Shimano FC-R600 vs FC-R700?
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I've had the R600 on my 9spd for a few months and it's been great. I did need to adjust the FD down and then adjust the barrell adjusters and what-not but that's expected. But once I got it dialed in I've had no problems. I even switch out my 12-26 road wheel with my 12-25 wheel for days I put it on the trainer and I don't have to adjust anything.
So to answer your question... the R600 and R700 will fit 9spds.
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I just put an r700 on with an otherwise 105 9-speed set-up. Seems to be working fine.
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I have no idea what the difference is but I bought an R600 off Ebay and love it. I couldn't tell you if it's Hollowtech or not. The backside of the arms are hollowed out vs flat like my old 105 but the arms are chunkier. For me, the switch to the 2 piece crank and BB cups was upgrade enough with spending the $100 plus for the R700.
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I little on-topic / off-topic question: I bought my Cannondale R1000 last year. At the time, they were spec'd with either a standard Ultegra double, or an "Ultegra compact." When I went to go buy it, the compacts were not available, so I had them swap out the Ultegra double for a FSA-SLK compact crank, with an IRD front derailleur. Everything seems to work pretty well, but I keep thinking that I should replace the FSA + IRD with the R700 + Ultegra derailleur. I believe the FSA is pretty heavy, but at my skill level, it probably wouldn't make much of a difference right now. What do you think? Is it really worth moving to the R700?
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what's the typical mileage life span of a crank like these???
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No point in upgrading if you already have a similar quality level compact crank that works, unless you have a hole in your pocket. Only point in upgrading is to save weight / improve aesthetics, so unless you want to get Dura Ace / Fulcrum carbon I don't think it's worthwhile.
Mileage depends on what sort of conditions you ride in, how powerful you are, how often you clean the bike and what you regard as acceptable wear. For example, reportedly Sean Yates used to wear out a Dura Ace chain and sprocket in a day if it rained and he rode on the front all day mashing a gear at 30mph. However with normal non pro race / recreational use a modern chainset can last from 1 to 10 years depending on the above. In theory the crank should last for ever. More likely you will be bored with it before it breaks.
Mileage depends on what sort of conditions you ride in, how powerful you are, how often you clean the bike and what you regard as acceptable wear. For example, reportedly Sean Yates used to wear out a Dura Ace chain and sprocket in a day if it rained and he rode on the front all day mashing a gear at 30mph. However with normal non pro race / recreational use a modern chainset can last from 1 to 10 years depending on the above. In theory the crank should last for ever. More likely you will be bored with it before it breaks.
Last edited by mrfish; 09-04-07 at 04:39 AM.
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I'm soooo confused! If I get this, do I need to buy a bottom bracket also or does this come with it? What does BC stand for when it refers to free BC Threaded Bearing Cups?
https://probikekit.com/display.php?code=M8888
Thanks...
https://probikekit.com/display.php?code=M8888
Thanks...
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I ordered the R600 for my new build....could the BC stand for bearing cup???...bearing cups are the external bearings being used on new cranks instead of the old internal bearings in the BB...at least that's how I understand it...could be wrong though.
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that's what i was thinking, but it looked weird the way they worded it. "free BC threaded bearing cup"
Psimet2001 - when you got your crankset, what bb did they send you for free?
Psimet2001 - when you got your crankset, what bb did they send you for free?
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https://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830608905.pdf
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Last edited by Pharmr; 09-06-07 at 08:02 PM.
#37
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My FC-R600 from pbk showed up today. It includes everything shown in the link provided by Pharmr above. The installation instructions do not show any other parts needed. I'm dropping the bike off at a shop next week to do the install so we'll find out then, but I am assuming that everything is complete.
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It was not labeled as a 105, but I am almost positive it is a 105. It wasn't an Ultegra or DA for sure.
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I love the crank by the way. Works flawlessly and seems plenty stiff to me.....
#40
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#41
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FC-R600 First Ride Report
So I went on a two week work trip and figured that was a good time to have a shop install the FC-R600 on my 2003 Fuji Cross. I did a very short ride yesterday (maybe 8 miles) just to get back on the bike and make sure there were no adjustments needed. Today I did 55 and am loving the new crankset.
In doing the switch, I'm actually getting more on both the high and low end of the gearing since the Fuji came with a Ritchey Cyclocross crank with 48/38 chainrings. It will take a few more rides before my shifting patterns come more naturally. There were a few times today when I found myself in the wrong gearing since I was used to a lot of overlap with the 48/38.
As for the new crankset, it works great. The shop did a great job installing and setting it up. I did not have to tweak a thing during the ride (kudos to the mechanic at Performance Bike Reston VA). I was not on a hilly ride today, but I did take advantage of the lowering gearing here and there and it's nice to have since I suck on hills. What surprised me more was pedaling in the big ring. The whole thing felt much stiffer. At times I wondered if the crank length had changed (nope, both old and new are 170) due to a feel of having a longer lever arm to apply more torque (or something) under my foot. I also found pedaling in the upper gears to be more relaxed...felt like I was doing smoother circles with less effort than with the Ritchey.
All-in-all, a great upgrade. Well worth the $125 investment ($99 plus change for the cranks, $25 install).
A couple of pics below plus one of the old crank for a reference:


In doing the switch, I'm actually getting more on both the high and low end of the gearing since the Fuji came with a Ritchey Cyclocross crank with 48/38 chainrings. It will take a few more rides before my shifting patterns come more naturally. There were a few times today when I found myself in the wrong gearing since I was used to a lot of overlap with the 48/38.
As for the new crankset, it works great. The shop did a great job installing and setting it up. I did not have to tweak a thing during the ride (kudos to the mechanic at Performance Bike Reston VA). I was not on a hilly ride today, but I did take advantage of the lowering gearing here and there and it's nice to have since I suck on hills. What surprised me more was pedaling in the big ring. The whole thing felt much stiffer. At times I wondered if the crank length had changed (nope, both old and new are 170) due to a feel of having a longer lever arm to apply more torque (or something) under my foot. I also found pedaling in the upper gears to be more relaxed...felt like I was doing smoother circles with less effort than with the Ritchey.
All-in-all, a great upgrade. Well worth the $125 investment ($99 plus change for the cranks, $25 install).
A couple of pics below plus one of the old crank for a reference:


