Centaur vs Ultegra brakes
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Centaur vs Ultegra brakes
Which offer better braking modulation and are easier pull? My girlfriend needs some new brakes for her 80's Bianchi as the Modolo's are just too hard on her hands. I am not trying to break the bank and ~$50 + shipping is about the limit of what I'm willing to spend. I know going Campy will be more "correct" given the bike uses Suntour/Campy components, but I want the best performance to price ratio.
#3
Aluminium Crusader :-)
I reckon my buddy's 10 speed Centaur brakes crap all over my 9 and 10sp Dura-Ace. I dunno if it's because his pads are brand new and mine are worn and dirty (as are my rim surfaces), or that his Zonda wheels are brand new, or what, but.........
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Not at all, I'm sure one is quantifiably easier to modulate than the other, that is all I am asking.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by 531Aussie
I reckon my buddy's 10 speed Centaur brakes crap all over my 9 and 10sp Dura-Ace. I dunno if it's because his pads are brand new and mine are worn and dirty (as are my rim surfaces), or that his Zonda wheels are brand new, or what, but.........
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bring warm clothing!
Posts: 2,443
Bikes: Colnago Dream, Kestrel Evoke, Giant XTC Hardtail
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have both on different bikes and would recommend the Ultegras just because they weigh a little less then the Centurs. Both a great calipers
__________________
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by jimbud
I have both on different bikes and would recommend the Ultegras just because they weigh a little less then the Centurs. Both a great calipers
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Anyone want to trade a set of clinchers setup for 6/7/8spd for a set of campy tubulars? :x:
#9
Hoosier Pedaler
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,432
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've used both. No meaningful difference for me.
#10
Aluminium Crusader :-)
Originally Posted by anomaly
Which offer better braking modulation and are easier pull? My girlfriend needs some new brakes for her 80's Bianchi as the Modolo's are just too hard on her hands..
#11
Unique Vintage Steel
Originally Posted by 531Aussie
I assume they're single-pivot calipers? If so, i think you'll find that just about all of the modern, dual-pivot brakes provide a HEAP more torque, relative to effort, than any set of old, single-pivot brakes.
#12
Cathedral City, CA
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Cathedral City, CA
Posts: 1,504
Bikes: 2016 RITCHEY BreakAway (full Chorus 11), 2005 Ritchey BreakAway (full Chorus 11, STOLEN), 2001 Gary Fisher Tassajara mountain bike (sold), 2004 Giant TRC 2 road bike (sold)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by anomaly
Which offer better braking modulation and are easier pull? My girlfriend needs some new brakes for her 80's Bianchi as the Modolo's are just too hard on her hands. I am not trying to break the bank and ~$50 + shipping is about the limit of what I'm willing to spend. I know going Campy will be more "correct" given the bike uses Suntour/Campy components, but I want the best performance to price ratio.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by flatlander_48
Perhaps new KoolStop brake pads would be the thing to try first, before you replace hardware.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,187
Bikes: Trek 1500
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sweetnsourbkr
Who needs brakes anyway?
#16
Batüwü Creakcreak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
Are the new brakes compatible with the mounting on her bike? Maybe you need new brake levers, those can change the mech advantage and make it easier to modulate. This might be the cheaper option as well, and you should see if this is the case so you don't spend money for nothing.
#17
SLJ 6/8/65-5/2/07
Cuda above has the most relevant point. Modern Campy has the brake quick release built into the lever whereas Shimano has it on the caliper. If your brake levers don't have integral QR then I'd definitely say Shimano (that hurts a bit as I'm a Campy guy but things are what they are).
I use Centaur brakes on 1 bike, my wife has Chorus on hers and I retrofitted some older Records onto an 80s Italian bike (old Super Record doesn't slow you down much, never mind actually stopping). All work great but none have QRs on the brake caliper.
I use Centaur brakes on 1 bike, my wife has Chorus on hers and I retrofitted some older Records onto an 80s Italian bike (old Super Record doesn't slow you down much, never mind actually stopping). All work great but none have QRs on the brake caliper.
__________________
“Life is not one damned thing after another. Life is one damned thing over and over.”
Edna St. Vincent Millay
“Life is not one damned thing after another. Life is one damned thing over and over.”
Edna St. Vincent Millay
#18
Zippy Engineer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: IN
Posts: 1,801
Bikes: Bianchi 928, Bianchi Pista Concept 2004, Surly Steamroller, 1998 Schwinn Factory Team Homegrown, 1999 Schwinn Homegrown Factory, 2000 Schwinn Panther, Niner EMD9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by anomaly
No, she literally has trouble squeezing the brake lever while on the hoods due to relatively weak hand strength. Braking power is acceptable, but the force required is something she has trouble generating.
With regard to your original question, I couldn't tell much of a difference between my older Ultegra brakes and the Centaurs I currently have. Cuda brought up a very good point on the release mechanisms, though, as that will make life easier on you for wheel/tire changes.
#19
Ho-Jahm
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manchester, NH
Posts: 4,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Waldo
If that's the case, it sounds like new or lubed cables and housing (or possibly a little tweaking of the caliper itself) are in order. There's no way they should be that difficult to pull. That's just my virtual diagnosis without seeing the bike, but I'd check out all possibilities before shelling out for new brakes.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Los Angeles/Aveyron France
Posts: 5,308
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
i have centaur skeleton brakes and they work very well but overall stopping power has to go to the shimanos. the single pivot rear centaur caliper modulates and slows really well but it's certainly not the most powerful of brakes (obviously your front brake really does the stopping anyway, and i like the the feel of the single/dual pivot configuration but i still gotta give shimano calipers the edge in overall power)
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I have a 1983 Bianchi Campione D' Italia with Modolo Pro's with Modolo Non-sinterized pads and like most brakes of the era they are more like speed modulators than brakes. However, before you buy new calipers and levers try replacing the pads with Kool Stop pads that are suitable for Her rims they will make a huge difference. If the brake cables are not teflon lined then replace them with new cables or lubricate them with graphite. Lastly, if you adjust the brakes so that there is a little more play than normal it might be easier for her to get a firmer pull on the lever. I don't think that there is a cam in the lever but it seems the leverage is better when there is longer pull before contact.
vjp
vjp
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by Waldo
If that's the case, it sounds like new or lubed cables and housing (or possibly a little tweaking of the caliper itself) are in order. There's no way they should be that difficult to pull. That's just my virtual diagnosis without seeing the bike, but I'd check out all possibilities before shelling out for new brakes.
With regard to your original question, I couldn't tell much of a difference between my older Ultegra brakes and the Centaurs I currently have. Cuda brought up a very good point on the release mechanisms, though, as that will make life easier on you for wheel/tire changes.
With regard to your original question, I couldn't tell much of a difference between my older Ultegra brakes and the Centaurs I currently have. Cuda brought up a very good point on the release mechanisms, though, as that will make life easier on you for wheel/tire changes.