The feel of tubulars vs. clinchers
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The feel of tubulars vs. clinchers
I've never ridden tubulars. I've always ridden clinchers from 18mm - 23mm. What major differences in feel would I notice in the first few minutes of riding good tubulars?
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I'm pretty sure that they feel more expensive.
#3
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For equivalent-strength wheels, tubulars will have:
- lighter-weight, about 1/4 to 1/2 lb per wheel, you'll feel snapper acceleration in sprints
- smoother ride, tubies tend to use box-section rims, which are more compliant vertically, yet stiffer laterally for wheel-strength
- more responsive steering. The lighter weight means for the same handlebar force, you'll get a larger turn-angle and the bike will respond faster. Going from upright to full-lean takes place telepathically with tubulars. I've actually ridden off the INSIDE of a corner before when switching from my training clinchers to my race tubulars, the response was so much faster.
- faster cornering, the more supple rim/tyre combo gives more grip, especially on bumpy crit corners
- lighter-weight, about 1/4 to 1/2 lb per wheel, you'll feel snapper acceleration in sprints
- smoother ride, tubies tend to use box-section rims, which are more compliant vertically, yet stiffer laterally for wheel-strength
- more responsive steering. The lighter weight means for the same handlebar force, you'll get a larger turn-angle and the bike will respond faster. Going from upright to full-lean takes place telepathically with tubulars. I've actually ridden off the INSIDE of a corner before when switching from my training clinchers to my race tubulars, the response was so much faster.
- faster cornering, the more supple rim/tyre combo gives more grip, especially on bumpy crit corners
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Much, MUCH smoother ride. Unfortunately, I don't like carrying a spare tire, or depending on not getting 2 flats in one ride, so I ride clinchers. ALWAYS raced on tubulars, though.
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#7
Aluminium Crusader :-)
in my opinion, it's not worth it. Get some expensive clinchers with latex tubes.
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them.
You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them.
You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
Last edited by 531Aussie; 06-01-07 at 10:17 PM.
#8
Blast from the Past
Originally Posted by 531Aussie
in my opinion, it's not worth it. Get some expensive clinchers with latex tubes.
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them. You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them. You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
#9
Aluminium Crusader :-)
Originally Posted by Voodoo76
We know where you live, be very afraid.....
Last edited by 531Aussie; 06-02-07 at 08:41 PM.
#11
Aluminium Crusader :-)
Originally Posted by vpiuva
stop stop stop
please leave the rest of my bike alone
Last edited by 531Aussie; 06-02-07 at 08:40 PM.
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie
in my opinion, it's not worth it. Get some expensive clinchers with latex tubes.
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them.
You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
Which clinchers? Work your way through the top of these lists:
https://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/...her-specs.html
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires/...sting_rev4.pdf
Tubularphiles (no doubt) understate the hassle of changing one when they puncture, and if anyone 'comes clean' on what a drag they can be, the tubular mafia come down on them.
You'll love them until you get your first flat, then you'll think: "oh my gord, what the hell an I gunna do now?"
I just started riding again, and got a Campy 10-speed bike to replace my 20 year old downtube shifter race bike. It came with clinchers, but I'd like to find some budget priced tubulars for a race here & there. I've got plenty of "antique" tubulars in my basement collecting dust :-(
#13
Senior Member
Experienced another difference today. Typically you hear that tubulars will stay on the rim when flatted and you can maintain control even when cornering. I got a front-flat coming down Old San Marcos at 35-37mph today coming around a kink. I heard the PFffsst-pft-pft-pft sound as I was leaning slightly and felt the front-end let go. I immediately straightened up and slammed on the rear brakes to the point of barely squeaking. Fortunately I had about 100ft to the entrance of the next switchback and was able to seesaw the front-end to stay straight and stopped safely. I KNOW for certain I wouldn't have been able to make it around the corner at ANY speed above 1-2mph with a flat front-clincher. The rim had already scratched itself nicely on the ground and I certainly wouldn't have been able to corner.
On the other hand, I have gotten front-flats on tubulars in races in mid-corner and made it out alive, albeit with some white-knuckles.
On the other hand, I have gotten front-flats on tubulars in races in mid-corner and made it out alive, albeit with some white-knuckles.
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I've got plenty of "antique" tubulars in my basement collecting dust :-(
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John
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Last edited by FatguyRacer; 06-03-07 at 09:25 AM.
#15
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Originally Posted by FatguyRacer
I feel your pain. I think im going to deconstruct the set with the Campy record 8sp hubs/GEL280 rims and have them rebuilt with D/A 10sp hubs.
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Originally Posted by theshoemaker
I'm pretty sure that they feel more expensive.
The question of tubulars vs. clinchers is good and the very first reply we get is "look how clever I am, I can't take the time to answer with information, so I'll jump in and show everyone how clever I am."
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I guess that's one way to look at it. Someone else might call this "making a joke".
Originally Posted by rodrigaj
The question of tubulars vs. clinchers is good and the very first reply we get is "look how clever I am, I can't take the time to answer with information, so I'll jump in and show everyone how clever I am."