What size cassette and why?
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What size cassette and why?
I was wondering what size cassette do you guys run, and why? Currently, I have the stock 11-23 cassette on my Felt, but I trying to figure out if I want to go to a 12-25 or stay with 11-23 for my new wheelset.
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Depends totally on the ride profile and your condition.
In any case, you don't have to make a hard decision - cassettes are easy to change. I normally ride 11-23, and change to 12-27 for mountains.
In any case, you don't have to make a hard decision - cassettes are easy to change. I normally ride 11-23, and change to 12-27 for mountains.
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I use a 12-25 because of the hills around here, and also because I get more use out of the 12 than I would with an 11. Do you feel like it is a bit of a strain on climbs with your current gearing? Which cassette you use depends on your riding enviroment and fitness, no one set up will work for everyone. I would suggest you ask other riders around your area what gearing others are using, and go from there.
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On both my bikes I have 53-39 doubles, on one bike I have a 12-25, and the other a 13-26. The 25 and 26 are nice for climbing, and I can't see myself using anything lower than a 12 very often...
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12-25 because I run a compact 50-34 and i ride hills.
Don't get what we have get what works for you. If your current setup works why change. If you dont use the 11 and need more gears for the hills then change.
Don't get what we have get what works for you. If your current setup works why change. If you dont use the 11 and need more gears for the hills then change.
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Road bike - 12-27 w/50/34 compact
Touring bike - 11-32 w/48/36/26
beater - 12-26 w/50/34 compact
Cuz I am a big guy and climb like wussy
Touring bike - 11-32 w/48/36/26
beater - 12-26 w/50/34 compact
Cuz I am a big guy and climb like wussy
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Use the smallest cassette you can that give you the range you need for your hills and fitness level. A narrower range reduces the spacing between gears, making it easier to fine tune your cadence (especially when you are riding with a fast group).
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I use a 53/39 in the front.
I started with a 12-25 cassette, but during some sprints and high-speed stuff, I spun out in the 12. So, when I picked up a second set of wheels, I also got an 11-23 cassette and cassette remover.
I used my 12-25 once on a ride with a couple 20% sections up a 5-mile climb--I got to the top and realized I had been only in my 23 cog!!--no wonder it was so hard!! So I can get away with using my 11-23 on most rides (90% of them), but on hilly/mountainous rides I'll switch out to the 12-25 (and make sure I use those last 2 teeth!!)
I started with a 12-25 cassette, but during some sprints and high-speed stuff, I spun out in the 12. So, when I picked up a second set of wheels, I also got an 11-23 cassette and cassette remover.
I used my 12-25 once on a ride with a couple 20% sections up a 5-mile climb--I got to the top and realized I had been only in my 23 cog!!--no wonder it was so hard!! So I can get away with using my 11-23 on most rides (90% of them), but on hilly/mountainous rides I'll switch out to the 12-25 (and make sure I use those last 2 teeth!!)
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I use a 53\39 in front and 12\27 in the rear. Frankly when I'm climbing a steep hill I feel like I could use just one more gear. (Don't we all?).
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53/39 11/25
good combination- if there's a downhill sprint or a sprint at all the 11 comes in handy while the 25 gives a little more range than the 23.
good combination- if there's a downhill sprint or a sprint at all the 11 comes in handy while the 25 gives a little more range than the 23.
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Originally Posted by Nachoman
I use a 53\39 in front and 12\27 in the rear. Frankly when I'm climbing a steep hill I feel like I could use just one more gear. (Don't we all?).
I'm old and fat, and I never could climb.
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Guess I'll stick with 50/34 crank and 11-23 cassette. If I start puking after climbs, I'll spring for an extra 12-25 cassette.
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yup- cassettes are pretty inexpensive (as long as they're not dura ace)
give a couple a shot. they're pretty easy to change out so you can swap based on conditions.
all you need are a chain whip, wrench and cassette tool.
give a couple a shot. they're pretty easy to change out so you can swap based on conditions.
all you need are a chain whip, wrench and cassette tool.
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Originally Posted by drPheta
Guess I'll stick with 50/34 crank and 11-23 cassette. If I start puking after climbs, I'll spring for an extra 12-25 cassette.
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52/39 in the front, 12/27 in the rear...
i was thinking of switching to a compact, because climbing isn't my forte, but i've been getting better...
i was thinking of switching to a compact, because climbing isn't my forte, but i've been getting better...
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50/34, 11/23, stock on a felt f65. i hardly ever shift to the smaller chainring and i spend a lot of time in the 16-21 range because it's too hilly to go lower. there's only one hill that can convince me to get on the small ring and then i'll go to 15 or 16 and be at 19-23 at the top depending on how wussy i am that day.
huh, when i say it out loud it kinda sounds like it might be better for my chain life to get a 12-25 since there would be less cross chaining when on the big ring. does that sound like a reason to switch? or should i not be concerned about wear like that?
cheers.
huh, when i say it out loud it kinda sounds like it might be better for my chain life to get a 12-25 since there would be less cross chaining when on the big ring. does that sound like a reason to switch? or should i not be concerned about wear like that?
cheers.
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It's a good question. We ride mainly flats down here on the Texas coast, so most folks are on 11-23, but when we go to the "hill country" of San Antonio and the Austin areas, the 12-25 is perfect for me. It's mainly rolling hills, definitely not what I would call serious climbs (usually).
My question is, since we are so flat, does an 11-21 actually make sense. Just afraid that the few hills we hit would be that much harder.
When I switch back and forth from an 11-23 to a 12-25, I notice a big difference in when I have to shift and it takes some serious getting used to, but that's just my experience. Sometimes I think the 12-23 would be a fine compromise, but I usually find compromises to not work out so well...
My question is, since we are so flat, does an 11-21 actually make sense. Just afraid that the few hills we hit would be that much harder.
When I switch back and forth from an 11-23 to a 12-25, I notice a big difference in when I have to shift and it takes some serious getting used to, but that's just my experience. Sometimes I think the 12-23 would be a fine compromise, but I usually find compromises to not work out so well...
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Is there such a thing as a shimano 11-25 or 11-27 in 10 spd? If not and SRAM does, how well does a SRAM 10 spd cassette work on a Shimano drivetrain?
I've looked everywhere for a shimano 11-25 or 11-27 in 10 spd to no avail, as that would be ideal for me.
I've looked everywhere for a shimano 11-25 or 11-27 in 10 spd to no avail, as that would be ideal for me.
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Originally Posted by johnny99
Use the smallest cassette you can that give you the range you need for your hills and fitness level. A narrower range reduces the spacing between gears, making it easier to fine tune your cadence (especially when you are riding with a fast group).
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50/36 x 11-23.
It's what came on my bike.
It's flat here, so I might go 12-23 for my next cassette (for around here). My actual next cassette might be for travelling, though... and I'd get a 12-25 or 27.
It's what came on my bike.
It's flat here, so I might go 12-23 for my next cassette (for around here). My actual next cassette might be for travelling, though... and I'd get a 12-25 or 27.
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50/36 x 11-27. Earlier in my cycling career I used a 53/39 x 12-23. As I aged I switched to a 53/39 x 12-25. A few years later (now) I use the 50/36 x 12-27. Great for us aging hill climbers.