplings).

michaelmc

You do know that the Fierte isn't custom, right? It's the stock sized Serotta model? Regardless, if it fits you, then it's a great bike. If you have DA and Ksyrium Elites, I would just transfer as many of the components as possible. Money not an objection to you? Then also slap on a DA or Ultegra crankset. You don't need anything more than what you have unless you're seriously racing, IMHO.

EDITED TO ADD: I'm in the long legs-short torso club myself, so I feel your pain. Literally.

NRRider

I had a similar experience with my R5000. The C-dale is just what people like us (long legs, short torso) DON'T need--they tend to have longer top tubes than the average frame. They are a great deal given the components, however, and I ended up selling the frame and keeping the components and feel like I made out pretty well. By the way, I may be selling a frame that could fit you. If you haven't already commited to the Fierte PM me your size. I now have 4 frames with shorter TTs and I'm not keeping more than 2-3.

sherbornpeddler

Good to know I'm not alone. I did commit to the frame although I'll keep your offer in mind. I'm 5'11" and ordered the 56cm Fierte.

sherbornpeddler

Michaelmc,
THanks for your suggestions.
I am corrected. I did consider a custom IF frame but learned the standard Fierte, although a bit heavier fits and has a desireable (for me) plusher ride.
I have a week or so to consider different cranks as the loaner has 175 length and feel fine. The R5000 has 172.5. Not sure I feel much difference though. I take it you think the DA or Ultegra are better?

StanSeven

There's no way your initial LBS should have sold you anything other than a 56cm Cannondale. With your height and body description, a 58 is much too big.

As switching componets, you really have two options assuming you don't want the Connondale frame. Sell the Cannondale complete bike or switch the componets and just sell the frame. You might be able to sell the entire bike easier.

Both Ultegra and DA are excellent. It really depends on how much usage you plan on putting on the bike. Overall DA will hold up better over the long haul.

The componets on your Cannodale are all good choices by the way.

sherbornpeddler

Yep, I'm getting the message, albeit painfully the first LBS was not skilled in fitting and probably come from a long line of long torsos.
Thanks for the advice re components. Re cranks, I'm averaging 150 miles per week.

swalburn

I picked up a Fierte Ti on my 29th birthday. I had an allez pro which was a great bike. The Fierte is an awesome bike. I was able set it up with a 120 stem and almost no spacers. It is a size 58. The specialized is size 56. They both had the same top tube length, and were set up by the same fitter. I like the Fierte better, but sometimes I miss having a more aggressive race geometry. However, when the road gets rough you will not ride a better bike than the Fierte. If you just ride to log miles and aren't racing, I don't think there is a better bike. I'm starting to race a little bit, and am getting the itch for a new ride. I sure the Fierte would be more than capable. I'm even considering getting a custom legend or nove so I could have the tubes spec'ed for my weight. Anyways, Good Luck with the new bike.

sherbornpeddler

You hit the nail on the head regarding my interests at least for now; miles not breaking tape. I may, if I figure out how to keep teh saddle pain to a minimum try brevet and then I'll be thinking about lights and a bag. Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll get my frame in a 3 weeks and let you know asap.

shapelike

I'm 5'10" w/ an 85cm inseam. I feel your pain too. People have mentioned keeping a close eye on the effective top tube/top tube length of bikes, but I also strongly consider the head tube length. You can account for a given stack height of the headset, 4cm absolute max of spacers and a worst-case-scenario +17 degree rise stem. At that point you can see where "as high as you possibly can" ends up, and sometimes due to the leg length it's still not enough. Keeping an eye on that has lead me to bikes that'll be comfortable and not force too much saddle-to-bars drop. Somtimes I end up going a size up, as I'm fine riding a 90mm stem if it means my head tube will be 3cm taller.

sherbornpeddler

Yep, I shortened the ill-fitting Cannondale stem from 110 to 90 and then, gukp to 50. The 50 was more an experiment, cramped the cockpit so to speak, severly inhibited standing on the pedals and made the sterring very odd. My new LBS explained if I could get BB, handlebar and saddle triangle correct I still would be improperly positioned between the wheels. The rule of thumb about having hte handlebars blocking the view of the front axel seems to address proper stem length.

MIN 

The 58cm Cannondale is a 57.5cm top tube bike which seem long for you if you had to move to a 50(!)cm stem. I am also 5'11" but I ride a 58cm CAAD8 with not too much post showing (4 inches) and a 110cm stem. I suppose I have proportionally shorter legs and a longer torso because the 56cm did not feel as good on me.

Keep in mind that CAAD8 in 58cm is actually another company's 56cm because the 58 represents center to top measurement. Center to center for the 58cm size is actually 56 cm.

In that sense, yes... it is a long TT bike.

My bike:

Duke of Kent

If you have to use anything less than a 100mm stem, at that size, the frame is too big. Maybe even two sizes too big. My "race" fit set-up has me on a 50cm frame with a 110mm, and I could go to a 48 with a 120mm for my next frame.

sherbornpeddler

Fierte due next week. A bit excited. Now I ride a borrowed custom IF frame with a light, sleek properly poisitioned FSA saddle that is slightly better than a 2x4 in comfort. I tried switching to my favorite Brooks Pro and can't adjust it aft enough, by at least a cm. I'm advised Thomson seatposts are available but can't find specs on set back dimensions to compare. I supose I'll wait and see.

Paul Barnard

You should be able to get good money for your almost new C-Dale if you decide to sell it.

ridethecliche

I agree!
From what I understand, my size is roughly a 56 in most brands but a 58 in Cdale since they measure the top tube instead of the bottom bracket to seatpost.

sherbornpeddler

I need to decide to sell just the frame or the whole bike. If I sell the whole bike I'll need to buy a group and wheels.

R900

You'll spend a bunch on wheels and parts, sell the frame and swap the parts. Cannondales are great bikes, how long of a stem are you using?

sherbornpeddler

Thanks for your advice. I went from a 120 to 110 to 90 then tried a 50. The ride in terms of smooth and quick was awesome. The fit for me was always odd.

Campag4life

Going from a 120 to 50mm stem isn't going to cover the spread of one or even two frames sizes down.
The caution that I give you also being an older cyclist, is as mentioned above, the head tube is as important if not more so then the top tube because head tubes generally grow twice as much as top tube length for even successive frame size. Be careful what you wish for. Moving a size down in bike size is almost always racier and more aerodynamic "but less comfortable." Being a bit more stretched out is better then too big a drop. You would be well served to find a bike with a head tube of +180mm to get the bars up close to your saddle height for comfort with a top tube length of 56.5-58 cm.

sherbornpeddler

just got my Serotta Fierte today. I'll post a picture ASAP.